K" v ^?» 



.^' 



A 










.^^ 



^ 



-.^ 





o > 






.4v^ 



A 



<^. 




.<^ 



^ * O N O - 0,> 



'^_ 





^ 









.^^ 




^^.c.'^ 

vP b 




> 



,^ 



o N e 












^^ 



^^ v"J> •'^(Sm^^^J' -^.ur^ ^,^'^^M?^'^ ^ <"^' 




4 o 




.<J^' 



A 



.^'\ 







<G^ %3 








«• \J^ <'^ 







<". 




,v 



.^^ 







* <iJ' %^ o^ 








r'v 




4 o 




^ -^^0^ 



C 




4 O 










!* . >r^' 



V* 








.> n r* o ♦^ .<A' L < /t <<> />V n w o *^- 









L^v .^". <^^ 






















4 o 







<" 



^<^^ 
^ 



INCIDENTS OF 
EUROPEAN TRAVEL 





l^1*v 



Souvenir Edition 



INCIDENTS 



OF 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 



Quorum Pars Magna Fui. 



By GREGORY DOYLE, M. D., LL. D. 

Syracuse, N. Y. 
1910 



1- 






\ 



Copyright, 1910 
By Gregory Doyle 



All Rights Reserved 



Printers 
The Du Bois Press, Newark, New York 



©CU265287 




MRS. GREGORY DOYLE (nee URANIA C. MOREL) 
Who made an extensive tour of Europe with the Author 



DEDICATION 

TO MY LOVING AND LOYAL 

WIFE 

WHO HAS BEEN MY FAITHFUL COMPANION 

ON THE JOURNEY OF LIFE 

FOR MORE THAN FORTY YEARS 

THIS BOOK IS 

MOST AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED 





GREGORY JAMES DOYLE 

Only son of Gregory and Urania C. Doyle, whose early death left a lasting 
gloom in the home of his disconsolate parents 



PREFACE 

THE first of my five trips to Europe was made in 
1882. Mr. S. Gurney Lapham, Dean of the Edi- 
torial Fraternity of Syracuse, who was at that 
time editor of the Courier, asked me to contribute to his 
paper during my travels, and at the same time suggested 
that I give only my personal impressions of places seen 
and persons met. I did so and, on my return home, 
found my letters had given so much satisfaction that I 
fully appreciated the practical foresight of n^y dis- 
tinguished friend. 

Sherlock Holmes said: "People do not always notice 
what they see." Reflecting on that statement I have 
since tried, when writing for entertainment, to make note 
of everything worth seeing and to describe every incident 
worth hearing about. Many books of travel are so 
highly flavored with the tincture of well worn guide 
books that they are seldom accused of much originality. 
I have followed no set itinerary or chronological order in 
my account of travels but have given my experiences as 
they came to mind. 

Many thousands of people have already gone to Europe 
and many are yet to go. For the former this book may 
revive pleasant recollections of places visited; the latter 
may possibly profit from experiences herein related. 

While traveling I secured several hundred photo- 
graphic views with my trusty camera and have used some 

vii 



of them to illustrate this work. Addresses, essays, etc., 
heretofore published in the press, are reproduced at the 
request of friends who wish to preserve them in more 
permanent form. 

Syracuse, N. Y., March 28, 1910. 
307 West Genesee street. 



vin 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER I 

Outward Bound 1-3 

CHAPTER II 

Italy 4-68 

Naples 4 

A Collection of Antiques 7 

A Visit to Capri 8 

The Blue Grotto 10 

The Ruins of Pompeii 12 

Tivoli 13 

In the Gorge of the Anio 14 

Vincenza 18 

A Landslide 19 

A Midnight Peril 20 

Verona 22 

St. Mark's, Gem of the Adriatic ... 24 

St. Mark's, Venice 26 

Fratres Misericordiae 28 

Rome 29 

The Great Basilica 30 

Christ in the Temple 30 

A Sojourn on the Roof of St. Peter's . 31 

The Vatican 32 

The Ancient Forum 33 

The Mamertine 34 

Santa Scala 35 

ix 



The Catacombs of St. Calista .... 36 

The Capuchin Catacombs 37 

The Church of St. Paul 38 

The Treasury of St. Paul's ..... 40 

The Chapel of the Three Fountains . , 41 

The Church of the Twelve Apostles . 41 

From St. Peter's Dome 42 

A Modern Plebeian 44 

The Mystic City 45 

The Carnival of Venice 48 

The First Pawn Shop 50 

Genoa 51 

Pisa 54 

The Inferno 54 

Coronation of Pius X 56 

The Campo Santo of Genoa 61 

Masterpiece of Art 62 

Sneering Jays 65 

Head of John the Baptist 65 

A Sudden Transformation .... 67 
CHAPTER HI 

Paris 69-90 

Up in a Balloon 72 

Tomb of Napoleon 73 

The Pantheon . 73 

A Wonderful Yankee 74 

Notre Dame • . 76 

The Madelein \ 76 

From a Drop of Oil to a Tragedy . . 78 

Tipped the Wrong Man 82 

The Fall of the Bastile 83 

On the Eiffel Tower 84 

In the Bois de Bolougne 86 

A Bull Fight in Paris 88 



X 



CHAPTER IV 

Story Telling on Board Ship 91-147 

The Story of the Stranger 93 

A Severe Initiation 96 

Adjourned for Dinner 99 

A Lively Dining Room 100 

A Howling Swell 100 

An Iceberg 101 

A Theological Surprise 103 

A Rough Reception 105 

A Disastrous Tumble 106 

A Cruel Exhibition 107 

"One of the Finest" 108 

In the Role of an Artist 109 

The Draft Riots HI 

An Auspicious Beginning 115 

An Unexpected Rebuff 116 

A Man from Jayville 119 

A Midnight Stroll on Deck 122 

The Rising Moon 123 

A Plagiarizing Ingrate 124 

A Base Ball Challenge 131 

A Time Serving Hypocrite .... 132 

Hideous Ingratitude 134 

A Trio of Apt Aphorisms 136 

An Unwlecome "Compagnon de Voyage" 136 

Old Flan, The Handy Man .... 143 

A Penalty of Patriotism 146 

CHAPTER V 
Mutual Appreciation 148-152 

CHAPTER VI 

Germany 153-169 

A Serio-Comic Incident 153 

xi 



Mayence 155 

Down the Rhine 157 

The Lorelei 159 

Cologne 161 

Nuremberg 165 

Chamber of Torture 166 

An Antique Fire Company 168 

CHAPTER VII 

Switzerland 170-183 

Riding 'Through the Alps 172 

Tomb of St. Charles Borromeo . . . 173 

The Last Supper 176 

Beautiful Lucerne 177 

Fin and Feather Battle 180 

An Incident at the Waage 181 

CHAPTER VIII 

Ireland 184-243 

The Tipping Nuisance 186 

Love of Country 188 

"Irish Philosophers" 190 

"Artistic Culture" 191 

Irishmen in History ....... 192 

Irishmen Rule ......... 201 

A Thrilling Ride 204 

Mistaken for Orangemen 205 

Belfast 208 

The Blarney Stone 211 

Their "Lordships" 212 

A Dublin Cabby 213 

Valley of the Seven Churches ... 213 

The Meeting of the Waters .... 217 

zii 



Blarney Castle 218 

Waterford 222 

Shandon 224 

The Lakes of Killarney 226 

A Tumble Down the Mountain Side . 229 

Innisfallen 230 

Gougane Barra 232 

Trials of a Tourist 234 

Vexation on Land, Storm at Sea . . . 234 

A Rambling Reviler 241 

CHAPTER IX 
Scotland 244-248 

CHAPTER X 

London . 249-254 

Tower of London 249 

The British Museum 252 

CHAPTER XI 

Addenda 255 

Address at Niagara, Past, Present, 

Future 255 

Reminders of Niagara 267 

A Thrilling Reminiscence 267 

Falling Rocks of Niagara 269 

Sons of Old Niagara 270 

Address at Golden Jubilee of "Old 

Niagara" 271 

"The Mistake of the Catholics" ... 276 

Some Popular Errors Regarding Injuries 280 

Too Much Cutting and Slashing . . . 284 

A Whistling Corpse 286 

Dr. James J. Moriarty 290 

xiii 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



THE AUTHOR Frontispiece 

MRS. GREGORY DOYLE v 

GREGORY JAMES DOYLE tH 

THE ISLAND OF CAPRI Facing p. 8 

RUINS OF POMPEII WITH MOUNT VESUVIUS 

IN THE DISTANCE " 12 

RUINS OF THE TEMPLE OF ISIS " 16' 

THE BRIDGE OF CASTEL VECCHIO ON THE 

ADIGE, VERONA " 20 

ST. MARK'S CHURCH IN VENICE ..... " 24 

ST. PETER'S AND THE VATICAN ..... " 32 

TOWER AND BRIDGE OF ST. ANGELO ... " 40 

ARCH OP CONSTANTINE NEAR THE COLOS- 
SEUM IN ROME " 48 

THE REMAINS OF THE COLOSSEUM AT ROME " 56 

RUINS OF THE ROMAN FORUM " 64 

MICHAEL ANGELO'S FAMOUS STATUE OF MOSES " 72 

THE CITY OF ROME " 80 

A VIEW IN VENICE " 88 

BRIDGE OF SIGHS IN VENICE " 96 

FEEDING THE DOVES IN ST. MARK'S SQUARE, 

VENICE " 100 

ANCIENT CHANDELIER IN THE CATHEDRAL AT 

PISA " 104 

HOME OF CHRISTOPHER COLUMBUS .... " 108 

CATHEDRAL AT PISA AND THE LEANING TOWER " 112 

THE BAPTISTRY AT PISA " 116 

XV 



v^ 



^ 



THE CAPUCHIN CATACOMBS IN ROME . . . 
THE CHURCH OF SANTA MARIA BELLA SALUTE 
TOMBS UNDER THE COLLONADE IN THE CAMPO 

SANTO 

A MARBLE TOMB IN CAMPO SANTO .... 

THE OLDEST CHURCH EDIFICE IN ROME . . 

BRIDGE AND TOWER OF ST. ANGELO WITH ST. 
PETER'S AND THE TIBER 

PARIS AS PHOTOGRAPHED FROM A BALLOON 
BY THE AUTHOR 

PANTHEON AT PARIS AND SHRINE OF ST. GEN- 
EVIEVE 

A FAMILY TOMB IN CAMPO SANTO. GENOA 

NOTRE DAME AND HOTEL DIEU, PARIS . . 

THE GREAT STATUE OF THE REPUBLIC AT 
PARIS 

CASTLE GREGORY 

CHAPEL BRIDGE AND THE ANCIENT LIGHT- 
HOUSE AT LUCERN 

THE GREAT LION OF LUCERN 

GLENDALOUGH. VALLEY OF THE SEVEN 
CHURCHES 

MEETING OF THE WATERS IN THE VALE OF 
AVOCA, IRELAND 

"OLD NIAGARA" . . 

NIAGARA FALLS 

EMIGRANTS ON STEERAGE DECK PLAYING 
CARDS 



/ 



Facing p. 120 
124' 



128 

132 



J 



136 
140' 

V 

144 

148 

152' 

156 

160 
168 

176 
184 

208 

216 
256 
264 

280 



XVI 



OUTWARD BOUND 

WE SAILED from New York July 18, 1903, on 
the steamship Hohenzollern, bound for Nap- 
les, Italy, and, after a pleasant but unevent- 
ful trip across the Atlantic, reached Gibraltar at 4 a. m., 
July 27. We were here unexpectedly entertained by the 
booming of cannon from a British fleet of fifty-two gun- 
boats, which lay anchored near the base of the great 
Rock. The gunners were having their morning drill. 
They made such an uproar, it appeared to us like genuine 
war. As our vessel was to remain several hours to coal 
up, we took advantage of the delay and went over in a 
small steamer to Gibraltar. This famous old town, with 
its irregular streets, military barracks, antique dwellings, 
grim batteries of defence and heterogeneous population 
of some 20,000 people, presents an unusual and interest- 
ing spectacle to the tourist. British officers and soldiers, 
Turks, Jews, Mohammedans and in fact representatives 
from nearly all parts of the world are to be met in the 
streets and hotels. I found it a very interesting place in 
which to spend a few hours but would not wish to remain 
there long, as it was so very hot and oppressive. Even the 
leaves of the trees were covered with a thick coating of 
dust, as it had not rained for several weeks. I noticed 
that many of the lawns and gardens were ornamented 



2 INCIDENTS OF 

with great growths of cacti and oleanders, some of the 
latter attaining a height of fifty feet or more. They were 
covered with a profusion of luxuriant pink blossoms. 
Pepper trees, the kind that furnish us with the ordinary 
black pepper, are used for shade — a rather paradoxical 
idea to have such heat producers used as coolers. 

The modes of transportation are very curious and 
primitive. Huge two-wheeled carts are drawn by weary 
mules. Small burros, with loads on their backs many 
times the size of their little bodies, enhance the antiquity 
of the scene. Looking across from the town we could 
plainly see the northern coast of Africa which at this 
point is but a few miles distant. 

We, of course, visited the famous Rock, honeycombed 
throughout with cavernous tunnels, which practically make 
it one vast shell. Huge cannon pierce its sides in every 
direction so that it might be compared with a mammoth 
porcupine, as its surface fairly bristles with death-dealing 
guns. As we wearily trudged along through those wind- 
ing ways that lead to the summit, we recalled the famous 
labyrinth of Crete and fully realized the impregnable con- 
dition of the great Rock of Gibraltar. 

Our ship having been replenished with coal we re- 
sumed our journey up the Mediterranean and were 
treated, that very evening, to the gorgeous spectacle of 
a sunset on its dark blue waters that thrilled all beholders. 
Sky and ocean were lit up in a blaze of glory; the sun, 
as it dipped down to the sea, resembled a mammoth 
ball of burnished gold resting on purple clouds. 
The heavens around it were brightened with a halo of 
crimson that melted away in the heavenly vault above, 
while the rippling waves were tipped with the hues of 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 3 

dancing rainbows; a spectacle fit for the Gods of 
Olympus. 

The first Sunday morning after leaving Gibraltar we 
were gently aroused from our slumbers by melodious 
warnings that seemed to come from a deep toned organ 
of some grand old cathedral. Later on we were told it 
was the ship's band that afforded the agreeable surprise. 
This same band frequently entertained us during the 
voyage with choice music which whiled away many a 
pleasant hour and rendered our "home on the rolling 
deep" very agreeable. 

The northern shores of Sardinia, which we passed 
July 29, are a great contrast to the beautiful Azores. 
Their barrenness reminded me of the cheerless hills of 
New Hampshire on a weird November day. It seemed 
a fit country for the many brigands that infest it. We 
had no desire to land, as we didn't wish to risk our lives 
or hand over our hard earned shekels for a possible 
ransom. 



II 
ITALY 

WE ENTERED the Bay of Naples on a pleasant 
July morning and as we surveyed the scene 
before us we fully realized that all said or 
sung in praise of this beautiful bay was well merited. 
Someone, in his enthusiasm, has said, "See Naples and 
die." Well, we did not at that time feel exactly like 
"shuffling off this mortal coil." On the contrary we just 
then began to realize that life was really worth living, 
when Nature had been so generous in giving us such de- 
lightful surroundings as we were then and there enjoying. 
As our good ship Hohenzollern steamed up the bay 
we were surrounded by the natives in small boats or 
skiffs trying to sell fruits, souvenirs, curios, etc. They 
would come alongside and hand up to us, on long poles, 
their merchandise that we might patronize them. The 
novelty of their manner of doing business led many of 
the passengers to make purchases. 

NAPLES 

Naples is a grand old city. It is built like a crescent 
around the beautiful bay and might be likened to a mam- 
moth amphitheatre, as it rises in gentle slopes back from 
the water. The churches and houses are handsome and 
substantial. It would be an ideal city were it not for the 
execrable custom of hanging dirty garments out of the 
windows and on lines across the street. It is a pitiable 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 5 

sight to behold magnificent rows of houses thus disfig- 
ured by loaded clothes lines and ragged garments. 

Right here is, I think, the proper place to expatiate a 
little on some Italians' mode of living and their habits. In 
Southern Italy many of the inhabitants do not seem to 
have any affection for cleanliness. In fact they really 
have a love for the contrary. In Naples filth is seen on 
every side and it would appear that the lower classes 
fairly delight in every opportunity to brazenly display 
their defiance of hygiene. Walking along the streets you 
will often be obliged to step off into the gutter to avoid 
stumbling over lazy loafers who lie stretched at full length 
across the walks. They are filthy in their dress and 
habits and it is a wonder they have any sort of health. 
In spite of all this they not only live but multiply until 
the country fairly swarms with them. 

The farther you go south the more slovenly they seem 
to be, until you reach Calabria and Sicily, where condi- 
tions are worse. Of course I am now speaking of the 
ignorant and vicious ; that same class which forms a large 
percentage of immigrants who are filling up this country 
with undesirable citizens. They are the same people that 
"leave their country for their country's good'* and come 
to America to inflict themselves on a law abiding and in- 
dustrious community. 

One would think that people who leave their homes 
for the ostensible purpose of bettering their condition 
would behave themselves when they reach a land of 
plenty and prosperity. Many are no sooner landed, how- 
ever, than they set about breeding disorder and looking 
for trouble. I think that if the Italian government would 
establish an educational bureau in America to teach these 



6 INCIDENTS OF 

raw recruits a few salutary lessons, immensely more 
good would be accomplished than is now being done by 
sending emissaries to darkest Africa or the wilds of 
other distant regions. 

In the above remarks, I, of course, refer only to the 
lowest stratum of the Italian proletariat. In Italy I met 
people of the highest culture. It seems that the farther 
north you go, the more intelligent the inhabitants become. 
In Rome, 160 miles north of Naples, as everybody knows, 
the intelligence, the learning and the fame of centuries 
abide. The Rome of to-day possesses all the refinements 
and progress of the twentieth century. I never met a more 
enlightened and brilliant people than I did in the Eternal 
City. When you get up as far as Florence, Genoa, Ven- 
ice or Milan you will notice that the people are larger, 
stronger and more energetic than those in the southern 
cities. That condition is no doubt due to better environ- 
ment and atmosphere, it being cooler and more conducive 
to muscular development and a consequent growth of 
brain matter. The southern regions are warm and 
muggy and no doubt largely contribute to lethargic con- 
ditions and consequent shiftlessness of a great portion 
of the inhabitants. 

Well, to return to Naples. I must say it is one of the 
most interesting cities in all Europe, even if some of its 
inhabitants are lazy and improvident. Its churches, muse- 
ums and theatres are very elaborate. Among its popula- 
tion are the most learned and aristocratic families in all 
Italy. Its hospitals are among the best in the world and 
its hotels are of the highest order and afford every modern 
convenience. We stopped at the Hotel Vesuve which 
stands on high ground fronting the great bay. From its 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 7 

balcony we could plainly see dense clouds of smoke and 
murky vapor pouring forth from the great volcano 
across the water. At night the eruptions were lit up 
with mammoth tongues of fire that added a dreadful 
grandeur to the thunderous pyrotechnics of the restless 
mountain. 

We visited the San Carlo Opera House, one of the 
largest in the world. A real Italian opera was being 
given at the time. Most of it we could not understand 
to our satisfaction, but the elegant costumes and finished 
technique supplied the deficiency. 

The Aquarium, said to be the most elaborate in the 
world, contains a vast variety of the denizens of the deep. 
We saw there an octopus or devil fish, said to be the larg- 
est one in captivity. This grotesque conglomeration of 
animal life is very properly named, as his forbidding 
appearance strongly suggests all that is Satanic. His 
fierce, rapid and ugly gyrations would lead one to believe 
that he was constantly seeking some unfortunate whom 
he might devour. 

The great cathedral or Duomo of St. Januarius is a 
very ancient and elaborate structure. It contains many 
relics, among which is a vial of the blood of its patron 
saint. It is said to liquify on every anniversary of his 
martyrdom. The sacristan showed us four immense can- 
delabra which, he said, were taken from the Temple at 
Jerusalem. 

A COLLECTION OF ANTIQUES 

The musuem at Naples contains the most valuable col- 
lection of antiquities in the world except that of the 
Vatican. Here are to be seen statuary, marbles, ancient 



8 INCIDENTS OF 

architectural designs and other works of art, dating 
away back to the early ages — long before the Christian 
era. I was agreeably surprised to come across some 
antique figures which really seemed like old familiar 
friends, as I had so often seen them described and illus- 
trated in the classical works that delighted my younger 
days at Old Niagara. I felt almost like going up to 
shake hands with them and perhaps would have done so 
were it not that they seemed so cold-hearted and indif- 
ferent. 

There is a room in one corner of this museum which 
contains many relics from the ruins of Pompeii that are 
unfit to be seen by anyone except archaeologists or med- 
ical men who may have an honest motive in studying the 
history of the past and the possibilities of human degrada- 
tion. No wonder that Pompeii was suddenly covered up 
and hidden under mountains of hot ashes and burning 
cinders ! 

A VI^IT TO CAPRI 

While at Naples our party, having resolved to visit the 
famous Blue Grotto on the Island of Capri, chartered 
a small steamer which stood ready at the dock. Waiting 
for some belated members we were entertained by an 
exhibition of fancy swimming and deep sea diving by 
amphibious natives. Their antics in the water were inter- 
esting and even wonderful ; some would beckon the pas- 
sengers to throw coins into the sea which they dove for 
and invariably caught in their mouths. The water was 
so clear that we could see the coins glisten as they rapidly 
went zigzagging toward the bottom. The divers skill- 
fully followed their uncertain course, and soon triumph- 





K 


c 


m 


3 




Pu 


h-l 


n> 


r/1 




r 


rr 


> 


rn' 


:^ 


^. 


W 


Ul 




^ 


o 


13' 

n 


►^ 


Hh 


n 


3 
o 

c 


> 


I/) 


h- 1 


in 


t— 1 


c' 


^ 


rt> 


H 


O 


ffi 


o 


W 


r-f- 




O 


td 




> 




H^, 


Uj 




0) 
0) 


O 


T1 


^ 


»5 

CfQ 


^ 


n> 


> 


,_. 


^ 


o 


r 




m 




C/2 




EUROPEAN TRAVEL 9 

antly returned with the money between their grinning 
teeth. Sometimes these men would dive beneath the 
steamer and come up on the opposite side, a feat that 
required much skill and endurance. 

Having enjoyed this novel exhibition for an hour or 
more we set sail for the Island of Capri. On board was 
a jolly lot of tourists who soon resolved themselves into 
a large family of pleasure seekers. Many volunteered a 
description of this famous grotto while others expressed 
anxiety to behold the wonderful place of which they had 
so often heard. 

Before reaching Capri we stopped at Sorrento, a beau- 
tiful old town on the coast. As we approached its harbor 
I noticed a variety of colors in the water near the shore, 
caused by reflections from the bottom which was covered 
with particolored stones and rocks. The effect was most 
beautiful and impressive. Orange, green, purple and red 
would, in turn, become clearly visible as the boat moved 
slowly along. 

Sorrento is now but the remains of an ancient city 
which is even older than Rome or Naples. It contains 
many interesting ruins, among which are those of a tem- 
ple to Neptune. It is famous as being the birthplace of 
Tasso whose life was one of sorrow, disappointments 
and triumphs. 

As we sat on the veranda of the Grand Hotel, taking 
a midday lunch, we were entertained with music by wan- 
dering minstrels dressed in fanciful costumes that might 
have been brought from fairyland. In front of us, and 
below our table, was a large vineyard of ripening fruit. 
The vines were loaded with huge bunches of luscious 
grapes of many varieties and colors. Here and there. 



10 INCIDENTS OF 

between the trellises, could be seen young orange trees 
filled with fruit in all stages of growth, the green afford- 
ing a beautiful contrast to the ripened oranges on the 
same tree. This, added to the white blossoms and the 
glossy leaves, made a combination of colors that must be 
seen to be appreciated. 

THE BLUE GROTTO 

Capri, in the Bay of Naples, looks from a distance like 
a huge, craggy monument rising out of the sea. Its 
bold outlines, declivities and rugged sides strike the be- 
holder with an awe akin to reverence. It appears to look 
down on the beholder with a frown of ancient dignity 
that makes one feel his physical inferiority. In presence 
of this great sentinel of the sea I felt almost timid. 

Here were fought many battles in ancient times and 
hundreds of the vanquished were hurled headlong into 
the sea from the very rocks we were walking upon. 

Tiberius, the profligate Roman emperor who ruled the 
destinies of the empire at the time of Christ's sojourn on 
earth, made Capri his summer home. Here he reveled 
in all the dissipations known to a pampered potentate. I 
never had any respect for this emperor as I always im- 
agined he could have prevented the crucifixion of our 
Saviour if he so desired. I suppose, however, in the 
midst of his pleasures and revelries he never heeded or 
gave a serious thought to the supreme tragedy of Jerusa- 
lem. 

The greatest attraction of this island is the wonderful 
Blue Grotto. As the passengers left the steamer they 
were placed in little boats which were to take them to the 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 11 

interior. It was necessary that the skiffs should be quite 
low, as the opening was very small and could be entered 
only when the tide was out. In our skiff were two gen- 
tlemen and a lady besides the boatman. We were all 
told to lie down on our backs as we floated in, for other- 
wise we might be injured by striking against the over- 
head rocks. The lady, who was young and giddy, did 
not pay much attention to the boatman's warning and re- 
mained sitting bolt upright until she received a blow from 
overhead which cut an ugly gash in her forehead and 
violently knocked her over backward where she lay in a 
swoon for some time. 

The boat was drawn in by an unusual process. A 
long overhead chain strung along the underside of the 
arch was fastened at both ends. The boatman, by grasp- 
ing this while lying on his back, was enabled to draw his 
tiny craft to the interior. As soon as we arrived within 
the grotto I was obliged to attend the lady's injuries 
which were quite serious and took some time. This un- 
fortunate accident somewhat marred the pleasures of the 
day. 

Once inside we found ourselves sailing about in a large 
cavern whose waters were a brilliant blue and cast glim- 
mering reflections of the same bright color on the rocky 
roof above. For our entertainment young boys swam 
about in the cerulean waters which gave their little bodies 
the appearance of being covered with polished silver. 
When we placed our hands in the water the same 
wondrous phenomenon appeared. 

The cavern within was as bright as day although no 
light was let in except through the small opening by 
which we entered. I can account for this unusual state 



12 INCIDENTS OF 

of things only from the fact that the waters were highly 
phosphorescent. 

History hints that many secret passages led from the 
palace of Tiberius above to this mysterious cave and that 
it was often used as a place of refuge for royalty in times 
of danger. 

We ascended to the top of the island by a long and 
tortuous road where we visited an ancient town which 
now seems but the ruins of a former city of some im- 
portance. Men, women and children rushed out into the 
streets to greet us, the latter entertaining us with a wild 
sort of dance or frenzy, known as the tarantella or 
spider waltz. It is so called from the imitation of spasms 
or convulsions occasioned by the bite of the venomous 
tarantula. It was very effectively carried out by the 
natives who were well versed in their hideous imitations 
of the victims of this poisonous insect. 

THE RUINS OF POMPEII 

Near the base of Mount Vesuvius once stood Pompeii 
a beautiful city. It was full of life and gaiety. Its in- 
habitants were prosperous and happy until a calamity be- 
fell them that has never before or since been equaled in 
the history of any time or place. 

One summer morning in the year 79 A. D. the sky be- 
came suddenly darkened and the light of the sun was 
blotted out as if by a fuliginous pall that covered the 
earth. Ominous thunders and fiery eruptions from the 
great volcano added terror to confusion. Soon all were 
overwhelmed with showers of hot cinders and burning 
ashes which so suddenly and completely covered the city 



W j_ 




EUROPEAN TRAVEL 13 

and its inhabitants that even the site of Pompeii was lost 
and forgotten for ages. 

In the 17th century the ruins of this unfortunate city 
were accidentally discovered by laborers who were dig- 
ging in a vineyard. Not until the beginning of the 19th 
century were any exploratory excavations made. Sys- 
tematic examinations proved this locality to be the site of 
an ancient and long forgotten city. 

To see the destruction wrought in so short a time by 
the great volcano, impressively fills one with the most 
profound respect for the powers of old Mother Nature 
and a good deal of uncertainty as to the permanency of 
all things human. We saw many well preserved 
bodies that were recovered from the ruins. Their con- 
torted shapes would indicate that death came to them in 
an unexpected and painful manner. Loaves of bread 
taken from the ancient ovens were black, but as perfect in 
shape as when placed there many centuries ago. 

In the neighborhood of Pompeii and around the base 
of Vesuvius are many luxuriant groves of figs, oranges, 
lemons, olives and chestnuts. Oleanders there grow to an 
enormous size. Pepper trees are very com^non, being 
largely grown for their foliage. The bathing beaches are 
covered with a black sand, no doubt cast there by former 
eruptions of the volcano. 

TIVOLI 

Qur visit to Tivoli, seventeen miles northeast of Rome, 
was full of interest, as there we beheld the site of a city 
that was once the rival of Rome in grandeur and enter- 
prise; in fact it was founded many centuries before the 



14 INCIDENTS OF 

existence of Rome. It is situated on an eminence 830 
feet above the sea. The river Anio here falls over a 
ledge of rock into an abyss several hundred feet below. 
It reminded me much of Niagara with its 

Softened thunders 

Of watery wonders 

Like sacred music magnified. 

Father Joseph, rector of the church of the XII Apostles 
in Rome, who was with us, suggested that we descend to 
the foot of the fall in the gorge the Anio had made by 
the constant wear of the waters during untold centuries. 
With cautious steps and the friendly assistance of trees 
and shrubs which prevented a too rapid glide, we walked, 
slid and stumbled downward until the bottom was 
reached. We here beheld the seething abyss into which 
the raging Anio plunged, and stood in profound awe and 
admiration of the mighty cataract as it came from above, 
seemingly out of a great opening in the clouds. 

Our guide showed us the home of Horace, the great 
Latin poet of classical times. It is situated on a hillside 
just out of Tivoli. Looking at the home that once pro- 
tected the gifted scholar, I became somewhat sentimental 
and wondered if one of his famous verses would apply 
to me, during my stay in the neighborhood. I will quote 
it: 

"Quocunque rapit tempestas deferor hospes." 
Wherever the winds carry me I am a guest. 

IN THE GORGE OF THE ANIO 

After wandering along the mossy slopes and among 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 15 

the fallen rocks that alternately adorn the shores of the 
lower Anio, we resolved to return to the upper regions. 
When we fully realized the stupendous effort required to 
retrace our steps, we were nearly discouraged with the 
task before us. I simply remained in statu quo for a 
time and meditated on the famous lines of Virgil, when 
he said: 

"Facilis decensus Averno, sed revocare 
gradum: hoc opus, hie labor est." 

The descent to Avernus is easy, but to return, 

This is the work, this is the labor. 

In looking about for ways and means to make our 
return journey, it dawned on me that if it were difficult 
for the male portion of the party to climb the rugged 
heights, it would simply be impossible for Mrs. Doyle to 
accomplish the Herculanean task. While in a quandary 
as to the proper procedure, we were approached by two 
stalwart natives carrying a sedan chair. They offered 
to transport the lady to the top. I was so pleased to 
obtain their services that I immediately engaged them 
and told them they might exercise their muscles by carry- 
ing her to the top of the gorge as quickly as they could. 
They set about their task with a vim that was truly en- 
couraging, but their enthusiasm cooled off considerably 
before they had gone many yards, as Mrs. Doyle is by no 
means a light weight, being able to send the indicator of 
the scales to a very respectable figure. We trudged 
along ahead, aiding our upward movements by holding 
on to friendly branches that greatly assisted us. We 
would frequently stop and look back to see how the chair 



16 INCIDENTS OF 

carriers were getting on. The patient fellows were 
laboriously tugging away with their generous burden 
which caused them to take frequent rests. They finally 
reached the top and gladly set down their sedan, while 
they mopped the perspiration from their swarthy brows 
and puffed like a pair of exhausted athletes. I really 
pitied them and asked the price of their labor. They 
humbly held out their hands, saying that twenty soldi (a 
few cents) was their fee. I added a gratuity which I 
thought they had richly earned. 

Here are the famous sulphur baths, patronized by the 
elite of Rome and the surrounding country. The water 
from the springs, which are constantly bubbling up like 
a boiling cauldron is of a creamy-white color and looks 
like the richest milk from a first-class dairy. The edges 
of the spring and the surrounding footpaths are con- 
stantly coated with a thick layer of the purest sulphur, 
which lends a golden enchantment to the dancing waters 
of the health giving springs. We remained for some 
time enjoying the innocent antics of the Roman youth 
while disporting themselves in the lacteal-hued baths of 
Tivoli. 

Tivoli, which was the summer home of Hadrian, has a 
fascination for the tourist and antiquarian that is seldom 
surpassed. As we leisurely rambled through the ruined 
castles and abandoned gardens, we could not but reflect 
on the grandeur that existed there in the days of long 
ago ; and think of the gay throngs that once peopled those 
silent ruins. We thought of the glory that fadeth away. 
Statuary and architectural ornaments that formerly em- 
bellished this ancient city are now scattered throughout 
the many museums of Europe. 



> 

d 

01? 
O "^ 

03 !~^ 



p- JaS 






CO CO 

C ft 

6 c 

to S' 

fj tn 

o ? 

< :: 

2 n 






r 

CO 

I— I 
I— I 



(T) 3 ^ 

u ~ I— I 

o m ^ 

CO C ►-• 



to „. 

_ 3 




^•tW^' 



)^'-\ 





EUROPEAN TRAVEL 17 
PADUA 

This home of a great university, which was at its zenith 
in the thirteenth century, is situated on the river Bacchig- 
Hone in the province of Venetia. 

Here the famous Galileo and Tasso taught and St. 
Anthony preached his soul stirring sermons. It must 
have been a great city in ancient times, for history tells 
us it raised an army of 200,000 men to fight the Romans 
at Cann^. The great Livy was born in its suburbs. 
Padua was the first city in which clinical medicine was 
taught. In the sixteenth century De Monte gave bed- 
side lectures in the hospital of St. Francis. Post-mortem 
examinations, to ascertain the cause of death, were also 
first held in this ancient and progressive city, and here 
the study of anatomy had its inception. 

On my arrival the streets were so flooded that it was 
with difficulty I visited the many shrines and ancient 
palaces for which the city is noted. Not having fully 
recovered from an attack of Roman fever, the flood and 
damp atmosphere augmented the unwelcome chills that 
were rapidly chasing up and down my spinal column. 
Finding no one to converse with in good old Syracuse 
vernacular I felt pretty lonesome, and the surrounding 
atmosphere had a decidedly cerulean tint; about three 
shades darker than desirable. After due reflection I 
resolved, then and there, to return home as soon as pos- 
sible. Trains were delayed, in fact they had ceased run- 
ning on account of the recent floods, and I was in a 
genuine, double jointed dilemma. Not feeling in the 
best of moods, I strolled around to the church of St. 
Anthony and during the course of my meditations, 



18 INCIDENTS OF 

respectfully and reverentially promised the time-honored 
old saint that if he would assist me, as speedily as possi- 
ble, to get out of his town I would not trouble him again 
for many a long day. 

As all trains were abandoned I was obliged to charter 
a barouche or voiture to take me to Vincenza, about 
twenty-five miles distant. The price demanded for the 
antiquated rig was far beyond the value of the whole 
concern. Paying in advance for the trip, I supposed I 
was sole owner, for the time being at least. Half way to 
Vincenza he took in more passengers; two women, ap- 
parently a mother and daughter, both old and crabbed 
enough to engineer pink teas. As they spoke nothing 
but Italian, no introductions were indulged in and we 
rode silently on. I noticed that the younger one had 
teeth as black as ebony. While I was trying to make out 
a diagonsis as to the cause, she complacently drew forth 
from the pectoral folds of her red calico dress, three long 
slender rolls of tobacco that were, no doubt, intended for 
cigars; they looked like Pittsburgh stogies with a straw 
running through the center. She offered one to me and 
one to the old lady. Lighting hers she smoked tranquilly 
during the remainder of the journey. Fearing my teeth 
would get as black as hers I did not incinerate mine. 

VINCENZA 

Arriving at the little city of Vincenza I surrendered 
the old establishment to the coachman, who asked the 
station master to tell me he wanted a bonus or gratuity. 
Feeling that I had already paid an enormous price for his 
services I told the interpreter to translate into proper and 
vigorous Italian the following proclamation: Your 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 19 

victim emphatically protests against being swindled any 
more by such an avaricious biped. 

A LANDSLIDE 

At Vincenza I boarded a train for Verona. Between 
the two cities there are many mountain tunnels. Rapidly 
rolling along we were suddenly held up by a landslide, 
caused by the heavy rains of the previous fortnight. A 
loud rumbling was heard and, looking out of the car 
window, we saw, just ahead, what seemed to be the 
whole side of a mountain sliding down onto the track in 
the form of an avalanche and completely filling up the 
entrance to the tunnel we were about to enter. Surely 
a narrow escape, for if that section of the mountain had 
fallen onto our train we could easily have dispensed 
with the services of an undertaker. We were detained 
for many long and tedious hours in this lonely Alpine 
gulch, with more threatening landslides on either side; 
all the time anxiously seeking ways and means of escape 
from impending danger. 

Men were called in from the neighboring vineyards 
and set to work carrying out the fallen dirt in baskets on 
their heads ; a slow process I assure you, when our anx- 
iety to escape is taken into consideration. As soon as 
sufficient earth was removed, so that a small opening in 
the top of the tunnel could be made, the passengers were 
forced to climb up the huge accumulation of soft mud in 
order to reach a train on the other side. Well, I thought 
to myself, this is one of the places where anticipated 
pleasures of travel fail to fill fond expectations. Rein- 
forcing my courage, I climbed, half wading, half walking, 
through the slimy ooze until I got over into the tunnel. 



20 INCIDENTS OF 

Down, down into its dark and gloomy depths I descended. 
The padrone who was carrying my grip, while walking 
through the dark passage, suddenly and silently disap- 
peared into a deep trench where he had fallen. I felt now 
that my earthly possessions, as well as my hopes, had gone 
forever. We tenderly hoisted him out, grip and all, and 
carried him to the mouth of the tunnel. The open air 
seemed to quickly revive him, so much so that he could 
be led away by his companions. 

The train, which stood waiting for us at the exit of 
the tunnel, was now boarded and we were soon on our 
way to Verona. Approaching the city, we had to cross 
the great river Adige. Just before reaching it, how- 
ever, we were informed that the floods had carried away 
nearly the entire bridge and that we would have to 
remain where we were all night — a bright prospect for 
an anxious traveler; sick, sore and sorry, yearning for 
the comforts of his happy home. After roaming about 
in Egyptian darkness and unexplored regions for some 
hours, drenched to the skin with torrential rains, I set out 
to ascertain the possibility of crossing the mighty flood 
that formed a barrier to my homeward progress. I dis- 
covered that the ancient stone bridge, which had withstood 
the storms of centuries, had at last yielded to the angry 
torrent that swept furiously down from the Tyrolean 
Alps. The entire flooring had fallen into the river — 
nothing but the side walls and abutments being left. 

A MIDNIGHT PERIL 

Although it was now far advanced into the night, with 
wind and rain adding to our misery, I resolved to reach 
the other side or "meet on that beautiful shore" in the 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 21 

attempt. Calling to my assistance a sinister looking 
Veronese, the only man I could find, I mounted the nar- 
row walls that were left standing and commenced my 
perilous journey to the distant, gloomy shores of Verona. 
My new-found friend was allowed to carry my luggage 
and even to clamber alons: before me on the wall. I 
was very willing to grant him precedence on this inter- 
esting occasion. Age, beauty or previous condition of 
servitude was not taken into consideration. Cautiously 
feeling our way in the darkness, often on hands and 
knees, along the trembling walls, I realized that my life 
hung on a single, slender thread. Our crumbling path- 
way was scarcely two feet in width and a single misstep 
or stumble would have instantly hurled us into the seeth- 
ing flood beneath. This ruined relic of the ancient bridge 
seemed fully a half mile in length. When the much 
longed for shore was reached I was so exhausted that I 
felt like lying down on the wet and muddy ground where 
I landed and wondered if life, under such adverse cir- 
cumstances, was really worth living. My reverie was 
soon rudely interrupted, however, by a loud and ominous 
rumbling, as of an earthquake. Instinctively and sud- 
denly peering through the darkness, where but a moment 
before I could perceive the faint outlines of the ruined 
bridge, I discovered that the entire structure had fallen 
into the water; no trace being left, save the abutments 
on either shore. I now fully realized the dangers of the 
undertaking just completed. 

Mastering what little strength I had I began to look 
around for some friendly shelter wherein I could rest 
my weary form. I was told that every hotel in Verona 
was flooded by the unusual and long continued rains, and 



22 INCIDENTS OF 

accommodations could not be found in the city. The 
railroad station, situated on rising ground, was the only 
public place where I could get shelter from the storm. 
Here I found a miscellaneous crowd packed together like 
sardines, there being no room to even sit down or re- 
cline. 

I was informed that the train would not start until 
morning. What a bright prospect for a weary traveler, 
far from home and friends in a strange land, to stand all 
the livelong night in that miserable station, with a pro- 
miscuous crowd, many of whom might have been dan- 
gerous characters of the vilest sort. After a long and 
tedious night of anxiety and patient suffering, the much 
wished for dawn appeared, the bright and welcome sun 
arose in the orient and a humble mortal was made happy 
in the hope of once more seeing his domestic fireside. 

VERONA 

On my second visit to Verona I was accompanied by 
Mr. Henry A. Smith of Binghamton, N. Y. As we were 
about to enter the gates of the ancient city we were halted 
by a pair of arrogant officers who haughtily demanded to 
know who we were and where we came from, and even 
went so far as to examine very minutely our belongings. 
We endured the interruption with resignation, as we 
were aware that the Veronese have not yet awakened to 
the fact that the internecine wars of Italy are over. 

It was our good fortune to be there on the feast of 
St. Zeno. The entire city was in holiday attire and the 
streets were thronged with old and young, rich and poor 
bent on giving the greatest honor and glory to their 
patron. We went over to the ancient cathedral where 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 23 

the saint's remains were lying in state, decorated with 
the robes and insignia of his ecclesiastical rank. The 
little that remained of his corporeal form was but a flesh- 
less skeleton much darkened and decayed by the ravages 
of centuries. We were there told that Zeno was an 
African bishop of Verona in the third century. If such 
were the case the preservation of his remains for so long 
a time would seem to border on the miraculous. 

We had a guide whose English vocabulary was limited 
to about four words and a half, nevertheless we suc- 
ceeded in getting around Verona with fair satisfaction. 
Cathedrals and palaces claimed much of our attention 
but the most interesting feature shown us was the ancient 
Roman amphitheatre in a partial state of preservation, 
having not yet reached that dissolution which would 
prohibit complete restoration. It was built in the second 
and third centuries and what is left of it very much re- 
sembles the Colosseum at Rome. On its inner wall is 
marked the height of the waters in the great flood of 
1882, the year in which I first visited Verona and crossed 
the ruins of the tottering bridge that trembled above the 
roaring Adige. The floods of that year were the most 
destructive ever known in Italy. As a matter of course 
we visited the tomb of Shakespeare's Juliet. It reminded 
me of an empty stone watering trough, the remains hav- 
ing long since been removed and scattered to the un- 
known. The homes of the Capulets and Montagues 
were shown us as interesting relics of the well known 
drama. 

From Verona we passed up through the Austrian 
Dolomites and the Tyrolean Alps whose beauty rivals 
that of the Swiss mountains. As the cars were rushing 



24 INCIDENTS OF 

along through the rocky gorges and up the mountain 
grades I noticed in front of us two weary individuals 
who had succumbed to the seductive wiles of Morpheus. 
In their "peaceful slumbers" their heads swayed wildly 
to and fro with the motion of the swiftly moving train 
until they wabbled about like sunflowers in a high wind. 
One was a sleek, good-looking gentlemen, evidently of 
refinement; the other was a fat, thick necked old man 
with a plethoric nose. He reminded me of a well-fed 
rhinoceros. While beholding these wild gyrations I pre- 
dicted a collision and sure enough their heads came vio- 
lently together with a "dull, sickening thud" that startled 
us all. It is needless to say they were aroused and such 
fierce, mutual glares, mingled with dazed and quizzical 
expressions, I never before witnessed. 

I must say that the Italian railway "system" takes the 
medal (leather) for producing the most confusion in a 
given space of time of any concern in this busy world. 
The officers themselves don't seem to understand one 
another and when a station is reached a regular bedlam 
sets in and lasts long after the "conductor's" brass 
whistle toots the signal for departure. The hod car- 
riers of the Tower of Babel could have given them 
pointers on order and system with much benefit to their 
pandemonium. 

ST. MARK'S— GEM OF THE ADRIATIC 
What St. Peter's is to Rome St. Mark's is to Venice 
— the center of interest and admiration, the Mecca of 
all European tourists. Our first thought after arriv- 
ing in the city was to visit the famous Basilica. As 
we entered St Mark's Sqtjar^ I .spied a banking estab- 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 25 

lishment and went in to get some cheques cashed. 
When I entered I saw two gentlemen whom I took 
for Catholic clergymen. Feeling at home in such com- 
pany I ventured to introduce myself and was graciously 
received by the reverend strangers. In the course of 
subsequent conversation they mentioned Niagara Uni- 
versity when my heart gave an extra thump or two as I 
became suddenly interested. I eagerly asked if they 
were acquainted with that institution. The younger one 
immediately answered and said that his companion, 
Father McHale, was the president of "Old Niagara." I 
now felt perfectly at home as I am an alumnus of the 
same University. 

The gentlemen were now as much surprised as I was 
when I first learned their identity. 

After a pleasant conversation, relating mostly to my 
Alma Mater, they told me of their delight at being able 
to visit the wonderful church of St. Mark they had read 
of and heard so much about. As they had just returned 
from there they directed my attention to certain features 
that they warned me not to neglect seeing. Bidding them 
good-bye I hastened off to enter the church I had come 
so far to visit. 

Joining my companion, who had not entered the of- 
fice, we went over to the Basilica at the other end of the 
great square. As we entered, Mass was going on and we 
reverently knelt on the marbled floor, as there were no 
pews or chairs to be seen. The ceremonies were very 
impressive and solemn, and would have been more so 
were it not that we were greatly annoyed by beggars who 
persistently bothered us during the entire time we were 
there. 



26 INCIDENTS OF 

After the services we were shown about the edifice by 
a guide who explained the principal objects of interest 
and showed us the tomb of the Evangelist St. Mark 
which is behind the high altar. 

The architecture of this church is so unique and ex- 
quisite that I will not attempt to write of it but will give 
my readers an extract from Ruskin's "Stones of Venice" 
that has never been surpassed for description. 

'"ST. mark's^ VENICE 

"Beyond those troops of ordered arches there 
rises a vision out of the earth, and all the great 
square seems to have opened from it in a kind of 
awe, that we may see if far away ; a multitude of 
pillars and white domes, clustered into a long low 
pyramid of colored light; a treasure heap, it 
seems, partly of gold and partly of opal and 
mother-of-pearl, hollowed beneath into five great 
vaulted porches, ceiled with fair mosaic and beset 
with sculpture of alabaster, clear as amber and 
delicate as ivory — sculpture, fantastic and in- 
volved, of palm leaves and lilies, and grapes and 
pomegranates, and birds clinging and fluttering 
among the branches, all twined together into an 
endless network of buds and plumes ; and in the 
midst of it the solemn forms of angels, sceptered, 
and robed to the feet, and leaning to each other 
across the gates, their figures indistinct among the 
gleaming of the golden ground through the leaves 
beside them — interrupted and dim, like the morn- 
ing light as it faded back among the branches of 
Eden, when first its gates were angel-guarded 
long ago. 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 27 

"And round the walls of the porches there are 
set pillars of variegated stones — jasper and 
porphyry and deep green serpentine, spotted with 
flakes of snow, and marbles that half refuse and 
half yield to the sunshine. Cleopatra-like 'their 
bluest viens to kiss' — ^the shadow, as it steals back 
from heaven, revealing line after line of azure 
undulation, as a receding tide leaves the waved 
sand; their capitals rich with interwoven tracery, 
rooted knots of herbage, and drifting leaves of 
acanthus and vine, and mystical signs, all begin- 
ning and ending in the Cross ; and above them in 
the broad archivolts, a continuous chain of lan- 
guage and of life — angels, and the signs of 
heaven, and the labors of men, each in its ap- 
pointed season upon the earth; and above these, 
another range of glittering pinnacles, mixt with 
white arches edged with scarlet flowers — a con- 
fusion of delight, amidst which the breasts of the 
Greek horses are seen blazing in their breadth of 
golden strength, and the St. Mark's Lion, lifted on 
a blue field covered with stars ; until at last, as if 
in ecstasy, the crests of the arches break into a 
marble foam, and toss themselves far into the 
blue sky in flashes and wreaths of sculptured 
spray, as if the breakers on the Lido shore had 
been frost-bound before they fell, and the sea- 
nymphs had inlaid them with coral and amethyst. 

"Between that grim cathedral of England and 
this, what an interval! There is a type of it in 
the very birds that haunt them; for instead of 
the restless crowd, hoarse voiced and sable 



28 INCIDENTS OF 

winged, drifting on the bleak upper air, the St. 
Mark's porches are full of doves, that nestle 
among the marble foliage, that mingle the soft 
iridescence of their living plumes, changing at 
every motion, with the tints, hardly less lovely, 
that have stood unchanged for seven hundred 
years." 

FRATRES MISERICORDIAE 

One day during my rambles about Florence I met an 
unusual concourse of men on a bridge that crosses the 
Arno. They were dressed in long, black robes, and 
faces and heads were covered with cowls in which 
were holes for the eyes. So thoroughly were they 
disguised that one would not be able to recognize 
among them his long neglected creditor or even a bill 
collector. They seemed to stand at "parade rest" on the 
middle of the bridge. As I approached them a member 
stepped out of the ranks and coming over to me peered 
into my face as if he knew me and said something in 
Italian which I did not understand. I then spoke to 
him in Latin with which he seemed very familiar, asking 
him what society that was and why were they dressed 
so oddly. Before answering my question he apologized 
for his rudeness in looking at me so closely, saying he 
thought he knew me, and that I was an old friend from 
the Appian Way in Rome. That is the first time I was 
ever accused of being an Italian and a Roman citizen at 
that. He then went on to briefly explain the object and 
aims of this society. 

He said they were known as the Fratres Misericordiae 
or Brothers of Mercy, their order having been established 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 29 

in the Thirteenth Century. Its primary object was to 
mitigate the rigor of feudal distinctions and to enforce 
perfect equaHty of all men before God. It is composed 
of the wealthy and prosperous classes, among whom are 
many sons of noblemen. Their added duties now com- 
prise aid to the injured, caring for the sick and decent 
burial for the poor and friendless. 

The young men who compose this society are not 
known, even to their intimate friends. They wish to 
keep themselves incognito that their charity may not be 
lauded and also that their work may be more effectually 
done. 

When a young man of the order hears of an accident, 
happening in the street or elsewhere, he quietly glides 
out, even if he be in the midst of the mazy dance, slips 
on his black robe and hastens off to render assistance to 
some poor unfortunate. 

Such institutions are worthy of unlimited praise and 
imitation at all times and in all places. Much credit is 
also due the Church that has aided and encouraged them 
even from their very inception and also carefully guarded 
the principle of humanity against the encroachments of 
caste during the m.iddle ages, thus preventing the poor 
and helpless from being trampled under foot by a haughty 
aristocracy. 

ROME 

Ever since early childhood it has been my cherished 
ambition to visit Rome, the Eternal City. At last in 1882 
my ardent longings were gratified. In that year I first 
went there. I also made three subsequent visits, the last 
being in 1903. In a condensed form I will endeavor to 



30 INCIDENTS OF 

portray impressions obtained on those occasions, and to 
describe places and incidents without going into minute 
details. 

THE GREAT BASILICA 

Of course St. Peters is the center of attraction, not 
only of Rome, but of the entire Christian world. I will 
not attempt a description of this great Basilica, as it has 
so often been enshrined in prose and poetry that any 
effort on my part would seem superfluous. I will say, 
however, that upon entering this sacred edifice one is 
perfectly overwhelmed with the grand vista suddenly 
revealed to him. With the exception of Milan and 
Cologne and a few lesser ones, all other cathedrals on 
this mundane sphere dwindle, in comparison, to mere 
chapels. In this historical edifice are the tombs of 
popes, martyrs and confessors. Also in the great crypt 
beneath it lie the remains of kings, queens and emperors, 
among them being those of St. Peter himself. A hun- 
dred brazen lamps continually illuminate his venerated 
shrine. The lights, emblematic of Christian faith, are 
constant reminders of the religious devotion of all Christ- 
endom. 

CHRIST IN THE TEMPLE 

Among the many objects of interest to be seen in this 
delightful wilderness of priceless antiquities and superb 
works of art, is a marble pillar from Jerusalem which, 
tradition says, was held sacred from the fact that the 
Child Jesus was leaning against it when his parents found 
him in the temple disputing with the venerable doctors 
of the Mosaic law. As I remember it, the pillar or 
column is about ten feet high and fluted as we often see 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 31 

in modern buildings. The marble, which was originally 
white, is now a yellowish brown from age and really 
looks very ancient. It is only a fragment of the original 
and is inclosed by an iron railing of exquisite workman- 
ship. This ancient relic is an object of much reverential 
interest. As one beholds it and reverts to the Bible 
story of the sorrowing parents seeking the lost Child, 
his retrospective imagination carries him back to Solo- 
mon's Temple in the long ago, and the joyous moment 
when the fond parents found their Loved One leaning 
against the very pillar which you are beholding. 

The grand mosaics which adorn St. Peter's are a revel- 
ation to the novice. They are made of various colored 
marbles so skillfully inlaid as to represent lifelike figures 
and landscapes in the most impressive manner. When I 
first saw them I thought they were oil paintings and was 
so sure of it that I asked an attendant how many paint- 
ings there were in St. Peters. Astonished at my simple 
question he said there was not an oil painting in the 
entire church except one, and that was in the sacristy. 

In a great cathedral like St. Peter's one would expect 
to see gorgeous windows, stained and figured with relig- 
ious subjects but, strange as it may seem, there are no 
colored windows in all this vast edifice. They are filled 
with plain glass, that the interior may have all the light 
possible to give a proper effect to the numberless works 
of art. 

A SOJOURN ON THE ROOF OF ST. PETER's 

In my enthusiasm to see as much of Rome as possible 
I made the ascent to the top of the dome of St. Peter's. 
On t-he way down from the pinnacle I stepped out 



32 INCIDENTS OF 

onto the roof as I reached the base of the dome. Here 
I became bewildered as I could not find the proper door 
leading to the great descending stairway. I wandered 
over the vast roof for nearly an hour before I could find 
anyone to show me the exit. In the mean time I utilized 
my exalted detention by examining and studying the 
various works of art with which the roof of this great 
church is adorned. Many former Popes have placed 
above the cornices their coat of arms in finely chiseled 
marble, giving dates and so forth, relating to important 
events of their respective reigns. At last my deliver- 
ance came in the person of one of the attendants who 
lived up there. By the way a great many persons dwell 
in little casas on the roof, but as they were nearly all on 
duty below I found it difficult to capture one when I 
wanted him. 

On another occasion I was on this same roof when the 
great bells of St. Peter's suddenly tolled out to the 
world the announcement that a pope had been elected to 
succeed Leo XIII. To fully describe my sensations on 
that memorable occasion would be impossible. Being so 
near the mammoth chimes the noise was fairly deafening 
but wildly musical. The great bells rang out with such 
vigor and so rapidly that the edifice fairly trembled under 
us. The strokes of the bells could not be distinguished 
on account of the prolonged vibrations of the chimes. 
At a distance the airs, no doubt, could be made out, but 
to us, in the midst of the clamor, it seemed more like the 
buzzing that might come from a colony of a thousand 
beehives, with each noisy bee as big as a polar bear. 

THE VATICAN 

If reports be true the Vatican is the largest palace on 



SI 

:^ 
< 

< 

I— I 

O 



> 

o 

H 

W 

< 
> 

H 
I— I 

n 

> 




EUROPEAN TRAVEL 33 

earth. Romans claim it contains eleven thousand rooms. 
It does certainly look very large and as roomy as rumor 
claims. The exterior is not very attractive, as many 
additions were built at different times and by various 
constructors, thus depriving it of that uniform architect- 
ure we might expect in such a famous palace. The 
interior, however, contains treasurers of art far surpass- 
ing in beauty and value all other collections in the world. 
The statuary and paintings in its immense museum are 
originals, no copies being allowed standing or hanging 
room. Many sculptors and painters from all parts of 
the world are constantly making copies of the precious 
works of art so highly cherished by all lovers of the 
beautiful. During the Chicago exhibition strong efforts 
were made for a loan of some of the original works of the 
old masters, but pleadings were in vain, as no money 
value could be placed upon them and insurance could not 
be thought of, as they could not be replaced in case of 
loss. 

The art treasures of the Vatican are so numerous and 
the galleries so vast that it is impossible for the visitor 
to give anything like a satisfactory description of the 
numberless objects of interests contained therein. I can 
only say, in a general way, that I was more than delighted 
to witness, in snowy marble and lasting bronze, the ful- 
fillment of my early day-dreams of the Greek and Roman 
classics as I read them at Old Niagara, in the happy 
days of long ago when buoyant youth and bounding 
ambition fired my zeal to know the history and various 
exploits of the heroes of antiquity. 

THE ANCIENT FORUM 

One of the most interesting localities in Rome is the 



34 INCIDENTS OF 

Forum, so often described by travelers. It is a mine of 
vast historical treasures and is eagerly sought by 
studious antiquarians. As I wandered through its 
crumbling arches and among the fluted columns, retro- 
spection, with all its hallowed memories, recalled the fact 
that this portion of the Eternal City was once the scene 
of a civic life and national ambition that set the pace for 
all future time. Here was held the most important com- 
mercial transactions of the city. Here orators and states- 
men held forth to the frenzied throngs that often filled 
the vast area. The sculptured ruins afford a realistic 
panorama of present desolation and faded glory of former 
grandeur. 

THE MAMERTINE 

At the very edge of the Forum is the Mamertine 
Prison, a most noted relic of ancient Rome. It is one 
of the earliest structures of the city, being built many 
years before the Christian era. TuUy speaks of it in 
his works as the "Career media urbe imminens foro."* 
It was used as a dungeon for distinguished prisoners, 
its only opening or ingress being a circular aperture in 
the top of the arched roof, through which the victims 
were lowered. It is vividly described by Sallust when 
treating of the "conspirators," many of whom were here 
starved to death. The great Carthaginian general Jug- 
urtha, who was let down into this dungeon, killed himself 
by striking his head against the walls. As there was no 
way of escape, no water or food for the prisoners, they 
preferred a speedy death to prolonged torture. It was 
formerly called the Tullianum, and tradition has it that 
Sts. Peter and Paul were imprisoned here just previous 

* The prison in the middle of the city, just above the Forum. 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 35 

to their martyrdom. Our party visited this ancient 
prison. It consists of two stories, the top of the upper 
one being now on a level with the street, the result of 
the gradual accumulation of ages. The lower story, 
where the prisoners were kept, is reached by a modern 
stairway. A rude doorway of latter day construction 
now gives access to this ancient chamber of horrors. 
The grimy walls and roughly cemented floor are in keep- 
ing with its gruesome history. A little altar stands 
against the northern wall and visitors are shown a pool 
of water that springs up beside it which, tradition says, 
was called into existence by the prayers of St. Peter dur- 
ing his imprisonment. We each took a drink from it 
in honor of the occasion. As we were leaving the prison 
we were surrounded by a noisy troupe of ragged juvenile 
merchants who anxiously endeavored to sell us their 
wares, consisting of pictures of the Mamertine and doubt- 
ful souvenirs, also alleged photos and snapshots of some 
of the famous prisoners. Their enterprise and persist- 
ence would do credit to the noisy curbstone brokers of 
Wall Street. ; 

SANTA SCALA 

The Holy Stairway, located in a handsome building 
just opposite the church of St. John Lateran, is an object 
of much devotion for the faithful. It is said to be the 
identical stairs upon which Christ ascended and descended 
at the time of His trial before Pilate. It is even now in 
a good state of preservation. It is built of white marble. 
The treads and faces of the steps are covered with a dark 
wood resembling black walnut. Through this are many 
scroll-like openings which allow the visitor to see the 
original steps. No one is allowed to ascend these stairs 



36 INCIDENTS OF 

except upon his knees. This reverential ceremony was 
performed by the writer on his last visit to Rome. 

THE CATACOMBS OF ST. CALISTA 

On the Appian Way just outside the old walls of the 
city are the famous Catacombs which fill one with re- 
verential awe when he reflects on the sufferings and de- 
privations of the early Christians. Here they hid from 
their persecutors, the pagan emperors and their minions. 
In little underground chapels they stealthily assembled 
to worship God and follow the teachings of Christ. 
Thousands were dragged forth from these subterranean 
refuges to expiate the pagan crime of Christian worship 
by an agonizing martyrdom. No rank, condition, or age 
was spared. Popes, bishops, priests and the faithful 
laity were alike sent to the martyr's stake or the glowing 
gridiron. Noble matrons, young virgins and even help- 
less infants shared alike the relentless cruelty of those 
inhuman monsters. 

After the long reign of religious persecution had some- 
what abated, these lonely caverns were used as burial 
places for the Christians. Now only empty tombs and 
crumbling sarcophagi line the dark and gloomy walls. 

Our guide with taper in hand led us on from gallery to 
chapel and from cavern to dungeon, giving us in the 
meantime the history of famous persons who were once 
buried there, at the same time pointing out their tombs. 
Among those shown was that of St. Cecilia and also 
many of the martyred Popes and Bishops. I became 
quite a favorite with the venerable white-cassocked guide 
when he found I could converse with him in Latin. He 
took me with him to the head of the procession which was 
composed of many American and English tourists. Some 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 37 

turned back after passing through a few of the galleries, 
as they feared they might lose their way. Younger mem- 
bers of the group even cried to return to the upper 
world. As many lagged behind I was afraid they might 
get bewildered and lost. Some did go back even before 
the subterranean journey was well begun. A few, in- 
cluding Mrs. Doyle and myself, kept with the guide who 
led us on, deeper and deeper into the bowels of the 
earth through winding paths that seemed to have no end. 
I confess that I myself became somewhat timid when I 
considered what might become of us if the guide's 
solitary little taper should go out and leave us all in 
Egyptian darkness with no knowledge of the way back to 
daylight, through the tortuous galleries. There is no 
exact knowledge as to the extent of those galleries but 
some say they extend for miles in every direction. Many 
indiscreet persons who have attempted to explore the 
Catacombs without guides have never returned to report 
their discoveries. 

THE CAPUCHIN CATACOMBS 

There are many other catacombs in and about Rome 
besides those of St. Calista. Among the best known are 
those of the Capuchins. They are located beneath the 
church of that order within the city proper. When a 
member dies his remains are buried in the inclosed area 
of the Catacombs. After the flesh is sufiiciently decom- 
posed to allow its easy removal from the bones, the lat- 
ter are cleansed and placed on the walls or the ceilings 
of the underground chapels. The fantastic arrangement 
of the bones is a revelation to all visitors. Nothing but 
an actual inspection or a photograph can give an ade- 



38 INCIDENTS OF 

quate idea of the unusual sight presented. The side 
walls are decorated with bones artistically arranged so 
as to form arches and columns composed entirely of 
skulls and thigh bones. The ceilings are covered with 
ornamental patterns made up of segments or vertebrae 
of the spinal column and shoulder blades. Even the 
chandeliers are composed of arm bones and those of the 
hands and feet. The altars are "decorated" entirely with 
human bones. Under the osseous arches may be seen 
the ghastly remains of monks who died many years ago. 
Their bodies were embalmed and desiccated. They were 
then dressed in the habits they wore in life and placed in 
a standing position against the wall. With their ghastly 
heads hanging down or to one side they inspire the be- 
holder as specters of a frightful dream. 

No explanation as to the object of this charnel house 
was vouchsafed by the clerical guide, but it is quite evi- 
dent that it is sustained by the monks as a realistic re- 
minder of death — a silent but impressive sermon for all 
who behold it. I myself am inclined to believe that we 
meet, afflictions, disappointments and sorrows so often 
and in so many ways in this world that such an unusual 
display of human remains is entirely uncalled for and is 
rather demoralizing than edifying. 

THE CHURCH OF ST. PAUL 

Just outside the walls of Rome, and a short distance 
beyond the Catacombs of St. Calista is the Church of St. 
Paul. On our way there we stopped to visit the chapel of 
"Quo Vadis." It is built on the spot where, tradition 
says, Christ met St. Peter as the latter was fleeing from 
Rome. The Apostle, in surprise, addressed his Divine 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 39 

Master saying, "Domine, Quo Vadis" — "My Lord ! where 
are you going?" Christ replied: "I am going again to 
be crucified." It is a Httle octagonal oratory into which 
but a few persons can enter at a time. Its interior is 
very simple, being modestly decorated with religious 
emblems. 

As Mrs. Doyle and I entered St. Paul's nearby, we were 
met by a uniformed guide who wished to show us through 
the edifice. His vigorous attempts at making himself 
understood in English were so unsuccessful that I tried, 
by word and gesture, to make him understand that we 
wished no guide, especially one who could not converse 
in our language. He was very persistent, however, and 
by his actions clearly showed he was much nettled, and 
tried in every way to force his attentions on us. As 
we stood there trying to dispose of our unwelcome in- 
truder I noticed a priest praying before an altar op- 
posite. He seemingly became much interested in the 
unsuccessful attempts of the attendant to secure the 
"pleasure" of showing us around. Rapidly walking 
over to us in a lordly manner and apparently much ex- 
cited he demanded, in very vigorous Italian, why we did 
not accept the services of the guide. Understanding 
enough of his language to interpret his meaning, I 
promptly answered back in Latin, telling him our reasons. 
When his Reverence heard the language of the Caesars 
coming from the mouth of an American tourist, he was 
simply astounded and stood for a moment as if dazed. 
He then rushed over to me with both hands extended in 
friendly welcome, telling at the same time how glad 
he was to meet us and that he himself would be pleased 
to show us around the church. 



40 INCIDENTS OF 

The interior of this church is one of the most beautiful 
I have ever beheld. It contains the greatest and richest 
collection of precious marbles in the world. The altars 
are built of marbles of various shades and colors, rival- 
ing the hues of the rainbow. The great columns of ala- 
baster that support the roof are so translucent that the 
light of a candle can be seen through them. The popes, 
from Peter to Leo XIII., are remembered in mosaic 
medallions that are built into the walls, over the win- 
dows. The likeness of each pope is as authentic as 
could be obtained and is somewhat larger than life size, 
so that from a distance they may appear in proper pro- 
portions. The body of St. Paul is buried here, also that 
of St. Timothy. 

THE TREASURY OF ST. PAULA'S 

Our attention was directed to the treasury where the 
most precious relics and souvenirs are kept. We were 
shown a piece of the true cross about seven inches in 
length, also a skull which our guide said was that of 
a man who was a companion of Paul's, and a staff 
which Paul carried on his tours through Rome and the 
adjacent country. The chains which bound St. Paul 
in prison were handed us for inspection. It is about 
ten feet in length and is black and much polished by the 
handling it frequently receives from the Christian, the 
skeptic, the agnostic, etc., who go there to satisfy either 
laudable veneration or an idle curiosity. 

Among the many relics shown us was that of the arm 
of St. Anne, the mother of the Blessed Virgin. It is 
encased in a casket of gold, the top of which is covered 
with rock crystal as clear as the finest glass. Through 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 41 

this we saw the remains of a hand and arm. They were 
dried, shriveled and of a very dark brown color — almost 
black. I said to our guide that I understood they had 
the arm of St. Anne in Canada. "Oh, yes !" he replied. 
"Some gentlemen were here from that country and asked 
for a relic of St. Anne ; we gave them a very small piece 
from this which they now have at St. Anne de Beaupre." 

THE CHAPEL OF THE THREE FOUNTAINS 

Situated a short distance from the church, of St 
Paul, in the midst of a beautiful eucalyptus grove on the 
Campagna is the Chapel of the Three Fountains. This 
chapel was built in commemoration of the martyrdom of 
St. Paul. Tradition says it stands on the identical spot 
where he met his death. In the chapel are shown three 
fountains or springs in the floor about ten feet apart. 
The legend has it that when St. Paul's head was severed 
from his body, it bounded three times on the ground. 
From each spot where it struck, sprang forth a fountain 
or pool of pure water. From each of these we reverently 
took a drink, in memory of the great evangelist. The 
chapel is constantly attended by a brotherhood of monks 
who are very courteous and attentive to visitors. The 
eucalypti, which grow here in abundance, are famed for 
their antimalarial qualities, and are a great boon to this 
miasmatic region. They were set out by order of the 
government. 

THE CHURCH OF THE TWELVE APOSTLES 

One of the most magnificent churches in the Eternal 
City, where there are over four hundred places of Divine 
worship, is that of the Twelve Apostles. It was presided 



42 INCIDENTS OF 

over, at the time of our visit, by Very Rev. Joseph 

Lessen, better known as Father Joseph in Syracuse, 

where he was at one time Superior of the Church of the 

Ajssumption. (Father Joseph has since gone to his 

eternal reward). The venerable Father graciously 

accompanied us through the great edifice, and showed 

us, among other objects worthy of note, the tombs of the 

Apostles St. Philip and St. James. The last resting 

places of the saints are under altars which bear their 

names. He also showed us a most interesting collection 

of relics. Among them was a glass vessel containing an 

ounce of blood, said to be that of the martyred Apostle 

St. James. It is still in a fluid state, and in Rome is 

known as the "perpetual miracle." I held the reliquary 

in my hand and, turning it from side to side, could 

plainly see the red, liquid blood flowing backwards and 

forwards. A large nail or spike, nearly a foot in length, 

used in the crucifixion of St. Peter, was also shown. 

As we were passing through an outside corridor, 
Father Joseph pointed out to us the original tomb of 
Michael Angelo. It appears the illustrious architect, 
sculptor, painter and poet was first sepulchured in the 
walls of this church and remained there for many years. 
One gloomy night his body was surreptitiously removed 
from the tomb and taken to Florence, the home of his 
early days. It now rests there in the church of Santa 
Croce. />i 

FROM ST. Peter's dome 

During the author's fourth visit to Rome he made the 
ascent of St. Peter's dome and stood in the hollow ball or 
sphere that surmounts it. This ball, which appears to 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 43 

be about the size of an apple, when viewed from the 
Plaza 500 feet below, is really large enough to comfort- 
ably hold sixteen men. It is made of copper and has 
fenestral openings which allow the tourist ample facil- 
ities to view the entire city and the hills and plains 
beyond. 

The following lines were inspired while viewing the 
Eternal City from this great center of Christianity : 

Within the sphere, beneath the cross 

Upon St. Peter's mighty dome 
I stood, and looked far off upon 

The seven hills of ancient Rome. 

The sun had risen in the East 

In his resplendent glory- 
To gild the city and the plains. 

So famed in song and story. 

Cathedral chimes rang out below, 

As if exultant with the scene. 
And wildly, grandly echoed far 

Beyond Campagna's forest green. 

The streets and plazas lay below 

As like a wondrous map unrolled, 

And to my eager mind revealed 
A vision heretofore untold. 

O'er the ancient Colosseum 

And Father Tiber's yellow flood 

My vision far entrancing went 

As on this lofty dome I stood. 

Just below lay near together 

The marble bridge of Angelo 
And haughty Hadrian's castled tomb. 

The pride of Romans long ago. 



44 INCIDENTS OF 

The Forum stands off to the right, 
The city's mart before the fall, 

Near Mamertine, where martyrs slept; 
Beloved Peter and St. Paul. 

The Appian Way, where victors led 

The royal captives, claimed as Rome's 

Winds out beyond the crumbling walls 
That guard the sacred Catacombs. 

Oh, how I loved recalling there 

Rome's mystic and historic lore, 

Her deeds of fame, her mighty past. 
Her glories of the days of yore. 



A MODERN PLEBEIAN 

My first visit to Rome was made memorable by a little 
incident that was trivial in itself but went far to illustrate 
the sudden enterprise of the swarthy descendants of the 
Plebeians. 

As our train rolled into the station, we were greeted 
with much noise and confusion, so common to Italian 
aggregations. Looking out of the car window I noticed 
a troup of very tall soldiers, none of whom was less 
than six feet in height. They wore gaudy uniforms 
and very bright brass helmets which emphasized their 
altitude to a surprising degree. I then realized the cause 
of the excitement. It was the King's Body Guard which 
had come to escort His Royal Highness to the City of 
Milan. 

I stepped down from the car and had nearly reached 
the platform when a wild-looking individual excitedly 
rushed up, and, without asking leave, suddenly grabbed 
my satchel, rushed out of the station, and ran pell mell 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 45 

down the street. I followed, of course, chased him sev- 
eral blocks and was almost in despair of catching him 
when he stumbled and fell. I was so close then onto his 
heels that I rolled over him but soon regained my feet 
and captured the rascal before he could get away. I 
held onto him until an officer rushed up, to whom I sur- 
rendered the thief, who proved to be one of a gang that 
frequently rob incoming passengers in this piratical 
manner. 

Thus was my initial entry to the Eternal City signal- 
ized. This lively incident gave me a very poor impres- 
sion of its modern proletariat. 

THE MYSTIC CITY 

Pleasures of travel are sometimes seasoned with 
trials and dangers that mar the happiness and dis- 
appoint the intentions of the tourist. In the summer 
of 1882 I was on my return from a visit in Rome 
and, not wishing to miss Venice, I made a detour in that 
direction. After a journey made tedious by the uncer- 
tainty and crudeness of the Italian railway system, I 
found myself in "the Mystic City of the Sea." Venice 
you know is built on one hundred and seventeen islands. 
It is not worried about paving contracts, for its streets 
are canals and its highways are surfaced with the rippling 
waves of the blue Adriatic. These canals were never 
dug. Nature formed them, and Art had only to 
straighten the banks of opposing islands to form the most 
complete canal system in the world. Sea water fills them 
and flows in every direction through the city. The ever 
changing tides keep the waterways purified. 

Venice with its grand canals, spanned by three hundred 



46 INCIDENTS OF 

and eighty artistic bridges, is entirely surrounded by la- 
goons and the deep sea. With its grand palaces and 
gorgeous basilicas it affords an elysium for lovers of art 
and the beautiful that is nowhere else surpassed, but 
Byron said: 

"In Venice Tasso's echoes are no more 

And silent rows the songless gondolier 

Her palaces are crumbling on the shore 

And music greets not always now the ear." 

The Venice of to-day is but a sad remembrance of the 
great republic of bygone centuries. Long before Amer- 
ica was dreampt of, the nations of the world sought this 
great city of the sea for knowledge in the arts and 
sciences and improvement in laws and commerce. Now 
the voice of the weird and weary gondolier seems to 
mockingly echo from the walls of her deserted palaces, 
memories of her long lost power and glory. Withal, 
Venice has her charms and one is greeted on every side 
with artistic visions that would entrance the heart of a 
Raphael or capture the soul of Michael Angelo. 

The markets are a study for the stranger. Here, fish 
and vegetables peculiar to the country are sold in great 
quantities. Fruits of all kinds are very abundant and of 
the most delicious quality. Fish are much used by the 
people and even snails are eaten and considered a great 
delicacy. Among the vegetables I noticed what might 
be called a very large pumpkin ; it must have weighed at 
least one hundred pounds and was covered with large 
bunion-like excrescences or barnacles. I called it a 
bunion pumpkin. The people bake it and say it is an ex- 
cellent article of food. 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 47 

Extensive glass works turn out the finest ornamental 
glass to be found anywhere. As to lace, every lady 
knows what Venice can do in that line. In one lace es- 
tablishment we visited, forty-five hundred women and 
girls were employed and the overseer told us that a girl 
must be very skillful to earn what is equivalent to twelve 
cents of our money in a day. Lace at one hundred dol- 
lars a yard, at that wages, should yield a large profit to 
somebody. There is not a horse in all Venice, except the 
famous four in bronze on St. Mark's, as they have no 
use for them. Most of the paths or streets between houses 
are less than ten feet in width. People carry heavy bur- 
dens on their heads, larger ones are conveyed by gon- 
dolas that take the place of wagons or trains. The guide 
told us that the only large quadruped in the city was an 
elephant and asked us if we wished to go out to the 
gardens to see him. We replied in the negative and in- 
formed him that there were plenty of that species in 
America. He seemed astonished, but we assured him 
that it was nevertheless a well known fact. 

In the early dawn it is an odd sight to behold the 
Venetians in their queer but gaudy costumes gathered 
around the wells and carrying off water in their quaint 
copper pails. Men, women and children eagerly wait 
their turn at the lifting-bucket and with a merry smile or 
a ringing laugh walk off with pails, hung on sticks 
thrown across their shoulders. Venice has no water 
works, but depends entirely on her thousand wells for 
which she is noted. That sewage affects well water 
here does not seem to be proven as the health of the city 
is as good as any in Italy. 

The dismal Bridge of Sighs, with its marble floors, so 



48 INCIDENTS OF 

often washed by the tears of anguish, was entered and 
crossed when these words of Byron came to mind : 

"I stood in Venice on the Bridge of Sighs 
A palace and a prison on either hand." 

THE CARNIVAL OF VENICE 

The palaces of the old Doges and the Venetian nobility 
were pointed out to us; among them being that of the 
famous Lucretia Borgia. Last night the annual carnival 
on the Grand Canal took place. On a mammoth barge, 
decorated with flags and flowers, was a castle illuminated 
with thousands of lights, enclosed in glass globes of all 
colors. It was filled with the elite of Venice. A marine 
band, perched on its summit, gave forth melodious strains 
that sounded far down the Adriatic. This jubilee ship 
was escorted by hundreds of gondolas with their oars- 
men in brilliant uniforms. The scene was like the ful- 
fillment of some marvelous dream, and excelled, if possi- 
ble, the golden barges of Cleopatra on the Nile. 

My traveling companion, Mr. Henry A. Smith, and I 
were among the spectators who thronged the docks and 
slowly moved along, abreast of the marine display. Be- 
fore leaving our hotel the landlord admonished us to be- 
ware of pickpockets that generally infested such nightly 
throngs. As the crowd was very large and dense, we 
made an effort to keep together for mutual protection. 
With all our precaution we became separated. Mr. Smith, 
forging ahead in his anxiety to keep up with the pro- 
cession, got a few paces in advance of me. As I did 
not want to lose him, I followed and, reaching forward 
between the people with great difficulty, succeeded in 
getting the nether extremity of his coat-tail. I gave it a 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 49 

gentle jerk which caused him to suddenly jump up and 
whirl around in great alarm and clap his hands over his 
pockets, as he thought he was being robbed. This un- 
expected and rapid movement caused much excitement in 
the crowd and almost raised a panic. In the confusion 
that followed a couple were crowded off the dock into 
the water but were quickly rescued. This latter incident 
was quickly forgotten as the Venetians are almost as 
much at home in the water as on shore. 

This reminds me that I often saw parents in Venice 
letting their children down out of the windows, to take a 
swim in the dark blue waters of the Grand Canal. The 
little ones were securely held by long scarfs or shawls 
and allowed to wiggle along on the surface of the water 
much after the fashion of young tadpoles. The baby 
swimmers would vigorously paddle away and fairly 
scream with delight as they enjoyed the watery element 
which would be so evident in their future lives and sur- 
roundings. 

As we were being gently wafted in a gondola along 
the Grand Canal one pleasant evening, I noticed a 
dove struggling in the water. It was evidently in great 
pain, as if wounded. I asked the gondolier to stop, that 
I might reach out and save it if possible, but he either 
misunderstood me or was indifferent to my appeal. It 
was to me a most pitiful sight and I yearned to rescue the 
bird whose ancestors had once saved Venice. 

The doves of St. Mark's, of which you have so often 
heard, are a grand reality, numbering some twelve thous- 
and. At exactly two p. m. they are called in from the 
lagoons and suburbs by the ringing of the city bells. It 
is a novel sight to behold the confidential eagerness with 



50 INCIDENTS OF 

which they accept food from the hands of visitors, and 
the people seem equally anxious to feed them. They 
will perch on the heads and shoulders of persons stand- 
ing around and become very familiar. I had four on my 
hand and arm at one time. It is said the doves once 
saved Venice by acting as messengers and it is a crime, 
punishable by imprisonment, to injure one of them. 

Yesterday we went to the Island of Lido, two miles 
from the city. This is the Coney Island of Venice. On 
pleasant afternoons the people of the city assemble here 
and enjoy bathing in the surf. We joined the bathers 
and took a swim in the Adriatic, returning to the city 
much refreshed. 

THE FIRST PAWN SHOP 

To leave Venice without crossing the Rialto would be 
an unpardonable omission on the part of the observing 
tourist. The grand old structure is as unique as famous. 
For centuries it was known as having the longest single 
arched span of any bridge in the world, but modern struc- 
tures have now far exceeded and robbed it of that dis- 
tinction. As it has been so often described and pictured 
I will not say more than to confirm the laudations of 
writers and poets who have embalmed its history and its 
beauties in immortal verse. Shakespeare makes Shylock 
speak thus : 

"Signer Antonio, many a time and oft 
In the Rialto you have rated me 
About my moneys." 

By the way, the first pawn shop ever established, was 
pointed out to us where Shakespeare's Shylock lived and 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 51 

loaned. It is a prison-like affair with barred windows 
and fully dismal enough to be the home of a miser who 
sought to barter sordid gold for a pound of human flesh. 
Our Jewish neighbors now call their pawnbroker shops 
"banks," but 

"You may break, you may shatter the balls if you will 
The odor of usury hangs round them still." 

[Slightly modified from Moore.] 

GENOA 
A little before midnight on the 9th of September, 1900, 
we arrived at Genoa after a pleasant ride from Milan. By 
a guide we were shown the most interesting places of the 
city, situated as it is around a gulf of the Mediterranean. 
I understand it is socalled from an Italian word signifying 
knee, as they fancied the bend in the gulf was like that of 
a human knee. From an elevation it presents a most pleas- 
ant sight. The buildings of light colored stone are so situ- 
ated that the city forms a mighty amphitheatre with the 
sea in the foreground. When we were there we con- 
sidered ourselves at the terrestrial hub, as the ancients, 
before Columbus discovered America, called it the cen- 
ter of the earth. Here Columbus lived and went to 
school. Some writers say he was born in a little 
village some distance from Genoa, but the best author- 
ity claims he was born in the latter place. Being 
anxious to still further commemorate the fame of this 
great discoverer, we drove out to where he formerly 
lived. As the street was very narrow, we were afraid 
our horses could not turn around in it to come back, and 
and as we did not wish to drive its whole length 
we concluded to leave the hack in a small plaza 



52 INCIDENTS OF 

just at the entrance. Taking my camera in hand I asked 
Mrs. Doyle to go with me but she was tired from much 
walking in the morning, and preferred to remain in the 
hack where she was. I then took the guide with me 
and we trudged up a dark and dismal alley-way of a 
street until we reached the house. As the street was 
narrow, I could not stand far enough back to get a good 
photograph. The guide then took me to the third story 
of a tenement just opposite, where I could get a better 
position. Up two rickety flights of stairs we went, and 
as we passed through the house to the front we were 
obliged to traverse the most dilapidated and poverty 
stricken set of rooms I ever beheld. Of course we asked 
permission to enter, but the inmates, men, women and 
children, stared at us as if we were inhabitants of Mars 
or some other distant planet, coming to do them some 
mysterious harm. The men especially, with their dark 
visages, crouching attitudes and searching looks, caused 
me to feel somewhat anxious and creepy for my personal 
safety. However, I succeeded in getting a good photo- 
graph of the home of Columbus from their window and 
supplemented my thanks for the accommodation with a 
few bits of silver for the children. 

When we returned to the carriage, where Mrs. Doyle 
was patiently waiting for us, she said she was almost 
frightened to death during our absence. A fierce riot 
took place around her carriage among a lot of women. 
It was the noon hour and it appears that the working wo- 
men of the neighborhood assembled there to while away 
the idle hour when not engaged in the factories nearby. 
They were drinking some kind of a very dark fluid — 
wine or beer from bottles. Whatever it was, it soon got 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 53 

in its work and they began to quarrel, fight, pull hair and 
yell like wild cats. Even the horses were so frightened 
they attempted to run away. 

One of the gardens, for which Genoa is famous, re- 
ceived our attention, and we were amply rewarded by 
walking through its winding paths, lined with orange, 
lemon and fig trees laden with luscious fruit. After 
riding about the city for several hours I found it very 
warm and sultry. The great heat was so oppressive that 
I resolved to go down to the sea and take a swim. It 
is not every day that an American citizen has a chance 
to tak-e a bath in the Mediterranean, so I availed myself 
of the rare opportunity and went out to a watering place 
on the coast where I found hundreds of men, women and 
children sporting in the clear blue waters of the classic 
sea. I found there some very clever swimmers. Many 
of them would remind you of the sleek-backed seals of the 
ocean, so agile were their movements in the deep, trans- 
parent waters. The Italians here take to the water with 
great gusto and show the result in their robust and sym- 
metrical forms. Mind you, these people live in northern 
Genoa and not in southern Calabria. No more polite or 
accommodating people have we met in all our travels. 
Their manners are polished and no idlers are to be met, 
except now and then a decripit or superannuated beggar 
— and they are not importunate. 

Great carts, heavily laden and drawn by six or eight 
horses driven tandem, are a common sight. The con- 
siderate drivers adorn their beasts of burden with minia- 
ture awnings perched on their heads to protect them 
from the scorching sun, so that the entire outfit made a 
strangely comical spectacle. The hubbub and confusion 



54 INCIDENTS OF 

of the busy streets, which lasts far into the night, make 
sleep almost impossible. I was forcibly reminded that 
here babies cry, dogs bark and cats serenade for all the 
world as they do in America. 

PISA 
Our next sojourn was at Pisa. The ride from Genoa 
along the seashore can be enjoyed, but not adequately 
described. The moon was at its zenith and cast forth 
a golden light, peculiar to these climes, that reflected 
from the dancing waves of the midnight Mediterranean 
a glitter like that from the polished shields of ancient 
armies. The craggy rocks, the rich foliage, the over- 
hanging fig trees and the hedges of century plants 
make this coast a scene unsurpassed by the tales of 
Aladdin. The following morning found us ascend- 
ing the Leaning Tower or Campanile as they call it 
there. From its summit can be seen the Appenines on the 
left and the sea on the right and also the entire city. 
From its top Galileo made his experiments in gravitation. 
It is built of white marble and is about 180 feet high. 
Seven large bells hang in its apex. It deviates from the 
perpendicular fourteen feet. The great cathedral near 
the tower contains the identical chandelier from which 
Galileo first conceived the idea of the clock pendulum. 
Here also is the Campo Santo, or holy plain, to which 
seventy-eight shiploads of earth were brought from Jer- 
usalem that Pisa's sons and daughters might find their 
last resting place in sacred ground. 

THE INFERNO 

Around about the Campo Santo is a high wall on the 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 55 

east side of which are many scenes from Holy Scripture, 
painted long ago by renowned artists. They are of 
heroic size and represent the creation, the crucifixion. 
Heaven, the last judgment, etc. On the opposite side 
are some fierce and gruesome pitcures of Hell, which 
would terrify the most hardened infidel. 

The Infernal Regions are represented by the picture of 
a huge oven of great length. Its top is arched 
much like the coke ovens of Western Pennsylvania. On 
the top of this are openings that have lids apparently of 
bronze. Here and there could be seen covers partly 
raised, where some poor sinners were poking their heads 
out trying to get a whiff of cool, fresh air. With open 
mouths, staring eyes and parched tongues hanging out, 
it was truly a heartrending sight. To add to their misery 
the lurid flames never ceased to pour out on either side. 

One lid was raised nearly half up, when a devil dressed 
in scarlet asbestos tights, pushed back with a trident, like 
Neptune's, a poor unfortunate who was trying to escape. 
A little further on a devil has caught a sinner who is 
made to stand bolt upright facing him, while the poor fel- 
low's entrails are being taken out and rolled around the 
arms of his tormenter as on a spinner's reel. Just be- 
yond this is shown an escaping sinner who has been 
caught and made to stand still while his head is being 
longitudinally divided by a huge saw in the hands of as 
ugly a devil as Dante ever described. The victim stands 
firmly and quietly and wears a sort of a frightened smile 
as if it didn't amount to much after all. 

Many other similar scenes were graphically depicted on 
this abode of everlasting torment. It is no wonder the 
ancients were very scrupulous, as such realistic reminders 



56 INCIDENTS OF 

of the wrath to come were enough to frighten them into 
obedience or something else. 

I don't believe this manner of mental discipline is at all 
proper. I prefer modern modes of teaching ; explanation 
and gentle exhortation. Word painting of a happy 
world beyond the grave, minus terrible threats of ever- 
lasting tortures for frail humanity, would accomplish 
more good than the lurid exhibition of gruesome and 
frightful caricatures. 

On our return home from this hair-raising spectacle 
we nearly ran against another of a more animated kind. 
Just ahead of us, as we were going to our hotel, we 
saw a wrangling crowd which was very much excited and 
boisterous. As we approached, we noticed a fierce battle 
was going on among an ugly looking lot of desperadoes. 
They were using stilettos freely and from the way many 
of them went to the ground I judged it was a fight to 
the finish. Not caring to let our curiosity get sufficient 
control over us to endanger our lives, we hastily turned 
the nearest corner and reached our hotel by a detour 
through the vicinity of the Leaning Tower. 

CORONATION OF PIUS X 

Just before we left for our European trip in July, 
1903, we heard of the serious illness of Leo XIII. 
We were in hopes he would survive our arrival in 
Rome, but when our ship reached Gibraltar v/e were 
told of his death which took place the day before. Al- 
though the sad event had long been expected, on ac- 
count of his delicate condition and extreme age, the 
news caused a feeling of sadness that was very evident 
among all the passengers, creed or nationality making no 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 57 

distinction among those who mourned the loss of this 
truly great man — the wonder of the nineteenth century. 

On our arrival in Rome preparations were being al- 
ready made for the election of his successor. The Eter- 
nal City was in a state of subdued excitement. People 
were hurrying to and fro as if on some serious errand. 
Among the throng were numbers of the clergy who 
plainly betrayed great sorrow for their loss. 

After a day's rest at the Hotel Marini on the Via 
Tritoni, we went over to St. Peter's, where we learned 
the cardinals had already assembled and that the election 
for a pope was in progress. On the great Plaza in front 
of the Basilica were many thousands looking at the 
upper windows of the Vatican where the election was 
going on. It appears several ballots were taken before 
a choice was made. I asked a man, whom I took for a 
cleric, why they gazed so intently at the upper windows, 
as they could recognize no one at that distance. He said 
they were not looking so much at the windows as at a 
large chimney above them, and that after the voting, 
which had already been going on for two days, the ballots 
would be collected and burned in a fireplace in the great ■ 
hall, and when smoke was seen coming from that par- 
ticular chimney, it was a sign the choice had been made. 
We watched for a long time with the throng and were 
about to return to our hotel when we were startled with 
a loud huzza from the immense concourse of people on 
the plaza when they saw the ominous smoke pouring 
forth from the chimney. We then knew the meaning 
of the great commotion. The ballots were burning, the 
new pope was elected. 

Being now satisfied that the election was over, we 



58 INCIDENTS OF 

entered our carriage and made a tour of the Appian Way 
for the special purpose of visiting the tombs of the 
former emperors of Rome, many of which border this 
famous old highway. It is needless to say they were 
very interesting. A full and detailed description of 
them would require one's time for many months, and 
copy enough to make a large volume. 

I was somewhat shocked and almost scandalized to 
note that modern irreverence had boldly planted ordinary 
telegraph poles on the last resting places of the famous 
emperors of ancient Rome. 

On our return to the Hotel Marini we immediately be- 
gan preparations to attend the coronation which we 
learned would take place on the following Sunday (Aug. 
9, 1903). 

Most Rev. Dominic Renter, Superior General of the 
Franciscan Order, entertained us as his guests. Being 
very close to the papal throne, in fact so near that he 
was the chosen one to read the last prayers at the bedside 
of the dying Pontiff, Leo XIII, he was in a position to 
grant us many unusual favors which he very graciously 
did, and for which we are very thankful. 

All Rome was in a great state of enthusiasm on the 
following Sunday morning as we set out for St. Peter's. 
We thought we would be rather early, but when we 
reached the grand plaza we found it occupied by many 
thousands who had preceded us. A regiment of soldiers 
was stationed in front of the church to prevent the throng 
from entering until the signal should be given. Mr. 
Peters and I stood patiently waiting for an early oppor- 
tunity to get in, that we might secure a good position. 
Each of us carried a small stool, for you know there are 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 59 

no pews in St. Peter's. At the word of command the 
troops opened ranks and the crowd rushed like a tidal 
wave up the steps of the great portico. In the confus- 
ion Mr. Peters and I became separated and did not meet 
again until after the ceremonies. 

I succeeded in reaching a place in the church where 1 
had an opportunity of obtaining a close view of the 
Pope when he passed on his way to the throne. The 
throng on that occasion was as great as the church could 
hold, for the number was estimated at 80,000. All the 
audience stood, none could sit even if they wished to. 
I found the stool I brought was useless, as I could find 
no place to put it. Seeing a woman standing near me 
who seemed fatigued I gave it to her, and in return for 
the kindness she placed it, by much pushing and crowd- 
ing, on the floor just in front of me and stood on it, 
thereby shutting out my view completely until I remon- 
strated. 

The crowd there was so densely packed that one could 
not raise his arms from his side except with the greatest 
difficulty. I could not even take out my watch. A man 
who stood beside me had a straw hat which he feared 
would be crushed if he held it down, and insisted on 
holding it above the crowd and just in front of my face 
instead of his own. I gave him a look of surprise which 
he did not seem to twig. So he boldly insisted on hold- 
ing there until I pushed his arm aside with more force 
than he expected, which caused him to grunt and growl 
out something I did not understand or care to. I should 
judge by his appearance and transcendent impudence that 
he belonged to that class of Bohemians who push their 
way in the world rather by foul means than by fair — a 



60 INCIDENTS OF 

class that cannot be insulted and will act the coward 
when confronted by men who demand their rights. 

The heat on that occasion was more intense than any 
I had ever experienced, the crowd was one sweltering 
mass of humanity. Many fainted dead away and had to 
be removed by passing them over the heads of the 
standing multitude, as there was no other way of getting 
them out. At last, after standing for many hours in 
one spot so tightly wedged in that we could neither go 
forward or return to the open air, we heard in the dis- 
tance the faint echoes of martial music, we then knew 
the ceremonies had commenced. Soon a vanguard of 
buglers came up the spacious aisle. This was followed 
by a large concourse of ecclesiastical dignitaries from all 
parts of the world, dressed in their rich flowing robes as 
various as the different orders to which they belonged. 
The officers of the Papal household in their red and gold 
uniforms uniquely grand, preceded and surrounded the 
Sedia Gestatoria on which the Pope was seated. This 
was carried on the shoulders of picked men from the 
Papal guard. 

As I stood near the line of procession I was en- 
abled to observe His Holiness very closely, and no- 
ticed especially that he looked like a man who was being 
brought to the coronation against his will. He appeared 
worn; tired and even sad, as many remarked who stood 
near me. Pius X, is a fine looking man with a noble, 
fatherly expression which was even emphasized by his 
apparent sadness. 

The ceremonies were grand, but so long and tedious 
that every one connected with them seemed almost pros- 
trated. We poor plebeians who had to stand stock still 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 61 

in one spot for seven long hours were just able to make 
our way out when all was over, our strength was so 
nearly gone. Without exaggeration I can say I per- 
spired so freely during the whole time that my clothing 
was wet through and through so thoroughly that the 
perspiration dripped from the edges of my coat. If any 
one ever was in a greater sweat than that, I have never 
heard of it. 

When I got safely out I hailed a cab and was driven 
rapidly back to my hotel. The day was very hot but 
when we entered a narrow street which was shaded by 
the tall houses, I felt a chill that caused me to fear that 
I had contracted some fever or serious illness. Arriv- 
ing at the hotel, I immediately went to my rooms and 
made an entire change of clothing. That which I took 
off was hung on the balcony in the blazing sun where 
it remained for many hours before it was fully dried, 
which goes to show that my process of perspiration was 
a complete success. 

THE CAMPO SANTO OF GENOA 

Most of the large cities in Middle and Northern Italy 
take great pride in their Campo Santos or cemeteries as 
we call them. When in Milan I took a carriage and rode 
out to their cemetery which is one of the most beautiful 
cities of the dead in existence. Some of the mausoleums 
which are of the finest marble are as large as ordinary 
chapels. Their architecture is most elaborate and must 
have cost fabulous sums of money and many years of 
labor. I whiled away several meditative hours as I 
walked along the graveled walks, bordered on either side 



62 INCIDENTS OF 

with snow white monuments of various and costly de- 
signs. 

It is my present purpose, however, to devote a few 
words to the Campo Santo of Genoa. As grand as are all 
others in Italy, this is by far the most famous. It is 
known throughout the civilized world. No tourist of 
taste and refinement ever thinks of visiting Genoa with- 
out seeing this wonderfully artistic resting place of the 
dead. 

The works of art^ with which it is adorned, far sur- 
pass, in my estimation, many of the ''old masters" that 
finical people go wild over. 

I have never seen this cemetery described in any works 
on Italy, and am sure many writers feel as I do, and are 
fully aware that any attempt to do it justice would end 
in total failure. This great mortuary plain of many 
acres is enclosed by a covered collonade some twenty- 
five feet high, and fifteen feet deep. Under its pro- 
tecting roof are the tombs of the wealthier families of 
Genoa. In the open space are buried the humble people. 

In the center of this quadrangle is a large chapel of 
most elaborate design. As we passed through its marble 
halls where many of the illustrious sons of the nation 
rest sepulchered in costly sarcophagi, we reflected on the 
enduring affection which prompted such grand and last- 
ing memorials for departed friends. 

MASTERPIECES OF ART 

Under the collonade are many tombs, ornamented with 
statuary which might be called photographs in marble, 
so lifelike and true to nature are they. I have seen 
sculpture in Rome, Venice, Florence, Naples and other 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 63 

cities, but never yet have beheld anything to surpass the 
wonderful work of the artist as shown here. The "old 
masters" never accomplished anything more perfect or 
more true to Nature. The choice of commemorative sub- 
jects is most appropriate. I was so entranced with the 
grandeur of those monuments that I resolved to take ad- 
vantage of the occasion and secure a few photographs. 
There were so many beautiful scenes it was difficult to 
make a choice. During my first attempts to take a picture 
I came near meeting with a serious accident. In ordei to 
get the proper view of a tomb on which was represented 
an angel in flight, I was obliged to climb a high balus- 
trade. In trying to reach the top I accidently dislodged 
some vases and other ornaments which went tumbling 
to the floor and came near striking me. If they had, I 
would have gone down also and I am sure the result 
would have been serious, as I had almost reached the top 
of an arch. The falling ornaments made quite a racket 
and I was afraid of a reprimand or something worse 
from the authorities, but as good luck would have it 
none of the guardians was around that vicinity just 
then. Looking about me to make sure I would not be 
arrested, I hurriedly gathered up the fragments of the 
broken vases and replaced them as quickly and as care- 
fully as circumstances would allow and then resumed 
my walk as if nothing had happened. 

In my next attempt to take a photograph I was more 
successful, which gave me courage to continue until I 
had secured several fine views which I value very highly, 
as they represent examples of the highest art displayed 
there. 

One beautiful memorial that especially arrested my 



64 INCIDENTS OF 

attention represented an angel standing in the attitude 
of a guardian on the top of the tomb. His hands are 
resting on the hilt of a sword, the point of which is 
near his feet. Dressed in a military tunic over which is 
a long cloak, he stands there as one ever ready to pro- 
tect the occupant of the tomb beneath him. Under- 
neath are the words: 

''Posuerunt me Custodem." 
They have placed me on guard. 

Could any mute representation or inscription be more 
inspiring or afford greater consolation to the sorrowing 
relatives when they make their frequent visits and cast 
flowers of affection around the silent home of the de- 
parted ? 

Another tomb represents a casket in which lie the re- 
mains of a fond husband and father. It rests on an 
ornamented dais. Beside this stands a figure of the 
Saviour in an attitude of blessing; one hand stretching 
over the departed and the other above the sorrowing 
wife who kneels on the steps below. All this is of life 
size and carved from the purest Carrara marble. 

One tomb which arrested my attention, and the photo- 
graphing of which nearly caused my downfall, is perhaps 
the most exquisite yet in point of art. It represents an 
angel flying up from a cloud, supporting a happy soul 
just liberated from its corporeal temple. Its flight is 
apparently onward and upward. The two life size figures 
and the clouds are carved from one piece of snowwhite 
marble and is a triumph of the sculptor's art. Engrav- 
ings in this book, taken from photographs secured by 
me in the Campo Santo, will perhaps give a better idea 
of those works of art than any other description. 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 65 

SNEERING JAYS 

It is often pitiful to read the vaporings of some prej- 
udiced scribblers who try to belittle and find fault with 
everything they cannot comprehend. They feel it their 
duty to exhibit their boorishness and ignorance whenever 
and wherever they can. Their actions are often more 
disgusting than their faultfinding. Even within the 
sacred precincts of this hallowed ground I noticed a 
shoddy tourist pointing the finger of ridicule to a group 
of statuary on a tomb and with derisive remarks trying 
to amuse the crowd. When he thought he had made a 
hit, he put up a grin that would do credit to a Madagas- 
car monkey and the females of the crowd giggled effus- 
ively. 

Such exhibitions are often seen in churches, even when 
Divine service is being held. The tourist will often 
meet those itinerant specimens of ignorance and bad 
breeding in the beaten track of travel all over Europe. 
They are as pestiferous as the sparrows that soil our 
homes and annoy us with their chirpings. 

HEAD OF JOHN THE BAPTIST 

On the way back from the Campo Santo we stopped at 
a church where the head of John the Baptist is said to 
be preserved. We entered, gave the attendant his fee 
and were shown down the aisle as far as the sanctuary. 
He told us the relic was in a casket at the rear of the 
altar, and said I could go in to see it, but that Mrs. 
Doyle must remain outside, as no women were allowed 
that privilege. I at first could not imagine the cause 
of this restriction, but a moment's reflection brought to 



66 INCIDENTS OF 

mind that it was a woman who requested the beheading 
of the saint. Why this should bar Christian members 
of her sex for all time from paying due respect to his 
remains, I am at a loss to know. 

To refresh the minds of my readers, the story of the 
tragedy is here repeated : 

In the XlVth Chapter of the Gospel of St. Matthew 
we see it thus recorded: 

"At that time Herod the tetrach heard of the fame of 
Jesus. 

And he said unto his servants, This is John the Bap- 
tist; he is risen from the dead; and therefore mighty 
works do shew forth themselves in him. 

For Herod had laid hold on John, and bound him, 
and put him in prison for Herodias' sake, his brother 
Philip's wife. 

For John said unto him. It is not lawful for thee to 
have her. 

And when he would have put him to death, he feared 
the multitude, because they counted him as a prophet. 

But when Herod's birthday was kept, the daughter of 
Herodias (Salome) danced before them, and pleased 
Herod. 

Whereupon he promised with an oath to give her 
whatsoever she would ask. 

And she, being before instructed of her mother, said. 
Give me here John the Baptist's head in a charger. 

And the King was sorry, nevertheless for the oath's 
sake, and them that sat with him at meat, he commanded 
it to be given her. 

And he sent, and beheaded John in the prison. 

And his head was brought in a charger, and given to 
the damsel : and she brought it to her mother. 

It is very evident that the dances of Salome, as prac- 
ticed nowadays, had their origin in this tragic event. 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 67 

They are exhibitions however that do no credit to good 
taste, and represent nothing laudable. If they wish to 
celebrate the murder of the Baptist and justify Herod's 
infamous and cowardly act, their salacious performances 
are deplorably successful in pleasing the rabble. 

A SUDDEN TRANSFORMATION 

As we were about to enter the train that left Genoa 
for Rome in the evening, I was approached by a tall, 
swarthy looking beggar, who with outstretched hand 
and whining voice appealed for alms. He was on 
crutches. One leg, swathed in bandages made of old 
carpet, was drawn up under him in such a manner that 
it made him the most helpless looking cripple I had yet 
seen. His pitiful appeal was so effective that I gave him 
a few soldis and entered the car. 

The preliminaries for starting the train were so many 
and so tedious that it would have been very monotonous 
to sit there, were it not for the various incidents that 
made us forget the long delay. One little girl came up 
to us and tried to sell trinkets she carried in a basket. 
She was at a loss to know our nationality and asked us 
first in Italian, then in French and finally in German 
what we were. At last, thinking she had solved the 
question, she giggled out, "Oh no fly on you, you Yan- 
kee." We were so pleased with the enterprising perse- 
verance of the little itinerant merchant that we made a 
few small purchases when she gaily tripped away to 
make more sales. 

Soon after she left us we heard a great noise in the 
station as if a sudden riot had started up. Men were 
shouting, women screaming and children crying. I step- 



68 INCIDENTS OF 

ped out to the door of the car to learn, if possible, what 
the whole uproar was about. It appears a mad dog had 
entered the station and was howling, running about and 
trying to bite everybody he met. Pandemonium pre- 
vailed and all were rushing to a place of safety, regard- 
less of the route they took. Some fled out the doors, 
knocking down all incomers, others dashed through the 
windows whether open or not. Many tried to enter the 
cars for safety, but were barred out by the trainmen. As 
the car doors were shut, I went back to my seat and 
viewed the frenzied people from the window, which I 
considered safer than the platform. 

As I was watching the frenzied crowd fleeing past, 
I recognized one prominent member thereof. And whom 
do you suppose it was ! Why no less a personage than 
my old friend the beggar who had, but a few moments 
before, received from me a few soldis on account of his 
crippled condition. Well! If you believe me, he was 
on the dead run also, holding both crutches high in the 
air, with the old carpet flying like a streamer from his 
"useless" leg. Keeping well to the front, he was sprint- 
ing like a greyhound and yelling like a loon. 

After that exhibition of practical duplicity on the part 
of Italian beggars, I was more discriminating with my 
eleemosynary disbursements. 



Ill 
PARIS 

THIS, our third voyage across the Atlantic, would 
have been as pleasant as could be desired had it 
not been for an unusual amount of sea-sickness 
among the passengers. By the way, I have never been a 
victim of mal de mer, for which I am very thankful, as 
those who are prone to it tell me it is one of the most 
distressing ailments that can befall a helpless mortal. 
Our vessel, the largest of the French line and one of the 
most gorgeous that floats, had an ugly habit of rolling, 
even in a calm sea, which became more pronounced as 
the coal was used up, making her top heavy. This un- 
steadiness provokingly roiled stomachs and soured the 
temper of nearly every one on board. 

Among our people we had thirteen doctors who sailed 
from New York on the thirteenth of July, and one of 
them had thirteen United States express checks with him. 
Now if the number thirteen has heretofore had such a 
reputation for bad luck I think it fully redeemed itself 
on this occasion, as all safely reached their destination. 

The bustle and hurry attendant upon our landing at 
Havre was enhanced by copious showers that freely 
came down on the devoted heads of all alike without 
reference to "present status or previous condition." 
However when once comfortably seated in the elegant 
cars of the Western Railway of France we felt we were 



70 INCIDENTS OF 

free from the rolling waves of Old Ocean and the un- 
welcome attentions of Jupiter Pluvius. 

As we rode swiftly along through beautiful Normandy 
we could not help but admire the taste and thrift of the 
French farmer. Not a foot of ground is allowed to go 
to waste and every available spot is cultivated with the 
greatest care. No unsightly barnyards are to be seen. 
No neglected fences, dilapidated sheds or manure heaps 
mar the face of the landscape. On every hand are to be 
seen evidences of taste, industry and hygiene that might 
afford fruitful lessons for some of our American farmers. 

A five hours' ride brought us to Paris. Long before 
reaching our destination the great Eiffel Tower loomed 
up before our vision. Near its summit we discovered a 
balloon hovering around, as if to light on the top of the 
highest structure on earth. Along the road we saw 
French rural life in all its phases. Although it was Sun- 
day, men and women were working in the fields and even 
gay horse races were going on at one point we passed. 
The farmers do not plant as we do in America. Instead 
of one crop in a four acre lot they will seed down perhaps 
ten or fifteen varieties in sections. The artistic effect 
on the landscape is magnificent; the different colors re- 
sulting greatly enhance the beauty of the surrounding 
country and make it as charming as historic Eden. The 
little rural homes with their whitewashed walls and red 
tiled roofs dot the hills, plains and valleys in profusion 
and afford a brilliant contrast to the green fields that is 
really comforting to the beholder. 

An hour more brought us to the end of our journey 
and with it a clear sky and sunshine that lit up the most 
beautiful city on earth. We stopped at the Hotel Con- 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 71 

tinental. Here we were agreeably surprised to meet N. 
G. Peters and M. Nickels of Syracuse who came by way 
of Cherbourg. This hotel is a great rendezvous for 
American travelers and is crowded to its utmost capacity 
during the entire season. Facing the Tuileries Gardens 
it takes in a whole square and is surrounded by the Rue 
Rivoli, Rue Castiglioni, Rue Cambon and the Rue 
St. Honore. It is one of the best and largest in 
Paris, a perfect palace in itself and is so complete 
in its appointments that a full description of it might 
seem almost fabulous. It contains 650 rooms, all 
sumptuously arranged and equipped for the comfort of 
guests. It is six stories high and each floor is furnished 
with all the modern improvements. The building is fire- 
proof, being constructed of iron and stone. The guests 
average 500 daily and there are accommodations for more 
than 800. As we were sitting at the table in the large 
dining room Mrs. Doyle called my attention to "Our 
Chauncey" Depew sitting at the next table. She had 
never seen him but suspected it was he from the many 
newspaper pictures of his unique profile. I confirmed 
her suppositions as I had met him in Syracuse. He hur- 
riedly finished his dinner and rushed to a cab that was 
waiting at the door without waiting to chat with people 
wanting to speak to him. He must have been in a great 
hurry to catch his boat. 

I met an Egyptian who is stopping at this hotel. He is 
an immense man about six feet six inches in height and 
speaks French fluently. He told me it was not a very 
rare sight to meet men in his country eight feet tall. 
Such men would make a good company for Major Auer's 
battery. The brother of the Khedive is here, and Counts 



72 INCIDENTS OF 

and Countesses are as plentiful as mushrooms in the fer- 
tile pastures of old Ireland. 

UP IN A BALLOON 

In order to have a good, general view of Paris before 
we saw it in detail, Mrs. Doyle and I went out to 
the Esplanade in the Place du Concord and arranged for 
a ride in a big balloon that was about to set sail for the 
upper regions. After being carefully stowed away in 
the car, or basket, we were ready to assume chances 
with four or five others who took passage with us. All 
being ready, the ropes were cut and away we went flying 
to the clouds. As we ascended, the sensation was not 
tlfat of rising but of the earth receding from us. No 
sense of motion could be perceived and everything was 
ominously still, except the conversation of passen- 
gers who constantly expatiated on the novelty of the 
situation. We were soon looking down on Paris which 
seemed like a mammoth map unrolled for our inspection. 
We floated far above the Eiffel Tower, the church spires 
and the lofty, gold-plated dome of the Invalides, which 
brilliantly reflected the rays of the morning sun. In the 
streets below, the cars and carriages moving about, 
seemed like mere toys and persons walking along the 
boulevards appeared like tiny microbes. We noticed a 
race course in the suburbs on which the sports were hold- 
ing high carnival. The fast running horses, which 
looked like mere cockroaches, appeared to move so slowly 
around that speed did not seem to be the object of their 
ambition. 

After sailing around among the clouds for over an 
hour, with Paris many thousand feet below us, we de- 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 73 

cided to return to terra firma, as we saw a thunder cloud 
rapidly approaching us from the direction of Mount Val- 
erian. The aeronaut pulled the valve and we began to 
descend rapidly ; rather too much so, as the great velocity 
alarmed the timid portion of the party. We reached the 
earth none too soon, however, as a copious shower over- 
took and drenched us well as we stepped forth from the 
car. 

TOMB OF NAPOLEON 

The Hotel des Invalides is a home for old soldiers. 
It at one time contained as many as five thousand pen- 
sioners but at present only a few hundred are there. At- 
tached to this is the church of St. Louis, a beautiful struc- 
ture. Here lies entombed the body of Napoleon I. The 
sarcophagus, in which the remains of the illustrious gen- 
eral repose, is made of a single block of dark colored 
marble highly polished. It rests on an ornamental base 
in the center of a deep circular opening in the floor of 
the church. It is surrounded by flags, banners and other 
trophies captured by Napoleon in his various campaigns. 
The flags are tattered, torn and discolored, showing the 
results of war and the ravages of time. Old soldiers and 
pensioners fairly swarm around the place and annoy vis- 
itors with their repeated requests for money. Some of 
them are so persistent that they cannot be shaken off, ex- 
cept by acceding to their demands which are often ac- 
companied by impudence. 

THE PANTHEON 

The church of St. Genevieve, now known as the Pan- 
theon, a splendid specimen of architecture, with its great 
dome and monolithic columns, presents an imposing ap- 



74 INCIDENTS OF 

pearance. It has been used for civil, military and re- 
ligious purposes in succession. I ascended to the top of 
its dome and obtained a magnificent view of the sur- 
roundings. By the way, this dome is so constructed that 
no wood or iron enters into its makeup. It is a com- 
plete shell of stone, the blocks being so closely joined 
that it appears as one homogeneous mass. In the crypt 
are to be seen the tombs of Soufflet, Rosseau, Voltaire 
and other world wide celebrities. As we were going 
through the basement our guide sang out in a loud tone 
to test its echoing properties which are very pronounced 
indeed, ten or twelve repetitions of his voice being heard 
as coming from different parts of the crypt. In the 
chapel, at the rear, is to be seen the tomb of St. Gene- 
vieve, the patroness of Paris. Mrs. Doyle and myself 
visited this shrine which is of magnificent proportions and 
is profusely ornamented with appropriate emblems and 
enriched with votive offerings of the faithful. 

Versailles, a suburb of Paris, contains the palaces of 
the former Kings and Emperors of France. The gardens 
with their enormous fountains and beautiful statuary 
cannot be adequately described. They must be seen in 
order to fully appreciate their splendor. In company 
with Mr. Nickels and Mr. Peters we made a tour of the 
gardens and palaces through which we were conducted 
by an experienced guide. 

A WONDERFUL YANKEE 

While walking through one of the large picture gal- 
leries, know as the Hall of Battles, we noticed a fellow 
strutting about among the crowd with a small American 
flag pinned to the lapel of his coat. It was of silk and 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 75 

about the size of a pocket handkerchief. He roughly 
pushed his way about and among the throngs of visit- 
ors, flaunting it in their faces and trying to make him- 
self conspicuous. He had a far off look and defiant man- 
ner that reminded me of my school days, when some big, 
uncouth bully among the boys would march about with a 
chip on his shoulder as a challenge for a fight. What 
this fellow's object was I could not imagine, unless he 
was trying to personify America challenging France. 
No one seemed to pay any attention to him except to 
storm him with contemptuous looks and to regale his as- 
sinine ears with derisive remarks. I wonder some one 
did not trip him up or tweak his rubicund proboscis. If a 
Frenchman were to be seen marching through the 
Capitol halls at Washington flaunting his country's flag 
in the faces of our citizens, I am inclined to think that 
some lusty son of Uncle Sam might so far lose his temper 
as to make the fellow dance a Virginia reel. This in- 
cident is only a specimen of the many indiscretions we 
noticed among American tourists of the shoddy variety. 
Some cannot behave themselves even in the churches 
when Divine worship is being held but feel that they must 
make themselves ridiculously conspicuous, otherwise peo- 
ple might not be aware of their self constituted import- 
ance. What a contrast between this impudent flag- 
flaunter and Mr. Nickels, our companion. The former 
an impertinent bully, who, no doubt, would flee at the 
sound of a firecracker in the enemy's camp ; the latter a 
veteran soldier of the German army and one of the 
victorious thousands who conquered the defenders of 
Paris. Our fellow townsman, crowned by faithful ser- 
vices for his country, walked through the throngs of the 



16 INCIDENTS OF 

vanquished, treating all with respect and even showing a 
reverence for the magnificent relics of bygone power and 
glory. N. G. Peters was delighted beyond measure, es- 
pecially with the magnificent gardens and proved himself 
an able historian, frequently recounting remarkable in- 
cidents that took place in various parts of this celebrated 
locality. He with Mr. Nickels made good foregrounds 
for my photographs of the great fountains and monu- 
ments. 

NOTRE DAME 

Notre Dame, the metropolitan church of Paris, is no- 
where surpassed in architectural grandeur. Its interior 
decorations defy adequate description. Its grand nave 
and forest of marble columns, lit up by most elaborately 
stained windows, liken the whole vast interior to a ver- 
itable paradise. In the treasury of the church are kept 
the sacred vessels of past ages and relics of many a 
martyred saint and confessor. The blood-stained vest- 
ments of the archbishop of Paris, who was murdered by 
the commune in 1871, are also here. These sacred relics 
were shown us by the sacristan. 

THE MADELEIN 

The Madelein, where we attended High Mass last Sun- 
day, appears more like a Greek temple than a Catholic 
church. It is rather plain on the exterior but is some- 
what relieved by fluted columns which support the roof 
and surround the entire edifice. It is lighted only by 
large circular windows in the roof. The effect is grand, 
however, and I wonder more churches are not built like 
this. 

From the sky pours down a flood of mellow light that, 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 17 

to my mind, far surpasses the "dim religious light" we 
read about and which too frequently makes gloomy our 
churches in America. 

A beautiful custom not observed in our churches pre- 
vails here. During the Mass, and just before the conse- 
cration, a procession of altar boys marches from the 
vestry into the sanctuary bearing on their shoulders 
beautifully ornamented frames, somewhat resembling 
that on which the sedia gestatoria of the Pope is carried. 
On these rest baskets containing tiny loaves of bread. 
They are blest by the celebrant and then passed around 
among the congregation. Each member takes one and 
consumes it as a solemn memorial of the real communion 
that is about to take place. 

In this church the attendants or guards are dressed in 
the most magnificent military fashion; their uniforms 
surpassing in richness and elegance anything I have ever 
seen in America. Ladies pass down the aisles and take 
up the collections. 

The relics of St. Mary Magdalen, which could be 
plainly seen from our seat, were exposed to view during 
the services. They consisted of some bones of the limbs 
and a portion of her hair, all in a good state of preserva- 
tion. 

The priests of Paris always wear their cassocks in the 
streets and with their broad-brimmed hats are frequently 
met hurrying along in the pursuit of their sacred call- 
ing. The reverence that is shown them is particularly 
noticeable, many people taking off their hats as they 
pass by. 

Funerals are conducted here in a manner to call forth 
respect and veneration for the departed. Instead of a 



78 INCIDENTS OF 

hearse, so called, the casket is placed in a large convey- 
ance resembling a chariot which is drawn by four black 
horses. It is ornamented in the most tasteful and appro- 
priate manner and is nearly hidden from view with a 
profusion of wreaths of natural flowers. Relatives and 
friends follow it in mourning chariots also drawn by 
somber colored steeds. These are followed by a proces- 
sion of immediate friends and neighbors on foot, the 
mourners bringing up the rear, riding in black funeral 
omnibuses. The hurrying vehicles of the street, trams, 
carriages, cabs, etc., halt until the solemn procession shall 
have passed. Every citizen in the vicinity stops and 
respectfully raises his hat. 

I notice the Sisters of Charity go about on their daily 
missions unattended by children or even one of their 
order. They are held in such reverence that it would be 
a penal offence to show one of them the least impolite- 
ness. 

FROM A DROP OF OIL TO A TRAGEDY 

One pleasant afternoon I was taking dinner, or table 
d'hote as they call it in French, at the Hotel des Em- 
pereurs in Paris when an interesting and unusual occur- 
rence took place. A brisk walk through the Boulevard 
des Capuchins had accentuated my appetite, and that I 
might better enjoy a good meal, I began to prepare some 
salad. I poured out on my plate what I supposed was 
vinegar, but which proved to be the clearest of olive oil. 
Discovering my mistake, I called the steward to remove 
it. With a grand flourish, the garcon seized the plate, but 
it slipped from his nimble fingers, its contents landing on 
the gentleman sitting at my left. His head was gener- 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 79 

ously anointed and his beautiful broadcloth suit was given 
a glittering gloss by the oleaginous fluid. The cyclonic 
waiter was profuse and earnest with his apologies. The 
victim of the "faux pas" would however accept no 
apology, and naturally became very angry and strongly 
protested, in vigorous language, against such inexcusable 
carelessness. He also demanded full payment for his 
ruined clothes. The excitement in the dining room, at 
this stage of the affair, became intense. Appetites were 
forgotten, many arose to their feet and loudly proclaimed 
their ideas in reference to the mishap, until the confusion 
became so uproarious that I began to fear for the con- 
sequences. Being the innocent cause of all the uproar I 
made a few timely remarks in my endeavor to quell the 
rising storm. Many supplementary explanations and 
promises were made by the crestfallen waiter, and all was 
once more peaceful on the banks of the classic Seine. 

Many were the enquiries among the guests as to the 
cause of the commotion. A young man who had sat just 
beyond the anointed victim came over to me and, during 
a brief conversation, asked me if I were not a medical 
man. I was surprised at the question and enquired why 
he took me for a member of the profession, as I had 
in no way betrayed my calling by any remarks I might 
have made. I finally admitted that I was an humble dis- 
ciple of Aesculapius. He thereupon told me he was a 
medical student from Edinburg and that his name was 
Donald Newkirk. He was in Paris on an extended visit 
and would like to cultivate my acquaintance as he wished 
to learn something of the profession in America. Just 
here visions of confidence men and bunco steerers loomed 
up before me. However, as I was alone in a strange 



80 INCIDENTS OF 

land, I felt that a good companion, who knew something 
of the great city, might be desirable. Taking the risk 
and pleased with the proffered friendship I accepted an 
invitation to his room which was in the same hotel. 
While there he told me he spent the preceding summer in 
Paris and had an enjoyable time. On the present occas- 
ion he was very glad to make my acquaintance. He told 
me of a trip down the Mediterranean, last year, with his 
old friend Captain Horton on the steamship Frathie. He 
expected to go again in a few days. 

After telling me much of his experience during his 
former visit we went out to view the brillantly lighted 
boulevards of gay Paris. After a pleasant stroll through 
the festive throngs of the French metropolis we returned 
to our hotel. At the door we met Captain Horton of 
whom my new-found friend had spoken. I was, of 
course, introduced, after which we adjourned to the 
smoking room. I found the captain a very pleasant gen- 
tleman and well up in his duties as a mariner and in his 
knowledge of the Mediterranean countries. He re- 
minded Mr. Newkirk that they were to start on the mor- 
row for their trip down the Mediterranean, and also 
asked if I would accompany them. We were to be his 
guests and we could visit the principal cities along the 
coast. He and Mr. Newkirk strongly insisted on my 
going with them. I thanked the captain for his generous 
offer, telling him nothing would give me more pleasure 
than to visit the far-famed cities of the Mediterranean, 
and that I would gratefully accept, were it not that I 
had already bought my tickets for Rome, which city I 
must certainly visit, as it was the Mecca of my present 
pilgrimage. 






hd 



H 
K 
w 

n 

I— I 

H 
O 

o 




EUROPEAN TRAVEL 81 

When Mr. Newkirk saw that I could not go with them 
he also declined to go, telling the captain that he had be- 
come so much interested in and attached to his new-found 
American friend, and so much interested in his descrip- 
tion of customs in the New World, that he preferred to 
remain in Paris during his visit. The captain was sorely 
disappointed by this unexpected announcement and hav- 
ing failed, after oft repeated coaxing and promises of 
great enjoyment, to induce his friend to accompany him, 
he left the room with an air of sadness and disappoint- 
ment. 

Mr. Newkirk and I spent two very pleasant weeks in 
Paris after the departure of the captain. We visited all 
the important points in the great city. By the way I 
found I had met a polished gentleman in my chance ac- 
quaintance and a man well posted not only in the history 
and topography of Paris, but also in the profession of 
medicine. I regretfully parted from him the morning I 
left for Rome. 

After traveling through the principal countries of 
Europe I sailed for America on the steamship City of 
Brussels. On my arrival home, after fond greetings 
from my family and neighbors, my first duty was to look 
over my mail, which, during my three months' absence, 
had accumulated to immense proportions. A worn and 
well tied newspaper attracted my attention, and when 
opening it a premonition seemed to warn me that it con- 
tained important if not startling information. The open 
page revealed to me an article that told of a great storm 
on the Mediterranean and that the good ship Fraithe, 
with all on board, had gone to the bottom; Mr. New- 
kirk had sent me the paper from Edinburg. 



82 INCIDENTS OF 

I felt thankful that I had bought my tickets to Rome, 
and I am sure Donald Newkirk was more than pleased 
that I took oil instead of vinegar on my plate in the Hotel 
des Empereurs. 

"A pebble in the streamlet scant 

Hath turned the course of many a river 

A dewdrop on the baby plant 

Hath warped the giant oak forever." 

TIPPED THE WRONG MAN 

On the 6th day of August, 1889, we landed in Havre, 
after a pleasant voyage of eight days from New York, on 
the Steamship La Bretagne. Before saying any more of 
the voyage I must relate a circumstance that may be of 
some use to future travelers. Shortly after going on 
board we were assigned seats at the table and were soon 
called to dinner. When we were fairly seated a stew- 
ard approached and very politely asked us what part 
of the menu we desired. Before making our selection 
we both concluded it would be the proper thing to hand 
him his expected tip, so that we might properly be cared 
for on the voyage. We each handed him a five dollar 
gold piece and felt secure as to farther annoyance on that 
score. At the next meal we found, to our surprise, that 
a different steward had been appointed for our table. We 
could not quite understand this proceeding until we 
landed at Havre when the new steward approached us on 
the dock and asked for another tip. We realized that we 
had done our duty in the beginning of the trip and there- 
fore completely ignored his demands. The head stew- 
ard had no doubt witnessed our giving a tip on the first 
day out, and made up his mind he could work us for an- 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 83 

other, but he counted without his proper reckoning as we 
did not propose to be swindled into paying a second time. 
Moral: Never tip a steward in the beginning of a 
voyage if you wish good service. Delay that act of ben- 
evolence until the day before landing. My friend, Mr. 
Smith, was very much provoked at this gentle attempt 
at polite robbery and felt very sore over it for a long time. 
A peddler approached him on the dock and tried to sell 
him some Yankee notions, as we would call them in this 
country. After rattling off a string of voluble French in 
describing hi'S wares, Mr. Smith, who was never accused 
of speaking that language, said in response : "Polly want 
a cracker?" The peddler merely scowled and gently 
ambled away to try his luck on some other "Yanks." 

Among the many pleasant acquaintances we met on 
board La Bretagne was Haligalooly Hoola Gouhly Kahn, 
private secretary to His Royal Highness, the Shah of 
Persia. He could speak but very little English so I 
tried him in Latin and found him well up in that lan- 
guage, which he could speak fluently. That ancient 
tongue seemed to form a bond of friendship between 
us and we spent much of our time in conversation. He 
told me of the customs in his country and compared them 
with what he saw in other lands. We afterwards met the 
Shah in Paris where he was highly feted. Among the 
other notables we met there were Buffalo Bill and Nate 
Salisbury who were giving an exhibition. The Shah 
attended and was highly delighted with the antics of the 
natives of the "Wild West." 

THE FALL OF THE BASTILE 
When the centennial of the fall of the Bastile occurred 



84 INCIDENTS OF 

we were in mid ocean, and La Bretagne, being a French 
vessel, was given up to celebrating the close of the revo- 
lution. All on board took part. The ship was decorated 
with the national colors. Cannon boomed, rockets flew 
and general good cheer among the passengers prevailed. 
A banquet was given in the evening to all on board. 

After we landed in Havre we were delayed some four 
hours before proceeding to Paris. We availed ourselves 
of the opportunity to inspect the ancient town. The har- 
bor is one of the best in the world, but the city itself 
looks very ancient and much neglected. If one were i 

seeking antiquities he could find plenty of them there. 
Some of the buildings that have stood for centuries are 
far from being plumb and seem ready to topple over. 
Notwithstanding its ruins it is a handsome and interesting | 

old town. 

ON THE EIFFEL TOWER 

Our feet had no sooner touched the pavements of Paris 
than we hied ourselves off to the Exposition Grounds. 
The great tower, of course, received our first attention. 
Its base covers an area of two acres and it is nearly a ^ 

thousand feet high — the loftiest work ever constructed 1 

by man, not even excepting the tower of Babel, spoken 
of in the Bible. From the ground it looks like a huge 
monument of open crochet work, so artistically is the 
delicate looking steelwork interwoven. It is capable of 
holding ten thousand people on its different stages or 
landings. To ascend by the winding staircase would 
have given us an almost perpendicular walk of nearly two 
thousand feet. We therefore took the elevator and went 
flying to the top at a speed that made us imagine that if 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 85 

we continued long at that rate we would soon reach the 
silvery lining of the clouds. At the upper landing we 
looked down on magnificent Paris a thousand feet below, 
with its beautiful boulevards, avenues, historical shrines 
and palaces — a sight never to be forgotten, and surpassing 
the most extravagant imaginations of the "Arabian 
Nights." 

The display in the exhibition building is most elaborate. 
A mere catalogue of the different articles would fill a 
book larger than King James' Bible. I must mention 
a few however. The Gobelin tapestries surpass in bril- 
liant beauty the finest paintings I ever saw. They lack 
that glossiness of surface that is so often detrimental to 
an oil painting. They are woven by artists in the exhibi- 
tion buildings and, to give an idea of the labor expended 
upon them, it is considered a good day's work when one 
person completes six square inches of space. Some of 
the pieces cost as high as $10,000. A large diamond in 
the French jewelry exhibit attracted much attention. Its 
weight is 180 carats and is valued at $1,200,000. I 
thought some of bringing it home with me and perhaps 
would have done so were it not for the very heavy custom 
duties. 

A familiar sight that loomed up before us was an 
engine from the Straight Line Engine Company of Syra- 
cuse, N. Y. It was used in running Edison's electric 
display. An immense phonograph repeated music for 
us that was played by a band in New Jersey last Spring. 
The American display is very fine, the newspapers to the 
contrary notwithstanding. 

The habitations and modes of living of dififerent na- 
tions are represented in real life, the natives going 



86 INCIDENTS OF 

through their daily vocations as if they were on 
their native heaths. The palace of the Trocadero is filled 
with antiquities — relics, models, etc. A subterranean 
aquarium in its grounds is one of the wonders of the 
world. It is an artificial cavern made to represent an 
immense grotto, about two acres in extent, with cragged 
columns, stalactites and all the accessories of Nature her- 
self. In large recesses in the sides, lighted from above, 
are to be seen numberless varieties of the inhabitants of 
the sea from all parts of the world. 

In the evening a grand illumination of the fountains 
took place. Tens of thousands were awaiting in breath- 
less expectation for the great event. At precisely 9 p. m. 
the waters burst forth in a blaze of golden glory, the 
vast throng thundering forth in deafening huzzas which 
reverberated through the great plazas and up the river 
Seine. Imagine a shower of molten gold thrown up into 
the air 150 feet and every drop as bright as a diamond 
and you will have a faint idea of the magnificent spec- 
tacle. To vary the display, the colors of the illumination 
were made to alternately represent every hue of the rain- 
bow. The Eiffel Tower was illuminated, from base to 
top, with thousands of incandescent globes and from its 
summit search lights lit up the grounds and various parts 
of the city. 

IN THE BOIS DE BOLOUGNE 

Last Sunday we visited the Bois de Bolougne, the great 
park of the city. It was here that Napoleon III. first met 
Eugenie and fell in love with her on sight. Paris has a 
great number of parks but that of Bolougne is the most 
extensive of all. It is more like a vast forest, kept in the 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 87 

very best condition and ornamented with well paved 
roads, fountains, cascades, artificial lakes, etc. It con- 
tains a large zoological collection and the animals are as 
vigorous as if living in their native climes. A pond con- 
tained a number of huge seals which were as playful as 
kittens and would dart through the water and frequently 
climb rocks and leap a distance of twenty feet or more. 
An ostrich, harnessed to a wagon, drew people around 
the grounds. We hired one and rode about until we 
saw a pair of saddled camels when each of us took one 
and mounted it for a short ride. The swaying and 
awkward motion of the "ship of the desert" was very 
distressing to my spinal column and I hastily descended 
to earth. No more camel for my livery. 

We ascended the Arc de Triomph, the greatest tri- 
umphal arch in the world. It is 160 feet high and being 
on an eminence and at the convergence of twelve great 
avenues, commands the finest view of Paris. 

The French people's proverbial kindness and polite- 
ness has been fully illustrated during our sojourn among 
them. They seem to think that there is something to 
live for besides the hoarding up of the mighty dollar. 
They are cheerful and certainly know how to enjoy 
themselves at proper times and in proper places. Here 
a man or woman will often go far out of the way to as- 
sist you in finding a street or place; quite a contrast to 
the Bowery boy in New York that replied to a gentle- 
man who said he wished to go to Broadway: "Then 
why the deuce don't you go?" 

The cleanliness of the streets is almost incredible to 
those who have not been there. The pavements of the 
principal boulevards and avenues are either of hard wood 



88 INCIDENTS OF 

or asphalt, the former largely predominating. The pon- 
derous double-decked stages roll over them almost noise- 
lessly. Great drays with wheels almost ten feet in di- 
ameter, drawn by six or eight horses, seem to make no 
impression on these well laid pavements. 

Young and bare-headed women sell papers in the 
streets and yell out their wares quite vigorously. One 
great awkward fellow bleated out his latest editions with 
a voice so much like a yearling calf that I imagined I 
was very near a New York cattle train. He attracted 
much attention and sold many papers on the length and 
breadth of his startling bovine accent. 

King George of Greece is here and is receiving much 
attention. If we have time we will call upon him before 
leaving the city, because we understand he is very sensi- 
tive about being slighted. 

A BULL FIGHT IN PARIS. 

One bright morning while viewing the immense ex- 
panse of Parisian landscape from the top of the Eiffel 
Tower we noticed a large enclosure just outside the Ex- 
position grounds that we had not before heard of, al- 
though we had been in the city several days. After 
some enquiries we learned it was the Plaza de Toros 
where Spanish bull fights were held. Being of an en- 
quiring turn of mind and having heard so much of those 
unique exhibitions, we straightway set out for said Plaza 
and arrived just in time to secure good seats at the ring- 
side. 

The great enclosure was crowded with a miscellaneous 
and expectant throng, representing many nations, Spain 
being of course most in evidence. While waiting for the 



> 
< 

I— I 




EUROPEAN TRAVEL 89 

main event of the day we were entertained with dances 
given by Spanish Dons and Senoritas in true national 
style. The vim and natural grace with which they went 
through the various figures were truly inspiring. 
Dressed in their national costumes they represented a 
brilliant scene of Andalusian magnificence that surpassed 
anything of the kind ever witnessed before by us. 

The immense circular building of wood and stone 
formed a large amphitheatre capable of holding many 
thousands. The seats were arranged in tiers rising to 
the top where the private boxes were located. The arena 
itself is about a hundred feet in diameter and is enclosed 
by a strong wooden barrier about six feet high with a 
footrail two feet from the ground. This is to as- 
sist the torreros, when too closely pursued by the bull, to 
escape by a leap over the barrier to the passageway that 
extends around the ring between the inner enclosure and 
another somewhat higher that protects the audience. 

During one of the mad rushes of an enraged bull he 
leaped over the inner barrier and was making for the 
next one just in front of us. We also made a hurried 
scramble for the upper tiers, as we were sure that our 
time had come, and that a stunt not on the program, with 
us as the principals, was to be enacted. 

Having reached a place of safety near the top we cau- 
tiously looked back to see where the bull had gone. The 
torreros had driven him around the ring until a door was 
reached where he was allowed an exit. 

A bull fight is one of the most cruel and revolting 
spectacles I ever beheld. A harmless young animal 
fresh from the verdant pastures of his native heath is 
driven into an arena and surrounded by armed men ready 



90 INCIDENTS OF 

to torture him. He has no possible chance to success- 
fully defend himself against overwhelming odds that face 
him. Prodded with spears, enraged by tantalizing tor- 
reros with no chance to prove his prowess, he goes down 
to an ignominious death. 

The horses that bear the captains are also helpless, as 
they are blindfolded, which cuts off all chance of escape 
from the maddened bulls as they are ruthlessly ripped 
to pieces by the horns of the frenzied victims of the un- 
holy "sport." 

All in all it was the most brutal exhibition I ever be- 
held and when it was over I rebuked myself for having 
been a spectator. I would go into the details of this 
revolting spectacle were it not that I fear my readers 
would become as disgusted at the description as I was at 
the reality. No such acts of cruelty were ever before 
witnessed by me and I hope never again to even hear of 
them. * 



IV 

STORY-TELLING ON BOARD SHIP 

AMONG the passengers I met on board the steam- 
ship Hohenzollern was an old gentleman whose 
general appearance and conversation indicated a 
person of culture and prominence. He was tall, well built 
and vigorous for a man of his age, being along in the 
sixties. His silvery white hair and imposing mustache, 
which oramented his classic features, gave him a military 
air which well suited his general makeup. Accompany- 
ing him was his wife, a handsome lady, at least ten years 
his junior. As they walked to and fro on the promenade 
deck many were the compliments paid them by the pas- 
sengers, some of whom almost seemed to envy their 
happiness. The lady was of that dignified type of 
matronly beauty that indicated a French ancestry and 
aristocratic lineage. 

I resolved, if opportunity presented itself, that I would 
make the acquaintance of that dignified stranger, as I 
was sure, if I could meet him socially, I would find a 
fellow passenger who would enhance the pleasure of the 
voyage. The next day, as I was enjoying a postprandial 
cigar in the smoking room, who should enter, with many 
others, but the very same gentleman who had attracted 
my attention the day before. He sat down in a corner of 
the room and pulling out a large, black Havana leisurely 
lit it and, while smoking, read a magazine which seemed 
to interest him very much. 



92 INCIDENTS OF 

My long-wished-for opportunity had now come and, 
as soon as he finished his reading, I walked over to him 
and, to break the ice, made some enquiries as to the 
probable time of our arrival at' Naples. He graciously 
gave me his estimate and at the same time asked my 
opinion on the same subject. Inviting me to be seated 
we soon found ourselves engaged in an interesting con- 
versation on various subjects. 

After we had, for some time, talked on several topics 
of interest, I noticed that he was of an enquiring turn of 
mind. He asked many questions as to my home, my 
destination and my future plans. I told him where I 
lived and where I was going. As to the future I could 
not definitely answer, only that I intended, on my return 
home, to absolutely retire from the practice of my pro- 
fession and take life easy for the remainder of my days. 
He asked what my profession was. I told him I had 
been practicing medicine and surgery for a great many 
years and I thought it was about time that I should take 
a well earned rest. He fully agreed with me and volun- 
teered the information that he was also a physician. 

This announcement seemed to arouse a spirit of friend- 
ship and confidence, so characteristic of the better class 
of the medical profession. Just at this juncture the 
famous advice of Polonius to his son Laertes came to 
mind and, as I pondered it over, wondered if it were 
not prudence on my part to go slowly on a chance 
acquaintance with a perfect stranger, and mentally re- 
called these famous lines: 

"Look thou character. Give thj'- thoughts no tongue 
Nor any unproportioned thought his act." 

With all this Shakespearean advice before me I vent- 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 93 

ured, step by step, to give him a brief outline of my 
career from boyhood days to the ending of my profess- 
ional career. He listened to me with the most earnest 
attention, frequently asking for details, when he thought 
the narrative too general. At times I noticed he was 
profoundly impressed and even sad. I was convinced 
he was a man of deep thought and sincerity. Often he 
would give me an enquiring look with his piercing dark 
eyes which made me feel that there might possibly be 
something in common between us in the dispensations of 
Providence. 

After I had briefly narrated the principal incidents of 
my professional career he was so interested that he vol- 
unteered to relate some experiences and difficulties 
encountered during his eventful life. He remarked 
before commencing his recital that as we had several 
days before us on the sea, we could not better or more 
interestingly pass the time than in comparing notes. I 
fully agreed with him and will now let him tell his story 
in his own words : 

THE STORY OF THE STRANGER 
"I was born in a distant land", said he, "and when 
very young, went to the United States with my parents. 
They were in moderate circumstances, my father having 
been deprived of an ample fortune by avaricious and 
scheming relatives. Nevertheless, with his young wife, 
who was said to be the handsomest woman in her village 
home, and me his only child, he set sail for the land of 
the West, the haven of the persecuted and the home of 
the exile, where he hoped to recommence the struggle of 
life. He was a man of fine physique and endowed with 
a splendid education. These qualifications were now his 



94 INCIDENTS OF 

main reliance and with a right good will did he make use 
of them. He was not long in the land of his adoption 
before he found himself engaged in a pleasant and profit- 
able occupation. By industry and perseverance he was 
soon enabled to engage in business on his own account. 
In this he prospered sufficiently to support his family. 

"After a few years seven children, of whom I was the 
eldest, claimed his paternal protection, and right here and 
now I affectionately claim that no better father and 
mother were ever blessed with the happy responsibilities 
of rearing a family. 

"As I was the firstborn, my good mother, in the fullness 
of her religious enthusiasm, selected me as her gift to the 
Church she loved so well. I was therefore educated with 
a view of entering the ministry. As time went on, my 
preparatory studies had so far progressed that I was sent 
to college. Here I remained for nearly four years, 
going through the curriculum and keeping well to the 
front in my studies. Overstudy however soon began to 
tell on my health and I became so emaciated and anae- 
mic that my friends began to fear consumption had 
claimed me. On the advice of my physician I was about 
to return home for a few weeks' rest and recuperation 
when a most distressing accident occurred to me by which 
I nearly lost the sight of both my eyes. I was standing 
on the Campus one thawing day in winter, talking to 
one of the professors who was watching the boys snow- 
balling. Without warning I was struck full in the face 
by a solid, wet snowball, forcibly thrown by one of the 
careless students. The impact of the violent blow threw 
me to the ground and completely blinded me. I became 
helpless and suffered agonies indescribable. Nothing 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 95 

could be done at the college to relieve my agony and I 
was immediately hurried off to a hospital in a nearby 
city. There it was thought that my sight was perman- 
ently destroyed. With skillful care on the part of the 
doctors, and good nursing by the devoted Sisters of 
Charity, I partially recovered, after many long and tedi- 
ous months of suffering. 

"After my return home from the hospital I was for a 
long time a helpless invalid and my poor dear mother 
wept many bitter tears for my misfortunes. Her hopes 
of my ever reaching the zenith of her highest ambitions 
were practically blotted out. Between my sufferings 
and sorrow for her, my young life was anything but 
pleasant for the two years I was forced to spend in com- 
parative idleness. My eyes were so weak that I could 
not improve myself much by reading or any kind of 
study so I was obliged to succumb to the inevitable. 

"Finally tiring of a life of idleness and dependence on 
my indulgent parents, I resolved to make an effort in the 
direction of self support. Consulting my physician, I 
was told that life in the ministry, on account of its de- 
mands as a preacher, writing sermons, etc., would never 
do for me in my weakened condition and that my eyes 
would not endure the strain. He was a friend of the 
family and, after deliberation with us, gave it as his opin- 
ion, if I wished to follow a profession, that of medicine 
would be the proper one for me, as it was less of a strain 
on the nerves and gave more insight to the ailments of 
the body, which I at that particular time was so much in 
need of. Moreover he said that as I was so well up in 
the classics it would be a pity to enter some calling which 
did not need such accomplishments. 



96 INCIDENTS OF 

"I felt that now I was really obliged to commence the 
great struggle of life. 

"With the disappointment of my parents weighing 
heavily on my mind, and a frail constitution, I fully real- 
ized that difficulties almost insurmountable, were before 
me. Being anxious to obtain a professional education, 
I entered the office of our old friend, the family physi- 
cian. He was very kind and on account of my im- 
paired health and the weakness of my eyes, often warned 
me not to devote too much time to close study, especially 
by artificial light, which by the way was very distressing 
to me. To supplement the knowledge that I might have 
obtained by more steady application to text books, he 
frequently took me with him on his daily rounds when 
making professional visits. Having a national reputa- 
tion, he was often called far from home, and if the case 
were instructive and interesting would take me with him. 
It is needless to say that I did not go as a consultant for 
I had as yet to learn the rudiments of the profession. 

"In this way I obtained a good deal of practical knowl- 
edge, even before I had fairly begun my studies. In his 
office he frequently gave practical instructions and dem- 
onstrated to me the most approved modes of treatment, 
when circumstances would permit. 

A SEVERE INITIATION 

"I remember one day when a man came in on crutches. 
He had suffered the loss of a leg. The doctor made an 
examination of the stump and found that one of the 
ligatures still remained, and made an effort to remove it, 
which caused the man so much pain that he writhed and 
screamed in agony. I was intently watching the pro- 




BRIDGE OF SIGHS IN VENICE 

"I stood in Venice on the Bridge of Sighs, a Palace and a Prison 
on either hand" 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 97 

ceedings until I became nauseated and the room seemed 
to go round and take on a fuliginous appearance. The 
next thing I knew I found myself lying on the broad of 
my back on the doctor's sofa, feeling the back of my head 
which was very sore with a big excresence on it about 
the size of a lump of chalk. 

"It appears that I fainted away at the unusual 
sight and had fallen, violently striking the floor with the 
back of my head. The doctor tenderly raised me up and 
placed me on the sofa where I found myself on return to 
consciousness. 

"My first expressions, when able to realize my sur- 
roundings, and the cause of my trouble were these : 'A 
fine candidate am I for the profession of surgery. This 
surely is a rough initiation. I think I had better look 
up some other business more suited to my frail condition 
and sympathetic nervous system.' 

"It is unnecessary to state that the doctor was aston- 
ished at the early and sudden collapse of his protege. 
With words of cheer and encouragement he told me to 
overlook and forget such a trivial mishap. I did not 
think it so trivial however as I nursed my sore head and 
rubbed down my aching joints. He told me a similar 
occurrence happened to him on his first entrance into the 
operating room of a London hospital. He swooned away 
at the sight of a patient bleeding freely from an ugly 
wound. As he was being carried out of the amphi- 
theatre, he faintly heard uproarious cheers from the 
students, many of whom had gone through the same 
experience. 

"With full assurance on his part that I would soon 
Overcome my natural timidity, I consented to remain 



98 INCIDENTS OF 

with him and continue my studies. Time proved he was 
right, for many moons had not crossed the zenith before 
I was as brave and self confident as any old sawbones 
in the land, and could not only witness operations but 
soon became quite an adept as assistant in the most san- 
guinary cases. 

A LIVELY INCIDENT 

"While I was a student in his office, an incident occur- 
red that may be well worth relating. Away back in the 
time of the civil war — I think it was in the summer of 
1863 when recruiting for the army was going on very 
briskly — I was upstairs in our office when I heard a 
squad of soldiers marching along the street. When 
opposite us they suddenly stopped, which I knew without 
seeing them, as I heard the guns come down on the side- 
walk with a quick, ominous rattle. I instantly surmised 
something was up. Throwing aside my book, I rushed 
down the stairs and saw the soldiers standing at rest. 
My curiosity led me to await developments. I was 
fully rewarded for remaining, as the sequel will show. 

"A raw recruit, known as Bob Gleason the town bully, 
was sitting on the foot of the stairs when the recruiting 
squad came along picking up laggards. He was famous 
in those days as the terror of the town. About six feet 
in height, strong, muscular and quarrelsome, he was full 
of fight, and was always looking for trouble, especially 
with men he thought he could handle. 

"He was commanded to fall in. Instead of doing so 
he met the order with very abusive language and claimed 
that no one could make him fall in unless he felt like it. 
With a swaggering gait he walked over to the captain, 
a little fellow about five feet six, and put his fist under 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 99 

his nose. The captain, who was a Regular Army man, 
deliberately unbuckled the belt that held his sword and 
handed it to a man just behind him. The raw recruit 
squared off in true bucolic style and put up his "dukes." 
Quicker than the lightning kick of a vicious mule he got 
a stinging blow from the little captain's right, which 
landed him on his back in the gutter about fifteen feet 
away. True to his fighting instinct he picked himself up 
and returned to the fray, but after a few awkward lunges, 
on his part, he received a swinging blow on the jaw 
which 'put him to sleep' away out in the middle of the 
road. When he came to, his pals placed him on an old 
weather beaten shutter and lugged him off to the hospital 
where he remained about six weeks. After he had fully 
recovered from the results of the little captain's discipline 
he was ordered to the front. He was always a spectacular 
braggadocio, and when he went South he carried a rope 
with him to 'hang Jeff Davis.' In his very first engage- 
ment at Malvern Hill he was shot down, the bullet 
entering his forehead. Thus ends the tale of the town 
bully." 

ADJOURNED FOR DINNER 

"Well, my dear doctor, I am greatly interested in your 
well told story," said I, "and as the ship's bells are now 
calling us to dinner we will take an adjournment for the 
morrow, when I hope to have the pleasure of hearing a 
continuation of your narrative which interests me very 
much." When we went to the dining saloon I asked the 
steward to change my seat if possible, so that I could 
be nearer my new-found friend. After much diplomacy, 
an accommodating passenger who sat in the chair I was 
looking for, kindly offered to exchange with me. All 



100 INCIDENTS OF 

being now comfortably arranged, I was near enough to 
the doctor so that we could exchange ideas on various 
topics, but reserved all conversation relating to his re- 
markable career, for the smoking room. 

A LIVELY DINING ROOM 

When the dinner was about half over, a sudden and 
violent storm arose. The great ship began to roll and 
pitch, so much so that the stewards hastened to put on 
the tables the little fenders to prevent the dishes from 
sliding off. As the storm increased in fury the soup, 
coffee, vegetables, etc., began to leap into the laps and 
over the broadcloth of the diners until nearly all were 
decorated with viands that Were really intended for 
nourishment. All was now in the utmost confusion and 
when the dishes went crashing to the floor most of the 
passengers became very sick and started on a run for 
their staterooms. My friend and his wife joined the 
flying crowd and the dining room soon became practically 
forsaken but for two ladies who sat opposite, and myself. 
For a short time they were having great sport laughing 
at the other passengers who were obliged to flee, until 
the ship gave one extra, violent lunge when they too were 
obliged to scamper down the aisle. I was never yet sea- 
sick although I have made ten voyages, but on this 
occasion I felt an indescribable stinging pain in the back 
of my head that nearly drove me mad. As soon as able, I 
too retired to my stateroom where I remained until the 
storm was over. 

A HOWLING SWELL 

The next morning after the storm, as I was strolling 
along the promenade deck, I met Dr. Woodbyrne, a 








o 




<<: 


^ 


n 


w 


rr 


H 


W 


U 


r? 


1— 1 


CU 


:^ 


m 


o 









H 


rt- 


R 






fl 







O 


V) 


< 


en 


R 


O 


Cfi 












1— 1 


13- 


^ 


ffi 






rn 




H 


fy 




rt- 


t^ 








> 






3 






w 


•-1 




ft 


en 




iO 


o- 


c; 


r/i 


> 


-o 


pi 


n 


w 


o 


< 


>-! 


w 




:3 




1— 1 


Ol 


n 


(T 


w 




EUROPEAN TRAVEL 101 

stranger no longer, who joined me. As we leisurely 
walked to and fro he told me more of his history and it 
became so interesting that I suggested we take seats. 
Finding a suitable place in a somewhat secluded corner, 
I discovered two chairs near together, one being occupied 
by a man whom I addressed, kindly asking if he would 
accommodate us by taking a chair a little farther on, as 
those seats were so conveniently placed that my friend 
and I could continue a quiet conversation that we had 
commenced on the promenade. He looked up at me with 
a scowl that I will never forget, and finally growled out 
that he would not do any such thing for our convenience 
or that of anyone else. I could not really blame him for 
refusing us, as of course he had a perfect right to his seat, 
but his manner and appearance attracted our attention so 
much that I shall never forget the circumstance, trivial 
though it be. 

He was a short stocky man with a very red, pugnacious 
looking face that would do credit to a retired prizefighter. 
As he stolidly sat there pulling away on a short briar 
pipe, I could not help taking an inventory of his "loud 
togs." He was dressed in a stunning suit of large 
checks, resembling horse blanket material, a mixture of 
pale green, brown and lemon color. His large, soggy 
looking head was surmounted by a slouchy cap of the 
same material, and all in all he was what the Canadians 
would call a howling swell. I took him for a follower of 
the race tracks or perhaps a bunco steerer and was pretty 
well satisfied with my diagnosis. 

AN ICEBERG 

The doctor and I finally found more desirable seats 



102 INCIDENTS OF 

on another part of the deck, a comfortable distance from 
the "accommodating gentleman." We had just resumed 
our conversation when a mild commotion took place, and 
we noticed passengers running to the starboard. Of 
course we followed suit and found we were approaching 
an iceberg. Off to the right, about five miles distant, 
could be seen what appeared to be a great floating city 
with steeples, domes and minarets. As the melting sur- 
faces glistened in the sun, all the hues of the rainbow 
could be seen dancing from peak to peak and from sea 
to summit. It was a glorious sight, in fact it looked like 
a vast fairyland with its myriads of fantastic forms. 

When it is remembered that only about one seventh 
of floating ice shows above the surface, it can be readily 
imagined how great the entire mass below must have 
been. The icebergs that we generally meet are formed 
from immense glaciers that slide into the sea from the 
coast of Greenland and Labrador. Their edges are 
broken off by the action of the waves, float away in great 
masses into the sea and are carried off by the action of 
the tides into the North Atlantic. 

If there be any one thing I greatly dread on an ocean 
voyage it is the possibility of coming in contact with 
an iceberg. So many vessels have been lost by striking 
those mammoth wanderers of the deep that one may well 
feel timid when he thinks of the danger, especially at 
night when a fog is on. I remember one time when our 
ship came to a full and sudden stop at the dead of night, 
and began to vigorously blow her fog horn. Many left 
their berths and went on deck to learn the cause of the 
unusual incident. They had to return however without 
getting any satisfaction from the reticent officers. I felt 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 103 

pretty sure we were in the vicinity of an iceberg or per- 
haps another vessel. I learned afterwards that we came 
very near running into an old derelict that the dense fog 
had nearly hidden from view. That was a very close 
call for the twelve hundred souls on board. It was 
really a narrow escape from the fate of many a ship that 
has left port never to be heard from again. 

A THEOLOGICAL SURPRISE 

I did not meet Dr. Woodbyrne again until the next 
day which was Sunday. He asked me to go to the smok- 
ing room with him and have a cigar. After enjoying 
our Havanas for awhile, he resumed his narrative, when 
I gently interrupted, asking if he remembered the man 
we saw yesterday on deck, dressed in the loud horse- 
blanket checks, whom I thought was a prizefighter or 
something like it. He said, "Oh ! yes, very decidedly. How 
could I forget that picturesque and gruff individual?" 
"Well !" said I, "You will hardly believe what I am going 
to tell you. To while away a pleasant and perhaps a 
profitable hour I went below to attend the regular Sun- 
day services of the ship. Whom do you suppose I saw and 
heard unctuously preaching the gospel of the day, but 
the very fellow we met yesterday holding down the chair 
that he would not accommodate us with, in other words, 
the howling swell whom I thought was a pugilist." 

"You don't really mean it," said he. 

"I certainly do, but wouldn't have believed it had I 
not actually seen him." 

"Well, how did he look and act?" 

"He had a solemn visage, evidently made up for the 



104 INCIDENTS OF 

occasion and was dressed in the regulation clerical garb. 
In drawling monotones and with awkward gestures he 
perfunctorily went through the services and even at- 
tempted to dilate on brotherly love and the virtues of 
charity. I could hardly suppress a loud smile when I 
remembered his appearance and manners on the day be- 
fore. 'Well/ I said to to myself, 'If this isn't a ludicrous 
display of real hypocrisy I fail to understand the meaning 
of the word.' " 

It seems he was the regular, hired chaplain of the 
vessel and was then and there simply earning his salary. 

My friend was astounded and broke in by saying, "A 
fellow can't most always sometimes tell how far a cat 
can jump by the color of it." "Howly smoke! as Dennis 
said, when he saw the church burning!" 

After Dr. Woodbyrne had listened to the above rather 
interesting incidents he resumed his narrative. 

"I believe the last conversation we had in reference to 
my career," said he, "was about the time I fainted away 
in the doctor's office and became so discouraged that I 
was inclined to give up my studies, when the doctor per- 
suaded me to continue. 

"I remained in his office about a year, when I thought 
it was about time to enter a medical college. I will 
never forget the anxieties that loomed up before me at 
that particular juncture. My parents were poor and I 
did not know where the money was to come from to pay 
my expenses. My dear mother, who had by this time 
become reconciled to the fact that something besides the 
ministry was to be my lot, was willing that I should 
embrace any honorable calling that would save me from 
the necessity of manual labor, as she was fully aware 




ANCIENT CHANDELIER IN THE CATHEDRAL AT PISA 

Its swinging when the doors were opened gave Galileo his first idea 
of the clock pendulum 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 105 

that my frail constitution would not endure the require- 
ments demanded by such a life. 

''Her resourceful mind planned that I should borrow 
the funds necessary for a college education. Having a 
wealthy old bachelor cousin, she persuaded him to ad- 
vance the necessary funds. He, for remuneration, was to 
become a member of the household and 'board it out.' 

"All being now financially provided for, I entered a 
medical college in New York where I diligently pursued 
my studies until I was graduated with honors at the head 
of my class. This college was then (before the Civil 
War) the largest and most celebrated in the land. It 
was attended by students from all parts of the world. 
Many from the Southern States were among them. I 
there made many pleasant acquaintances which were 
appreciated. 

A ROUGH RECEPTION 

"Were I to relate many of the incidents occurring in 
student life I fear I might tire you." 

"Oh ! no, doctor, I am sure they would be very inter- 
esting." 

"Well !" said he, "as we have plenty of time at our 
disposal, I will relate a few happenings." 

"One fine afternoon two seedy looking tramps entered 
the college and were intently scanning the bulletin board 
in the lobby. Some students, three stories above, were 
looking over the stair railing. Far below and directly 
under them they spied, through the wellhole of the stair- 
way, the unsuspecting hoboes. To make things inter- 
esting for the strangers, what do you suppose they did? 
Why they went back to the dissecting room and scooped 
up two pails of filthy water from the cleansing troughs, 



106 INCIDENTS OF 

and threw their contents on the unfortunates below. 
The impact was so great that they were hurled to the 
floor, but as soon as they got to their feet they made a 
frantic rush for the enemy. As there were two long 
flights to mount, the students had plenty of time to pre- 
pare for the attack. Rushing back again to the dissect- 
ing room they got two old wet carpets that were used 
for keeping bodies moist. Holding them spread out, 
they stood at the head of the stairs and when the tramps 
arrived they were suddenly enveloped in the clinging 
folds of the clammy fabrics which rendered them *Hors 
de combat.' Before they could disentangle themselves 
the prankish students had made good their escape 
through the rear door of the college. 

A DISASTROUS TUMBLE 

"Another incident at the college was of a serio-comic 
nature. It was customary to have the dissecting rooms 
cleaned out every evening after the students had finished 
their work. Female convicts from Blackwell's Island 
were selected to perform these unpleasant duties. They 
generally were characters of the toughest and most hard- 
ened class and were, for the most part, well on in years. 

"I was delayed at my work one evening somewhat 
longer than usual, and while looking up the Tter a tertio 
ad quartum ventriculum' in a brain, I heard a great 
racket and much screaming, which seemed to come from 
the region of the elevator. Dropping my scalpel, I rushed 
over to the vicinity of the trouble and sure enough the 
'cage' had fallen with several women in it. I hurried 
down three flights of stairs to help the victims. When 
I arrived at the bottom I found four women prostrate on 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 107 

the cellar floor and unconscious. With others I suc- 
ceeded in untangling legs and arms which had been 
tossed about in the direst confusion. We sent them to 
the hospital across the way where they were found to be 
seriously injured. 

"In the dissecting room were several jars of anatomical 
specimens preserved in alcohol. It seems those old 
rounders made it a practice of drinking the spirits and 
often drained the jars empty when no one was looking. 
After they had their fill they went to the elevator to sleep 
it off. Their combined weight caused the retaining latch 
to give way with the above results. 

A CRUEL EXHIBITION 

One pleasant day in the month of October the students, 
as was customary, were taken up to the great hospitals 
on Blackwell's Island to attend clinics and witness sur- 
gical operations. We generally went up twice a week. 
The three-mile ride on the river was always enjoyed by 
us. One of the young men who had been at a banquet 
the night before had not sufficiently recovered from the 
hilarity of the occasion and was quite eloquent in describ- 
ing the beauties of the scenery we were passing. In a 
special burst of enthusiasm he declared that the shores 
were so beautiful that they reminded him of those on 
the old farm at home — in fact the scenery was absolutely 
'tooralooral' (truly rural). So he went on until we 
reached the hospital dock, affording much amusement 
for his fellow students. 

"As a sad contrast to that jollity I witnessed a scene 
when we arrived that I shall never forget. Just before 
the boat started for the Island the 'Black Maria,' as the 



108 INCIDENTS OF 

prison van was called, drove up and unloaded a miscel- 
laneous lot of human derelicts who were driven like 
cattle down into the steerage or hold. When the con- 
victs were being taken ashore I could not help noticing 
the brutal manners of the officers in charge. I remember 
one poor woman who did not come up from the steerage 
quickly enough to suit the driver. As she hobbled up 
nearly to the top of the stairs he reached down and 
grabbed her by the hair of the head and thus bodily 
dragged her up on the deck. As she lay there trembling 
like an aspen leaf, and almost helpless, the brute began 
to kick her about the head and body until the students 
interfered. It was only by the merest chance that he es- 
caped being thrown overboard. The poor unfortunate 
creature, even in her frightful condition, showed evident 
traces of former beauty and refinement. She could not 
have been more than forty years of age. Her heavy 
brown hair hung about her face and over her shoulders 
in a disheveled and tangled mass. The death-like agony 
shown on her regular features and emaciated face was a 
sight never to be forgotten. I turned away from this 
exhibition of outrageous brutality, sick at heart and 
thought of man's inhumanity to his fellow beings. I was 
heartily sorry that the boys did not drown the inhuman 
wretch who thus maltreated a weak and inoffensive un- 
fortunate. 

''one of the finest'^ 

"The police in New York in those days were remark- 
ably uncouth and even brutal with strangers. They 
were not accommodating in the least and would give no 
information if they did not feel in the humor. They 



M 
O 

o 

>3 

I— I 

w n 



o 

ffl 
o 

CI 

W 

W 
> 



^ EL 






W 



M B. 

^ 5 • 

H P. 
K 



td 
O w 

oS 

> 




EUROPEAN TRAVEL 109 

strutted the streets with the air of a Crusoe who is said 
to have exclaimed, 'I am monarch of all I survey.' 

"I remember one night when I was returning to my 
hotel at a late hour I passed a new building on Duane 
street which was boarded up in front. As I passed 
it I heard agonizing groans as if coming from some- 
one in great distress, and thought some person might be 
dying there. I told the first policeman I met of what 
I heard and suspected. Did he go to the immediate 
relief of the sufferer? No, on the contrary he suddenly 
turned on me and shaking his club, told me, with a string 
of horrid oaths, to mind my own business and keep my 
information to myself; if I did not he would run me in. 
I thought that very strange for a 'guardian of the peace' 
and could not divine the reason, if he had any, for such 
boorish conduct. Perhaps he thought I had noticed his 
neglect of official duty and that he would hear from it if 
he did not try to frighten me into silence. 

IN THE ROLE OF AN ARTIST 

"I was attending a lecture one day in the amphitheatre 
of Bellevue Hospital when a patient, greatly deformed, 
was brought in for an operation. In the course of the 
lecture the surgeon said it was a very peculiar case and 
one which he hoped to completely relieve. He was there- 
fore sorry that a photograph of that unusual deformity of 
the limbs had not been secured before he was brought to 
the hospital. 

"At that time there were no such photographic con- 
veniences as we have to-day. The operating surgeon 
therefore asked if there were any one in the audience 
who had a practical knowledge of drawing. For a long 



110 INCIDENTS OF 

time he received no response. Seeing that no one went 
forward I, with some trepidation, I'll confess, volunteered 
to make an attempt at sketching the patient, having had 
some experience in tliat line. As I went down the steps 
of the amphitheatre to the operating table, a rousing 
cheer went up from the five hundred students that gave 
me great courage. 

"After I had finished the sketch I showed it to the 
surgeon who was so much pleased that he handed it 
around to the students who also approved of it with 
many expressions of satisfaction. As I returned to my 
seat in the upper row of the amphitheatre I was again 
the object of cheering demonstrations. 

"A few days after I met this same surgeon on the boat 
enroute for the Island Hospital. He congratulated me 
on having secured for him an excellent drawing which 
he very much appreciated. During a pleasant and very 
interesting conversation I had with him, he invited me 
to visit his office on the following day. As I left him I 
felt somewhat curious to know why he wished me to call 
on him. In fact I could not imagine what his object 
could be in asking me, an almost total stranger, to his 
home. 

"The next day I was very cordially received by the 
surgeon who extended to me the glad hand of a hearty 
welcome. After a little preliminary conversation he 
told me he was so well pleased with what I had done 
for him in the amphitheatre that he would like to have 
me enter his office as a student. It is needless to say 
that I was more than delighted to hear this unexpected 
invitation. 

"I could now clearly see before me not only possibil- 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 111 

ities but even the probabilities of ultimate success in my 
professional ambitions. 

"I remained in his office three years, attending medical 
lectures at the University and assisting him in operations 
and office work. He appreciated my work so much that 
he made me a generous weekly allowance of money 
which came in very handy just at that time." 

"Well, doctor," said I, "you surely struck luck. I can 
readily see that your knowledge of free hand drawing 
came in very good for you at that time and seemed to 
turn the scale in your favor." 

"It certainly did," said he, "and what's more, I was 
afterwards chosen to illustrate a large work on surgery 
which he published while I was with him. This work 
is now a well-known text-book in the medical colleges." 

"This surgeon, who was none other than the celebrated 
Dr. Lewis A. Sayre, was at that time Health officer of 
the City of New York. His duties were many and 
laborious and I was often called on to assist him in his 
municipal work. This afforded me many facilities for 
obtaining practical knowledge which served me well in 
after life. 

THE DRAFT RIOTS 

"During the great draft riots in 1863 he was the 
busiest and most active man I ever saw in the perform- 
ance of his duties. The first one shot down at that time 
was a policeman. He was attended by Dr. Sayre who 
found him dangerously wounded. An operation, at 
which I assisted, was performed. The man made a 
speedy recovery and often boasted of how he was saved 
by the health officer." 



112 INCIDENTS OF 

"Doctor, you must have had lively times during those 
memorable riots." 

"We certainly did, and I can assure you we had many 
close calls for our lives. I remember one day when we 
heard that the 7th Regiment was on a double quick up 
Third Avenue. I was in my boarding house at the time, 
and rushed down stairs to see them. Another student 
came running down behind me, violently pushed me aside 
and got ahead. As we both reached the sidewalk the 
regiment, which was fast approaching, fired a volley up 
the street, killing a great number, among whom was the 
young man who was so eager to pass me on the stairs. 
He fell right in front of me with a bullet in his brain, 
I ran back to my room as rapidly as possible, thanking 
God that the young man had succeeded in getting ahead 
of me." 

"Well, doctor, that was a very Providential escape for 
you." 

"Yes, I can assure you it was, and I was so terror 
stricken that I immediately packed up my belongings and 
left New York for my own quiet home in the West as 
soon as the disturbed conditions would permit." 

"So you did not see any more of the riots ?" 

"Oh ! yes, the city was in an uproar at every point and 
it was with great difficulty that I reached the railroad 
station. On the way, I was brutally assaulted by roughs 
who sought to forcibly take away my luggage. Police- 
men saved me many times, after a hard struggle. When 
safely seated in the home-bound train I drew a long, 
deep breath of relief and firmly resolved to never return, 
under any circumstances." 

"Dr. Woodbyrne, your story is very interesting and 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 113 

reminds me of some lively experiences I had at that 
time." 

"You don't mean to say you were in New York during 
the draft riots of '63." 

"I certainly was and if it would interest you I will 
relate some of my experiences on that memorable occas- 
ion. I remember well the month of July in that year, 
when the great city of New York was in the possession 
of a murderous mob. I was a student at the time, 
attending the Medical College, located on the very spot 
where Tammany Hall now stands. I was going to my 
preceptor's office one morning when the rioters on 
Second Avenue were shooting at every one in sight who 
did not seem to belong to them. I saw people falling 
on every side of me, either killed outright or badly 
wounded, and when I noticed them firing in my direc- 
tion, I sought the protection of a small shade tree, it 
being the only shelter I could quickly reach. While 
many near me were hit, I escaped and ran rapidly down 
the street until I reached the Second Avenue Armory 
which was then burning like a huge furnace. Workmen, 
who were caught in the upper stories, sought to save 
themselves by jumping from the windows. Many poor 
fellows lay mangled on the ground where they struck, 
while others bounded back into the flames. It was the 
most horrible sight I ever beheld. I ran on farther down 
the avenue and saw much fighting, shooting and 
slaughter. At one point I counted sixteen dead bodies 
in a pile in the middle of the road. Col. O'Brien who, 
with a small detachment of troops, conquered a large 
force of rioters in another part of the city, was after- 
ward taken unawares by them and killed on the spot. 



114 INCIDENTS OF 

To wreak their vengeance on him, the wretches dragged 
his dead body from place to place through the dirt of the 
street while shouting in ghoulish glee at their hellish 
deeds. 

"That same evening about ten o'clock I was obliged to 
go over to First Avenue. On the way I was overtaken 
by a wild mob of several hundred, running up the street 
carrying all sorts of weapons, guns, clubs, carhooks, etc. 
As they overtook me I was, like many others, ordered to 
join their ranks. Knowing my life was endangered if I 
did not fall in, I joined the surging mob and ran along 
with them, planning all the while how I could escape 
their clutches. At last I spied a dark alley as we passed 
up the street. Into this I suddenly darted and rapidly 
ran a long way through it until I reached a large box in 
which I hid until the noise of the roiters died away in 
the distance, I then carefully reconnoitered the surround- 
ings. Slowly and fearfully I made my way out to the 
street and finally reached home without encountering 
any more rioters. 

"Those were fearful times in New York. Buildings 
were on fire in every part of the city. Stages and street 
cars were stopped and all places of business were closed. 
It really looked at one time as if the mob were in full 
possession. It was impossible for several days to leave 
the city, as all means of transportation were suspended 
and we were, for the time being, veritable prisoners on 
the Island of Manhattan." 

During my description of the riots many passengers 
became very much interested and drew closely around, 
until my circle of auditors amounted to nearly a score. 
I was asked about several incidents that interested them 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 115 

most, to which I responded often in the minutest detail, 
which seemed to fully satisfy them. 

The company resolved that it was Dr. Woodbyrne's 
turn to entertain by a continuance of his reminiscences, 
some of which they had already heard. 

"The last time we met," said he, "I was telling you of 
being safely seated in the train for home. I found 
many passengers there who had much the same exper- 
ience as myself. They too were fleeing from the *wrath 
to come' — from Sodom and Gomorrah, as it were. 

"On my arrival home I was greeted by parents and 
friends who were very anxious for my safety during the 
riots, as they could not hear from me, all communications 
having been cut off for several days during the most 
exciting period. 

AN AUSPICIOUS BEGINNING 

"With great expectations of professional success I 
hung out my shingle in front of an unpretentious office 
and patiently waited for results. Days and even weeks 
rolled by before I was able to secure any paying patients. 
Of course my old friends and schoolmates obtained some 
gratuitous services, on account of early friendship and 
'old times,' but I soon found that this kind of work 
would not buy bread or pay rent and finally did away 
with that sort of practice. For the really poor I worked 
as faithfully as if they were giving money to me. I 
found after a while, that the gratitude of some of them 
was a well earned asset, while others were as forgetful 
as the virgins of the Scriptures with their untrimmed and 
unlighted lamps. 

"After a few months of close attention to business 
and untiring perseverance, I succeeded in securing a good 



116 INCIDENTS OF 

paying practice. An encouraging feature of my early 
career in the profession was an appointment as physician 
to a young ladies' academy. While holding this position 
I became acquainted with the head music teacher, a young 
French lady of rare beauty and splendid accomplish- 
ments. Although a young bachelor at the time I had not 
the most remote idea of aspiring to her hand. However, 
as our acquaintance advanced I began to feel that if For- 
tune would favor me with such a companion for life I 
would be the happiest man on earth. Our acquaintance 
soon ripened into mutual affection which finally resulted 
in a happy marriage. The lady you saw me with on the 
promenade deck a few days ago was the young music 
teacher of long ago. 

"The town I lived in had no hospital and being anxious 
to become connected with one, I removed to a city in the 
northern part of the state where I found one and became 
connected with it. 

AN UNEXPECTED REBUFF 

"Before settling down to general practice I called on 
a former old-country schoolmate of my father's. As I 
was a stranger in town I asked him if he would kindly 
make me acquainted with some desirable families. What 
was my astonishment when he straightened himself up 
and throwing out his chest like a pouter pigeon, very 
pompously declared he would not comply with my re- 
quest, as it was not his custom to introduce strangers into 
the circle of his immediate friends. 'Well,' said I, *you 
cannot look upon me as an absolute stranger, as you 
know my father so well, and moreover I have credentials 
of honor with me, if you wish to see them.' 'Well, 








THE BAPTISTRY AT PISA 

Built of Carrara marble. Noted for its wonderful pulpit. Echoes in 
this building rival those of the Pantheon in Paris 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 117 

well, young man/ said he testily, 'I have no time to 
bother with you to-day, so will bid you good bye/ With 
that he abruptly turned away and left me. 

"I left his inhospitable presence with a full determina- 
tion to prove to him and his friends that my friendship 
would ere long be as desirable as any he could boast of. 

"As the sequel will show I fully accomplished in time 
what I set out to do. This fellow, whose name was Mur- 
fett, was at that time a merchant doing a good business. 
His prosperity puffed him up to such a degree that he 
aimed to be very aristocratic, so much so that he would 
not condescend to associate with any one who was not 
in the realms of flunkeydom. It was excruciatingly 
funny to witness his attempts at putting on 'lugs.' Men 
who were once his friends but who had not accumulated 
much of this world's goods were not any longer recog- 
nized by him, as he passed them on the street with his 
chest thrown out and his pug nose elevated to an angle 
of forty-five degrees or more. He was never accused 
of being in the least bit educated in the common decencies 
of life and his awkward attempts at high English would 
provoke the risibilities of a mere boot-black. 

"Shortly after I had the 'pleasure' of meeting him I 
heard he was determined to move to New York as he 
found that the people in his own town were not, in his 
estimation, quite up to his ideals of aristocracy. This 
move proved very disastrous for him, as he lost all he 
had in a business venture and was obliged to return to 
his old home a sadder, a humbler but not a wiser man, 
for he never seemed to possess much of the latter qualifi- 
cation. 

"Being now entirely out of business and all broken up 



118 INCIDENTS OF 

he sought, as the last ditch, the humble employment of an 
itinerant insurance solicitor. In the meantime I had 
prospered in my profession, so much so that I was en- 
abled to erect a rather pretentious home. As I was 
watching the builders one day, who should come shyly 
ambling up to me but the same 'gentleman' who so rudely 
repulsed me on my entrance in town a few short years 
before? I knew him the minute I cast my eyes on his 
shabby and shuffling form. It was none other than old 
Murfett himself. As he timidly approached me, he held 
in his trembling hand a little well worn blank book. 
After some fulsome praises for my new building, he 
suavely asked me if I would not do a favor by letting 
him write a little insurance on it. I looked at him with 
profound astonishment and could scarcely realize that 
he was the same fellow who, a short time before, had so 
rudely repulsed me when I asked him a favor. Suppress- 
ing my feelings as well as I could, I mildly asked him if 
he remembered the day we first met in his store on Com- 
monwealth Avenue. He looked up at me rather sheep- 
ishly, with a tinge of disappointment, and pretended not 
to remember that occasion now so vivid in my own recol- 
lection. In a few carefully chosen words I briefly re- 
called the day of our first meeting. He diplomatically 
tried to laugh it off as a good joke. I could not see it 
in that light however and plainly told him so. I more- 
over said that from that time to this I frequently recalled 
the trite old saying, 'It's a long road that has no turn.' 
'Yes, Mr. Murfett, we have reached the turn in that 
road, and for the good of your moral health I will now 
and here administer to you a dose of your own medicine, 
nauseous and bitter as it may be. In response to your 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 119 

modest request I am obliged to give you a negative an- 
swer as cold and positive as your rebuke to me. I 
would not give you any insurance if it were to save you 
from the poorhouse. You do not deserve any kindness 
or consideration from me, for during your ephemeral 
reign of prosperity you completely ignored me with your 
inane pomposity. While I do not intend to imitate your 
abuse, I simply and positively say that your presence here 
is not wanted as I have no time to bother with you.' " 

While Dr. Woodbyrne was relating the above incidents 
in his career, he was very attentively listened to by a 
number of passengers who had dropped in during the 
recital. 

A MAN FROM JAYVILLE 

After an awkward silence for a few minutes a stranger 
stood up and asked the doctor if he might say a few 
words in reference to what he had just listened to. 

"Certainly," said the doctor, "that is what we are here 
for; to discuss entertaining subjects and relate our past 
experiences, as you know conversation shortens the jour- 
ney." 

The stranger, who forgot to introduce himself, was an 
odd looking specimen of humanity. Evidently from the 
hills of old Vermont or the back woods of New Hamp- 
shire, his quaint dialect set off with a pronounced nasal 
twang was, to say the least, very entertaining. 

In stature he was undersize — say about five feet five. 
Fat, rugged and good natured, he seemed to have thrived 
on the hot corn bread and fried pork of 'way down East. 
Clad in a new suit of homespun, he was certainly an in- 
teresting looking character. 

"It appears to me, Doc," said he, — here he was jerked 



120 INCIDENTS OF 

up with a lively jolt that nearly shivered his timbers, as a 
sailor would say, for Dr. Woodbyrne suddenly arose to 
his feet and with unmistakable evidence of injured feel- 
ings, sternly said : " 'Young man, whom do you ad- 
dress as 'Doc ?' If you refer to me you will please recall 
that odious term as I do not recognize it. I consider it 
not far from a downright insult to be thus addressed. 
You know, or ought to know, it's only recognized by cheap 
drug clerks, farriers and downright quacks. If you wish 
to properly address me use the term Doctor or even my 
Christian name but never indulge in a term so despised 
by our profession." 

"Well, Doctor, — I don't know your other name. I 
sartinly didn't mean no harm. I beg yer pardin. Up tu 
our village we always called our physician Doc. 
Wetherby." 

"If he was satisfied with that, well and good, but no 
self-respecting physician would for a moment tolerate 
such a slangy appellation. I will forgive you this time, 
but if you know a physician for whom you have any 
respect never call him Doc." 

"Well, I was going to say, I'm thinking ye used that 
feller ye was tellin' about ruther ruff, don't yew?" 
"Perhaps he didn't know any better'n that. Jes like's 
not he was a leetle high strung and felt his oats, spec- 
ially on thet occasion." 

"Felt his oats ! I guess he did, for he acted like a jack- 
ass dressed in a lion's skin, and tried to personate the 
former owner of the tawny integument. Why, if you 
had seen him strutting around that store, stretched up to 
his full length with his thumbs stuck in the arm holes of 
his vest you'd think he was really 'some pumpkins.' " 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 121 

"I wus goin ter say, Doctor, that mebby he wan't so 
all fired stuck up as yew thought fer." 

"I saw enough of him in after life to convince me that 
he belonged to that class of parvenus who think that the 
possession of money and some cheap, ephemeral notoriety 
are the only requisites to boost them into the lime light 
of an unwarranted authority over their fellow men. They 
try to frown down talent, education and even good man- 
ners. Honesty, with such gilded cattle, is only a mark 
of softness in their estimation and should be sneered at. 
I am not sorry when a purse-proud biped meets misfor- 
tune, especially when he gets so puffed up as to ignore 
his old friends." 

"Well, cum ter think of it. Doctor, I swan ef I don*t 
think yer putty near kerrect. I remember old Si Wilkins 
up ter East Plainville, got so all fired stuck up 'n over- 
bearin 'cause he struck a streak of bullhead luck thet he 
would'nt hev nothin tew do with his poor relations and 
useter not notis em even at prayer meetin. Bimeby, 
however, he made sum bad dickers and lost everything 
he had on airth; was clean skooped out. Then he was 
mity glad tew shine up tew sum of the old timers. Now 
it was their turn; they wouldn't hev nothin to do with 
him in no way, shape ner manner and he was obleeged 
tew leave the village, as it come ter be tew lunsom and 
chilly fer him. So I think yew give the old stuck-up 
merchant about what he earned after all." 

"Well ! my young bucolic friend," said Dr. Woodbyrne, 
still somewhat nettled by the stranger's mode of address- 
ing him, "I am glad to perceive you are possessed of 
some elements of common sense, and I hope you will 
make use of them in future life. If Fortune smile on 



122 INCIDENTS OF 

you, never forget the friends of your early days, espec- 
ially if they have failed to keep pace with you in the ac- 
cumulation of worldly goods. It is unlucky to do so. 
How many times have we known people, once prosper- 
ous, proud and haughty, who have been tumbled to the 
dust by extravagance, negligence, dissipation or loss of 
health! We can never tell in what form bad luck may 
reach us. We should therefore always fortify ourselves 
with the good will of our friends, rich or poor, which 
may prove a tower of strength, if misfortune should at 
any time overtake us. 

As the doctor concluded giving advice to the young 
man, I took out my watch and was astonished to find 
we had reached the hour of eleven p. m. I suggested, it 
was so late, we had better adjourn for the night. All 
agreed with the proposition and I was glad to get out 
of the stuffy smoking room into the fresh air. 

A MIDNIGHT STROLL ON DECK 

Before returning to my stateroom, late as it was, I 
resolved to take a few whiffs of the bracing atmosphere 
and walked briskly up and down the promenade several 
times. I met several on deck who preferred remaining 
there to going to their berths. By the way, it's quite a 
fashion with many people to rest all night, in pleasant 
weather, in their steamer chairs on deck. If you call it 
a fad it's a good sensible one, as it gives them full benefit 
of the pure sea air. 

A gouty old gentleman of seventy or thereabouts, whom 
I often met on deck, was leisurely strolling up and 
down. He was evidently an Englishman of the old aris- 
tocratic type, full blooded and of ponderous form. His 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 123 

glossy red face was ornamented with a huge proboscis 
which had blossomed out to the dimensions of a full 
blown cauliflower. Ornamented with scarlet-hued ex- 
cresences it trembled like a lump of glutinous jelly when 
he heavily walked to and fro. As he approached a pair 
of his friends, I heard him remark: "Well, boys, I'm 
feeling a bit fagged out and I guess I'll go down below, 
take my glass of grog and turn in." 

THE RISING MOON 

As the air proved very refreshing and bracing I re- 
solved to remain on deck for some time, and therefore 
roamed about from one point to another, often having a 
chat with people I chanced to meet. At the stern of the 
vessel I noticed two men standing at the "gunnell" and 
intently watching the swirling waters of the agitated 
deep. They were holding an animated conversation on 
the luminous water in the wake of the vessel. From their 
accent, I judged they were German- Americans who were 
returning from Fatherland. They had the appearance of 
men who had prospered in America and were enjoying 
the fruits of honest toil and shrewd economy. They 
appeared about the same age — say 40 or 45. One was 
a large man of the typical blonde German type, while 
the other was a chubby, dark complexioned little chap 
who seemed to be the very personification of good nature. 
His features did not betray to any extent his Teutonic 
origin. 

Referring to the great phosphorescent display on the 
water, the smaller of the two, who claimed to be well 
posted on maritime phenomena, remarked that the light 
was caused by little "crustys." 



124 INCIDENTS OF 

"Crusty what? You're thinkin of pretzels mine lieber 
frent," said the other. "Well, dot big white foam remints 
me of goot olt Munchiner beer, ony way." 

"Hans, I subbose you heardt already once sumpoddy 
tellin aboud croos-ta-ce-a. Dem's der little fellers what 
makes all dot lightnin peeshniss. Down in der wasser is 
mor'n several tousan uf dem leetle pugs, und when der 
wheels on der big steamer shakes dem oop, dey gets so 
mad like der very tuyvel und shows der teeth what 
shines like little Rhinestones, und der bein sooch a crowd 
uv dem, dey make mighty pig lumin^tions by jiminy." 

"I'm glat you compleetly oxblaned dot curiousness, 
Schneider, but vot is der plazes vay off in der end mit 
der sea?" 

"Oh dots der moon risin." 

"Ach ! mine f rendt, vere haff you peen so long. You 
don't know der sun ven you see it once? It iss unpos- 
sible to be der moon for dots now too alt und don't shine 
mooch. It's in der horns und can't make mooch light. 
Uff you don't tell de sun when you see it, its petter as 
you go down to bed once, undt rest your swelldt headt. 
I neffer see der sun mit horns on it." 

"Veil, uff I can't tell der sun from der moon I advise 
mineself to study some more ostronominny once." 

As the sun rose majestically from the horizon, Sch- 
neider admitted that he was a little hazy on the subject, 
and felt somewhat crestfallen when his companion 
danced away with the tantalizing remark : "Goot mornin 
my dear olt moonatic." 

A PLAGIARIZING INGRATE 

Crossing over on the French Steamer La Touraine one 



Cu 


H 


n 


a 


B3 

13 


pi 


£L 


n 


^. 


ffi 


13 


a 


< 


w 


01 


n 


13 


l-H 




MH 


O 




n 


o 




^ 


< 


CO 


n 


> 


^ 


^ 


^ 


H 


&= 
K 


> 


(T) 




3 


'> 


H*, 


> 


n 


^ 


n 


1— 1 








►>' 












•^ 




N 


Ij' 


r 


u 


r 


ID 








^ 


en 


13 


> 
r 


O 


r1 


*i 


H 


rr 


M 


<< 






EUROPEAN TRAVEL 125 

summer, I became acquainted with a gentleman who, I 
afterward learned, was Dr. Josiah L. Montgomery of 
Lotos, Ohio. I found him very entertaining and full of 
reminiscences relating to his long professional career. 

He said, "I have had all sorts of luck; good, bad and 
indifferent, during the past forty years. I have met with 
many friends, and, I am happy to say, but few enemies. 
The former encouraged and helped me in my struggles, 
stood by me in the days of adversity and rejoiced with 
me when success crowned my efforts." 

"I'll acknowledge," said he, "I was always a little too 
altruistic, especially when I found young men encounter- 
ing the same obstacles that marred my early days. I 
not only buoyed them up with encouragement but even 
extended a helping hand when necessary. One fellow, 
who vividly comes to mind just now, early sought my 
advice and asked many favors which I readily granted. 
Finding I was an *easy mark,' as he afterward said, he 
lost no opportunity to lean on me when he needed 
moral, influential or substantial support. 

"His preparatory studies being finished, he entered 
a small, struggling medical college which had just started 
up in our town. The educational advantages to be ob- 
tained there at that time were very meager. After he 
had spent three months in that embryo institution, I ad- 
vised him to enter a larger and older college near New 
York, where, if he were diligent in his studies, he might 
possibly get through in the following spring. I heard 
from him frequently during his sojourn there. He was 
fearful that he could not pass the examinations when the 
time came. I gave him all the encouragement I could, 
and even left a busy practice and went down to his college. 



126 INCIDENTS OF 

many hundreds of miles away, a short time before gradua- 
tion day. As I was then but a young practitioner myself 
with very limited means, I could illy afford the time or 
expense. However I went, and had a conversation with 
the Dean of the Faculty who said he felt rather doubtful 
about letting my friend graduate as he had passed a very 
poor examination. 'However,' said he, 'if you will see 
to it that he studies more and gets better posted, we will 
run the risk of giving him a diploma.' I promised I 
would do all I could for the young man, not only by 
instructing him but by obtaining for him such work as 
he might be fitted for. 

"With that understanding the faculty consented to let 
him graduate. Not fully realizing the close call he had 
for being left with the derelicts, he had the presumption 
to try an examination for a position as an interne in the 
hospital. In this he completely 'flunked.' He then re- 
turned home to commence practice on his own hook. 

"It is a well known fact that when a new doctor first 
arrives in a neighborhood he doesn't have to wait long 
for practice, such as it is. The deadbeats of the town, 
who have worn out the patience and credit of the resident 
practitioners, patronize him profusely and flatter him 
with fulsome praises as to his ability and their joy at 
now having a doctor who understands his business, as 
'the old fogies don't know nothin !' 

"Our young friend was so overwhelmed with this kind 
of flattery that he really thought he was one of the bright- 
est lights that ever struck the town. He got trusted for 
a second hand rig and drove around the city like mad, 
whether he had a call or not, to make people believe he 
was doing a rushing business. 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 127 

"I certainly did not envy him his apparent prosperity, 
as my former interest in him clearly proved. In fact, I 
was glad to see him so energetic and hoped he would 
soon get a paying practice. 

"One evening I called on an old patient whose case 
was a tedious one and had demanded my closest attention 
for several weeks. Entering the house I met a very 
chilly reception and was received quite formally. I could 
not account for this sudden change in a family I had 
known so long and that always greeted my coming with 
smiles of welcome. I said to the wife, 'What's up now ? 
Has anything gone wrong?' As I was speaking I no- 
ticed much subdued excitement and saw several members 
of the family vigorously gesticulating, whispering among 
themselves and casting reproachful glances in my direc- 
tion. 

"I asked one of the daughters the cause of this un- 
usual state of affairs. 

" 'Oh nothing !' said she, 'only we've had a new doctor.' 

" 'A new doctor !' said I, 'What do you mean by that ?' 

" 'Why, Mrs. Sloan, across the street, said that her 
doctor, a new man in town, was great on the 'yaller jand- 
ers' and she advised us to try him.' 

" 'Well, you should have notified me that you were 
going to make a change. It would have been courtesy 
on your part to save me this unnecessary journey.' 

" 'I didn't know as you'd care, and, 'sides that, I was 
afraid to.' 

" 'You know as well as I can tell you, that your father 
has been improving under my care for the last two weeks 
and is now past all danger. His severe attack of gall 
duct obstruction is now completely relieved. The 'yaller 



128 INCIDENTS OF 

janders,' as you call it, is only a symptom caused by the 
extravasated bile coloring the skin. Now that the bile 
is flowing freely through its natural channels he will soon 
be well, with his skin as clear as ever. What did the 
new doctor say when he arrived?' 

" *Not much, only asked how long he had been sick. I 
told him about five weeks altogether.' 

" 'Did he ask what physician was attending him ?' 

" 'Yes, I told him you'd been 'tending him for more 
than a month. He went over to pa, felt his pulse and 
tapped him on the chest with a little rubber mallet 'n 
then listened to his lungs with a small red trumpet. 
After that he looked around the room and asked to see 
the medicine. I showed it to him. He tasted it and 
smelled it, and making a very ugly face, he sat the bot- 
tle down with a whack and said there was enough pizen 
in it to kill a dozen men. 'Well, pa's been taking it 
more two weeks,' said I, 'and he didn't get no worse.' 

" 'I don't care a straw for that. It's not the proper 
way to treat him. You had better throw that stuff out 
the window. I'll give him something that Prof. Lipten- 
stein always used in such cases.' " 

"Dr. Montgomery!" said I in profound astonishment, 
"you don't mean to tell me that the young man whom you 
so anxiously cared for and helped, suddenly turned on 
you?" 

"I certainly do, and I never could learn his object in 
thus treating me unless it was that he had a silly notion 
that by injuring my practice he could build himself up on 
its ruins." 

"I wonder why he selected you as a victim of his 
piracy." 



o 

O 

•-t 

•o 

?! 

5' 



o n 

B ^ 



£0 y-> 



n o 






n 
o 

r 
r 
o 

> 

w 

H 

w 



5 't) 

c O 

S O 

cr 




EUROPEAN TRAVEL 129 

"I really never could understand that, unless it was 
that he knew me better than he did the other doctors, 
and relying on my good nature thought it safer to do so." 

"Did you help him any more after you discovered his 
plan of campaign?" 

"Most assuredly not. From that time on I allowed 
him to paddle his own canoe. When he did find that I 
really resented his interference and acted on the defen- 
sive, he began to add insult to injury by trying to hurt 
my character with malicious insinuations and downright 
slander, for you know slander is the solace of malig- 
nancy." 

Dr. Montgomery at this point hurriedly drew out his 
watch and looking at it said, "By Jove! I had almost 
forgotten it. I had an engagement to meet a gentleman 
in the music room at three o'clock and now it's nearly 
four. You'll please excuse me for a few moments. 

I remarked that time does fly rapidly when an inter- 
esting story is being told. 

"Yes," he said, rather sadly, "it may be interesting to 
my hearers but I can assure you it is anything but 
pleasant for me to recall the treachery of that fellow who 
finally proved to be the real personification of ingratitude. 
When I return from the music room I'll tell you more 
about him." 

"Thank you," said a gentleman who sat next me, "we'd 
be very glad to hear more about that egotistical chap as 
I have in mind a neighbor at home who is much the same 
kind of a creature." 

During the absence of Dr. Montgomery we passed the 
time in commenting on what we had just heard. 

One passenger remarked that the more you do for some 



130 INCIDENTS OF 

people the more they try to injure you. On the least 
pretext, and often on no pretext at all, they will show 
their malignancy. 

At this point, Dr. Montgomery returned from the 
music room. 

**As I was telling, this precocious chap rapidly devel- 
oped into a full-fledged professional pirate. He ignored 
all ethics and fairly despised the Golden Rule. He insin- 
uatingly wormed himself into the practice of other men 
when he could do so by plausible stories of his 'wonderful 
ability.' He was very suave to the wealthy and corres- 
pondingly domineering to the poorer classes of his former 
acquaintances. If he could touch elbows with the rich, 
his ambition was fully gratified. 

"He had no scruples as to the means of placing him- 
self in the lime-light of publicity and even went so far as 
to plagiarize a lecture written by a professor in a West- 
ern college. Claiming this as his own production, he 
pompously delivered it before a medical society in our 
town, and even went so far as to repeat it in several 
parts of the state, until his friends advised him to let up 
on it as the public were now pretty well informed as to 
who the real author was. 

"He made no more breaks of that kind until a few 
months ago, when, thinking his former fiasco had been 
fully forgotten, he had the audacity to send to a local 
paper an article which he claimed as his own. It was 
a facetious account of a baseball game played between 
the doctors and lawyers of the town. The article was 
really written by S. Q. Lapius and was published in one 
of our morning papers July 12, 1877. In looking over 
a trunk in my stateroom this morning I fortunately 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 131 

came across an old newspaper containing that very ar- 
ticle. Do you care to hear it? It is silly stuff anyway 
but he thought it was great." 

"Certainly, let's have it," cried several at once. "It 
may amuse us," said one, "as you know 'a little nonsense 
now and then is relished by the wisest men.' " 

A BASE BALL CHALLENGE 

"Well, gentlemen, here goes!" 

" 'Owing to a concatenation of fortituitous circum- 
stances, superinduced by a succession of unparalleled 
coincidences, we the sons of Aesculapius have learned with 
unfeigned regret, of a fearful epidemic prevailing in our 
midst, the symptoms of which in the active stages are 
startling gyrations, fruitless attempts to strike at ob- 
jects in the air, monomania for running at bags, accelera- 
tion of pulse, elevation of temperature, labored respira- 
tion, passive hyperaemia followed by profuse diaphoresis 
with direful hallucinations. The second day usually 
finds the sufferer not unlike one who has been fondling a 
twenty-horse power threshing machine. Not infre- 
quently this stage is marked by opisthotnos, subsultus 
tendinum, ischialgia, graphospasmus, gastrodynia, cep- 
halgia and insomnia. We are told the disciples of Black- 
stone now have the premonitory symptoms. We there- 
fore solicit such to meet us at Lakeside park on any day 
they may designate, where we will make a careful diag- 
nosis of their malady, give them heroic treatment on the 
ball field and prognosticate as to their ultimate 
recovery.' " 

"There was nothing original about him but he was a 
faithful imitator. If he could surreptitiously appropriate 



132 INCIDENTS OF 

the products of his neighbor's talents he never hesitated 
to do so." 

A TIME SERVING HYPOCRITE 

When Dr. Montgomery had finished his story, an aged 
man who had been an earnest listener most of the time 
spoke up, saying it reminded him so much of a similar 
character in his town that he'd like to relate a little of 
his experience. 

This gentleman was one of the real old stock, evi- 
dently from away down East somewhere. He was tall, 
lean and lank. With a long nose, sharp chin and bright, 
piercing eyes he reminded me of the redoubtable 
Uncle Sam. He spoke with a long, deliberate drawl so 
peculiar to the people of his section. With a pronounced 
nasal twang he indulged in the dialect acquired by con- 
stant association with people of his neighborhood. Evi- 
dently a man of culture and education, he preferred this 
easy style of conversation. 

"Well, gentlemen," said he, "bein's I'm a stranger to 
most of you I'll introduce myself before commencin'. 
My name is Stebbins. I'm known up our way as Dr. 
Silas Stebbins. We had a fellow out in our country that 
started in to practice medicine with a flourish that made 
the folks sit up an' take notice. The first thing he did 
after comin' to town was to get a stunnin' double rig and 
drive around like all possessed. Like the fakirs we 
read about, he did for certain stir up quite a business 
in a mighty short time. After a while he got into politics 
and had himself elected to a responsible position of 
public trust. Not willin' to keep in the 'straight and 
narrow path, as he could not make money fast enough 



. > 



o 


§ 


tn 


> 


ro 


5^ 




td 

r 


r+ 


M 


3 


O 


o 


§ 


c« 


td 


O 




Pu 


h- 1 


B 


^ 


z 


o 


1 


> 


H 


§ 


tr 


Td 


•<; 


CJ 


13- 


w 




> 


fD 


^ 


Tt 


H 


P 


O 




EUROPEAN TRAVEL 133 

that way, he went into several dubious schemes for get- 
ting rich quick. With many other things he was accused 
of asking for and receiving a bribe of several hundred 
dollars. The taxpayers got onto it and made a big 
fuss over it. The agitation got so fierce that he was 
hauled up and indicted. To keep him out of jail, until 
his trial came on, one of his friends put up a large bond. 

"Knowin' the people felt so bitter agin him for his 
betrayal of their confidence, he was afraid to be tried 
in his own town, so he got a change of venue and was 
tried in another city where the real circumstances of the 
case were not so well known. 

*'He hired a famous criminal lawyer to defend him, 
went through the farce of trial, got out of the scrape and 
returned home. 

"His lucky escape from State's prison seemed to 
harden his cheek to a greater extent, if possible, and he 
put on more 'lugs' than ever. To pull the wool over 
folks' eyes he worked the pious racket and would attend 
meetin' as regular as any old deekin. So that people'd 
know he was in the saint business, he'd get out in the 
middle aisle and go through all the pious motions he 
could think of. 

"Some poor critters really thought he was right down 
in earnest, 'specially the old maids when they had the 
hysterics. He even got the ministers on his side to help 
him along in business. 

"I never had much agin him, only that I didn't quite 
like the way he appreciated my kindness tew him when he 
first came to town. His wife got sick and when he 
thought he was goin' tew lose both her and her unborn 
child he sent for me in the middle of a cold, stormy night. 



134 INCIDENTS OF 

I got there in time to save them both. Her mother 
stood by with tears of gratitude in her eyes and thanked 
me over and over again for my skill in saving two lives, 
both mother and child. 

"The doctor hung his head as if ashamed of his lack 
of ability in such an emergency and let me start for 
home without even thanking me. The green eyed monster 
Jealousy might have stung him so hard even then, that he 
forgot all about his benefactor. He asked me many 
more favors after that which I readily granted, as I 
hoped the excitement and worry of that eventful night 
was a sufficient excuse for his seeming lack of apprecia- 
tion. However, I soon began to hear, through others, 
that he was trying to make inroads on my practice by 
sinister remarks and insinuations detrimental to my char- 
acter. He even went so far as to announce, on one 
occasion, that old Stebbins had never done anything for 
him, and that he was under no obligations to him. 

"After hearing that almost incredible story of down- 
right treachery, I asked if I could give my opinion on 
that class of creatures as I had often been stung by them 
myself. Having obtained an audience (as all wanted 
to speak at once) I said, "I have with me a copy of an 
article I once wrote on the subject of ingratitude." I 
handed it out for each to read. One young man who 
seemed very much interested in it, asked if he might read 
it aloud for the company. Having my permission to do 
so, he proceeded as follows: 

HIDEOUS INGRATITUDE 

"Were it possible to correctly and fully describe in- 
gratitude, the task would be so repulsive that the pen 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 135 

of man might shrink from it. Of all the sins of human 
kind, ingratitude is the most despicable and cowardly. 
The man or woman afflicted with this most loathsome 
turpitude, I had almost said, is to be pitied, but no, for 
the disease springs from a vicious temperament, intense 
selfishness, uncontrollable avarice or insane jealousy. 
Weak ingrates have no control over these emotions and 
possibly, after all, a little leniency is due them, for the 
affliction clings to them like mortality to the deceased 
Ethiopian. The biped who must resort to this vile recre- 
ancy for gain, advancement or envy, is absolutely unfit 
for association with honest men. 

"The ingrate is base enough to ask favors from well 
tried friends and to seek the first opportunity or pre- 
text to injure his unsuspecting benefactors. His quondam 
friend is the altruistic unfortunate he is particularly after. 
If he can steal away his good name or otherwise injure 
him, his cup af grudge is more than full, his morbid 
anatomy fairly trembles with a satanic chuckle of hellish 
delight, and a grin of idiotic satisfaction glimmers on his 
simian phiz. 

"The tramp asks favors of philanthropic strangers and, 
in pity, is sometimes even admitted to the family table, 
where he gorges himself with the best the house affords. 
In return, he steals if possible, his host's valuables and 
thereby proves himself a vile ingrate. The snake, a proto- 
type of the ingrate, when frozen, was taken into the warm 
house and thawed out. No sooner was he capable, than 
he viciously implanted his venemous fangs into the very 
hand that saved him. 

"The ingrate robs the dead, aye, even his dead bene- 
factors of their good name. The old adage: Tut a 



136 INCIDENTS OF 

beggar on horseback and he will ride to the devil' was 
inspired when the ingrate, by a freak of fickle fortune, 
became possessed of a little means, and began to show 
his treachery to the very friend who assisted him. 

"Volumes might be written on this unpleasant subject, 
but suffice it to say for the present, that all the effect it 
would have on the above mentioned nondescript would 
be to provoke a silly grin, whenever he held before him 
this veracious mirror, reflecting his true character. 

"He might possibly find a warning in these famous 
lines of the immortal Scott : 

" 'The wretch concentered all in self 
Living, shall forfeit fair renown 
And doubly dying, shall go down 
To the vile dust from whence he sprung 
Unwept, unhonored and unsung/ 

"Base ingrate, reflect on the following golden words of 
Polonius when giving advice to his son Laertes : 

" 'The friends thou hast, and their adoption tried, grapple 
them to thy soul with hooks of steel. 

This above all — to thine ownself be true. And it must fol- 
low, as the night the day, thou canst not then be false to any 
man.' " 

A TRIO OF APT APHORISMS 

"Slander is the solace of malignity." 
"Jealousy is the homage that inferiority pays to merit." 
"A man's most bitter enemy is the 'friend' who can no 
longer keep silent." 

AN UNWELCOME "COMPAGNON DE VOYAGE" 

As I never played cards on shipboard, or anywhere else 
for that matter, I generally passed the time in either 





H 




W 




W 




O 




r 







w 


w 


r; 


C/J 




H 


rt- 




^, 


O 


3 


a 




a 


n 


t^ 


W 


n 


n 
n 


K 


O 




P 


w 


t-i- 


d 


o 


(— 1 






d 


ri 




w 




1— 1 




:z; 




j^ 




o 




g 




w 




EUROPEAN TRAVEL 137 

reading, walking on deck or listening to interesting 
stories told by passengers who frequently gathered in 
groups to while away the time in that manner. As my 
object in taking an ocean voyage was to obtain some- 
thing as near absolute rest as possible, from the ever- 
lasting grind of professional work, I found that the con- 
versational pastime appealed to me more than anything 
else. People from different parts of the world had vari- 
ous experiences which they, in many instances, were 
willing and even anxious to relate. You know if a per- 
son can make himself the hero of some remarkable ad- 
venture he is more than willing to have attentive listen- 
ers. That's human nature and it's all right. 

Among the many stories told on the Steamer La Bret- 
agne I will relate one I heard from a gentleman who had 
the misfortune to be afflicted with an undesirable "com- 
pagnon de voyage," as the French would say. As 1 
could not remember all the details of that remarkable 
story I will quote from the paper of a stenographer who, 
unobserved, took notes and afterwards lent me a type- 
written copy of them. There were some stenographers 
on the ship who made it a business of taking down inter- 
esting conversations, selling their products to their home 
paper or making them the basis of prospective novels. 

The man who was entertaining the little circle was 
evidently an Irish-American. He had seen a good deal 
of the world and had met people of all kinds and classes. 
He was a man between fifty and fifty-five, well preserved 
and had a professional air that would indicate he was 
either a doctor or lawyer. I never ascertained which 
from anything he said, as he seemed to be rather un- 
willing to reveal his identity. After returning to my 



138 INCIDENTS OF 

stateroom I carefully copied the stenographer's trans- 
cript which I here give in full : 

"In July 1901 I made up my mind to take a little re- 
laxation from the cares of business and resolved to take 
a trip to Europe where I had been many times before. I 
had traveled single and double, as the horseman would 
say, and made up my mind from former experience, that 
I would go it alone this time. 

"After carefully arranging my business affairs in such 
a manner that they would go on smoothly during my ab- 
sence and also that if anything should happen to me, my 
estate would be left in a satisfactory condition, I started 
for New York, intending to sail the following day. 

"On my arrival at the steamship dock, whom should 
I meet but an individual I never cared very much for. 
He rushed up to me with outstretched hand and a grin 
of delight, and gleefully informed me that he was to be 
my fellow passenger. He said that he heard, only yes- 
terday, that I was going to Europe and knowing I had 
been there several times before and was an experienced 
traveler, he had made up his mind to go with me and 
secured, at the last moment, passage on the very boat I 
was to sail on and more than that he had even got a 
berth in the same stateroom with me. 

"If a cyclone had struck me, I would not have been 
more disconcerted, as I had fully made up my mind to 
enjoy this particular trip in single blessedness so that I 
could go and come without consulting the wishes of a 
second party. I will admit, however, that a good, genial 
companion with whom you are well acquainted and has 
tastes in accordance with your own, is often a very de- 
sirable adjunct to a European trip, but, when a fellow, 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 139 

whom you don't care for, forces his companionship on 
you, it is often a very serious matter and frequently mars 
the pleasures of the entire journey. So it was in this 
case. 

"The fellow I'm to speak of was a six foot specimen 
of the rough and ready ignoramus who, because he had 
made a little money in the oil regions, felt his oats and 
even his slapjacks of former days and was ready at all 
times and on all occasions to 'rush in where angels fear 
to tread.' 

"After boarding the ship he acted like a cat in a 
strange garret, rushing around from place to place; and 
reminded me of my boyhood days when the old circus 
clown used to run out of the ring and shake hands with 
everybody, without the formality of an introduction. A 
kid with his first pair of red topped boots could not have 
been more tickled than he was at the novelty of the 
surroundings. As to asking questions, he kept sailors 
and passengers busy answering all sorts of conundrums. 
I kept aloof from him as much as possible, for, the 
weather being very warm, it did not take much to make 
me 'fry with the shame.' 

"When we landed on the other side he was at a com- 
plete loss as to procedure. Being perfectly innocent of 
the very rudiments of geography, he was ignorant of the 
relative positions of the different countries and cities we 
were to visit. 

"One of the most unique and silly pieces of impudence 
I ever witnessed was exploited soon after Jim's arrival 
at the Imperial Hotel in Cork. With much attempted 
pomposity he strode awkwardly up to the manager's 
office and demanded paper, pen and ink. With these in 



140 INCIDENTS OF 

hand he hurriedly sat down at the nearest table and 
scribbled off a note to the mayor of the city, telling that 
he had just arrived from America and would like to have 
His Lordship call on him as soon as possible. With the 
air of a scion of the royal blood he ordered a messenger 
to take it as soon as possible to the mayor's office. 
About an hour afterwards a reply came from municipal 
headquarters containing expressions commenting on the 
presumption that I will charitably refrain from repeat- 
ing. 

"Under my careful chaperoning he got along fairly 
well. I tried, under the circumstances, to make every- 
thing as pleasant as possible for him and even went so 
far as to introduce him to my relatives and friends over 
there. On my account he was a welcome guest at their 
homes where we were wined and dined with profuse 
hospitality. I am sorry to say, in passing, that his man- 
ners at table were anything but creditable to the land he 
hailed from. 

"On one occasion we were conducted through a large 
linen mill of Belfast by a gentleman whose affable and 
aristocratic manner would indicate, to the casual observer, 
a man of high position. He carefully explained the dif- 
ferent processes by which the various fabrics were pro- 
duced and patiently showed us through every part of 
the immense establishment. As we were about to de- 
part, my bucolic friend took out his wallet and, with the 
lofty air of a reckless tipster, offered the gentleman a 
shilling for his trouble. The latter looked at him with 
an air of dignified astonishment saying: *Sir, I am the 
proprietor of this establishment,' and suddenly walked 
off without the usual good bye. Here was another pen- 



o 
o 

hj 
W 

a 

M < 
w 

in 

l-H 

H 

so 

in , 



td 



> 

O 

H 
O 



to O 

W 
H 

> 

O 
W 

o 




EUROPEAN TRAVEL 141 

alty I had to endure as the result of unwelcome company. 

"At Glasgow we stopped at the Hotel St. Enoch. It 
is a custom there to announce by bulletin distinguished 
or titled guests on their arrival. As we came down 
stairs one morning I noticed my name among the notable 
arrivals. He scanned the board very anxiously but could 
not see his name there and seemed quite roiled at the 
omission. He excitedly ran over to one of the hall 
porters and asked why his name was not on the bulletin. 
He was told that no names appeared there except those 
of titled persons, professional men and others of note. 
'O, well/ said he, 'my name's not up there because I'm 
only plain Jim Brown.' 

"After Jim had become fairly well posted, by constant 
tutelage, he began to get restless and felt that now, as he 
knew the ropes pretty well, he would venture off alone 
where he could get a little more gay without being 
noticed. 

"One fine morning he skipped away without as much 
as saying good bye. I didn't see any more of him until 
we met at the Southwestern Hotel in Liverpool. While 
there I asked him if he would like to see the famous 
docks. He had never heard of them before, but on my 
description of their magnitude and grandeur and the im- 
mense amount of shipping from all parts of the world, 
he consented to go. 

"As it was his turn to pay the cab fare, I said to him : 
'Jim, when you order a cab in Liverpool it is always pru- 
dent to make a hard and tight bargain with the driver 
before starting, and also to take note of his number for 
they are very quarrelsome chaps and will demand an ad- 
ditional fee on return. If this fellow tries that game, all 



142 INCIDENTS OF 

you have to say is : *IVe got your number' and he will 
immediately subside, being afraid of a complaint reach- 
ing headquarters, which means instant dismissal/ 

"After we had visited the docks and the Steamship 
Oceanic which had just arrived from Belfast on her 
initial trip, we returned to the hotel. When Jim offered 
to pay the cabman, he insolently demanded more than 
was bargained for. Jim spoke up and said: 'I know 
your number, my man, and will report you if you make 
us any more trouble.' Cabby immediately surrendered 
and drove off without any more belligerent demonstra- 
tions. 

There ! didn't I tell you, Jim,' said I, 'that you'd have 
no trouble if you told him you had his number ?' 

"Jim turned on me with a scowl and fiercely said, 
*Huh! mebby you learned me all I ever knew!' This 
outburst was a fair sample of all his pent up malignity. 

"Ignoring this uncalled for insult, I arranged for his 
ticket, stateroom, seat at table and other details and 
even saw him safely aboard his ship. I did not have 
any conversation with him after that until I met him in 
the streets of our home city in the far West." 

"This story is related to you," said the stranger, "for 
the purpose of illustrating the danger of allowing un- 
desirable persons to join you in travel. You cannot be 
too careful in selecting your company for a journey 
which involves so much interdependence and necessarily 
requires great forbearance on many occasions. Tastes 
differ, so do tempers and it is sometimes very difficult to 
have them all run smoothly in the same groove. Never 
allow any undesirable person to travel with you, as it is 
inviting misery, disappointment and often disgust." 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 143 

The above narrative is here recorded with the hope 
that some prospective tourist may profit thereby and learn 
from the experience of an unfortunate. 

OLD FLAN, THE HANDY MAN 

Among the many story tellers on the Steamship Cam- 
pania was a young surgeon who related an experience 
he had a few years before. 

"One stormy day in the month of November, 1898/' 
said he, "I was hurriedly called to an accident that oc- 
curred at a place called Nenagh Hill, not very far from 
my home. As the messenger seemed to be in a desper- 
ate hurry and much excited, I went with him as soon 
as I could have my horse hitched and driven up to the 
door, although many patients were then in the office 
waiting to consult me. You know it is characteristic of 
the enthusiastic surgeon to let all else wait when an ac- 
cident is on. After driving my horse for an hour or 
more over the rough country roads, we reached a little 
cabin at the edge of a dense pine wood. Around it was 
gathered a goodly portion of the neighborhood and all 
was excitement. To make my way to the bedside of the 
patient was almost impossible, as the little home was 
crowded to suffocation with sympathizing friends. Some 
were crying, some were giving orders, while others 
wildly gesticulated in their efforts to tell how the whole 
thing happened. With gentle diplomacy and pertinent 
questions patiently put, I succeeded in getting at the real 
nature of the accident and the cause of it. 

"It appears that the widow Doheny, for that was her 
name, owned a fine brlndle cow of which she was very 
proud. It had recently become the mother of a pretty 



144 INCIDENTS OF 

little calf. They were kept in an enclosure at the back 
of the house. Early that morning the widow went out 
with a generous warm bran mash to feed her proteges. 
The cow, very jealous of her offspring, seemed to think 
the widow's entrance into the pen an unwarranted intru- 
sion and became much agitated. In her frenzy she made 
a mad rush at the frightened woman and tossed her 
high in the air and over the enclosure into the road. 
When picked up she was more dead than alive. Friends 
had carried her into the house and gently laid her on 
the bed before I reached there. After a careful examina- 
tion I found she had sustained, among other injuries, a 
badly broken leg. In my hurried departure from home 
I failed to bring anything for such an emergency. This 
not being the first time I was caught that way, the want 
of regulation splints did not prevent my setting the leg, 
or reducing the fracture, as the surgeons would say, and 
giving it a temporary dressing. Looking about for 
proper material, I was informed that there was nothing 
suitable in the house. One Rodney Flanigan, who stood 
at my elbow, well known in that vicinity as a very handy 
man, kindly volunteered to get me anything I wanted for 
dressings. I asked him if he could procure a few pieces 
of lath or even some shingles. He ran off to a new build- 
ing on the next block and brought back an armful of 
lath and shingles enough to cover a Chinese pagoda. I 
began immediately to prepare the splints, with some help 
and many suggestions from Flan, as they called him for 
short. All being ready, I proceeded to replace the bones 
which was accomplished without much pain to the 
patient but wdth many 'Oh ! Ohs !' from the feminine por- 
tion of the bystanders. 




A VIEW OF PARIS AS PHOTOGRAPHED FROM A 
BALLOON BY THE AUTHOR 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 145 

"During the application of the splints, Flan stood at 
my side intently watching the proceedings. Becoming 
greatly interested, he ventured a few suggestions as to 
their proper adjustment. 'Don't you think, doctor,' said 
he, 'that bit of boord shud be put a little more to the back 
of the gam? Howld on a minute,' continued he, 'your 
stick on the ither side is a bit too short, I think.' I kept 
on at my work without seeming to appreciate his prolific 
and constant flow of wisdom. At last, however, getting 
out of patience with his annoyance but keeping my 
temper, I straightened up from the patient, over whom I 
was leaning, and said in as gentle a voice as I could, 
*Flan, come this way a minute.' This sudden and unex- 
pected invitation created much curiosity in the crowd. 
With an ominous hush and enquiring glances, they won- 
dered what was coming next. I led him around to the 
opposite side of the bed, and gently raising the corner 
of the quilt to the knee, showed him the sound leg of the 
two and asked him what he thought of it. In astonish- 
ment he looked up at me, and holding his chin in his 
hand said: 'Sure, divil a thing's the matther wid that. 
If s as f oine a limb as I ever see. God bless it !' 'Well !' 
said I, with all the solemnity I could muster, 'Flan, you 
will kindly take charge of this leg while I finish dressing 
the broken one.' 

"Grief and condolences were for the time forgotten, 
and all broke out into a hearty laugh at Flan's discom- 
fiture. To this day he frequently is reminded of his 
voluntary suggestions to the surgeon, during the dressing 
of the widow's broken leg on Nenagh Hill. 

"Old Flan's good nature and timely assistance were 
fully appreciated, but when he assumed the responsible 



146 INCIDENTS OF 

position of consulting surgeon, I thought the limit was 
reached. He vividly brought to mind the Latin adage: 
*Ne sutor ultra crepidam' — ^the shoemaker should stick 
to his last." 

A PENALTY OF PATRIOTISM 

Having enjoyed many stories from the passengers of 
the Campania, I at last felt that I should contribute my 
share to the favorite pastime. I therefore gave out the 
following narrative which appeared to entertain my 
hearers. 

"The scene I am about to describe took place in my 
office about twenty-seven years ago. It was to me so 
unique that I told it to a Herald reporter who gave it to 
his paper. Exchanges reprinted it far and wide; even 
the monthly magazines gave it a prominent place in their 
pages. 

"At the time of the incident I was living in Hudson 
street and had an office on the second floor of the Alpha 
Flats. One pleasant evening in July — in fact, it was the 
glorious Fourth — as I was sitting at my window admiring 
the patriotic efforts of the street gamins in their anxiety 
to properly celebrate Independence Day by firing off all 
kinds of blunderbusses and cannon crackers, producing 
general pandemonium, my amusement was somewhat 
rudely disturbed by a great commotion of many men with 
heavy boots scuffling up the stairway. Rushing through 
the door pell mell, a large and excited delegation of deck 
hands soon filled the room. I could not account for their 
sudden invasion, until the leader, a burly specimen of the 
Emerald Isle, tattered and torn, approached me with 
both hands holding fast to his chin. Acting as spokes- 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 147 

man, he said in broken accents: 'Doctor, you'll excuse 
me appearance but, it bein' the Foorth, meself an' a few 
of the byes were having a little divarsion on the hill 
beyant whin one av them gav me a shlap av an owld 
shoe on the jah.' While relating the details of the scrim- 
mage he rapidly walked to and fro and seemed to be in 
great pain. I tried to quiet him and told him to be 
seated that I might make an investigation. On a cursory 
examination I soon ascertained the extent of his injuries 
and said to him: 'Why man, your jaw is broken. How 
could the slap of an old shoe do so much damage ?' 

" 'Ouch ! howld on docther, aisy ! Melia murther youre 
hurtin me. Moind you, there was a fut in that owld 
shoe, and a big wan too.' 

" 'Oh well !' said I, 'that readily accounts for the 
dilapidated condition of your nether masticator.' 

"I set his jaw and wired the separated teeth together to 
make assurance of union doubly sure, and carefully 
swathed his head in snowy white bandages until he looked 
like a Hibernian Turk wearing a holiday turban. 

"He and his companions, after many thanks, walked 
forth from the office with an ominous swagger that por- 
tended little good for 'the haythen that gev him a shlap 
av an owld shoe.' " 



V 

MUTUAL APPRECIATION 

ONE evening we were sitting in the smoking room 
of the Steamship HohenzoUern listening to a 
vioHnist who seemed to be inspired by the roll- 
ing waves of old ocean or the winds whistling around us, 
for he played like one enchanted. After his generous 
number of choice selections was finished, a self-appointed 
master of ceremonies reminded me that I had not as yet 
contributed to the evening's entertainment by singing a 
song or telling a story. I told him I was never found 
guilty of even attempting to sing a song, as I had some 
regard for the feelings of my friends and neighbors. As 
to the story-telling, I would try to entertain them by re- 
lating a bit of history which was in such striking contrast 
to the harrowing tales of ingratitude I had heard the 
night before, that it would prove there is still some grati- 
tude left in this selfish old world for kindness shown, es- 
pecially when one meets real men. 

"Away back in war times I was studying medicine in 
Binghamton under Dr. Brooks as my preceptor. He was 
then the most eminent practitioner in Southern New 
York. I found him a very pleasant gentleman and re- 
mained with him until I entered a medical college. Dur- 
ing my stay there I often heard him speak of Dr. George 
K. Smith, at that time a professor in Long Island Medi- 
cal College. He told me the doctor was once a student 




PANTHEON AT PARIS AND SHRINE OF ST. GENEVIEVE, 
PATRONESS OF THE CITY 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 149 

in his office and spoke very highly of him as a physician 
and a man in the highest sense of the word. When I 
was about to go to New York he gave me a letter of 
introduction to Dr. Smith. This document proved of 
great service, as in the doctor I found a friend who was 
not only willing but eager to grant me any favor I might 
ask. 

"In after years as I was one day standing in my office 
in Syracuse looking out the window, I noticed a young 
man entering a drugstore on the opposite corner. He 
was tall, straight and dignified in manner. As he was 
dressed in dark clothes and wore a long black coat and 
high silk hat, I took him for a minister or a professor 
in some university. 

"While I was still standing there I noticed him com- 
ing out of the store and crossing the street in my direc- 
tion. Soon a rap at the door told the arrival of the 
young man at my home. Entering the office he an- 
nounced himself as a nephew of my old Brooklyn friend, 
Dr. George K. Smith. That was all the recommenda- 
tion I needed, but to supplement this he produced a let- 
ter of introduction from his uncle which was very com- 
plimentary to the young man's past history, and con- 
cluded by hoping I would extend to him the right hand 
of fellowship as he had just graduated from the Uni- 
versity of New York and intended to make Syracuse his 
future home. 

"I was more than pleased to meet the young doctor 
and told him I would be only too glad to advance his in- 
terests in every way I could. He seemed very much 
gratified with his reception, and assured me he would 
fully appreciate anything I might do for him. 



150 INCIDENTS OF 

"After a very pleasant visit he informed me of his in- 
tention to locate in Syracuse. I encouraged him to do 
so, and advised him as to the best part of the city in 
which to begin his professional career. He did as I 
suggested and located in a busy manufacturing district. 
His decision proved a lucky one, for he was soon a 
hustling young practitioner with all he could comfortably 
attend to. 

"As time went on his practice increased so much he 
was obliged to seek larger quarters and, to firmly es- 
tablish himself, he purchased an elegant and commodious 
home. He was honored with many public offices. 
Among them were some of the highest positions in the 
gift of his city and state. 

"His rapidly successful career soon aroused the envy 
and jealousy of some of the medical proletariat. Paying 
no attention to the carping of the Lilliputs, he steadily 
advanced in the estimation of the people until he now 
stands in the front ranks of the profession to which he 
is a credit. 

"The gentleman to whom I refer is Dr. Frederick W. 
Smith of Syracuse, N. Y. He has lately published a 
work entitled 'Essentials of Practical Hygiene,' which is 
considered one of the best on that subject. Among the 
most entertaining and instructive portions of his book 
are the Chapters on Infancy, Adolescence, Maternity, 
Childhood, Moral Hygiene, School Hygiene and Muni- 
cipal Hygiene. It is a work of nearly three hundred 
pages and does honor not only to Dr. Smith but to the 
city of Syracuse, his adopted home. 

"When his book was issued from the press, he pre- 
sented me with the first copy. On opening it I was 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 151 

agreeably surprised to find the following on the first 
page: 

'to my dear friend 

DR. GREGORY DOYLE 

OF SYRACUSE^ N. Y. 

THIS VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED. 

WHEN I BEGAN THE PRACTICE OF 

MEDICINE IN SYRACUSE 

IN 1881, 

I WAS A STRANGER IN A STRANGE CITY. 

I FORTUNATELY MET DR. DOYLE WHO EXTENDED TO ME 

THE RIGHT HAND OF FELLOWSHIP 

IN SUCH A MANNER 

THAT I FEEL I OWE TO HIM AND 

HIS LASTING FRIENDSHIP 

AND PATERNAL ADVICE 

MUCH OF MY PROFESSIONAL SUCCESS.' 

''Here is an act of gratitude from a man who hon- 
estly differs with me in religion and politics and whose 
birthplace is separated from mine by the broad At- 
lantic, but 

"He was a man for a' that." 

"Dr. Smith's magnanimous recognition of my efforts 
in his behalf went a long way to heal a heart lacerated by 
the ingratitude, treachery and abuse of some of my coun- 
trymen and co-religionists who have often asked and re- 
ceived a helping hand and professional advice from me. 

"Hoping, gentlemen of the Hohenzollern, that my re- 



152 INCIDENTS OF 

lation of this true story of my experience with profes- 
sional brethren will be accepted as my contribution to the 
entertainment this evening, I will now retire to my state- 
room as we must have rest on sea as well as on shore. 
Hoping to see you all on deck in the morning, I will now 
say 'Au revoir/ " 






o 



O 

> 

P 
O 

w 

o 
> 




I 



VI 

GERMANY 

IN September, 1889, Mr. Henry A. Smith and the 
author were on their homeward journey after mak- 
ing an extensive tour of Southern Europe. One 
pleasant evening we found ourselves in Frankfort-on-the- 
Main enroute for Mayence-on-the-Rhine. 

A SERIO-COMIC INCIDENT 

On our arrival at Frankfort we boarded a transit 
trolley car which, we were told, would take us to the 
Mayence station on the other side of the city. I seated 
myself in the car while Mr. Smith remained on the rear 
platform to be near the grips which we left there. Shortly 
after we started I heard a great commotion and, as the 
car suddenly stopped, went outside to investigate. I 
found my friend and the conductor out on the street in 
an excited and gesticulating Anglo-German verbal war. 
It appears that the conductor, without making an enquiry 
as to whom the grips belonged, unceremoniously and in- 
dignantly pitched them off the platform into the street. 
Of course my friend went off also to look after our 
property so rudely scattered. Not understanding one 
another, the American and the German made a comical 
attempt at convincing arguments, which Mr. Smith 
adroitly and quickly ended by handing the cantankerous 
little conductor a large silver piece. The argent remedy 



154 INCIDENTS OF 

acted like a charm and the stuffy little tyrant returned to 
his car with the strut of a conquering hero, while Mr. 
Smith and I replaced the grips. 

It appears that no luggage is allowed on the German 
trolleys unless previously arranged for. When we told 
the conductor we wanted to be taken to the other station 
that we might continue our journey on to Mayence he 
carelessly answered "yaw yaw," and we resumed our 
seats. 

This little fiasco being over, we continued our journey 
in peace, until we reached what, we supposed, was the 
neighborhood of the Mayence station. Instead of reach- 
ing the desired spot we were landed in the car barns at 
the edge of the woods, just outside of the city limits. 
That was the last car for the night. Here we were in a 
foreign land among strangers, not knowing what to do 
or where to go. After holding council and considering 
ways and means, we silently, and with humble resigna- 
tion, clutched our ponderous grips and, in the atramental 
darkness, began our silent and weary journey for the 
city, whose glimmering lights we could discern afar off. 
After a long and weary tramp we reached a good looking 
hotel and were glad our toilsome journey was at an end, 
as we supposed, for the night, but disappointment was 
again our lot, for the clerk politely informed us that the 
hotel was filled and that we could not get a room there 
for love or money, as we had not telegraphed in advance 
for one. He directed us to another hotel and we trudged 
on with our heavy grips, only to again meet disappoint- 
ment at the second place. We went to five or six hotels 
with the same result, and only stopped roaming around 
when we were informed by a considerate gentleman that 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 155 

there was a large convention in the city and that all the 
hotel accommodations were spoken for, many days in 
advance. I got rather discouraged at this belated piece 
of information, and firmly resolved that I would go no 
farther that night, but would rest my weary limbs by 
sitting down on my grip and remaining on the street 
until morning. Mr. Smith, who is ever resourceful, was 
suddenly seized with a novel idea. He proposed that 
we hire a hack and ride about the city until broad 
daylight in the morning. I immediately and willingly 
assented. We hailed the first cabby that came along and 
made a bargain with him for a night's lodging. After 
being snugly ensconced in the ancient rig, the sleepier 
of the pair took a much needed snooze, while the other 
remained awake. When a half hour had elapsed he 
aroused his companion and took a nap himself. This 
continued performance was repeated every half hour until 
morning, when each resolved he had had a very good 
night's rest in the street. Welcome daylight having 
dawned, we found a restaurant where we had a sub- 
stantial breakfast and after that succeeded in finding the 
Mayence station. 

MAYENCE 

Mayence, or Mainz, as they call it in Germany, is a fine 
old city on the Rhine with an antique air about it that 
at once enlists the attention of the tourist. Among the 
many notable buildings is the great cathedral with its 
six stately towers. The exterior of the edifice is of 
rather pleasing proportions; its interior however is 
gloomy and presents the appearance of a great mauso- 
leum rather than that of a cheerful house of worship. 



156 INCIDENTS OF 

The walls are nearly hidden with a profusion of gloomy 
statues, blackened by age and fallen into partial decay 
through neglect. Its flooring is made up of well worn 
tiles of various colors, and a large number of marble 
slabs. For the most part the latter are covered with 
memorials of cardinals, bishops and other dignitaries who 
have long since been buried there. In this respect it re- 
minded me very much of Westminster Abbey. 

As every school boy knows, or ought to know, May- 
ence was the home of Gutenberg, the inventor of print- 
ing. For many years before his time impressions, with 
what is known as solid block letters, were made, but he 
was the inventor of the moveable or separate type, an 
achievement that was destined to dominate the world for 
all time to come. 

As a becoming inauguration of so great an art he at 
once set about the task of printing a Latin Bible, and 
persevered in it against many obstacles placed in his 
way by poverty and inexperience, until he was able to 
give an anxiously waiting public the complete work in 
1468. 

Like many benefactors of mankind, poor Gutenberg 
was allowed by an ungrateful people to die in poverty, 
friendless and alone. His death took place in his native 
city Oct. 2, 1468. His marvelous achievement was of 
far greater benefit to mankind than the victories of 
armies or the discovery of the North Pole which has been 
just announced (Sept. 1, 1909). 

There is a charm about those ancient German cities 
that is as unique as some of their old buildings and cus- 
toms. The dress of the laboring classes seems more 
adapted to solid comfort than mere display. With their 



I 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 157 

long pipes and heavy shoes, artisans and laborers leis- 
urely wend their way to daily toil with an air of satis- 
faction that would make a bloated bond holder nervous 
with envy. The frauleins whom one meets on the street 
are pictures of neatness and frugality, as they flit by in 
their comfortable homespun gowns. 

At our hotel near the river I met a gentleman who 
had some trouble in trying to open his trunk as he had 
lost his key. In his distress he asked if I would lend 
him my bunch to see if he could find one that would 
answer the purpose. I readily complied with his request. 
Having found a key that would do the work he returned 
them with many thanks. This little incident led to our 
forming an acquaintance which was found mutually 
agreeable. In the course of our conversation I learned 
that the gentleman was Mr. S. L. Mestrezat of Union- 
town, Pa., a lawyer by profession. (I learn he has since 
been raised to a judgeship in the Supreme Court of Penn- 
sylvania.) 

DOWN THE RHINE 

When we took the boat for a trip down the Rhine to 
Cologne Mr. Mestrezat went with us and proved to 
be a very pleasant "compagnon de voyage." His 
thorough knowledge of the country through which we 
were traveling and the entertaining manner in which he 
utilized it for the benefit of his hearers was very gratify- 
ing and highly appreciated. 

As we proceeded down the famous river he pointed 
out many places of historical note and gave interesting 
descriptions of the various old castles and crumbling 
ruins that adorned its shore. 



158 INCIDENTS OF 

Our first stop was at "Bingen, fair Bingen on the 
Rhine," so famed in the song and story of our childhood 
days. As the sailors were having some difficulty in 
making a landing, the pompous little captain, who was 
giving orders from the deck, attracted our attention by 
his vociferous commands. When things went contrary 
to his ideas he would hop up and down a la jumping 
jack, whirl around like a top and fairly foam at the 
mouth, in his frantic efforts to get out an oath ponder- 
ous enough to suit the occasion. At last, when the boat 
was secured to the dock, he vigorously mopped his 
sweltering brow and strode the deck with the self-satis- 
fied air of a successful commander. 

The antics of the little captain made me think of 
Shakespeare's 

"Man, proud man, 
Drest in a little brief authority, 
Most ignorant of what he's most assured. 
His glossy essence, like an angry ape, 
Plays such fantastic tricks before high Heaven 

As make the angels weep." 

Measure for Measure — Act II, Scene 2. 

Just below Bingen is a little oblong island on which 
is a lonely looking tower where, according to tradition, 
an aged bishop, who had fled from his enemies for safety, 
was devoured by rats. It is known as the Mausethurm 
or Mouse Tower. Perhaps the story was the evolution 
of some disordered brain rather than a verified tradition 
of ancient times. 

Across the river from Bingen is the great national 
monument known as the Guardian of the Rhine or the 
Wacht am Rhein, as the Germans affectionately and 
proudly call it. 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 159 

On a high buff, far above the river, can be seen this 
grand structure. On a granite pedestal of mammoth 
proportions stands a classic figure of Germania holding 
aloft her right hand while her left rests on her sword of 
defence. 

The vineyards that here drape the declivity, down to 
the water's edge, produce the richest wine grapes in the 
country. When at table on the steamer the steward will 
graciously call your attention to the various wine-grow- 
ing sections along the river and at the same time bring 
forth a bottle which he says holds wine from the very 
vineyards you are passing. This announcement was of 
course a bid to purchase a souvenir bottle or two. We 
did not seem to catch on to the idea, however, but allowed 
him to think we believed every word he said. 

When coming out of the salon or dining room the 
charges for meals were collected. It so happened that 
the very steward, who failed to sell us the wine, was the 
collector at the door. I handed him a large treasury 
note and when I counted my change I noticed it was 
about twenty Marks short. I called his attention to it. 
He appeared very indignant that I should doubt his 
ability or honesty, but when I told him I knew German 
money and could not be deceived in that way, he reluct- 
antly handed me the proper change. This attempt to 
defraud me was, no doubt, an act of revenge on his part 
because I did not see fit to purchase his wine. 

THE LORELEI 

A little farther down the river is the famous rock of 
the Lorelei. It is said that the siren from her aerie 
would often lure wandering sailors to the dangerous 



160 INCIDENTS OF 

rocks beneath her, where many of them found a watery 
grave. 

A German poet thus records the legend : 

Lo, yonder sits a maiden 

The fairest of the fair. 
With gold her garments glittering 

As she combs her wavy hair. 

The boatman feels his bosom 

With a nameless longing move. 

He sees not the gulf before him 
His gaze is fixed above. 

I believe o'er boat and boatman, 

In the end, the billows run, 
And 'tis this that with her singing 

By the Lorelei was done. 

I was much amused one day when I happened to come 
across my friend, Mr. Smith, on the after deck, trying 
to hold conversation with a young German. Neither 
could speak the other's language and it was very 
entertaining, to say the least, to watch the working 
hands and shoulders and the grotesque mouthings they 
made in their almost frantic efforts to convey ideas to 
one another. This continuous performance was carried 
on with ridiculous variations until a large crowd of the 
passengers had been attracted to the unusual exhibition 
of linguistic calisthenics. It soon became evident, how- 
ever, that an interchange of ideas between the represent- 
atives of America and Germany was bound to prove a 
failure and the crowd quietly and resignedly dispersed. 

The Rhine is not as large a river as the Hudson but 
it is far more interesting to the tourist on account of its 




THE GREAT STATUE OF THE REPUBLIC AT PARIS 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 161 

many historical associations. I have often sailed down 
the magnificent American river and enjoyed its natural 
scenery. When old Father Time, with his history-mak- 
ing facilities, shall have done, in an artificial way, for the 
Hudson as much as he has for the Rhine, the former will 
surpass in every respect the beauties of the great German 
river. 

COLOGNE 

The most notable monument of all Germany is, of 
course, the great Cathedral of Cologne. In many 
respects it rivals the splendor of St. Peter's at Rome. 
Built in pure Gothic style, it displays a type of archi- 
tecture that is strikingly grand. Once seen, the impres- 
sion is firmly fixed on the mind. All descriptions, so far 
heard, give but a faint idea of its magnificence. It 
must be seen to be appreciated. When I first looked 
upon the great Dom, as they call it there, I stood trans- 
fixed in amazement, while I tried to realize its greatness. 
Its two towering spires, higher than the Washington 
Monument, piercing the very clouds, seemed to challenge 
the listless infidel, while they fortified the faith of the 
devout Christian. 

A curious legend, handed down from the Middle Ages 
in reference to the plans for this great cathedral, is so 
unique that I will here relate an abridged version of it. 

The story goes that the Archbishop of Cologne wished 
his architect to draw plans for a magnificent church; 
in fact, the grandest that had ever been constructed. He 
told him he had sufiicient means for that purpose and 
wished him to spare no expense. To encourage him he 
spoke of the riches that were in store for him and how 
his name would go down in triumph to posterity. He 



162 INCIDENTS OF 

reminded him of the praises of his countrymen and how 
popular he would become for all time. 

This little speech rather encouraged the architect to 
attempt the great undertaking and filled him with visions 
of future glory and renown. To the bishop he made 
answer and said, "My lord, your wishes will be fulfilled." 
He then went oflF to the shore of the classic Rhine 
where he sat down on the sands and became deeply 
absorbed in the great problem proposed by the bishop. 
He planned long and earnestly in every conceivable 
manner but never could arrive at a satisfactory con- 
clusion as to what the great edifice should look like or 
even how to commence its construction. 

One bright morning, while in deep contemplation on 
the vexatious problem, he was approached from behind 
by an old man of swarthy mien, wrinkled and spare in 
form, who touched him on the shoulder with an out- 
stretched bony hand. This act of unexpected familiarity 
caused the architect to start with a shudder and wonder 
whom the stranger might be. As he looked up at the 
old man's face he asked him his mission there. "I am 
here," he said, "to help you with the problem that so 
puzzles your mind and vexes your temper." With that 
he drew forth a wand with which he rapidly traced upon 
the sands the outlines of a magnificent cathedral, but as 
soon as the plans were drawn the waves of the Rhine 
swept them away. He renewed them again and again 
but as often as he did, they were obliterated by the on- 
coming waters. 

The bewildered architect many times sought to retain, 
in his mind at least, the mysterious and fast fleeting plans 
but he was never able to do so. At last in despair he 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 163 

asked the stranger if he would sell them to him. "I will 
pay you any price you ask," said he, "I will give you all 
I own." "I will give it to you," said the man, "your life 
will be considered most happy. Your desires will be 
fulfilled. However, in exchange for all this I will only 
want your soul." 

At the last sentence the architect trembled; his very 
frame shook like an aspen leaf. He then realized the 
fact that the stranger was no less a personage than Satan 
himself. 

Going back to his home the architect was stricken with 
a dangerous illness. He could not sleep, the wildest 
dreams racked his fevered brain. He was sorely tempted 
to sell his soul for the wonderful model, but he hesitated 
to surrender to the Evil One. 

The next morning, after a restless night, the architect 
was found at his accustomed place on the shore of 
the Rhine trying to recall the wonderful plans traced 
by the stranger. He could not remember them; 
try as he might. The continued and mighty strain, the 
result of his futile efforts, caused him to go off into a 
deep swoon from which he did not recover for a long 
time. When he came to himself he found the tempter 
again at his side, when he said to him: "I will accept 
your conditions." "To-morrow, at midnight," said 
Satan, "meet me on these sands and I will give you the 
plan of the proposed cathedral, then you must sign it 
with your blood." 

The architect, full of sorrow and greatly dismayed, 
returned to his humble home. His soul was fairly torn 
with remorse and the thoughts of eternal damnation. 
Not knowing what course to take he went to his con- 



164 INCIDENTS OF 

fessor to whom he confided all. "You will commit no 
sin," said the priest, "if you deceive old Satan himself. 
Meet him at the river, accept from him the plans for the 
cathedral, grasp them suddenly from his hand and at 
the same time flash this relic before his wicked eyes." 
The bewildered man carried out the priest's instructions 
and when Satan saw a portion of the sacred wood of the 
true cross, he cried out, "I am conquered," and instantly 
fled. As he disappeared, a weird wail came back from 
the retreating form which plainly said, "You'll not gain 
anything for your treachery. Your name will not go 
down to posterity." 

Such is the legend that may gain some credence 
among the illiterate but which is looked upon by people 
in general as a very diaphanous bit of folk-lore. 

My impression of the great Dom was that its chaste 
and stately outlines could have been traced only by a 
hand highly skilled in the science of an ecclesiastical 
architecture far in advance of any ever before conceived. 

The interior of the church is grand beyond description 
and strictly in keeping with its Gothic exterior. 

The numerous chapels are wondrous works of art. 

At the rear of the main altar lie the remains of the 
Magi or Three Wise Men of the East, who visited the 
Infant Savior in the stable at Bethlehem. The casket 
itself is of gilded bronze, the front being of pure gold. 
It is opened on the feast of the Epiphany each year, 
when the three bodies can be seen lying side by side. 

A recent discovery has brought to light the fact that 
the architect of the wondrous Dom was Gerard of St. 
Frond. A paper dated 1257 tells us that the Chapter of 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 165 

the Cologne Cathedral gave a house to the architect 
Gerard to recompense him for his excellent work. 

NUREMBERG 

As I stood on the old stone bridge that spans the river 
Pegnitz, which divides Nuremberg into nearly two equal 
parts, I reflected on the antiquity of this ancient burg 
which has been in existence since the Eleventh Century. 
It was early a "City of the Empire" and is to-day one of 
the most important cities in Bavaria. Here the toys 
that delight the children of Christendom are made, and 
many other articles that reach the limits of civilization. 

Among the most interesting sections of Nuremberg is 
that in which is located the King's Summer Castle, 
known as the Kaiserburg. The tourist, if he cares to, 
will be shown through its baronial halls by a polite attend- 
ant. We were much interested as we inspected the 
deserted apartments, formerly scenes of so much festal 
gaiety and royal splendor. Here Barbarossa prepared 
himself for the Holy Wars. Sigismond and Charles V. 
were also familiar with this regal home as were many 
Bavarian monarchs of old. 

There is a lime tree in the court yard said to have been 
planted over eight hundred years ago by the Empress 
Kunigunde. We were shown a high wall over which a 
horseman leaped with his steed to the moat below, a 
distance of some eighty feet. Man and horse escaped 
injury and fled from pursuers who failed to overtake 
them. 

Eppelein von Gailingen, for that was his name, a 
brigand, a freebooter, in fact a sort of a Bavarian Dick 
Turpin, was captured after many futile efforts by the 



166 INCIDENTS OF 

Nuremberg soldiers and confined in the prison near the 
Castle. One morning he was led out to execution and 
as the headsman was about to obey the order of the 
King, the captive asked one last favor which was a 
strange one for a man so near the confines of eternity. 
He spied his favorite horse standing with others in the 
prison yard and requested the privilege of bidding him 
a fond farewell. This was granted, as apparently no 
possible harm could come from it. The robber brigand, 
for such he really was, had no sooner placed his hands 
upon the horse's neck than he quickly swung himself 
into the saddle and made a dash for the ramparts, over 
which both safely went, to the utter astonishment of the 
soldiers and would-be executioner. 

CHAMBER OF TORTURE 

We visited the famous Chamber of Horrors which is 
also near the palace. It is surely well named, for I 
never could believe that such a collection of instruments 
of torture could be made or that the evil genius of man 
could invent such diabolical ways and means for inflict- 
ing agony on his fellow man. 

Instruments of torture, peculiar to different ages and 
nations, civilized and savage, meet the eye on every hand. 
Many thousands are in the collection, no two of them 
being alike. The most conspicuous of them all is per- 
haps the Iron Virgin, an apparent personification of all 
deviltry. She stands in the center of a great room on 
the ground floor, a fit, ferruginous deity to preside over 
her companions in cruelty. On close inspection I found 
her but a hollow mockery after all. Her cloak of iron, 
being laid open, displayed a lining bristling with polished 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 167 

spikes. When a victim was taken to her "heart" she 
relentlessly and firmly embraced him in such a manner 
that the spikes were driven into all parts of his body, 
even his very face and eyes. When the unfortunate 
had ceased to complain, the cloak was opened, and his 
lifeless body was allowed to drop into the river below, 
after being sliced by knives which it struck on its way 
down. 

Long legged copper boots were shown which, having 
been heated nearly red hot, prisoners were forced to put 
on and run around in. The deadly Russian knout hung 
on the walls. It consisted of a short, stout handle to 
which were attached several strips of strong black leather. 
These were knotted in several places, each knot being 
supplemented with steel burrs wickedly pointed. When 
looking at it, I could not refrain from thinking of the 
many poor serfs who had succumbed to its cruel strokes, 
laid on by the sturdy hand of some cowardly servant of 
the Czar. 

A cradle was there also. Yes, a genuine cradle, 
rockers and all. It was too large for a child and rather 
uncomfortable for an adult. About eight feet in length 
by three feet wide at the top, and narrowing to the bottom, 
it was built of heavy pine. Through its sides and bottom 
were driven sharp spikes about six inches in length, 
the points projecting into its cavity. When prisoners 
had committed some fault of discipline they were 
stripped, thrown naked into this cradle and rocked vigor- 
ously until the spikes had so mangled their flesh as to 
either cause lifelong deformity or a lingering and cruel 
death. 

To describe the endless variety of instruments of tor- 



168 INCIDENTS OF 

ture displayed in that old museum would exhaust the 
reader's patience and perhaps provoke him to say some 
unpleasant things about the cruelty and cowardice of 
bygone days. 

During our Columbian Exposition the Managers 
wished to show these instruments, but could not get the 
loan of even a small portion of the collection, as no com- 
pany could be found willing to assume the risk of trans- 
portation. 

In the prison yard is an old, deep well, the bottom of 
which is connected with a secret passage which leads to 
the lower part of the town. Many prisoners of the guard 
house, near by, have made their escape through it. In 
olden times it was used for strategic purposes. 

Our hotel in Nuremberg was formerly a royal palace 
and is located on one of the main streets. Our room on 
the second floor was paved with vitrified brick of an 
odd design. The walls were thick and the windows nar- 
row. In fact all its fixtures and furniture were very an- 
tique, forcibly reminding us that we were then in the 
oldest city of Bavaria and one of the most ancient in 
Germany. 

AN ANTIQUE FIRE CO. 

As we were sitting near the window one pleasant even- 
ing we heard a great racket down the street and, looking 
out, beheld a sight that would make the angels smile. 
It was nothing more nor less than a fire company running 
to some real or imaginary conflagration. Six men of 
uncertain ages were rushing down the street and yell- 
ing for all they were worth. Attached to them, by means 
of a long rope, was a large platform wagon which they 




CASTLE GREGORY 
A memorial to our only son who was but shown to Earth and taken away 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 169 

were dragging along the street. On this odd looking 
vehicle was a tub which looked like the segment of a 
hogshead. This was furnished with a large hand pump 
which was to do duty at the fire. I was quite sure the 
flames would soon be squelched if yelling would do it. I 
had no serious idea that the exhibit was a sample of the 
fire department of Nuremberg but indulged in the 
thought that it might be a remnant of an ancient and 
honorable aggregation that existed in the days of yore. 



VII 

SWITZERLAND 

AFTER a sojourn of two weeks in Paris we left that 
gay metropolis for Switzerland. A pleasant ride 
of twelve hours brought us to Geneva near the 
eastern boundary of France. This thriving little city is 
beautifully situated on a lake of the same name and some- 
times known as Lake Lemain, at a point where the blue 
waters of the restless Rhone rush forth in a great tor- 
rent on their rapid course to the sea. 

At Geneva commences the wild mountain scenery so 
much enjoyed by tourists going to Lucerne. As we 
passed along through deep gorges and over rocky cliffs, 
expressions of wonder and awe among the passengers 
were frequent, sudden and sometimes boisterous. You 
could not blame them, for the panorama passing before us 
fairly defied any attempt at truthful description. I often 
wondered where painters got their ideas of varied and 
rich coloring in mountain landscapes, but when I beheld 
the gorgeous hues — purple, blue, red, emerald and in fact 
all the shades of the rainbow — ^that lit up the craggy 
peaks of the towering Alps, I realized that Nature her- 
self had taught them the lesson. 

The ancient town is famous for telescopes, watches 
and Calvin himself, not forgetting Voltaire and Rosseau. 
Berne was our home for one brief night. This being the 
capital of Switzerland makes it a city of great impor- 
tance to the natives. The bear being the national animal, 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 171 

its effigy is to be seen on almost every corner, in the 
parks and even in the hallways of the hotels ; and to make 
sure that bruin is not forgotten he is kept in luxurious 
style on the banks of the Aare, a river that flows through 
the city with the velocity of a mountain torrent. 

Interlaken, our next rest, is the Saratoga of Switzer- 
land. In summer it is thronged with people from all 
parts of the world. Being a health resort, at this time of 
the year, many invalids take advantage of the refreshing 
climate. Here the famous Jungfrau raises its peak near- 
ly 14,000 feet. On a bright day its top, covered with 
a mantle of eternal snow, can be seen from a great dis- 
tance. But two or three people have ever succeeded in 
reaching its summit on foot. Several have been maimed 
or killed in the attempt. 

Wood and ivory carving are the main industries of In- 
terlaken and here can be found the finest work of this 
kind. 

Allowing Interlaken to remain nestled between its 
mountain lakes, we started for Lucerne, the pride of all 
Switzerland. On our way we crossed the Alps by the 
famous Brunig Pass, our engine crawling up the precipit- 
ous mountain side by means of cog and pinion. All 
along, even to the summit, are little tents or cabins, pre- 
sumably shepherds' homes, built here and there on ledges 
of rock that would seemingly defy the climbing of a 
Rocky Mountain goat. 

Everybody visits the Rigi, or ought to, so we made the 
pilgrimage. It can be plainly seen from the city of Lu- 
cerne, as it is only fifteen miles away. Arriving at its base 
after a pleasant ride on the lake, we boarded the waiting 
train and were pushed by the engine to the summit along 



172 INCIDENTS OF 

a cogged railway that rises one foot in every four. We 
feared at times that our car would stand on end, so 
steep were some of the grades. Once on the top, we 
exclaimed in the words of the inevitable small boy, 
"How's that for high?" We were nearly six thousand 
feet up. Disappointment met us here, as we could hardly 
see one another in the nebulous atmosphere. However, 
we consoled ourselves by humming the old refrain, 
"Wait till the clouds roll by." Presently an accommodat- 
ing zephyr from the direction of old Pilatus swept away 
the unwelcome clouds, and behold, down in the far-off 
valley of Lucerne, lay the beautiful azure lake, dotted 
with busy craft. Around it arose, in all their majestic 
glory, the snow clad Alps with the purple skies beyond — 
a scene never to be forgotten. 

RIDING THROUGH THE ALPS 

As we could not always enjoy this beautiful region we 
journeyed on to Milan where we arrived in the evening. 
This last stage of our route was the most interesting and 
remarkable of all. Taking the St. Gothard train we tra- 
versed the Alps and shooting through scores of tunnels 
we rattled on until -sye reached the famous St. Gothard. 
This is nine and one quarter miles long and half an hour 
was consumed in passing through it. The noise of the 
train and the echoes, as we rushed along in the darkness, 
reminded us of a terrific hailstorm with every stone as 
big as a butternut rattling on the roof of our car. The 
heat, gases and fuliginous vapors were very oppressive. 
Just before reaching this great tunnel the railroad makes 
six complete circles, winding around and going through 
the mountains. We noticed one little white church far 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 173 

up in the Alps that we passed three times while we were 
going along. The first time we passed it, it was far 
above us, the next time it was some distance below and 
the third time we passed, it was still farther below us. 
This circumstance fairly illustrates the winding way of 
our course. Emerging from the upper tunnel we could 
see far beneath the tracks we had traversed a few minutes 
before. Instead of making direct headway we followed 
the work of the most stupendous railway engineering ever 
before accomplished. 

TOMB OF ST. CHARLES BORROMEO 

Coming from under the mountains we passed along the 
beautiful Italian lakes and finally reached the great city 
of Milan. Here, of course, we visited the famous ca- 
thedral. Its magnificence I will not attempt to describe, 
as it has so often been written of. We ascended to the 
roof where we could admire its unique and unrivaled 
architecture and from which we obtained a comprehen- 
sive view of the historic city. Before leaving the noble 
edifice we traversed its spacious isles. Among the many 
objects of interest we were shown was one of the nails 
which, it is said, fastened Christ to the cross. Descend- 
ing into the crypt we saw the sepulchral chapel of St. 
Charles Borromeo. It is octagonal in form, the walls 
being covered with heavy plating of solid silver which is 
ornamented with high rilievos and is fairly hidden from 
view by a large number of rich, votive offerings of the 
admirers of the saint. This chapel is said to have cost 
over $800,000. The attendant lets down the front of the 
outer covering and there, inclosed in an inner casket of 
rock crystal and gold, can be seen the body of the saint. 



174 INCIDENTS OF 

clothed in his pontifical robes with face uncovered. The 
body was successfully embalmed, as the features, although 
darkened with age, remind one of a person in a deep, and 
peaceful sleep. On his finger is still the episcopal ring 
and by his side lies his golden pastoral staff or crosier, 
ornamented with a profusion of precious stones. 

On the wall just above the casket is to be seen a por- 
trait which was painted during his life. In the features 
of the remains, even at this day, can be distinguished a 
complete likeness of that depicted above. 

St. Charles was born October 5, 1538, in the castle of 
Arona upon the borders of Lake Major, fourteen miles 
from Milan. He was the son of Gilbert Borromeo, Count 
of Arona and Margaret of Medicis. The family of Bor- 
romeo is one of the most ancient in Lombardy. St. 
Charles died November 4, 1584. He has therefore been 
dead about 324 years, and his body is to-day in a good 
state of preservation ; so much so, as I have stated above, 
that the features are readily recognizable, a very remark- 
able circumstance when we consider how rapidly a body 
decays after the spirit has left it. 

As St. Charles was one of the most remarkable men of 
his time or, in fact, of any age, I feel it will interest my 
readers if history be briefly repeated. On account of his 
extraordinary talents and studious application he rapidly 
advanced in learning and wisdom and soon reached the 
goal of his most ardent desire — the priesthood. He ad- 
vanced from one dignity to another until he was made 
Cardinal Archbishop of Milan. So pure was his life 
and so strict, he was called the model for pastors 
and the reformer of ecclesiastical discipline. As 
good as he was, he was often maltreated by his inferiors 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 175 

and those who were jealous of the esteem in which he was 
held. He always bore those insults and attacks with 
wonderful humility and fortitude. Instead of seeking re- 
venge, he pleaded for the pardon of his enemies and even 
went so far as to do them a kindness when possible. 
On the 26th of November, 1569, a villian posted himself 
at the door of the chapel in the archbishop's palace whilst 
the prelate and his family were at their devotions. The 
assassin, who was about five or six paces away, discharged 
at him a blunderbuss loaded with a large bullet and small 
shot. At the report, every one stood up in the utmost 
confusion and consternation, but the saint, without stir- 
ring from his place, made them a sign to kneel down 
again, and finished his prayer with the same tranquility as 
if nothing had happened. Imagining himself mortally 
wounded, he lifted up his hands and eyes to God and of- 
fered his life to him. But after the prayer was finished, 
rising up, he found that the large ball had only struck 
upon his cassock near the dorsal vertebrae or the small 
of the back, without penetrating the clothing. Some of 
the small shot had pierced his clothes, but stopped at the 
skin and left small swellings and discolorations which re- 
mained to the time of his death. St. Charles earnestly 
pleaded for the life of the assassin but the government 
ordered him beheaded. 

St. Charles ate very sparingly and only the coarsest food 
when on his mission through the villages of Levantine, 
Bregno and Riparie, subject to the Swiss cantons of Uri, 
Switz and Undrewald; for the see of Milan is extended 
in the Alps as far as Mount St. Gothard. The saint 
traveled through snows and torrents and over rocks which 
were almost inaccessible, having iron spikes on his shoes 



176 INCIDENTS OF 

to climb them ; suffering with cold, hunger and continual 
weariness. Large legacies which were left to him he 
gave over to the church or to the deserving poor. 

What a contrast is the life of St. Charles Borromeo to 
some of the so-called dignitaries of the present day. A 
man of royal blood, high position and transcending 
talents, he was humble, charitable and magnanimous to 
the highest degree. He was ever anxious for the welfare 
of his diocese and for all under his jurisdiction ; rich, poor 
or unfortunate. He had no cronies and associated with 
no cliques. All were equally welcome to his friendship 
and paternal advice. He sought no trivial amusements, 
nor did he leave his people for his own pleasure under the 
pretext of a "much needed rest." The Lenten days 
ever found him at his post of duty, encouraging the devo- 
tions of that holy season. He would listen to no idle 
stories detrimental to members of his flock. If such tales 
were brought him he would demand that the accused be 
heard before he would render a decision. His love for 
God's lowliest creatures proved him an ideal Christian. 
He would not allow a bird or the smallest quadruped to 
be wilfully harmed by hunters seeking cruel sport. 
Would that many of his like governed the church militant 
of our day and generation. 

THE LAST SUPPER 

After leisurely viewing the great Cathedral and its 
many priceless treasures, Mrs. Doyle and I went over to 
see the famous fresco of the Last Supper, the creation of 
Leonardo da Vinci. This truly great man was born in 
1452 at Vinci, a fortified village in the Florentine terri- 
tory near Empoli, from which his father's family derived 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 177 

its name. He died in 1519. Like Michael Angelo he 
was a man of wonderful and diversified talents. Consid- 
ering the range of his speculative as well as that of his 
practical powers, he seems certainly the man whose 
genius has the best right to be called universal of any who 
ever lived. In the fine arts he was the most accom- 
plished painter of his generation and one of the most bril- 
liant scholars that the world has ever produced. He 
was also a distinguished sculptor, architect and musician. 
The famous fresco of the Last Supper was painted on 
the refectory wall of the convent of Santa Maria della 
Grazie which is but a few steps from the great cathe- 
dral. Leonardo consumed ten years at this work. The 
picture is now but a ruin of what it was. The combined 
destruction of time and dampness has since been accel- 
erated by the vandalism of men, until the original has 
almost disappeared, especially as to the colors. The out- 
lines, however, are suificiently plain to emphasize the 
former magnificence of the great work. Many artists 
from different parts of the world were there making 
copies of the fresco and some of their work showed great 
artistic skill. We were importuned by the painters to 
buy, but the price being as high as the pictures were 
grand, we deferred negotiations until a future visit. 

BEAUTIFUL LUCERNE 

In the midst of "war and rumors of war" it is oft a 
consoling change to reflect on peaceful portions of the 
world, countries not harassed by contending foes or 
threatened by death-dealing armies. Such a place, just 
now, is Switzerland, the home of the happy mountaineer 
and the contented law-abiding Tyrolese.* 

* Written duringf our war with Spain. 



178 INCIDENTS OF 

The most interesting city in this delightful portion of 
the globe is Lucerne, the queen of the Alpine lakes. No 
European visitor should consider his tour complete with- 
out a sojourn in this ancient and beautiful city. It had 
its origin in the 14th century, and was then surrounded 
by walls and battlements, most of which still remain in 
a fair state of preservation. Quaint old bridges, built 
hundreds of years ago, are still in use. Many ancient 
structures of odd architectural design form a pleasing 
contrast with the more modern buildings. 

In the middle of the River Reuss, the outlet of Lake 
Lucerne, on which the city is situated, is an old octagonal 
lighthouse which, in ancient times, displayed from its 
pinnacle a lantern or "lucerna." That gave to the city 
its name. This lighthouse or tower is now used as a 
shop where souvenirs and curios are sold. It is ap- 
proached from the mainland by an old covered chapel 
bridge, the interior of which is decorated with mytholog- 
ical frescoes of most weird and fantastic designs. 

This city is well supplied with hotels for the accommo- 
dation of summer visitors. Although but 20,000 inhabi- 
tants make it their permanent home, it has over fifty 
hotels and "pensions" or inns. 

Across the lake from the city looms up the great 
Mount Pilatus. It was thus named from an ancient tra- 
dition which relates that after Pilate had allowed the 
crucifixion of Christ, he fled in remorse to this lofty 
mountain where he remained for some time and after- 
wards smothered his grief in the crystal depths of Lake 
Lucerne. 

The Glacier Mills, the wonder and pride of geologists, 
are shown to the visitor in the suburbs of the city. In 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 179 

ages long gone, immense boulders were carried down the 
mountain's side by the glaciers and, when they reached 
the plains, were whirled around so long and continuously 
that great holes were worn in the hard bed rock. Some 
of these bowl-shaped cavities are over 30 feet in depth 
and about 20 feet in diameter. The great boulders, 
rounded to complete spheres some ten or twelve feet in 
diameter, are to be seen in the bottom of the cavities 
worn by them. 

The great Lion of Lucerne, fully as famous as the 
Lion of St. Mark's in Venice, is one of the wonders of 
the city. It is near the garden of the Glacier Mills. 
Carved from the rock, high up in the mountain's side, 
the magnificent form reposes with all the dignity inher- 
ent to the king of beasts. It was designed by Thorwald- 
sen the famous Danish artist, and executed in mammoth 
proportions by skilled workmen. It represents a 
wounded lion protecting the emblem of Switzerland, and 
commemorates the men of the Swiss Guard who were 
slain while defending the Tuileries in Paris on the tenth 
day of August, 1792. 

The ancient twin-tower church of St. Leodegar is 
located on rising ground near the shore of the lake, and 
possesses a fine organ and a magnificent chime of bells. 
The music of the latter rivals in sweetness the famous 
bells of Shandon on which I had the honor of intoning, 
"Home, Sweet Home." 

The cemetery surrounding this church is renowned for 
its beauty. It is a veritable garden in itself, adorned 
with white gravel walks, garnished with well-trimmed 
boxwood and rare plants. Numerous magnificent mauso- 
leums greatly contribute to the solemn grandeur of this 



180 INCIDENTS OF 

silent city of the dead. No one seems to have been for- 
gotten, no matter how long buried. Every grave is as 
carefully looked after as if made but yesterday. The 
taste here displayed in cemetery ornamentation, might be 
well imitated in our own land. 

I found the Swiss a most hospitable people and, after 
having sojourned in Lucerne for a fortnight, I was loth 
to leave it. The people are industrious and thrifty. 
There are no paupers or millionaires in Lucerne. The 
prosperous help the struggling and no cases of indigence 
are beheld as in other countries. 

All children must receive an education. Parents 
neglecting or refusing to send them to school are fined, 
and if the parent persist in his refusal, he is punished by 
imprisonment. If such laws were in force in Syracuse, 
it would keep our Board of Education pretty busy; in 
fact, there would be no time for politics. 

FIN AND FEATHER BATTLE 

In Lucerne we stopped at a hotel called the Waage or 
the Balances. I suppose the latter name was given it 
for the reason that a large market is situated just beneath 
it, and the weighing scales used there may have sug- 
gested the name. It is a very fine up-to-date hotel and 
kept in the best manner. While here we were much 
amused by a novel exhibition. The river Reuss, an out- 
let of Lake Lucerne, flows directly past the rear of the 
Waage. In the afternoons we frequently fed the wild 
ducks and fishes with which the river abounds. It was 
very interesting and exciting to witness the strife be- 
tween the feathered and finny tribes to capture the frag- 
ments of bread thrown to them. The river here is 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 181 

about twenty feet deep and the water is so clear that the 
gravelly bottom can be plainly seen. This favorable con- 
dition rendered it very easy to note every movement of 
the fish in their battle with the ducks. Sometimes a 
large fish would catch a duck by the foot and try to 
drag it under the water, but the duck, by spreading out 
its wings, deftly outwitted the fish. When the fish were 
not too large the ducks would try to capture them for a 
feast. 

My friend, Nicholas G. Peters, who enjoyed the sport 
with me, also proved himself an adept at mountain climb- 
ing and a scientific mariner on the lakes. He was so 
continually on the go that I was almost forced to be- 
lieve he was about to solve the vexatious problem of per- 
petual motion. 

AN INCIDENT AT THE WAAGE 

In this hotel the dining room is very large. During 
mealtime the guests are entertained by an excellent or- 
chestra which adds another item of cheerfulness to the 
pleasant surroundings. An apparently trivial, but, to 
me, a significant incident took place which charmingly 
illustrated the well known cordiality of the Swiss. A 
few years ago, during a visit to Lucerne, I met Adolph 
Aueron, Professor of Languages. He invited me to his 
home and introduced me to his interesting little family, 
with whom I spent a very pleasant evening. On my last 
visit I called on the family but the professor was absent. 
Disappointed at not meeting him, I returned to my 
hotel, where I arrived just in time for dinner. When the 
meal was about half over I was summoned to the door 
where a young, fair-haired lass of some fifteen summers 



182 INCIDENTS OF 

was waiting with a large bouquet of roses. She said her 
father had sent them with his compliments and regretted 
very much that he was absent when I called. I immedi- 
ately led the young lady to our table at the farther 
end of the room, told her to place the flowers in the 
center of the table and invited her to join us at dinner. 
Our party of eight, which occupied a large table, compli- 
mented her on the beautiful gift and when I told them 
the occasion of it, the social customs of her native land 
formed the subject of a very pleasant conversation around 
the festive board. Not to be outdone by the chivalry of 
the Swiss mountaineers, I gallantly escorted the young 
miss across the ancient bridge that spans the rapid waters 
of the Alpine Reuss, and left her safe at her father's 
door. 

I have visited Lucerne four different times, (in 1882, 
1889, 1893 and 1903) and on each occasion I found it 
the most delightful resting place in my whole European 
tour. The lofty Alps, perennially snowcapped, standing 
guard as it were, around the bright blue waters of the 
mountain lakes and holding eternal vigil over the ancient 
little city that so cozily nestles at their feet, profoundly 
impress the beholder with the strange sublimity and 
awful grandeur of the scene. 

As a pleasure resort, Lucerne is not surpassed by any 
in the world. People from all countries make it the 
Mecca of their summer tours. To behold the gay equip- 
ages and superb costumes of the pleasure-seeking 
throngs one would think, for the time being at least, that 
life was really and truly worth living, especially amid 
such pleasures and in such charming surroundings. 

No tourist, however hurried, should fail to visit lovely 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 183 

lakeside Lucerne, the gem of the Alps. I was so well 
pleased with my visits there that I photographed many 
points of interest. 



VIII 

IRELAND 

APPROACHING Ireland, the voyager is profound- 
ly impressed with the grandeur of her emerald 
mountains, skirted with plains of richest ver- 
dure. Encircled with lofty, gray and purple cliffs, garn- 
ished with foamy crests of old ocean's stormy waters, 
she certainly deserves the title: "Gem of the Sea." 

Queenstown harbor, which was formerly known as the 
Cove of Cork, is the largest in the world. The com- 
bined fleets of all nations could there meet and be well 
cared for during any tempest that might occur. The 
City of Cork, which is at the head of navigation on the 
river Lee, is active, enterprising and up to the times 
in modern improvements. As we approached the city 

"The Bells of Shandon, 
That sound so grand on 
The pleasant waters of the river Lee," 

were pouring forth their sweet melodies across the silv- 
ery waters of the silent river. The ancient city wore 
an air of contentment, quite at variance with most of our 
American towns. 

The streets of Cork are very irregular and innocent of 
geometrical precision. St. Patrick's Street, the main 
thoroughfare, is wide but very crooked. It must have 
developed from the aimless trail of prehistoric fauna. It 






>! 




_ (T> 




2 fD 




s-* 


H 


ii5- 


M 


o — . 


M 


j3 n 




3 


O 


O IK! 




> 


b "' 


H 


3 f^ 


r 




1— 1 
o 


en 2 


i^ 


3 q 






O 


cro 


^ 


<T S^ 




L_,P- 


r 


0^ 


a 


5." 

en ?i* 


n 


^ ^ 


^ 


W P 


:^ 


'^ r1- 




tt.i^ 




tn rc 






EUROPEAN TRAVEL 185 

is, however, now lined with magnificent stores, hotels and 
busy marts. A fine statue of the famous temperance 
apostle, Father Mathew, stands in an enclosure in the 
middle of the street, near the handsome bridge that 
crosses the river Lee. 

I found the people of Cork very polite and hospitable. 
Their manner of doing business in the stores, however, 
strikes the average American as somewhat strange. 
When one enters a business establishment to make a pur- 
chase he looks about in vain for some one to come for- 
ward and inquire as to his wants. He would be left 
standing in the middle of the floor for an indefinite time 
if he waited for the proprietor or a clerk to approach 
him. When he wishes to buy, he must hunt up a clerk 
and having found him, the latter personage, in a very 
formal manner, graciously condescends to answer 
his questions and possibly to wait on him. I 
found this condition of affairs in nearly every store I 
entered in the British Isles. The knights of the yard- 
stick really seem to think it a condescension, on their 
part, to wait on a customer. How different it is in 
America, where a clerk or the gentlemanly floor walker, 
meets you at the door and kindly asks of what service 
he can be to you. Often, in appreciation of his polite- 
ness, you are induced to buy merchandise that you are 
not actually in need of. I remember being in Dublin one 
day when I wanted some slight repairs made for the 
only eye glasses I had with me. I called on an optician, 
he looked the glasses over ceremoniously and politely 
informed me that he could not fix them until the follow- 
ing day. As I could not get along without glasses for 
that length of time, I walked away with an unfavorable 



186 INCIDENTS OF 

opinion of his procrastinating style of doing business, 
and purchased a new pair at a rival shop across the 
street. I purposely relate the above incidents to illus- 
trate the difference between our folks and those across 
the water, in the manner of doing business. 

THE TIPPING NUISANCE 

As Cork was the first city where I made a sojourn 
after landing, it was also the first place where I had an 
opportunity to experience the disagreeable features of 
the tipping nuisance in all its "glory." It was tip to 
the right of you, tip to the left of you, and tips all 
around, until you began to wonder if you would be 
obliged to tip the very atmosphere that gave you life. 
I asked a little urchin in the street where the postoffice 
was. "Well, sorr," said he, "if you'll give me tuppence 
I'll tell ye." Ignoring his intended benevolence, I walked 
on a few steps, when the post-office loomed up just 
around the corner. 

In the hotels and railroad stations and, in fact, every- 
where, the tipping fever rages like a plague, as every- 
one knows who has been abroad. It is one of the cus- 
toms that tends to mar the pleasure of the tourist, and 
is very annoying to any one going there to seek rest from 
cares of business or to improve his health. It often 
makes one irritable and disgusted with a certain stratum 
of humanity. Sensible Americans are more than willing 
to pay for all services properly rendered, but they do not 
liked to be imposed upon, and the tipping system is cer- 
tainly an outrageous imposition. 

When an American goes into a hotel, he expects and 
is willing to pay all legitimate bills presented. He is 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 187 

willing to reward an attendant for any extra services, 
but does not wish to be frowned upon if he should for- 
get to pay the expected toll. The custom of tipping 
was probably inaugurated by royalty in the days of long 
ago, and is now kept up mostly by sychophants who wish 
to imitate the lords of the manor. The shoddy aristoc- 
racy, who have more money than brains, are extremely 
anxious to exploit their wealth on the least pretext. 
They have trained the dependents to expect a tip for 
every accommodation rendered, be it ever so trivial. 

I stopped at the Hotel Havana on my first visit to 
Liverpool, and remained there about a week. At the 
end of my sojourn I paid my bill and therefore supposed 
I was free from all further obligations. What was my 
surprise on leaving the hotel to find that the main hall 
of exit was lined up on both sides with servants, male 
and female, with outstretched hands appealing for tips. 
Of course I had to "come down" or suffer the conse- 
quences which would be a jeering chorus and a volley of 
uncomplimentary epithets. It is not very likely that a 
tourist would visit such a hotel the second time or recom- 
mend it to his friends. 

The Great Northwestern Hotel in Liverpool, where 1 
stopped on my last visit to that city, does not allow tip- 
ping. Signs are there displayed announcing the fact. 
The consequence is that this hotel is largely patronized 
by, and is a favorite resort for, many Americans. 

Hotel and restaurant proprietors make a great mis- 
take in allowing their help to become beggars. If they 
would pay them sufficient wages it might somewhat 
abate the tipping nuisance and elevate the tone of their 
house. One very tantalizing feature about this custom 



188 INCIDENTS OF 

is that the tourist does not know how much he is ex- 
pected to give. If his tip is too little, he is looked upon 
as a tightwad and is probably more neglected than if 
he had given nothing. If the tip is very ample, he is 
often called an "easy mark," and so it goes. I am told 
that tips are now regulated on a percentage plan by an 
association of waiters, but that does not ameliorate the 
nuisance. 

LOVE OF COUNTRY 

A man who loves not his native land is a social out- 
cast, fit only for treason and tribulation. His name 
should be Anathema, and his fate that of the traitor. 
Even if his unfortunate country is throttled to earth by 
the ruthless invader, he should not basely turn his back 
upon her any more than he would on a friend in distress. 
I am sorry to say that in America and even in Ireland, we 
find men so unpatriotic as to aid and uphold the very 
rulers who try to belittle them. What other nation on 
earth can produce men who will even glory in the dis- 
comfiture of their native land! An indifference to pat- 
riotism and a difference in religion has much to do with 
it. The immortal lines of Scott should waken them up to 
a sense of patriotic duty : 

"Breathes there the man, with soul so dead 
Who never to himself has said, — 
This is my own, my native landl" 

A trip through Ireland has a fascination for every true 
and filial son of that historic land. I assure you that it 
has charms for me that can never be effaced. Although 
less than a year old when my parents brought me to 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 189 

America, I still revere my native soil — ^the home of my 
ancestors. 

For the benefit of those young Irishmen and sons of 
Irishmen who, through ignorance or something worse, 
seem to evade their nationality whenever opportunity 
presents, I make the following quotations. When they 
shall have read them I hope they will develop a patriotic 
pride which is the shining characteristic of all truly great 
men. 
From an article, in the New York Sun of June 24, 1908, 

by J. F. Healy: 

"Ireland was the teacher of the proudest nations of 
Europe from the fifth to the tenth century and laid the 
foundation of modern civilization. The annals of Cen- 
tral and Western Europe, the monastic chronicles, the 
churches, the lives of medieval saints, the martyrologies, 
inscriptions and local traditions still bear witness that a 
flood of Irish teachers penetrated all parts of Europe and 
were actively engaged in the work of teaching, from the 
fifth to the tenth century. They were on the Rhine, the 
Danube and the Main, on the Swiss lakes, on the sides 
of the Alps and Appenines, in Gaul, Spain, Belgium, 
Bavaria, Holland, on the plains of Lombardy, in South-, 
ern Italy, in the islands of the Northern seas. Five 
centuries of noble teaching on the continent stands to 
Ireland's credit. The memory of their works is still 
preserved through the length and breadth of Europe. 
The schools of Lindisfarne in England, and Bobbio in 
Italy, Verdun in France, Vienna, Ratisbon, Wurzburg, 
Cologne, Erfurt in Germany were founded by Irishmen. 

"The renowned monastic school on the Rhine, Saeck- 
ingen, was founded by St. Fridolin. St. Colomba taught 



190 INCIDENTS OF 

in the schools of Zurich and Constant, Sigisbert in the 
school of Dissentis and at Walsort. Wursburg was 
made celebrated by Kilian, and Salsburg by St. Virgilius. 
The renowned schools of Liege and Malines in Belgium 
were founded by Irish teachers. 

"John Scotus Erigena, who was born in Ireland and 
trained in its schools was the head master of the schools 
of the French King, Charles the Bald. 

"IRISH PHILOSOPHERS'' 

"The Prankish annals of the eighth and ninth cen- 
turies attest that the court of the King of the Franks 
was filled with Irish philosophers, such as Virgilius, Cle- 
ment and Dicuil. 

"Henrico of Auxerre tells us that these teachers came 
over in flocks from Ireland to France at the time that 
they were at the court of Louis II in Germany, where the 
Irishman Manno drew about him the most learned of 
the Franks. But for the untiring activity of these 
noble teachers, we would not have the Scriptures to-day. 
The Irish monks preserved them, copied them unceas- 
ingly and carried them in their book satchels all over 
Europe. The oldest book of the New Testament, the 
Muratorian Canon, comes down to us from Irish monks 
of Bobbio in Italy who transcribed it 1,200 years ago, 
although it was then 500 years old. 

"It is well known that the Latin Vulgate played an 
important part in the development of Medieval Europe. 
It formed the literary taste and was the instrument of 
philosophical and theological expression. 

"The Greek and Latin Classics were preserved and 
interpreted by Irish teachers. The literary culture of 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 191 

Europe is due in a great degree to the conscientious, 
painstaking labor of these zealous custodians of the 
classics. Among the oldest Latin and Greek grammars 
and dictionaries of our possession are those produced by 
Irish authors. 

"Some ancient treatises on surveying, geometry, nat- 
ural sciences and medicine are preserved, owing to the 
labors of these great men. 

"The best classical libraries in Europe in the Middle 
Ages were in the Irish monasteries of Bobbio in Italy 
and St. Gall in Switzerland. The Irish monks were the 
most renowned philosophers of the eighth and ninth cent- 
uries. They were versed in Plato, Aristotle and Boe- 
thius, the philosophy of the Scriptures and the history 
of the world. 

"ARTISTIC CULTURE" 

"The literature of the monks shows a high degree of 
artistic culture and a broad knowledge of the fine arts. 
In elegance, purity of style and rare value, their work 
is unequaled. Elegant traces of skill in sculpture can 
be found to-day in the monasteries of Bangor, Armagh, 
Lismore and Clinasnoise. 

"To the Irish teachers was accorded the superiority 
in music, even by Anglo-Norman writers as late as the 
twelfth century. The greatest school of music in the 
ninth century was at St. Gall in Switzerland, presided 
over by Marcellus, the most accomplished man of the 
century. His disciples Notker and Tuotillo were famous 
musicians, and Tuotillo was moreover a painter and 
sculptor; the Michael Angelo of his day. The Irish 
developed a national music which is regarded as unsur- 



192 INCIDENTS OF 

passed. Some of the great operas are taken from the 
collection of Irish music of the Middle Ages. 

"The culture of modern Europe is due in great measure 
to the indefatigable activity of these Irish monks who 
were pioneers and blazed the way through the pathless 
wilderness. They opened the first schools for the Bar- 
barians of Central Europe. They taught the elements 
of Latin, reading, writing, history, logic, arithmetic, the 
church psalms and essentials of education. 

"They were a noble race of teachers who exiled them- 
selves from a charming country and traveled over 
Europe, became the very pariahs of the world in order 
to teach the people of the Continent who were just 
emerging from barbarism. The history of their work 
for culture and Christian civilization is one of the most 
instructive and inspiring in the annals of human history.*' 

IRISHMEN IN HISTORY 

The following from a learned and eloquent lecture, 
delivered by Hon. Edmund F. Dunne, formerly Chief 
Justice of Arizona, should be committed to memory by 
every Irishman and proudly related to his children : 

"Nine hundred years before Columbus pointed his car- 
avels westward, the Irish sailor St. Brendan, had reported 
his discovery of a great land across the Atlantic. The 
Norsemen knew it and called it 'Irland it Mikla,' the 
greater Ireland. The Italian geographers knew of it 
and Toscanelli, on the map that was expressly prepared 
for the first voyage of Columbus, marked it ^Terra di 
San Borondon,' St. Brendan's Land; and it is recorded 
that the first of Columbus' sailors who set foot upon the 
new world was named Patrick McGuire. More Irish- 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 193 

men followed. In 1649, 45,000 came ; driven out of Ire- 
land by Cromwellian persecutions. In 1689 an Irish 
colony came to Maryland, among them the Carrol family 
which gave the celebrated signer of the declaration of 
American Independence, Charles Carroll of Carrollton. 
In 1689 they colonized North Carolina and in seven 
years after, one of their number, Mr. James Moore, led 
the people in revolt against the oppressions of the pro- 
prietary government, establishing their independence and 
was honored by the people in being elected governor; 
the first people's governor of North Carolina. 

"In 1699 a large Irish emigration came to Pennsylvania 
which gave the American army many of the leaders in 
the movement for American Independence. In 1710 they 
came to Virginia and established there the McDonells, 
Breckenridges, McDuffies, Macgruders and McKennas 
of that state. 

"In 1729, at Philadelphia, the Irish arrivals outnum- 
bered ten to one all others from Europe combined. In 
1729 they came also to Cape Cod; with them Charles 
Clinton and family from whence came DeWitt Clinton of 
New York. 

"In 1737 they colonized South Carolina and gave this 
country Rutledge, Calhoun and later Andrew Jackson. 
One of the early South Carolina historians said that *Of 
all other countries none has furnished the province with 
so many inhabitants as Ireland.' 

"In 1746 they went in great numbers with Boone and 
settled in Kentucky and one of the most popular soldiers 
in that land in the early days was Major Hugh McGrady. 

"From the earliest days they had been settling in all 



194 INCIDENTS OF 

the other states. Victims, all of them in a strictly per- 
sonal sense, of English injustice, you may imagine they 
were foremost and loudest in the call for American 
Independence. It is admitted that the Irish John Rut- 
ledge 'was the man whose eloquence roused South Caro- 
lina to the level of resistance.* When the stamp act 
was passed. Dr. Franklin, communicating from London 
with Charles Thompson, one of the Irish settlers in 
Pennsylvania, afterwards secretary of the Continental 
Congress, wrote : The sun of liberty is set. The Amer- 
icans must now light the lamps of industry and economy.' 
But Thompson like a genuine Celt sent back the ringing 
answer : *Be assured that we will light torches of quite 
a different sort.' John Hancock, whose magnificent 
autograph marshals the signature to the declaration like 
a standard bearer at the head of a column, was the son 
of Honora O'Flaherty, and his people were lords in 
Galway for centuries before their advent in America. 

"Ireland was well represented in the Continental Con- 
gress, and among the signers of the Declaration of Inde- 
pendence as well as the constitution of the United States. 

"One-sixth of the signers of the declaration and one- 
sixth of the signers of the Constitution that we know of 
were Irishmen. 

"Of the Continental army which achieved independence 
for the United States one-third of the active officers and 
one-half of the rank and file were of Irish birth or im- 
mediate Irish decent. 

"The first secretary of war was General Henry Knox, 
an Irishman. One of the first Brigadier Generals of the 
Continental army was General Sullivan, a son of an Irish 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 195 

schoolmaster in Limerick. Another was Richard Mont- 
gomery of New York, an Irishman. The celebrated 
Mad Anthony Wayne, so famous as the Murat of the 
American Army, was the son of an Irishman. The man, 
who answering the anxious enquiry as to whether it was 
possible to capture a certain fort, said: *I'll take it to- 
night or Molly Stark will be a widow in the morning.' 
was Major General John Stark, an Irishman from Lon- 
donderry. 

"Ireland was represented in the navy too. The first 
naval capture, made in the name of the United States, 
was by O'Brien from Cork. Fennimore Cooper, in his 
history of the navy, calls it, The Lexington of the seas.' 
The first blow on the water after the war of the Revo- 
lution had actually commenced. 

"The first commodore of the American Navy was John 
Barry from Wexford, where he lived almost to manhood 
before he came to America. One of Barry's proteges in 
the navy was an Irishman who afterwards became Ad- 
miral Stewart, whose grandson, Stewart Parnell, is not 
unknown to you. 

"Washington not only understood the composition of 
his army but fully appreciated the loyalty of his Irish 
troops. When that terrible night came on, when every- 
thing depended on the fidelity of his sentries, he issued 
this celebrated order, Tut none but Irish or Americans 
on guard to-night.' And he put the Irish first, where 
they are generally found when there is to be any fighting 
done. Some so-called historians have been base enough 
to drop the word Trish,' when quoting this order, but the 
original is still preserved in Washington, and stands there 



196 INCIDENTS OF 

as one of the grandest compliments paid to the Irish 
race." 

In addition to the above I might add that the follow- 
ing were all Irishmen or the sons of Irishmen, except 
our immortal Washington who was Irish only by adop- 
tion: Berkely, the philosopher; Curran, the inimitable 
orator and wit ; Duns Scotus, the most subtle of the Mid- 
dle Ages; Charles Gavan Duffy; Sullivan, the most ex- 
tensive farmer in the west ; Donnegan, editor of the most 
comprehensive Greek dictionary; Dr. Kane and Hayes, 
the Artie explorers; Marshall Neil, by decent; Captain 
Blake, the explorer of the continent of Australia ; Ossian, 
the last of the bards of the heroic ages ; Charles O'Con- 
nor, the head of the American bar; Sarsfield, Marshall 
of France and the hero of Fontenoy; Kavanagh and 
Prince Nugent, Marshals of Austria; Patrick Lawless, 
Ambassador from Spain to France; Dominic O'Daly, 
Ambassador from Portugal to France; Nugent, Minis- 
ter from Austria to the Court of Berlin ; Barry, the great 
personator of "Othello;" Patrick Cleborune, the "Stone- 
wall Jackson" of the South-west; Quinn, the great per- 
sonator of "Falstaif ;" Sutton, Count of Clonard, Gover- 
nor of the Dauphin in France. 

The New York World of September 24, 1909, says: 
"Robert Fulton was the son of a Protestant Irishman, but 
when he was perfecting his steamboat he went to France, 
made the acquaintance of Thomas Addis Emmet and 
Dr. McNevin and tried to induce them to use his inven- 
tion to free Ireland from English rule, saying he would 
be glad to contribute the use of his device for that pur- 
pose." 

The following names also grace the Irish roll of honor : 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 197 

Robert Bonner, Publisher and Proprietor of the New 
York Ledger; Rev. Abram J. Ryan, the poet priest of 
the South, (The writer was his pupil at Niagara Uni- 
versity) ; Patrick Farrelly, Superintendent of the Amer- 
ican News Company ; Edmund Burke, the greatest states- 
man that ever stood in the British Houses of Parlia- 
ment; John C. Calhoun, the father of States Rights, by 
descent; Bishop England and Dr. Baker, the most illus- 
trious pulpit orators of the South; McCormack, the in- 
ventor of the steam reaper ; Marshall McMahon, formerly 
head of the French Army; Tom Moore, the poet of all 
circles ; Marshall O'Donnell, Prime Minister of Spain 
and at one time dictator ; Clarke, French Minister of War 
under Napoleon the Great, and Military Governor of 
Berlin and Vienna; O'Connell, the Hercules of moral- 
force agitators; Matthew Carey, the first of American 
writers on Political Economy and of whom Horace 
Greely was a disciple; General Shields, the bullet proof 
hero of Mexico, the victor of Winchester, the only man 
who won a victory over "Stonewall Jackson" ; John Dun- 
lap, who published the first daily paper in this country, 
Pennsylvania Packet, 1771 ; Virgilius, a bishop who flour- 
ished in the eighth century and who was the first to dis- 
cover the sphericity of the earth; John Hughes, first 
Archbishop of New York, a valiant defender of the 
Union, (The writer had the honor of hearing him make 
his last great public speech in New York in 1863, which 
was a strong appeal to the turbulent throng to obey the 
laws and defend the Union) ; Phil Sheridan, Lieutenant 
General of the United States Army — Confessedly the 
best fighting soldier in the Civil War; O'Higgins, late 
Captain General of Chili, and O'Donnell, late Captain 



198 INCIDENTS OF 

General of Cuba; Macklin, the great actor. It was of 
his impersonation of "Shylock" that Pope wrote, 

"This the Jew 
That Shakespeare drew." 

Grattan — "Ever Glorious Grattan" — 

"With more than Demosthenes wanted, endured, and his rival 

or victor in all he possessed," 

as Byron says; M. B. Brady, the world-famed photogra- 
pher ; John Carroll, the first Archbishop of America ; 
John Lovell, the most enterprising and the most extens- 
ive publisher in Canada; Roger B. Taney, former Chief 
Justice of the United States ; Mathew Thornton, the first 
secretary to the first Congress of the United States, and 
the first man to read the Declaration of American Inde- 
pendence in public; Father Mathew, the Apostle 
of Temperance who administered the total-ab- 
stinence pledge to over five million people ; Patrick Sars- 
field Gilmore, of Jubilee fame, the originator and man- 
ager of the most gigantic musical enterprise, (A personal 
friend of the writer) ; Horace Greely, the great journal- 
ist, statesman and sociologist, by descent; William Mc- 
Kinley, the beloved Martyr President, by descent; Wil- 
liam H. Seward, the ablest Secretary of State that Amer- 
ica ever had, was Irish by descent; Sheridan, the 
author. "Whatever Sheridan has done," says Lord 
Byron, "or chosen to do, has always been the best of its 
kind." He has written the best comedy (School for 
Scandal), the best opera (The Duenna), the best farce 
(The Art Critic), and to crown all, delivered the very, 
best oration, (the famous Reform Speech), ever heard or 
conceived in England. 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 199 

Rev. Thomas Burke, the most eloquent orator of the 
renowned order of preachers, (The writer had the pleas- 
ure of hearing one of his eloquent lectures in the old 
Wieting Opera House many years ago) ; Augustus St. 
Gaudens, the famous sculptor. 

George Washington, when he was enrolled among and 
assumed the badge of 'The Friendly Sons of St. Pat- 
fick," became an Irishman by adoption. This society 
originated September 17, 1771, when seventeen persons, 
rifearly all of them among the merchants of Philadelphia, 
all belonging to the Hibernian Fire Bucket Brigade, and 
all of them Irishmen or sons of Irishmen, met in Burns' 
Tavern in that city and formed the organization now so 
famous. The object was friendly and social intercourse. 

From the inception in 1771 its roll comprised 100 mem- 
bers, viz: One adopted member, General George Wash- 
ington ; sixteen honorary members and eighty-three mem- 
bers. No equal number in the thirteen colonies contri- 
buted more to the success of the American Revolution 
than did the Friendly Sons of St. Patrick. Nearly every 
man was engaged in the strife for independence at one 
time or another on land or sea. 

Charles Thompson, secretary of the Continental Con- 
gress, a member, wrote the first copy of the Declaration 
of Independence from the draft received from Jefferson. 
Colonel John Nixon, a member, was the first to read it to 
the people from the second story central window of In- 
dependence Hall. John Dunlap, a member and publisher 
of the first daily newspaper in the colonies, was the first 
to print and publish it. 

The Friendly Sons of St. Patrick gave twelve generals 
to the Army of the Revolution besides numerous officers 



200 INCIDENTS OF 

of lower rank. The most conspicuous members were: 
General Stephen Moylan, General Walter Stewart, Gen- 
eral William Thompson, General William Irvine, General 
Anthony Wayne, General Thomas Robinson, General 
John Shea, General Edward Hand and General Henry 
Knox, afterward Secretary of war when Washington be- 
came President. Among its honorary members were: 
General Cadwalader, Robert Morris, Commodore John 
Barry, Father of the American Navy, Colonel Ephraim 
Blaine (grandfather of James G. Blaine), and Colonel 
George Meade (grandfather of General Meade of Gettys- 
burg fame). 

In the terrible winter of 1777, when the American 
Army lay starving and freezing at Valley Forge, Robert 
Morris, an honorary member of the Friendly Sons of St. 
Patrick, started a subscription to raise money sufficient 
to save the army, heading it with his own subscription of 
ten thousand pounds sterling, which was followed by 
Blair McClenachan for a like amount and in a few hours 
there was subscribed, among that small body of men (at 
that time not exceeding over fifty members), the sum 
of one hundred and three thousand, five hundred pounds 
sterling ($517,500). 

GEORGE WASHINGTON A MEMBER OF THE FRIENDLY SONS 

OF ST. PATRICK 

On December 18, 1781, the society adopted General 
Washington as a member. He was the only adopted 
member. On being notified he wrote as follows: 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 201 

"To George Campbell, Esq., president of the Society of 
the Friendly Sons of St. Patrick in the City of Phila- 
delphia : 

"Sir : I accept with singular pleasure, the ensign of so 
worthy a fraternity as that of the Sons of St. Patrick in 
this city — a society distinguished for the firm adherence 
of its members to the glorious cause in which we are em- 
barked. Give me leave to assure you, sir, that I shall 
never cast my eyes upon the badge with which I am 
honored, but with grateful remembrance of the polite 
and affectionate manner in which it was presented. I 
am with respect and esteem. Sir, 

"Your most obedient servant, 

"George Washington." 
The records and the original signatures of its mem- 
bership are preserved in Independence Hall, Philadelphia. 
Its members were composed of Quakers, Catholics, Epis- 
copalians and Presbyterians, the only qualification being 
fidelity to the American cause. 

IRISHMEN RULE 

The following article entitled "Irishmen Now Rule the 
British Empire," was taken from a London paper of July 
28, 1904: 

"There are less than 5,000,000 people in Ireland, 
against 40,000,000 in England, Wales and Scotland, and 
12,000 white citizens of the British empire in other parts 
of the world. 

"In spite of their numerical inferiority. Irishmen, how- 
ever, practically run the British Empire. The heads of 
the army and the legal profession are Irishmen. England's 
most trusted diplomatists abroad are Irish born and bred, 



202 INCIDENTS OF 

and in literature, art and music, the Irish enjoy a pre- 
dominance which is hard to explain. 

"Another strange fact is that the majority of Ireland's 
most distinguished sons come from Waterford and Ros- 
common. The County of Waterford appears to be favor- 
able to fostering the genius for war; Roscommon and 
Dublin, literature; Cork and Limerick, music. 

"England's leading admiral, the man who in the event 
of a great naval war would be intrusted with the com- 
mand of her fleet. Lord Charles Beresford, comes of an 
old Waterford family. 

"Earl Roberts, or "Bobs," the commander-in-chief of 
the British army, although born at Cawnpore, India, 
comes on his father's side from a Waterford family and 
on his mother's from 'magnificent Tipperary.' Viscount 
Wolseley, 'Bob's' predecessor as commander-in-chief, is a 
Dublin man. General French, the only general who did 
not meet with defeat in South Africa, hails from Ros- 
common. He first came into prominence in Canada dur- 
ing the Red River expedition in 1874. He has a sister 
who is a leading light in the English journalistic move- 
ment. Lord Kelly-Kenny is another of England's fam- 
ous soldiers who is Irish born. 

"The late Lord Chief Justice, Lord Russell of Killo- 
wen, was, as all the world knows, an Irishman. His son, 
the Hon. Charles Russell, who actively pulled the strings 
to secure a pardon for Mrs. Maybrick and who is rival- 
ling Sir George Lewis's claim to be the foremost solicitor 
in England, takes a prominent part in the revival of the 
Gaelic movement. 

"The solicitor general, Sir Edward Carson, won his 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 203 

spurs at the Irish bar through his prosecution of the 
murderers of Lord Edward Cavendish and Mr. Burke. 
He is the greatest lawyer in the empire and used to make 
$100,000 per annum in fees. 

"T. C. Gill, K. C, another Irishman, runs him very 
close at the bar, however. At one time he was Lord 
Russell of Killowen's great rival. 

"Belfast congratulates itself in having given birth to 
the most distinguished scientist in the world in the person 
of Lord Kelvin. Sir Thomas Ball, the ex-president of 
the Royal Astronomical Society, is a Dublin man. No 
one has done so much to popularize astronomy amongst 
the masses as Sir Thomas who still speaks with a brouge. 

"The chief secretary for Ireland, George Wyndham, 
is the great-grandson of the famous Irish rebel. Lord 
Edward Fitzgerald, who died of wounds received while 
resisting arrest in 1798. 

"The British Ambassador at Vienna, who holds one 
of the most influential positions in the diplomatic world, 
the Rt. Hon. Sir F. Plunkett, is another Waterford man. 
He was the secretary to the legation at Washingon in the 
early '70s, where he married May, the daughter of C. W. 
Morgan of Philadelphia. 

"H. I. Thaddeus, R. B. A., the artist who holds the 
world's record for painting royalties and society leaders, 
is a Cork man. He has had commissions from Pope Leo 
XIII, and Pope Pius X., the Czar, the King of Wirtem- 
berg, the Prince and Princess of Wales, the late Duke 
and Dutchess of Kent, Lady Howard de Walden, the 
Grand Duke of Macklenburg-Schwerin, Lady Clifford, 
the Duke of Newcastle and most of the nobility of Eng- 
land. A number of his paintings were at the St. Louis 



204 INCIDENTS OF 

exposition, and several, unfortunately, were damaged by 
fire." 

Our outward voyage on the Campania was very pleas- 
ant, the sea being as calm as one could wish. We met 
a great number of agreeable and pleasant travelers. 
After the social chilliness of the first day, incidental to 
total strangers, we became gradually thawed out until 
all became more or less acquainted and friendly. In 
fact, before we reached mid-ocean, we were as one great 
family, each one looking out for the other's pleasure and 
interest. 

Among the many little incidents on board was one that 
I can never forget, as it was so ridiculous. When walk- 
ing the promenade deck one pleasant afternoon, I noticed 
a nurse, with a very sickly looking child in her arms. 
She was giving it some odd looking fluid from a bottle. 
I ventured to ask her what she was feeding the infant. 
She promptly and decidedly answered she was feeding 
it "mortified milk." As soon as I could recover from the 
shock her answer gave me, I humbly remarked that I was 
not surprised the child looked so cadaverous. I suppose 
she meant "modified milk." 

A THRILLING RIDE 
I had a rather exciting experience in Cork. Dr. Corby, 
Professor in the Queen's College, called at the 
Imperial Hotel, and invited me to take a ride in his new 
automobile. After he had shown me the most important 
places in and around the city, the doctor had occasion to 
step into a store, leaving me sole occupant of the auto. 
When he came out he began to arrange some machinery 
in the rear of the vehicle before he got in. By some hook 
or crook, the "moby" started off with me at a rapid rate. 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 205 

To say I was surprised would be putting it mildly. 
Away down St. Patrick's street we flew like the wind. 
I did not dare to touch any of the numerous levers, fear- 
ing that I might accelerate its speed instead of stopping 
the "critter." So there I was, a stranger in Cork, 
at the mercy of an unknown and new fangled engine of 
destruction. I just then felt a good deal as the old 
darkie did when he lost his oars in a storm on the Missis- 
sippi. In his distress he cried out: "O Lawd ef yuse 
ebber gwine to help disc yere ole sinner now is the mos ac- 
ceptable time." Every moment I expected to be hurled 
against some ancient landmark or thrown out on the 
ground among the many frightened horses that were 
prancing and snorting with fright around me. At the 
supreme moment, when I expected to be demolished, an 
agile son of Erin caught up with me in my wild flight, 
clambered aboard, touched the right lever and saved me 
and the machine from almost certain destruction. While 
the excitement was going on, the dignified but sprightly 
professor, with hat in hand and his venerable locks wildly 
floating in the wind, was sprinting down the street at a 
two-forty clip trying to keep up with the runaway. After 
I was safely landed on terra firma, I politely thanked the 
good doctor for my unexpected recreation, but declined 
to ride any farther, until I knew something about the 
mechanism of the new contrivance. 

MISTAKEN FOR ORANGEMEN 

At New Ross, in the County Wexford, Brewster and 
I made arrangements to take a train for Enniscorthy. 
As we had some spare time, before the starting of the 
train, we walked up and down the spacious platform tak- 



206 INCIDENTS OF 

ing observations of our surroundings. As is well known, 
most of the cars over there are divided into compartments, 
which to us looked like box stalls. Every car is set off 
into three divisions, each of which will hold about eight 
persons, who can sit four on a side facing each other and 
grin, laugh or stare at their opposite neighbors as fancy 
may direct. It is certainly often very embarrassing to 
thus be obliged to ride with a box full of strangers and 
to be locked in like a lot of domestic chattels. 

As the train was about to start, I hurriedly looked into 
several compartments, to select the most desirable. Find- 
ing one with but a single passenger, and he being a 
clergyman, judging from his garb, I beckoned Brewster 
to come with me into that one. As we were about to enter, 
grips in hand, his Reverence "sized us up" and, with a 
startled expression, hastily seized his luggage and made 
a rush for the platform and entered another car. After 
disposing of our grips by stowing them away on the 
rickety shelves above our heads, I went across the plat- 
form to make some inquiries. Whom should I meet 
there but the very clergyman who, a few moments before, 
had escaped from our car. I wished to calm his fears, 
but the crowd around the ticket window was so dense 
that I could not say just what I wished to in the verna- 
cular. I therefore addressed him in Latin, saying: "Tu 
sacerdos es, nos Catholici et Hibernici sumus. Non nos 
timere debes." Which in English is : "You are a priest, 
we are Catholics and Irishmen. You need not fear us." 
A radiant smile lit up his rather stern but classic features 
as he extended his hand in friendship, telling me in the 
same grand old tongue, that our appearance certainly 
contradicted the reality. I thought no more of the cir- 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 207 

cumstance until we had for some time occupied our seats 
in the compartment. When the cars were about to start, 
who should come rushing in but the very gentleman we 
had but a few moments before frightened away. His 
manner was entirely changed and he became quite soci- 
able. He began his conversation by telling us how glad 
he was to meet us and the reason he so precipitately fled 
on our approach was that he mistook us for a pair of 
Orangemen. As we rode along for a short distance we 
entered a dark tunnel, nearly a half mile in length. We 
then fully appreciated the real cause of the gentleman's 
fear. He did not wish to be alone in that subterranean 
passage with two suspicious looking strangers. Under 
the circumstances, who could blame him? Our conver- 
sation became more friendly and interesting as we ap- 
proached Enniscorthy, his home. He invited us to dine 
with him at the parochial residence, for which we thanked 
him and compromised by saying that after we had rested 
a while at the hotel and taken our evening meal, we 
would call on him. About seven P. M. the gentlemanly 
proprietor of Bennett's Hotel sent his little son with us 
to point out the priest's house. Arriving at what we sup- 
posed the parochial residence, I rapped at the outer gate 
which was more like a door. A young girl cautiously 
opened it — just a wee bit — and inquiringly peered out at 
the strangers. In an assumed deep basso profundo, I 
loudly announced that two strange Orangemen were anx- 
iously waiting to see Father Fitzhenry. With a terri- 
fied look, the poor girl shut the door so suddenly that she 
came very near pinching the top of her little nose. 
After she had collected her startled senses, she again 
peered through a small opening and said, "Father Fitz- 



208 INCIDENTS OF 

henry lives over beyant, ferninst the park." We went 
"beyant" and sure enough the good priest met us at the 
threshold with both hands extended in welcome. During 
the two pleasant hours we spent in his company we were 
greatly edified by his manner and conversation. We 
found him an elegant gentleman, highly educated and 
zealously earnest in the duties of his sacred calling. He 
is about thirty-five years of age and has already accom- 
plished a vast amount of good in his parish and even be- 
yond. He is looked upon as the Father Mathew of that 
part of Ireland, and is very enthusiastic in correcting the 
evils of intemperance wherever he meets them. 

Father Fitzhenry paid a visit to this country last year. 
During his short sojourn in Syracuse I had the honor of 
entertaining him. He seemed very much pleased with 
America and its people. He spoke of the business ac- 
tivity and prosperity to be seen on every side and the 
generally contented and happy condition of its people. 
He moreover remarked that if he should fully describe 
to his people the advantages to be obtained in this 
country, he feared he would soon be without any parish- 
ioners. 

BELFAST 

Belfast is a handsome city, full of activity and busi- 
ness enterprise. The great shipyards of the White Star 
Line are here and give employment to thousands of ar- 
tisans who swarm the place like an immense colony of in- 
dustrious bees. The day before we arrived there the Steam- 
ship Oceanic was launched and lay at the wharf, ready 
for the finishing touches. It was then the largest vessel 
afloat and the surprise and talk of the civilized world. 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 209 

Since that time the Mauretania of the Cunard line has 
been built and far surpasses the former vessel in size 
and modern improvements. I understand that one is 
now (1910) building that will be far larger than the 
Mauretania. If this increase in size continue, there is 
no knowing where the competition will end. Docks will 
have to be lengthened and harbors deepened if the 
growth of floating palaces continue. Soon, no doubt, 
we will have air ships that will compete with the great 
ocean liners for travel and commerce. No sea sickness 
will trouble their passengers and many will cross the 
great Atlantic who are now afraid to do so, fearing a pos- 
sible attack of the dreaded mal de mer. 

Brewster and I visited a theatre in the evening where 
we witnessed a very creditable entertainment of the 
vaudeville variety. Among the acts was one which we 
considered really marvelous. Two men dressed in or- 
dinary evening costume, boots and all, performed on a 
tight wire stretched high above the stage. They both 
played violins during the act and frequently threw back- 
ward summersaults without missing a note. That they 
could leap into the air in this manner and safely land on 
the wire seemed almost impossible. I frequently feared 
that I was about to witness involuntary suicide but they 
went through their acts fearlessly, skillfully and even 
cheerfully. By the way, I noticed that all performances 
in first class theatres in Ireland were of the most finished 
and complete order. Nothing mediocre was allowed. 
An incompetent actor would be immediately hissed from 
the stage. The audiences, which are very exacting, will 
not put up with anything but the very best. 

We stopped at a hotel in Belfast which was called first 



210 INCIDENTS OF 

class. I told the clerk I wanted a good room, not too 
high up as I was always afraid of fire. In the evening 
I was escorted upstairs by a senile maid of forbidding 
features and uncertain age who led me to the fourth 
story and piloted me through a labyrinth of dark and 
dingy halls until we reached the room assigned to me. 
It contained some well worn and antique furniture that 
would do fair credit to a second hand auction store. The 
bed was about seven feet wide and eight feet long. It 
was damp, flat and hard. In fact it was much like many 
other hotel beds I saw in that part of the country. 

After calmly and sorrowfully surveying the dismal 
surroundings, I looked out of the ancient window and 
peered down through the dark area to the almost invis- 
ible ground below and then looked about me for a fire 
escape or something like it, but they were conspicuous 
by their absence. I then asked my old pilot what I 
should do in case of fire. She immediately offered 
doubtful consolation by telling me I should only do the 
very best I could. I didn't sleep very well that night as 
I constantly thought of the dangerous alternative of try- 
ing to find my way out through smoky halls or of jump- 
ing to the ground fifty feet below. 

While Brewster and I were standing in the lobby of 
the hotel next morning we were approached by a stranger 
who asked our names and where we came from. I was 
somewhat astonished at the fellow's assurance and 
politely informed him we were from America, hoping 
that would satisfy his curiosity. Nothing daunted, he 
wanted to know what part we came from and in what 
city we lived. He said he saw on the books that Syra- 
cuse was given as our residence. We owned up to the 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 211 

mild insinuation and in turn asked him why he was so 
much interested is us. He said he was formerly in that 
city and in fact married a lady from there. He told us 
he was a doctor and had made several inventions which 
he was exploiting throughout the country. One was a 
life saving apparatus which he was then showing the 
citizens of Belfast and the other was a lemon squeezer 
of peculiar construction from which he hoped to make a 
large and rapid fortune. 

THE BLARNEY STONE 

Among the many legends concerning the Blarney 
Stone, I quote the following: "There are many famous 
stones in the world but perhaps the one that is most 
celebrated is the Blarney Stone of Ireland. According 
to tradition this stone was in the possession of the Car- 
thagenians and, perhaps before their day, of the Syrians 
or Phoenicians who settled the African city. The kissing 
of it is said to have made the Syrians double tongued, 
and the expressive Runic faith is credited to its qualities. 
Becoming enamored of the stone, some adventurous Ar- 
gonauts stole it and set sail for Cyprus, but with adverse 
winds were carried past the Pillars of Hercules and fin- 
ally, in a storm, made the coast of Ireland, near Cork, 
where the stone was carried ashore. There it remained, 
the legend says, until the fifteenth century when Blarney 
Castle was erected and the stone placed in its donjon 
tower, where it is shown to visitors to this day, the 
kissing of it giving one freedom of speech and the quality 
called 'blarneying.' 

"In many Italian cities there formerly existed what was 
called *pietra d'infamie,' or a stone of infamy for the 



212 INCIDENTS OF 

punishment of bankrupts. In Venice one stands near the 
church of St. Mark and in Verona and Florence they are 
near the old markets. On a day in carnival week, the 
old time custom was to have all traders, who had become 
bankrupt in the preceding twelve months, led to the 
stone and one by one each stood on its center to hear the 
reading of a report of his business failures and to endure 
the reproaches heaped upon him by his creditors. At 
the end of a certain time each bankrupt was partly un- 
dressed and three officers took hold of his shoulders and 
three others of his knees and raising him as high as they 
could, bumped him on the stone deliberately twelve 
times 'in honor of the twelve apostles,' the creditors 
crowing like cocks while the bumping proceeded." 

THEIR "LORDSHIPS." 

I was taking a walk one day from Killena to Arda- 
mine in Wexford with a couple of farmers whom I over- 
took on the road. We were having a very pleasant 
stroll, enlivened by an interesting conversation on the 
beauties of the surrounding landscape, when a couple of 
the "gentry" loomed up in the distance. I noticed my 
friends taking off their caps and placing them tightly 
under their left arms while preparing to salute their 
"Lordships." With profound bows almost amounting to 
salaams, they began to kick backwards and throw gravel 
with their brogans far behind them, as belligerent bulls 
do when facing one another in deadly combat. After 
they had passed on, I asked the reason for all those 
vigorous gymnastics. They said it was the custom 
of the country to pay their respects in this manner to 
their "lordships" whenever they met them on the high- 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 213 

way. In bucolic wonder they asked me why I didn't do 
likewise. I told them I came from America, where one 
man is as good as another, as long as he behaves himself, 
and that we do not recognize caste of any kind or de- 
gree. 

These incidents forcibly illustrate the "pleasure of 
living in a country ruled by the 'snobocracy.' " 

A DUBLIN CABBY 

In Dublin I took a cab one day to go from Four 
Courts to Linen Hall Street. I made a bargain with the 
cabby as to the price of transportation. He told me he 
knew the point I wished to reach, perfectly well. After 
we had gone several blocks he seemed to have lost his 
way and asked me further about the street in question. 
As I also was ignorant of the location, I told him to 
stop and I would make inquiries. Without leaving the 
cab I shouted to a man on the sidewalk who gave us the 
desired information. On arrival at my uncle's home 
where I was bound for, I offered the cabby the price 
agreed upon, which he would not accept, but demanded 
that I double it as the 'journey was broken' when we 
stopped to make inquiries. I paid his exhorbitant de- 
mands under protest but kept up a vigorous thinking 
about the tyranny of the very fellows themselves who 
complain of injustice and are always snivelling about 
hard times. 

VALLEY OF THE SEVEN CHURCHES 

At Castletown in the County of Wexford, Ireland, I 
spent a few days with my cousin, Mrs. Ellen Redmond 
Bowes, who, with her husband, conducted a National 



214 INCIDENTS OF 

School there. As it was vacation time, they suggested 
an excursion of the Valley of the Seven Churches known, 
also as Glendalough, or the Glen of the Lakes. 

The next day we started out and, when we reached 
the town of Arklow, we met an association of school 
teachers who were en route for the same place. We 
joined the party which was found very congenial and in- 
teresting. At Dundrum we met another party that had 
just arrived from Dublin, the members of which joined 
us and completely filled the train that was bound for 
Glendalough. 

This interesting little hamlet is in the townsland of 
Ballinacor in the County of Wicklow. It is one of the 
most famous places in all Ireland. Situated in a valley 
it impresses the tourist, who first beholds it from the 
mountain side, with feelings of admiration and sorrow — 
the first for its wonderful history, the latter for its mass 
of desolate ruins. Long before powerful nations of the 
present day had their existence, this was a seat of learn- 
ing that sent out teachers and savants to many lands. 
History is filled with pages of the teachings of its learned 
scholars who, as linguists, translators, copyists, etc., 
were successful in preserving the knowledge of early 
times and transmitting it to natives and foreigners who 
flocked to this famous valley for instruction. 

St. Kevin, who lived in the sixth century as a hermit 
on the shore of the upper lake, is said to have been the 
founder of the Seven Churches whose ruins are still to 
be seen there. In the midst of all stands a lofty 
Round Tower that has not as yet succumbed to the 
ravages of time but is in a state of preservation that 
would lead one to imagine it might have been built 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 215 

within the last decade. This is perhaps the most per- 
fect specimen of those mystic towers that are the wonder 
and puzzle of antiquarians and archaeologists. It is 110 
feet in height and 51 feet in circumference at the base 
from which it gracefully tapers to a summit covered with 
a conical roof. 

It was the first tower of the kind I had ever seen and 
to make sure that I saw it and even felt it, I walked 
clear around it with one hand on its wall. It looks almost 
as clean and perfect as if the masons had just finished 
it, taken down their scaffolds and gone home to an early 
dinner. 

When it is remembered that this tower is perhaps as 
old, if not older, than the Pyramids of Egypt, it will 
seem almost incredible that it could remain in such a 
state of preservation as we find it to-day. The late 
Henry O'Brien in his exhaustive treatise on the "Round 
Towers of Ireland," after citing many authorities and 
comparing different sources of information, comes to the 
conclusion that they had their origin with a sect of Bud- 
dists that flourished in ancient Persia, and emigrated to 
Ireland in prehistoric times, where they built those towers 
as monuments to the deity they worshipped. 

Walking through the ruins of the Seven Churches 
which surround this tower are to be seen the remains of 
St. Kevin's Church, the Cathedral, the Lady Chapel, 
Trinity Church, St. Saviour's Abbey, said to contain the 
tomb of St. Kevin, and the Refeart or Cemetery Church. 
The remains of the seventh are now barely visible. These 
ruins still show some rare examples of artistic workman- 
ship, so characteristic of ancient Hibernia. In the cem- 
etery and through the valley are to be seen many stone 



216 INCIDENTS OF 

crosses and monuments of beautiful and unique design. 
The Cave known as St. Kevin's Bed seems to be a natural 
cavity in the rock. It is situated on the shore of the 
upper lake and is about twenty-five feet above the water. 
The access to it is very difficult and even dangerous. 
Why the saint selected such an inconvenient locality for 
his lodgings I am at a loss to say. If he wished to 
leave the world behind, he certainly could not have 
found a more retiring place, for it's nearly worth one's 
life to climb the steep and treacherous rocks to reach it. 
Many of our party explored the innermost recesses of 
this little cave which is almost as famous as Blarney 
Castle. 

The little lake above mentioned is about as lonely look- 
ing as any sheet of water I ever saw, being enclosed by 
barren mountains that are so unlike the verdant hills in 
other parts of that country. In referring to it a local 
poet says : 

"That gloomy lake whose dismal shore 
The nightingale ne'er warbles o'er.'* 

I think this sentiment gives a good idea of the locality. 
It is so different from the lower lake that it makes the 
latter more beautiful and interesting by comparison. 

Our next excursion was over to the Vale of Avoca in 
the same county. By the way, I think the County of 
Wicklow possesses more natural charms than all the rest 
of Ireland, and the tourist who fails to visit it misses a 
veritable Garden of Eden. 

On our way to the Vale of Avoca I was somewhat 
amused at an old fisherman who entered the car at Avon- 
dale. By his swinging gait and general appearance I 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 217 

took him for an old time sailor from the County Mayo. 
His ruddy countenance, set off with a little pug nose, 
beautifully embellished with a large sized wart on its 
starboard side, gave him a comfortably comical expres- 
sion. He had on the conventional suit of corduroy which 
covered his stout figure from head to foot. Slung across 
his shoulders was the inevitable fishing basket, that, no 
doubt, contained his noonday lunch with a wee portion of 
"bait." Taking him, all in all, he seemed the personifica- 
tion of happiness and good humor. 

As he sat there puffing vigorously away at his little 
dark dudeen, I could not help giving him a few surreptit- 
ious glances, he being the most interesting exhibit en 
route. Between frequent pulls at his pipe he would get 
off some quaint remarks that proved very entertaining 
to the excursionists. I distinctly remember one of his 
funny exclamations. For some reason, unknown to the 
passengers, the train was brought to a halt as it was 
crossing a long bridge. Our quaint little passenger, who 
seemed over anxious to reach the fishing grounds, became 
somewhat impatient at the delay and after holding his 
temper and his pungent breath as long as he could, 
blurted out so all could hear, "Let yees get on wid yere 
cranky ould invintion. Phwat the divil's kapin' ye here ?" 
He perhaps thought he was the only one discommoded by 
the delay. 

THE MEETING OF THE WATERS 

The Vale of Avoca is certainly all that Moore has said 
of it — a charming, quiet retreat where the music of the 
rippling waters seems to sing the anthems of Nature. I 
sat on a large stone under the very tree where Thomas 



218 INCIDENTS OF 

Moore is said to have composed and written the "Meet- 
ing of the Waters." These miniature rivers are the 
Avonmore and the Avonbeg which meet there and har- 
moniously mingle their silvery streams. While sitting 
under that tree I called to mind my favorite stanza in the 
famous poem which I considered so appropriate to that 
peaceful, sunny vale. As I now remember, it reads like 
this : 

"Sweet Vale of Avoca! How calm could I rest 

In thy bosom of shade, with the friends I love best, 

Where the storms that we feel in this cold world would cease. 

And our hearts, like thy waters, be mingled in peace." 

I admire the poet who felt the soothing influences of 
those peaceful surroundings, and none could do otherwise 
were he at all susceptible to the romantic loveliness of 
this enchanting valley. However, it was only a Moore 
who could so grandly express sentiments appropriate to 
the Vale of Avoca which divides mountains, but welcomes 
the silvery streams that magically murmur as they gently 
mingle their undulating waters in peaceful harmony. 

BLARNEY CASTLE 

There has been so much said and written about Blar- 
ney Castle that I will limit myself to personal experience 
there. Of course, I must give a brief outline of it, from 
my own point of view, before commencing. 

This old castle was built in the fifteenth century by one 
Cormac McCarthy. It is about 120 feet high, of rough- 
hewn stone and is in a fair state of preservation. The 
coping on the top of the old walls, however, is nearly all 
gone and its place is usurped by mosses and ivies which 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 219 

lend a romantic beauty to the old ruin that is much ad- 
mired. We had heard so much of Blarney Castle and 
the mystic halo that seems to encircle it, that it was with 
a sort of reverence that we approached the historic old 
tower. A narrow winding stairway of uncertain con- 
struction leads to what is at present the upper floor or 
landing. With a good deal of effort, we managed to 
reach the top. This is devoid of roof, in fact I don't 
think it ever had one, as the mosses and lichens that so 
abundantly and luxuriantly grow there would go to show 
that it was formerly a sort of roof garden or something 
of that kind. The ivy was of a kind I never saw before 
and, wishing to take some home, I cut off slips that wc 
afterwards stuck into raw potatoes which made their 
transportation successful. 

A little below the level of this floor is located the fam- 
ous Blarney Stone, a history of which may be read in 
another chapter. Of course the male portion of our 
party felt it their bounden duty to kiss this talismanic 
creation of traditional lore. 

The world wide reputation that Blarney Castle enjoys 
goes to show how small an affair will sometimes make 
famous a man, a locality or even an old ruin. A few 
lines, carelessly written, gave to the Blarney Stone, its 
Castle and the hamlet it which it is located a lasting and 
universal reputation. 

For those who have not yet seen the lines, I will quote : 

"There is a stone there 
That whoever kisses 
Oh! he never misses 
To grow eloquent. 
A clever spouter 



220 INCIDENTS OF 

He'll sure turn out, or 

An out and outer 

To be let alone. 

Don't hope to hinder him 

Or to bewilder him 

Sure he's a pilgrim 

From the Blarney Stone." 

While on the castle we were startled by a dashing 
young lady who excitedly rushed up the stairs and over 
to the wall to get a hurried kiss of the famous stone. 
In her wild rush she came very near falling to the 
ground 120 feet below, and would have done so had it 
not been for a bystander and myself who grabbed her by 
the heels just in time. Being a woman of large propor- 
tions and very heavy, it required our entire strength to 
haul her back to safety. 

She excitedly got to her feet and, with the look of a 
frightened fawn, dashed off down the stairs without even 
stopping to express thanks for her rescue. I suppose 
she was so overjoyed her life was saved that she forgot 
to express her gratitude. 

About a week before that a sailor, in his attempt to 
kiss the stone, leaned out too far, lost his balance and fell 
headlong, a distance of over a hundred feet, landing on 
the top branches of a large tree that stood close to the 
wall below. Strange to say, he escaped serious injury, 
only a few scratches and bruises being the result of his 
perilous flight. He, in his enthusiasm, had perhaps 
kissed "not wisely but too well," or may be did not get a 
smack at all. 

The Groves of Blarney are certainly very charming 
and, according to the old song which, pardon me, I do 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 221 

not intend to repeat, are filled, with "posies and carnations 
which vie with the daffodowndillies" in their efforts to 
adorn the verdant banks of the purling, silvery streams 
that meander between them. 

The modest hamlet of Blarney, hard by, is a very in- 
teresting collection of comfortable and neat little cot- 
tages. As we walked through the place we came across 
a large number of children who were seated on the grass 
alongside a blooming hawthorne hedge. We learned it 
was the village school which had assembled there for 
instruction, it being much more comfortable than the 
stuffy old school room. It was indeed an inspiring sight 
to behold those little innocents, clad in their neat home- 
spun, eagerly pursuing the paths of knowledge in the 
shade of the white blossomed hedge. Our presence did 
not seem to distract their close attention to the instruc- 
tions the teacher was at that time giving them. 

The only manufacturing plant we saw there was the 
Blarney Woolen Mills. They are famous for making the 
finest cloth in Great Britain. At the Centennial Exposi- 
tion they captured the prize from all the world for the 
excellency of their products. 

After inspecting the mills Mrs. Doyle and I took a 
short walk into the suburbs of the little place. It was 
about the noon hour and many of the mill operators were 
hurrying home for dinner, as they still call it there. On 
our rambles we came across two women who had brought 
the mid-day meal to their boys who were waiting on the 
bank of the Blarney River near the mills. We stopped to 
have a chat with them. The mothers were rather in- 
clined to be communicative but the boys were so absorbed 
in the interesting occupation of stowing away hot pota- 



222 INCIDENTS OF 

toes and cool buttermilk, that they honored us with but 
scant attention. I thought to myself, if I but had their 
appetites I could afford to remain speechless for a month. 
The whole ensemble, surroundings and all, formed a sub- 
ject worthy of artistic study that would delight the most 
ambitious painter of modern times. 

WATERFORD 

This is a clean, grand, lonesome looking, old city. 
It was built a long time ago, and like other towns in Ire- 
land has been the scene of many battles which often 
nearly destroyed it. As an example of its early enter- 
prise it possessed a newspaper away back in 1729 entitled 
the "Waterford Flying Post" which was printed on com- 
mon writing paper and published twice a week. 

A large round tower still stands on the site of the 
tower built by Reginald the Dane in 1003. Near its 
summit can be seen, embedded in the walls, one of the 
balls shot from the cannon of Cromwell while besieging 
the city. 

Tramore is a famous watering place about six miles 
south of the city. After enjoying the hospitalities of 
Waterford, we took the train and went down there. The 
little cars on that road looked more like toys than practi- 
cal conveyances. They were so small and frail and the 
tracks so yielding that we feared an accident might hap- 
pen if the concern were allowed to speed beyond the lim- 
its of a smart walk. 

The little village is wonderfully pretty, located as it 
is on the bay, and set out with fine old buildings, that, 
even in their decadence, exhibit traces of former ele- 
gance. A church spire here and there indicates that the 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 223 

inhabitants are still God-fearing, if they are not wealthy 
in this world's goods. 

The grand stretch of white, sandy beach was alive 
with pleasure seekers from far and near. It was amus- 
ing and interesting to watch the antics of the youthful 
bathers as they sported about in the deep waters like so 
many plunging porpoises. Many of them would swim 
out a great distance into the sea and appear as much at 
home as if on terra firma. It often occurred to me that 
if those lads were taken with cramps while out there 
it would soon be all over with them so far as this world 
is concerned. 

Our next thought was to get to New Ross in Wexford. 
This town is a few miles up the river Barrow. We 
boarded a little steamer which bix)ught us safely up 
stream to our destination. On our way I was much 
amused to notice the manner in which the mail-bags 
were exchanged en route. As our creaky old boat lum- 
bered along against the swift current of the river, we 
noticed a boatman from the shore rowing towards us 
with all speed. He would start out a long distance above 
and point directly across the river, making the calcula- 
tion so nicely that by the time he reached the middle of 
the stream he would come alongside our boat, on which 
he would quickly throw his mail and receive another in 
return and be off again. This unique exhibition of rural 
skill and activity so interested the passengers that they 
rushed to the side of the little steamer in such numbers 
as to nearly capsize it. 

After a very enjoyable trip we reached New Ross. It 
is a smart little town and up to date in many respects. 
The railroad station is very commodious and possesses all 



224 INCIDENTS OF 

the modern improvements necessary for a place of its 
size. 

New Ross was founded prior to the Thirteenth Cent- 
ury by Isabella, daughter of Strongbow, and was form- 
erly known as Rossglas. Cromwell also had a whack at 
this town whose fortresses he knocked to smithereens. 
There are some remains of the ancient walls still in exis- 
tence; silent reminders of the Reign of Terror that 
blasted the Emerald Isle in the days long ago. 

SHANDON 

Like the song of the Blarney Stone, the little poem 
by Father Prout has immortalized its subject. Shandon 
Church is known the world over and the music of its 
bells seems to have reached every shore. When I entered 
this venerable church I was not satisfied until I climbed 
the interior of its steeple and had rung, with my own 
hands, the famous bells. Their music is really sweet, 
not because the poet said so, for they send forth a soft 
melody that seems to charm the very soul and sooth one 
into a blissful forgetfulness of the anxieties of life. Hav- 
ing satisfied my ambition to see and ring the famous 
bells, I returned to the body of the ancient church which 
is now in a state of incipient ruin. Its walls are dingy 
and the pews or seats anything but inviting. Near the 
dilapidated pulpit is a baptismal font which is noted for 
its antiquity, if nothing else. 

On the north side of the church lie buried the remains 
of Father Mahoney, or Father Prout as he was pleased to 
sign his writings. His grave lies near the church, just 
under the eaves. It was raining the day I was there and 
the last resting place of the author of "Bells of Shandon" 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 225 

was flooded with water from the roof. The appearance 
of his tomb was a forcible reminder of the neglect and 
forgetfulness of mankind, even for those who have been 
a blessing in their day and generation. 

The steeple of Old Shandon is an odd looking affair. 
It appears as if built at different times and in separate 
stories. Two sides of it are white and two are red. 
This circumstance gave rise to the couplet 

Parti-colored, like Cork's people. 

Red and white stands Shandon Steeple. 

Only a few hundred feet from Shandon Church he 
buried the remains of Gerald Griffin, author of the Col- 
legians from which Boucicalt, years after, founded the 
play of the "Colleen Bawn" which had such a phenom- 
enal run in Europe and this country a few years ago. 
He also wrote "Hollandtide Tales," "Tales of the Muns- 
ster Festivals," and "The Invasion." In poetry, "Mary 
of the Curling Hair," "A Place in Thy Memory Dearest" 
and the "Bridal of Malahide," are among his best efforts 
and rank very high in literature. 

The author had the honor and pleasure of being a 
pupil of Gerald Griffin's sister who taught school in 
Binghamton, N. Y., in 1855. 

Many people wonder why Cork was thus named. To 
satisfy their curiosity, which is pardonable, I will say 
that history tells us the name was derived from Carroch, 
a swamp; its location on a marshy island justifying the 
appelation. 

Cork was founded in the sixth Century and was the 
scene of many battles, conflagrations, sieges, etc. It 



226 INCIDENTS OF 

still survives and is a city well worthy of the tourists' 
attention. 

THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY 

Any one who makes a tour of Ireland without 
visiting the Lakes of Killarney will regret it the longest 
day he lives, if he can fully realize what he has missed. 
No writer has ever yet done full justice to this beautiful 
region. I have visited the famous lakes of Italy and 
Switzerland, also those of England and Scotland, but 
have found none of them to compare in romantic beauty 
with the Irish lakes. 

Enclosed by wooded mountains and verdant plains, 
their glories are enhanced by the many charming islets 
that dot their silvery surfaces, and the grand old ruins 
that adorn their silent shores. "The beauty of the Lakes 
does not so much depend on the grandeur of the encir- 
cling mountains, clothed with purple gorse and heather, 
the number of the green or rocky islands or the luxuri- 
ance and graces of the foliage, as on the unequaled com- 
bination of all as an ever varying scene. Here the 
myrtle loves the soil; the trailing Arbutus thrives better 
than on the sunny shores of Italy, the green is of a 
livelier hue than elsewhere; the hills glow with a richer 
purple ; the varnish of the holly and ivy more glossy and 
berries of a brighter red, peep through foliage of a 
brighter green." 

It was raining the morning we started out from the 
Village of Killarney to visit the Lakes. From our hotel 
we took jaunting cars to the entrance of the Gap of 
Dunloe. As the road through this gap or mountain defile 
is narrow and rugged we were obliged, on our arrival. 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 227 

to either walk up the steep incline or ride the ponies 
which were there in great numbers. Several of our 
party hired the animals and attempted to ride, but the 
ascent was so steep and the ponies' unsaddled backs so 
slippery with the falling rain, that we found ourselves 
unable to keep our seats. First one would slide off over 
the rear of his steed, then another and so until the entire 
party was put "hors de combat" for certain. It was 
very fortunate that the horses were only ponies in size, 
otherwise we might have received some serious injuries. 
The only thing left for us now was walking. This we 
heroically started out to do. As we trudged wearily 
along up the steep, rocky glen we heard two or three 
echoes that sounded something like overgrown fire- 
crackers. As we approached the source of the noise, we 
discovered a hearty looking kid of about seventeen sum- 
mers and as many winters, standing guard over a toy 
cannon about the size of a brass candlestick. With a 
tone of authority he asked us to pay for his uncalled for 
salute. Not feeling in the very best humor after our 
tiresome tramp, we told him we respectfully declined to 
accede to his peremptory demands. Well then said he 
"ye must pay me for me powdher at laste." "Not a bit 
of it my fresh young gossoon," said I, "for if you had 
asked a donation in a respectful manner, we would have 
been pleased to surrender; but as you have assumed an 
air of impudence in this matter, we wish to teach you a 
wholesome lesson by refusing your demands, at least 
when you act the role of an amateur highwayman." 

Next point of interest was the famous Cottage of Kate 
Kearney. I call the home famous, although the original 
Kate no longer caters to the lovers of goat's milk and 



228 INCIDENTS OF 

"mountain dew." She was gathered to her fore-mothers 
some years ago. Her granddaughter, who is now a 
woman well along in the sixties, attends faithfully to the 
thirst of the hardy mountaineer, and meets all tourists 
just outside of her cottage door with a generous jug of 
goat's milk and a full flask of "mountain dew." Our 
party generally declined her invitation to take a drink, 
as the containers did not possess that freshness of ap- 
pearance that is always so inviting to the thirsty. We 
entered the cabin however and registered our names on 
a large book kept there for that purpose. In looking 
over the list, I discovered the familiar autograph of my 
old friend, Doctor L. A. Sayre of New York, who had 
been there the week before. I also saw many other 
names of distinguished tourists from America. We pur- 
chased several articles of bog oak which were on sale. 
By the way, this bog oak is a very hard and heavy wood 
and is as black and beautiful as ebony, for which it is 
often taken. It is found buried deep in the bogs of Ire- 
land, where it has lain probably for thousands of years, 
in fact there is no limit to the time it may have been under 
the ground. It is very durable and is excellent for 
carved work. Canes, crosses, rings, etc., are made from it 
and eagerly sought for as souvenirs by tourists. 

After leaving Kate Kearney's Cottage we proceeded 
up the Glen. On our way we met a bevy of plump, rosy 
cheeked colleens who were busily knitting stockings as 
they slowly wended their way over the mountain road. 
They kindly asked us if we would buy some of the 
finished work which they carried under their arms. 
Their manner was so demure and charming that many 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 229 

of our party purchased heavy woolen stockings that they 
really did not know what to do with. 

A TUMBLE DOWN THE MOUNTAIN SIDE 

As we reached the top of the glen, the descent to the 
lakes began. Some went by the road which was a long 
way around but I and another eager tourist took the 
short cut down the mountain side — yes down the very 
Reeks of Magilicuddy, in order to save time. Subse- 
quent events however will show the old adage to be true : 
"The longest way 'round is the shortest way home." 

Not knowing the risks thus rashly assumed, we started 
off on our downward journey. All went fairly well 
until we reached some shaly slate that gave away under 
our feet and caused us to slide in a manner, and at a gait, 
that soon became very serious and interesting. With 
difficulty we kept our feet while going down the steep 
declivity with an ever increasing speed that threatened 
our safety. My companion, who was ahead of me, in 
our wild flight, struck an old stump that nearly put him 
out of commission. As I flew past him I could see that 
he was suffering from some severe injury. About that 
time I lost my footing and finished the perilous journey 
by alternately rolling and sliding to the foot of the 
mountain. As soon as I could recover my scattered 
senses, I looked about me to see in what part of the 
country Kerry I had landed. I next took an inventory 
of what clothes I had left on me and fortunately found 
at least enough to last until I could get back to my hotel. 
Several tufts of mountain furze had left their trade mark 
on me, in the shape of lacerated arms and legs and the 
rocks had contributed a number of severe bruises. 



230 INCIDENTS OF 

As I sat there nursing my aches and pains I discovered 
my companion slowly limping down the mountain. He 
complained bitterly of his thigh which was injured by 
striking against a stump. We remained there for some 
time comparing notes on the late catastrophe when we 
descried, in the distance, the wise contingent approach- 
ing. When they reached us, there were some mild re- 
proaches and many I-told-you-sos, but when they investi- 
gated our torn and battered condition, sympathy took 
the place of reproach and we were kindly assisted to the 
boats which were waiting for us on the shore near by. 

Once on the water we were in a mood to forget our 
late misery and tried to enjoy the enchanting scenery 
about us. Our boatmen were jolly good fellows and did 
their best to entertain us by calling attention to the 
principal points of interest as they rowed along. When 
we passed the "Eagles* Nest," a rugged, pyramidal rock 
on the shore which rises nearly 1000 feet up the moun- 
tain side, we were treated to an unusual display of 
sylvan melody. A bugler in our boat blew a melodious 
blast from his brazen horn, which was quickly echoed 
from the rugged rocks and wooded shores beyond, and 
followed by nearly a dozen repetitions. The echoes were 
far more striking than those I heard in the Pantheon at 
Paris where they are the wonder of all visitors. Those 
of Killarney seemed to come from a great distance and 
sounded for all the world like a band of musicians 
stationed in the riparian forests. 

INNISFALLEN 

Of all the islands I saw in the lakes, that of Innis- 
fallen was the most interesting. The boatmen were 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 231 

about to pass it when I requested them to make a landing 
that I might visit that hallowed spot, so famous in the 
annals of Ireland's early history, and made also inter- 
esting by the charm thrown around it by the poetry of 
Moore. I went over to the ruins of the old Abby, built 
in the year 600 by St. Finian. There are some portions 
of the walls yet standing and a tree is shown near them, 
under which it is said the body of the saint is buried. 
In this Abbey the celebrated Annals of Innis fallen were 
written. It contains certain passages from the Old 
Testament and a compendium of universal history down 
to the time of St. Patrick. 

Before leaving this famous isle, I took, as a souvenir, 
a small stone from the ruined walls of the Old Abbey and 
mentally repeated with Moore: 

''Sweet Innisfallen, long shall dwell 
In Memory's dream that sunny smile 
Which o'er thee on that evening fell 
When first I saw thy fairy isle." 

We made a complete tour of the three lakes in a row- 
boat and, as we wound around and between the numerous 
islands, I was reminded of the many traditions connected 
with them and of the celebrities of the past who once 
lived there. 

Being more than satisfied with our day's outing we 
landed on the shore of Lough Leane and returned to our 
hotel for the night. 

On our way back from the Lakes of Killarney we took 
the Prince of Wales Route which afforded us a delightful 
ride through the mountains of Kerry. Just as we were 
entering the town of Bandon a passenger called my ^t- 



232 INCIDENTS OF 

tention to the fact that it was here that Dean Swift 
posted on the town gate the following lines : 

"Turk, Jew or Atheist 
May enter here 
But not a Papist." 

His servant, who was late in getting there, read the 
inscription and concluding it was some of his eccentric 
master's doings, added the following rejoinder : 

Whoever wrote this, did write it well 

For the same is written on the gates of hell. 

By the way, I think I mentioned somewhere else in 
this volume that I happened to be in St. Patrick's 
Church in Dublin in 1889 when they dug up the bones 
of the odd old Dean and those of his darling Stella. 

GOUGANE BARRA 

When St. Finbarr left his little island in the lonely 
lake of Gougane Barra he founded a cathedral in Cork on 
the site of a pagan temple. He afterward added to it 
a religious house and a school. The latter soon attained 
such fame that students flocked to it from different parts 
of Europe until nearly a thousand were being educated 
within its walls. To St. Finbarr's founding of this 
school is ascribed the origin of the city of Cork. 

History tells us "The City thrived for nearly 300 
years and then came the sea rovers, hungry for spoil, 
who in 820 burned the city, killed a number of inhabi- 
tants and even carried off the silver coffin in which St. 
Finbarr was buried. They returned shortly afterward 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 233 

and seized on the marshes below the city, fortified them 
and started to build a city of their own. They sang 
their 'Mass of the Lances/ which began with the rising 
of the sun, and, as the annals of the 'Four Masters' 
state, 'Whensoever they marched, they were escorted by 
fire/ But in time even these rovers were absorbed. 
They paid tribute to the McCarthys and were married 
and given in marriage to the Irish. 

"The Lagas of the North tell us of many a hardy 
Norseman who fell captive to the charms of the Cork 
maidens, and Danish blood mingles with the Celtic in 
the veins of many an inhabitant of the City by the Lee. 
The passionate fondness for the sea of so many men of 
Cork indicates this ancestral strain." 

The name Gougane Barrow, as I understand it, means 
the source of the river. It is a little lake near the foot 
of Mount Malloch and is the source or origin of the river 
Lee which flows on down to the city of Cork, thence to 
the sea which it meets at Queenstown, formerly known 
as the Cove of Cork. Callanan, an Irish poet of the 
early forties, thus sings of the lovely isle in this romantic 
little lake: 

"There is a green island in lovely Gougane Barra 

When Alius of songs rushes out like an arrow 
In deep-valleyed Desmond a thousand wild fountains 

Come down to that lake from their home in the mountains. 
There grows the wild ash; and a time-stricken willow 

Looks chidingly down on the mirth of the billow. 
As like some gay child that sad monitor scorning 

It lightly laughs back to the laugh of the morning." 
And its zone of dark hills — oh! to see them all bright'ning 

When the tenipest flings out its red banner of lightning 
And when the waters come down 'mid the thunder's deep rattle 



234 INCIDENTS OF 

Like the clans from the hills at the voice of the battle; 
And brightly the fire-crested billows are gleaming: 

Oh, where is the dwelling in valley or highland 
So sweet for a bard as this lone little island?" 

As I saw it, the dark green mantle of the lovely moun- 
tain, set off with plumes of purple heather and the silvery- 
sheen of murmuring streams, was an inspiring theme for 
the young poet's plaintive reverie. There appears to be an 
indescribable fascination about this quiet region although 
the very atmosphere seems to breathe an air of retro- 
spective meditation and solemnity that is very impressive. 

Among the many tourists who have visited Gougane 
Barra I know of none who is more enthusiastic about it 
than the Hon. Eugene J. Mack, former Comptroller of 
the City of Syracuse. He was born a few miles from 
there and frequently entertains his friends by telling 
them of the charms of that interesting region. 

TRIALS OF A TOURIST 
To get a fair start for the following narrative I will 
commence by relating my experience at the Kingsford 
Hotel in Queenstown, Ireland. The Cove of Cork, as 
this place was formerly called, is known as the "jumping 
off place" by emigrants who leave their native land, never 
to return, and well might it be, for how many thousands 
have there bid a sorrowful and final farewell to home 
and friends that they never again will behold. 

VEXATION ON LAND STORM AT SEA 

In order to be in time for the steamer, which was to 
leave in the morning for America, I left Cork for Queens- 
town the night before and put up at the Kingsford 
Hotel which was said to be the best one there. It was 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 235 

kept by an Englishman, of course. I asked for a 
good room and to my dismay, when I was about to 
retire for the night, I was assigned to one on the fourth 
floor. It was large enough; in fact, its amplitude but 
added to the gloom that everywhere prevailed. The 
walls were dingy and damp and the bed, which would 
hold six, was flat and as hard as the soft side of a hem- 
lock plank. I found on the antique mantlepiece a tallow 
candle, in a cheap tin holder, which cast a feeble light— ^ 
just enough to locate the bed and two crippled chairs 
which kept company with a sorry looking old washstand. 
To complete the "superb" furnishings of the room a 
ragged old carpet vainly struggled to hide the defects in 
the well-worn floor. For such "accommodations" I was 
expected to pay first class price. If it had not been a 
stormy night I would have sought other quarters, but, as 
it was, I had to make the best of it. 

Sometime in the night I reached out for the watch in 
my vest which I had hung on a chair near the bed, and 
went over to the mantel to light the tallow dip that I 
might see the time ; but to my sorrow I could not find a 
match, for the simple reason that none was there. In 
this dilemma I went out into the hall to call some one, 
but my loudest invocations got no answer save the echoes 
of my own lonely voice which resounded from dreary 
labyrinths of the ancient tavern. In utter despair I re- 
turned to the room but not to bed, for sleep was impos- 
sible in such a place. For hours I paced up and down 
that dark and chilly room, anxiously longing for the 
blessed daylight that I might escape from such horrible 
surroundings. When light did come I wearily made my 
way down a trio of rickety stair flights. The street door 



236 INCIDENTS OF 

was locked and not one of the servants could be found 
to open it. By this time I had become somewhat desper- 
ate in my determination to get out of that old prison, and 
by stentorian shouts finally aroused the janitor who made 
his appearance in a half muddled condition. A generous 
tip induced him to open the door before the regulation 
hour. I immediately made my escape out into the open 
air. Although it was raining, I was glad to get out on 
the street where I could while away the dreary hours until 
the starting of the little boat that would take us to the 
steamer which lay at anchor in the harbor. 

As I strolled up and down the quay in front of the 
business section of the town, I was much interested in 
watching the sea gulls and crows that covered the pave- 
ments. In their efforts to collect stray bits of garbage 
many vigorous fights were pulled off between the blacks 
and whites, the latter always getting the lion's share. 
All were so fearless from the dint of hunger that they 
would fairly trip one up if he tried to walk among them. 

After thus whiling away a few dismal, drizzly hours I 
reluctantly returned to the hotel to settle up and go 
through the form of having breakfast, for my horrible ex- 
perience during the night had banished all appetite. In 
the dining room we were served by punctilious old wait- 
ers who frequently regaled themselves by audibly mak- 
ing fun of the Yankees and even went so far as to 
imitate the nasal twang so often heard in America. My 
feelings were not lacerated thereby as I am not an advo- 
cate of the twang. However if the hotel wished a con- 
tinuance of American patronage this did not exhibit 
much keen diplomacy. I am sure I would never 
patronize the Kingsford Hotel again, even if I had to 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 237 

spend the night on the street with the black crows and 
white seagulls. 

I purposely give my experience there to warn tourists 
to always inspect rooms and accommodations in Queens- 
town hotels before accepting them. In fact it is a good 
plan to do so in any hotel on the other side. 

I had much difficulty in getting my luggage down to 
the dock where the lighter was waiting to take us out 
to the steamer. All was confusion at the hotel, luggage 
of different guests was mixed, the porters were late and 
the running, racing and shouting during the exodus 
would be amusing were it not that our fear of being late 
for the ship banished all hilarity on our part. 

On my way to the lighter I passed an old vessel at the 
wharf. On its wet deck lay stretched at full length sev- 
eral sailors who were enjoying a morning snooze, al- 
though the rain was coming down on them in a cold driz- 
zle that would chill a North Pole explorer. The laws of 
hygiene seemed suspended for their special benefit, that 
is to say if they escaped a fatal attack of pneumonia. 

Having reached the lighter, which was too small for the 
crowd, we were taken out to the Steamship Nevada which 
was anchored about a mile away. I was very much dis- 
appointed at the size of the ship which was to take us 
across the broad Atlantic. If I had known of her antique 
and dilapidated appearance I would never have accepted 
a passage on her. She resembled an overgrown canal 
boat more than an ocean steamer. Here again I warn 
tourists to always learn something of the vessel on which 
they are to take passage. The time we came over was at 
the height of the return season for tourists. As we had 



238 INCIDENTS OF 

not previously engaged a homeward passage we were 
obliged to take any vessel offered. 

Once aboard the old Nevada we set about making the 
best of a bad bargain by putting our stateroom in order 
and settling down for a tedious voyage for we knew the 
old hulk would break no records for speed. 

The first morning on board turned out pleasant, as the 
rain had ceased and the sun shone cheeringly. Most of 
the time was spent on deck viewing the receding coasts 
of old Ireland and making new acquaintances among the 
passengers. 

In the early evening a change came over the scene. 
The sky in the west became suddenly darkened and the 
sea raised and lowered as if some unseen force from be- 
low were agitating it. The sailors called it a ground 
swell, the precursor of a storm. We could not under- 
stand the phenomenon as there was no wind at the time. 
Soon we began to realize we were in for it, as a stiff 
breeze came up in a hurry and was quickly followed by a 
gale that soon developed into a furious hurricane. My 
roommate, Sirius Belknap, and I were exchanging ex- 
periences in a sheltered corner of the deck when a sailor 
came running up to us and said we had better go below 
as soon as possible for everything must be shut down as 
we were soon to have a fearful storm. "Why lads, it's 
blowin' great guns now," said he, as he rushed off to 
help the men with the life boats. 

When we reached our stateroom all was confusion. 
The ship rolled and pitched about like a mere toy at the 
mercy of the roaring sea. The hurricane's keen blast swept 
the white crests of the foaming waves and hurled them 
to the clouds so that sky and water seemed all one. The 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 239 

shrieking of the gale through the ship's rigging was like 
the weird wail of lost ones struggling in the sea. Soon 
came crashing sounds from the steerage below as of the 
smashing of furniture that was being thrown about. 
These were supplemented with screams from the 
occupants of those quarters as they had been submerged 
with water that entered through the broken porthole 
windows. Husbands clung to their wives, children to 
their parents, and in their despair all were frantically 
rushing about for a place of safety while loudly uttering, 
what seemed to them, their last prayers. 

In our room things were also interesting. Sirius was 
silent for a time as if in deep meditation. He at first 
tried to be indifferent, but when the storm increased in 
fury he gave away to most abject fear and began to think 
his time had come to enter the great unknown. With 
trembling hands he reached above and took down a life 
preserver which he proceeded to fasten around him. 
During the process he became piously retrospective and 
in a monotonous monologue began to recount the good 
deeds of his past life, after which he humbly asked for- 
giveness for any possible transgression during his event- 
ful career. "Well," said he, "I suppose my time has come 
and I will never, never see home or friends again. I am 
sorry to be taken away so suddenly, for we must all 
surely go to the bottom this time; nothing can save us. 
I know I have been upright, never injured anybody and 
have always tried to set a good example. I have left my 
folks in good circumstances and suppose I might as well 
go now as any time." 

While uttering this doleful soliloquy he tugged and 
pulled away at the life belt, which was evidently too 



240 INCIDENTS OF 

small for him. When trying to make ends meet, the 
buckle broke and a strap gave way. Losing all patience, 
and for the moment forgetting impending danger, he 
gave way to his frenzied feelings and exclaimed loudly 
with an earnestness born of sheer desperation: "O, 

what's the matter with this d old belt; it's rotten. 

It's busted just when I want to use it. I knew by the 
looks of the d old ship that the blankety blank own- 
ers were frauds. They can all take the running jump 
and land plumb into h ." 

About this time I'll confess I began to feel pretty 
doubtful of ever reaching terra firma. Perspiration 
stood in heavy beads on my anxious countenance and, as 
Virgil says, "my voice clung to my jaws," but when I 
heard Sirius get off that mixed monologue I could not 
retain my risibility. In the midst of the panic I broke 
out into an uncontrollable fit of laughter that fairly con- 
vulsed me. When I could control my voice I said, "Sir- 
ius, tut, tut, that's no way to meet St. Peter — with an 
oath on your lips and an anger in your heart. You ought 
to be exceedingly ashamed of yourself. Moreover, it's 
no use putting on that life preserver for if you were 
thrown into the sea the first wave would cast you higher 
than Gilderoy's kite and when you came down it's ten to 
one you'd land in the open jaws of a frisky shark. The 
poor hungry fish would be so annoyed at finding you en- 
cumbered with those ugly blocks of cork that he would 
show you no mercy at all." 

By this time the storm had somewhat abated and Sir- 
ius felt so much relieved by my timely remarks that he 
broke into a prolonged cachcinnation that became almost 
hysterical. As the winds went down and the storm les- 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 241 

sened he also became more calm until he finally remarked 
with an air of relief that perhaps we had better return 
to the deck and enjoy life a little longer. Out of the 
eight lifeboats only three remained, the rest having been 
swept overboard. Sails were torn to tatters and every- 
thing loose on deck had been claimed by the sea. 

When the danger was past and cool judgment had re- 
placed furious frenzy, the passengers loudly expressed 
gratitude for their safety. To formally testify to the 
efficiency of the officers and sailors, a meeting was called 
in the music room where speeches were made and resolu- 
tions adopted, honoring the men who had so bravely 
guided us safely through the most terrific storm we had 
ever experienced. 

A RAMBLING REVILER 

According to last week's Chronicle the "Hon." E. 
Z. Barlow, had to go all the way to Ireland to ex- 
hibit a suit of secondhand duds and to vent his 
hereditary spleen. He says: "I never was in a 
spot before where I felt conspicuous for being decently 
dressed. Poor, dear old dirty Ireland!" When he re- 
turns he ought to present those well-worn togs to the 
Historical Society, as they caused so much curiosity 
when, as he says: "The natives looked at us and we 
looked at them." By "them" I suppose he meant his 
clothes to see if he had them on straight. It appears he 
was as successful in finding dirt as some others who are 
constantly looking for it. He need not have left Syra- 
cuse to satisfy his longings in that direction; a visit to 
Orange Alley or the Patch might have satisfied his de- 
sires for the seamy side of human nature. In fact the 



242 INCIDENTS OF 

slums of London or Liverpool ought to have been quite as 
savory to him as the peasants' pigpens on the outskirts 
of the little town of Killarney. 

A truthful description of the grand streets of Dub- 
lin, Cork or Belfast, or of the fashionably dressed men and 
women of those cities, would be impossible for a tourist 
like Barlow. The beautiful Lakes of Killarney, the won- 
ders of the Giant's Causeway, or the magnificent watering 
places, would never appeal to a mind like his, for it is 
not able to appreciate the beautiful, the sublime, the 
noble, especially when he sees it in Ireland, but must 
needs seek out the dirty part of every place and even the 
unfortunate poor, as fair specimens of the Emerald Isle. 

Speaking of the revival of the Gaelic language, he 
says: "I asked what was the use of it all and if it was 
not setting the hands of the clock back to revive a dead 
language." 

The Gaelic is not dead, never was dead and will not die 
as long as a language of civilization is spoken. At pres- 
ent it is the only language used in many parts of Ireland. 
The English government tried to murder it, and nearly 
succeeded, but enough is left of the glorious old tongue 
to prove its vigor, its usefulness and its beauties. It 
is now being taught in nearly all the schools of Ireland and 
in many parish schools in America. If Barlow could live 
fifty years more of his bigoted life, he might yet hear the 
Irish language spoken in the streets of Syracuse quite as 
frequently as one can hear the German of to-day. 

It really seems too bad that a certain class of tourists 
cannot content themselves with a modest and truthful 
description of places and people, without becoming con- 
spicuously offensive by their unjust and mendacious 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 243 

criticisms of persons, local customs and the misfortunes 
of a suffering community. 

When Irishmen go abroad, especially those of the 
Catholic faith, no one hears of their criticising the reli- 
gion, or finding fault with the misfortunes of the people 
and customs of which they are ignorant. Such tour- 
ists do not go snooping around into the old cathedrals of 
England seeking something to ridicule. They do not 
make themselves offensive in Protestant places of wor- 
ships by acting like Madagascar monkeys during the ser- 
vices. No, the great cathedrals of England once be- 
longed to the Catholic Church, from which they were 
wrongfully wrested, nevertheless a well bred son of Erin 
has enough of self respect to conduct himself properly 
even when in a house of worship unjustly taken from his 
co-religionists. 

They say Barlow was once a teacher in our public 
schools. He must have been a brilliant specimen of the 
average pedagogue, if his mind is so warped that he 
cannot refrain from offending a nation that has given to 
the world many of its brightest intellects. 



IX 

SCOTLAND 

WE LEFT Belfast by steamer bound for Glas- 
gow on a mild summer evening. As the 
weather was delightfully warm we remained 
on deck until nearly midnight to enjoy the balmy 
breezes of St. Patrick's Channel of the Irish Sea 
that divides Ireland from Scotland. With mind 
and body well adapted for refreshing rest, we re- 
tired to our staterooms. In the middle of the night I 
was rudely awakened by a smothered sound. I could not 
imagine whence it emanated, until at last a despairing 
howl reached my ears that betrayed, in no mistaken 
terms, the voice of my old friend Brewster. It appears 
that after trying in vain for many weary hours to court 
the little God of Sleep, he resolved to get up and go on 
deck to while the time away. As luck would have it he 
could not open his stateroom door, the inner knob being 
absent and the key lost. In this distressing dilemma he 
began to pound on the door and shout for help. The 
first faint sounds came to me as in a dream, for my 
room was some distance away. At last, however, the 
reality of his imprisonment dawned upon my awakened 
intellect and I got up and went out to search for the 
victim of an awkward dilemma. Having at last found 
his door I opened it and let him out. He seemed very 
thankful for his freedom, but not to me, as he wasn't 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 245 

built that way. After recovering from his fright he went 
on deck, and I returned to resume my slumbers. From 
that time I slept on until I was aroused by the jolting of 
the steamer as she was being moored to the dock at 
Greenock, Scotland, about 4 o'clock in the morning. I 
heard a great racket below and went down to find out 
what caused it. I then, for the first time, learned that 
the hold was filled with cattle from Ireland, which they 
were unloading. Upon inquiry I found that our boat 
would be detained there for several hours. 

I took advantage of the delay to have a look at the old 
town. It is a great place for ship building, many of the 
Cunarders having had their origin there. The streets 
are generally crooked and narrow with here and there a 
small park or esplanade to relieve their uncouth appear- 
ance. During my stroll I observed a fine looking yacht 
lying at the dock and on closer inspection found it was 
the Shamrock III, that Lipton was about to take to Amer- 
ica to contend for the cup. Subsequent events, however, 
rendered it proper to allow that bauble to remain in statu 
quo. 

Greenock boasts, with pardonable pride, of being the 
birthplace of James Watt who first proved the power of 
steam. To him a beautiful monument is erected in one 
of its principal parks. 

Leaving Greenock about ten o'clock that same morn- 
ing, we steamed up the Clyde for Glasgow. On the way 
I was much interested in the industry of ship-building 
which lines both sides of the river all along to the very 
head of navigation. As we steamed by I tried to count 
the vessels that were in course of construction, but after 



246 INCIDENTS OF 

I had gone into the hundreds I gave it up as too great 
a task for the mere tourist to tackle. 

When we had reached within a few miles of Glasgow, 
it was found very difficult to navigate our vessel, as the 
stream at that point was crowded with all sorts of craft 
and was so shallow that our propellor heaved up the very- 
mud from the bottom. Finally, after a tedious trip, we 
reached the landing at Glasgow and hurried off to our 
hotel. 

Having a letter of introduction from our mayor to the 
mayor of Glasgow we had the grand entree. Nothing 
was too good for us. The Lord Mayor invited us to a 
session of the Common Council which we attended and 
found very interesting, as the proceedings were so dif- 
ferent from what we were accustomed to at home. 
After the meeting the Mayor invited us to a dinner which 
was attended by every alderman present. 

The festivities ended, the Mayor sent out municipal 
conveyances with officials to show us about the city and 
to explain the workings of the various branches of the 
municipal government. The corporation of Glasgow be- 
lieves very much in municipal ownership. It owns all 
the street railways excepting an underground road that 
is controlled by a private company. It also owns the 
water works, electric light works, municipal lodging 
houses and other houses which are rented to the poor at 
merely nominal prices, and it is now seriously thinking 
of owning or controlling the milk supply. It has four- 
teen underground lavatories for public convenience and is 
building several more. The population is 731,675. It 
has twenty-five wards with three alderman for each ward. 
The Mayor there is called the Provost, and serves with- 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 247 

out salary as do all the aldermen and the Board of 
Health, excepting the Chief Health Officer and his in- 
spectors, clerks, etc. 

As to the sanitary arrangements of Glasgow, they are 
not only up to date, but in many respects far in advance 
of any other city in Great Britain. Dr. Chalmers, the 
efficient Health Officer, afforded me every facility to in- 
spect the works in his department. The library of the 
Health Board is one of the largest of its kind in exist- 
ence. It has reports of Health Boards from all English 
speaking countries, including the United States. Nearly 
every city is represented on its shelves. As I had a copy 
of the fifteenth annual report of the Syracuse Board of 
Health, I gave it to the librarian and it now graces the 
shelves of that magnificent library. 

In this city garbage is disposed of by cremation. Sew- 
age from the greater portion of the city is disinfected, 
deodorized and filtered, the residue being used for fer- 
tilizing. The enormous plant used for this purpose is 
very intricate and elaborate but does its work perfectly. 
To show how much confidence the officers have in the 
filtered water, one of them filled a glass and, in my pres- 
ence, drank from it. His faith was greater than mine. I 
don't think St. Thomas himself could believe the water 
was pure if he had seen and smelled what it was filtered 
from. 

These great works were constructed for the purpose 
of preventing the pollution of the waters of the Clyde 
which runs through the heart of the city. The annual 
cost of running these works is $300,000, so you see Glas- 
gow is keenly solicitous for the health of its citizens. 

The shipbuilding interests of Glasgow are the largest 



248 



INCIDENTS OF 



in the world. For miles on either side of the river the 
banks are covered with iron and steel ships in all stages 
of construction. Nearly all the great nations are having 
ships built here ; Japan, China and Russia being among 
its patrons. 



X 

LONDON 

LONDON, the great metropolis of the world, cer- 
tainly deserves the title. The public buildings, 
monuments, bridges, etc., form a mammoth mus- 
eum, the details of which would require years of re- 
search and study. During the few days I had to remain 
there, I visited the principal objects of interest. West- 
minster Abbey, which no true tourist misses, of course is 
familiar to nearly everybody, through either pictorial or 
written descriptions. On entering the ancient edifice I 
was amazed to behold the forest of statuary with which 
it is literally filled. Kings, sages, poets and statesmen 
lie buried here and their tombs are enriched with the 
choicest sculpture. No one can realize the vastness and 
elegance of this huge edifice without entering its solemn 
portals and devoting hours to a careful survey of its mag- 
nificence. 

TOWER OF LONDON 

In the Tower of London I saw, among many relics, 
the axe of the executioner and the block on which many 
scions of royalty and noblemen lost their heads. The 
marks left by the axe are still plainly visible where it en- 
tered deeply into the wood after its bloody work. The 
jewel room of the Tower contains the veritable crown, 
scepter and jewels worn by His Majesty on official and 



250 INCIDENTS OF 

state occasions. They can be seen by the public, but 
are under a strong guard day and night. I saw there, 
also, several scepters, jewels and regalia of England's 
former kings and queens. In the Bloody Tower were i 
executed the two sons of Edward IV. Sir Walter • 
Raleigh and several other persons of note were im- 
prisoned here. The several bridges of London that 
cross the Thames are grand old structures and it is well 
worth while for the observant tourist to devote a good 
portion of his time in viewing their unique and magnificent 
architecture. I crossed most of them during my several 
visits and was well rewarded in the view which is far 
more grand and extensive than any other that can be 
obtained in the city. It was very interesting to stand on 
Westminster Bridge and take in the vast panorama of the 
widespreading Thames with its floating multitude of 
craft from every portion of the Globe, hurrying to and 
fro in a continued whirl of bewildering excitement that 
fills the beholder with a realization of England's far 
reaching wealth and power. 

Here we met Mr. E. J. Goodwin, an accomplished 
gentleman and a nephew of Robert Goodwin, a former 
well-known photographer of Syracuse. In anticipation 
of our arrival he decorated his parlor with American 
colors and draped the picture of his visitors with minature 
American flags — a compliment as grand as the idea was 
original. We felt that no more acceptable honor could 
have been paid us, even if His Majesty's Light Dragoons 
had met us at Victoria Station. 

Mr. Goodwin escorted us across the Thames, or rather 
under it, as we went through a tunnel beneath the river. 
This tunnel, or tube, as they call it there, is a great work 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 251 

of engineering. Its sides and top are veneered with 
white enameled brickwork which gives it an air of clean- 
liness and comfort. As the cars are run by electricity it 
is possible to keep it very clean and bright. On a former 
occasion, when I went through this tunnel, steam engines 
were used, and as a consequence, the passengers were 
almost suffocated with smoke and covered with cinders; 
the latter of which had an insinuating way of lodging 
beneath the upper eyelid to the great discomfort of the 
recipient. Landing on the other side, he led the way to 
the great India Exhibition which was then being held in 
the suburbs of London. We were pleasantly entertained 
by viewing the grand displays from all parts of the 
world. Among the attractions was a large revolving 
wheel, built on the plan of the Ferris Wheel, which was 
so much in evidence at the last Chicago Exposition, but 
much larger, being fifty feet greater in diameter. The 
cars attached to it were as large as common trolley cars. 
Mrs. Doyle and I took a ride in this mammoth wheel 
which revolved very slowly; so much so that after we 
reached the top we were rather sorry we attempted the 
perilous revolution, as we feared we would never get to 
the ground in safety. The great wheel was very un- 
steady and wabbled about so that the passengers became 
timid and many of them even hysterical. Among the 
attractions was a shute, the first I ever saw, and that was 
fifteen years ago. It was very similar to those now seen 
at Coney Island and other summer resorts but constructed 
on a much larger scale. It was a novelty at that time 
and a great attraction for the fair. I had my camera 
with me but found it was forbidden to take any photo- 
graphs on the grounds, as the concessions for that privi- 



252 INCIDENTS OF 

lege had been secured by an enterprising firm. Mr. 
Goodwin, however, found a way out of the difficulty. A 
policeman, or bobby as they call them there, was standing 
by and my friend slipped a shilling into his willing hand 
which caused him to carelessly turn his baclc while I 
surreptitiously snapped a few of the interesting scenes 
surrounding us. It is said that all is fair in war and love 
and why not in photography on such occasions ? 

I met a gentleman on the grounds who wanted to know 
how large a town Dakota was. Another "fawncied that 
we burned wood altogether in Hamerica." 

One of the most interesting sights among the exhibits 
was a fountain of quicksilver or mercury. The heavy 
liquid was forced through pipes up into the air by power- 
ful pumps hidden beneath the floor. The mercury fell 
back in brilliant showers into a great basin or reservoir. 
In the latter could be seen floating sections of iron 
railroad ties, bricks, etc. It was an odd sight, but when 
we remember that mercury is so much heavier than iron 
it was not at all surprising. 

THE BRITISH MUSEUM 

The British Museum was originated by an Irishman, 
Sir Hans Sloane. He willed that his cabinet of curios- 
ities, consisting of a collection of minerals and specimens 
of natural history, with his library of fifty thousand 
volumes and hundreds of rare manuscripts, must be 
offered to the British nation for 20,000 pounds or 
$100,000. The government accepted the offer and pur- 
chased the collection. The Montague House on Great 
Russell Street was selected as the home of these treas- 
ures which have from time to time been supplemented 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL 253 

with countless additions, until to-day this museum is the 
largest and by far the most valuable in the world. The 
present building, which replaces the old Montague House, 
covers an area of seven acres. It would require more 
than an average lifetime to even casually observe the 
different objects of interest. I made several visits there 
as I am intensely interested in antiquities, and if I had 
been born with a silver spoon in my mouth would un- 
doubtedly have been an antiquarian. I would rather 
possess a small piece of brick and mortar from one of the 
ancient palaces of Nineveh than a large block of stock 
from a mythical copper mine. The whole world and 
every age of man has contributed to this vast collection. 

Hawthorne says : "One need not go beyond the limits 
of the British Museum to be profoundly accomplished in 
all branches of science, art and literature; only it would 
take a lifetime to exhaust it in any one department. As 
I stood here among the winged lions of Nineveh, the 
mouldering tombs of Thebes, the classic statues from 
ancient Greece and the precious works of art from the 
ruins of pagan Rome, I realized that the past and present 
were here united as in no other place on earth." 

I was much interested in the old manuscripts. Among 
those I examined was a Bible written in 464, known as 
the Alexandrian Bible. It is said to be the oldest manu- 
script Bible now in existence. A great curiosity to me 
was the original Magna Charta, or "Charter of Liber- 
ties," signed so unwillingly by King John at Runnymede, 
June 15, 1215. There were also royal documents signed 
by King Canute, Edward the Confessor, and a mortgage 
deed dated 1613, signed by William Shakespeare ; also a 



254 INCIDENTS OF 

deed of sale written and signed by John Milton, 1667, 
for the disposal of his poem, "Paradise Lost." 

Having spent several hours in the museum, we hired a 
hansom to take us to Charing Cross Hotel where we 
were stopping. As we rode along we fully enjoyed the 
busy street scenes of lively London and time went on in 
this pleasant manner until we expected to arrive at our 
destination, as it was but a few short blocks from the 
museum. Instead of a fifteen minute ride we were 
treated to one of an hour. It appears the cabby took 
a roundabout route instead of the direct one, so that he 
could get a larger fare, as they charge for the time on 
the road. Being somewhat familiar with the streets of 
London I perceived the trick and, when I came to pay, 
gave him the regular fare for the direct route, whereat 
he grumbled and demanded more as he was out so long. 
I told him he had made a roundabout drive for the pur- 
pose of increasing his fare. When he saw I was up to 
the trick, he became furious and made some ugly threats. 
I told him I would take his number and report him at 
the nearest cab station. He then hurriedly mounted his 
box while belching forth sulphurous oaths that would 
shake the foundations of a church, and drove off to his 
station on the Embankment. 



XI 

ADDENDA 

ADDRESS AT NIAGARA— PAST, PRESENT, 

FUTURE 

Early Reminiscences — Struggles That Make Men 

— ^Advice 

(From the Catholic Union and Times. Buffalo, July 2, 1885.) 

THE following is a very interesting address de- 
livered by Dr. Gregory Doyle, of Syracuse, N. 
Y., before the graduates of Niagara University, 
at the commencement exercises, June 23rd, 1885. Dr. 
Doyle was introduced in a few brief, happy remarks by 
Very Rev. P. V. Kavanaugh, President of the Institu- 
tion, and a former classmate of Dr. Doyle's : 

Right Reverend Bishop, Reverend Gentlemen, Friends: 
Nearly eight and twenty eventful years have come and 
gone since I arrived at Monteagle Heights. After a 
long and tedious journey I found myself in the midst of 
this sublime scenery. Lost in admiration at the wonder- 
ful works of an Omnipotent Creator I communed with 
myself, and asked if this were a dream of some fairyland, 
or was it a reality. The snow-white vapor from the 
great Cataract lifted its columns high into the zenith, as 
if offering eternal incense to the great Jehovah. At my 
feet, down deep in the bowels of the earth, rolled the 



256 ADDENDA 

azure flood of Niagara's Rapids on to Ontario's broad 
expanse. Facing me, across the mighty gorge, were the 
rocky Hmits of Queen Victoria's royal realm. As I 
turned my gaze to the sunny south, what did I behold in 
the clear horizon of the September sky ! but the relics of 
an old brick tavern. Thither I wended my way, and 
rapping at the door, was welcomed by Very Rev. John 
Joseph Lynch, who informed me that it was the Semmaiy 
of Our Lady of Angels. I was invited to enter, and, when 
it was made known that I came there as a student, I was 
warmly welcomed. I found here eleven young men in- 
dustriously pegging away at "Historia Sacra" and 
"Viri Romae" in the choicest corner of an ancient bar- 
room. As they furtively glanced at me, they no doubt 
wondered what unruly gust from the "Cave of the 
Winds" had wafted me hither. But I felt like Horace 
when he said: "Quocumque rapit tempestas deferor 
hospes :" wherever the winds carry me, I am a guest, and 
thus I felt under the kind welcome of Father Lynch. 
After I had been shown the chapel, located in the old 
dining-room, and the class-room in the tavern kitchen, I 
was assigned a cot erected in the temporary dormitory. 
When the shades of night had fallen I hied me to my 
lowly couch and, after depositing my wardrobe on a 
hickory peg that adorned the dingy wall, I sank into 
slumbers known only to the honest and weary. In the 
early morn, with the rise of the orient orb, I followed 
the other eleven to the creek hard by, to make my 
matutinal ablutions. The water was fresh and flowing, 
and whether in summer's heat or winter's frost, we daily 
repeated the same. For the want of a laundry we in- 
dulged our artistic instincts in manipulating our linen 



B. r 

n 

2. ^ 

? > 

O 

65 f^ 




ADDENDA 257 

in the purling brook. When Siberian blast made Mont- 
eagle howl we hastened to the forest hardby, and under 
the captaincy of Father Lynch, replenished our scanty 
store of fuel. Many a time, in the chilly dormitory, we 
found on arising in the morning that the bed coverings 
had been so completely stiffened with frozen mist from 
the Falls that it was necessary, before we could arise, 
to lift them up as you would the cover of a book. They 
were left standing on edge against the wall while we 
solemnly answered the "Benedicamus Domino." 

As far as fasting was concerned in those early days, 
we made a virtue of necessity and performed our tasks 
like little men. Our artistic talents were frequently 
called into requisition; while some were decorating ex- 
terior walls, others were ornamenting the humble altar, 
and all were industrious in trying to obliterate every re- 
maining vestige of the antiquated tavern, and to trans- 
form it into the semblance of an embryo Seminary. We 
met with many obstacles and much discouragement. I 
remember well, one frosty morning, when the elaborate 
decorations of our little altar took fire. We felt that 
all was gone, that our labors were in vain, but prompt 
action, on the part of the priests and students, overcame 
the devouring element and all went on as usual. Father 
Lynch, with the foresight for which he was even than 
famed, ascended the altar steps, and after returning 
thanks for our delivery, requested the students not to 
speak of the incipient conflagration, for "Fama volat 
atque crescit in volando" — report Hies and increases in 
Hying. He said that by the time it had reached Suspen- 
sion Bridge, the altar would have been consumed; when 
Buffalo was reached, the chapel would be in ashes, and 



258 ADDENDA 

when Brooklyn had heard of it, the whole Seminary and 
three or four students would have been cremated; so 
the caloric incident was carefully concealed, for the time 
being, from outside barbarians. 

The early history of the struggles and triumphs of 
the Seminary would fill pages of manuscript, and make 
very interesting reading for the students of the present 
day. I hope the time is not far distant, when some 
talented historian will do justice to the subject. 

The transformation from the struggles and difficulties 
of the past, ■ to the triumphs of to-day, has been slow, 
and interrupted by many obstacles. The great fire of 
1864 destroyed the work of many years, and a precious 
life was sacrificed. Young Thomas Hopkins crossed 
over the threshold of eternity in endeavoring to stay the 
devouring flames. Even the sight of the blackened ruins 
did not dismay the stout hearts of long ago. The saintly 
Father Rice put forth all his energies, and with the as- 
sistance of kind friends, succeeded in rearing the noble 
edifice where we are now assembled. Blessed be his 
memory! His ashes lie under the shadow of his great 
work, and the sacred soil of consecrated ground gives 
his remains their last resting place. No doubt he to-day 
looks down upon us from his Heavenly abode with that 
same paternal love that lit up his kindly features when 
here among us. 

The Seminary of Our Lady of Angels, now erected 
into a grand University, in this the most sublime region 
of the Western Hemisphere, is the literal fulfillment of 
prophetic declarations of the illustrious Arch-bishop of 
Toronto. Knowing well that Nature's grand altar* 

* Falls of Niagara. 



ADDENDA 259 

should be surrounded by the servants of God, he saw the 
propriety of erecting, within the sound of its mighty wa- 
ters, a house for the worship of the Creator and for the 
instruction of young Levites to preach the gospel of 
Christ. 

Here we are to-day assembled in this grand and spaci- 
ous edifice, equipped with all the modern improvements 
and creature comforts of the present day. What a strik- 
ing contrast to the humble structure which marked the 
beginning of Niagara University. If you fortunate 
young men of the present day had endured the priva- 
tions of the patient pioneers, I am sure you would still 
further appreciate your present surroundings and ad- 
vantages. 

To-day the young Levites who are to do battle for 
the Church militant are ably generaled by the Very Rev. 
P. V. Kavanaugh and his corps of faithful lieutenants. 

It is one of the happy remembrances of my life to 
recall that I was formerly a student in the same class 
with our honored President. At his invitation I am 
here to-day to address the graduates of Niagara Univer- 
sity. 

Gentlemen of the Graduating Class : 

Like the soldiers of an army going forth to battle, 
with buckler and shield well secured, you are now pre- 
pared for life's great struggle. The days of your early 
adolescence were, no doubt, bright and happy, with fond 
parents to guide your faltering footsteps and encourage 
you on to the consummation of what you have to-day 
achieved. 

The affection, the reverence for the good fathers and 



260 ADDENDA 

mothers who have unceasingly watched over you, will 
ever be your guiding stars, when gloom and disappoint- 
ment overtake you, or prosperity cheers you on. 

To-day is the actual commencement of your career as 
men who are willing and anxious to enter the contests 
of life. At present the distant vista of the future, is, 
no doubt, lightened up with anticipated joys and 
pleasures. 

The bright side of affairs reflects the sun of pros- 
perity; your anticipations of great achievements are 
darkened by no clouds of disappointment, and the radi- 
ance of this summer morning of your young lives gives 
courage for great undertakings. 

Take advantage of this buoyant hope and make the 
most of time ; let no opportunity slip for improving your 
minds, as your education will never be finished till the 
going down of the sun of life. 

Every day's experience will prove to you that there are 
many things yet to learn. After leaving these college 
walls you will meet with wits, sharpened by necessity and 
experience, that will call forth your best competitive en- 
ergies. Go slowly at first, festina lente. The lofty 
mountain of fame is hard to climb, and if you tire in the 
beginning, you may fail to reach the summit. The prizes 
we look for often disappoint us when gained and pall 
upon the appetite of ambition. 

Flatter not yourselves that all you undertake will be 
successful, for reverses are as sure to come as the night 
is to follow the day. I say this not to discourage or 
dishearten, but to put you on guard, as "forewarned is 
forearmed.'' Look back among your acquaintances and 
those of your parents; see how many have attained the 



ADDENDA 261 

ends aimed for, and you will find that many have failed, 
some for want of opportunity, some from misfortune, but 
the greater number from want of energy and industry. 

Those who have made the most of every opportunity 
have made a success of life. Compare the old world 
with the new. The great secret of failure in the former 
is the want of industry and energy; the secret of suc- 
cess in the latter is industry, perseverance and "gump- 
tion." Not a moment of our lives should be lost in idle- 
ness. Needed recreation is not a waste of time ; it is as 
necessary as food to recuperate the drooping energies of 
mind and body. We are going through this world on 
the last trip; for life's voyage will be made but once. 
Remember well that "there is a tide in the affairs of 
men which, taken at the flood, leads on to Fortune." 
But do not let the greed of gold take possession of your 
hearts ; worship not at the shrine of Mammon, let not the 
fickle goddess lure you on to rashness. "How quickly 
Nature falls into revolt when gold becomes her object." 
Do not let it be said of you as it was of the miser of old : 

"A cautious look around he stole, 
His bags of chink he chunk, 
And many a wicked smile he smole, 
And many a wink he wunk." 

Behold the greed of money-seekers. A Shylock was 
not half so unprincipled, so reckless as the Buddenseiks 
of to-day. To pour gold into their coffers, they build 
walls of muddy mortar and discarded chips. The bal- 
loon structures tumble down on the heads of devoted 
workers, or overwhelm poor tenants, carrying them down 
to death and destruction. 



262 ADDENDA 

But a few days ago a steamer exploded on Lake Onon- 
daga, killing captain and engineer. At the coroner's 
inquest it was shown that the boiler had not been in- 
spected or repaired for years, and the owner of the boat 
lost his life as a penalty of his greed. Men have gone 
so far as to commit suicide, not being able to cope with 
their neighbors in extravagance and style. Defaulters 
in banks are made so by overreaching their means and 
gambling in stocks, hoping thereby to become suddenly 
rich. Honest wealth is accumulated slowly and by per- 
serving industry. The sweetness in the enjoyment of a 
fortune, great or small, is to know that you are its hon- 
est architect. Be not tired in doing all you can to make 
yourselves and others happy. Cultivate a happy dis- 
position. Cheerfulness is the sunlight of life. No one 
ever gained a friend, or advanced his interests by being 
gloomy or morose. Pleasant manners and politeness are 
potent factors in a successful career. "Honey catches 
more flies than vinegar." Even when suffering under 
affliction, it is better not to burden your friends with 
your woes, but to bear them manfully in the recesses of 
your mind. The flatterer will meet you with his oily 
tongue and play upon your egotism, as David played 
the harp of a thousand strings. He will cringe at your 
feet like a very serpent and wind around you coils of 
adulation. The moment this attempt to thus win you 
over is discovered, his true character is manifested. He 
will insert his venomous fangs and make you feel his 
sting. "No visor does become black villany so well as 
soft and tender flattery." 

A man who lets his passions get the better of him is 
weak in character and individuality. He is unfit for the 



ADDENDA 263 

duties of life and intercourse with his fellow men. 
"Give me the man that is not passion's slave, and I will 
wear him in my heart's core." 

If you cannot govern your own passions, how are you 
to control those of others ? Anger dethrones reason and 
reduces man to the level of the brute that uses force to 
assert its superiority. How many disasters have come 
from unbridled anger. "Good name in man or woman 
is the immediate jewel of their souls." Guard well your 
reputation, throw around it the sentinels — ^prudence, 
sagacity and vigilance. Be prudent in every undertak- 
ing, weigh it well beforehand, look well at its dark, as 
well as its bright side. Take ample time to consider. 
Be sharp. Look out for whom you are dealing with, 
study well his character, let not stylish clothes and a fine 
address captivate or control you. If you meet the 
ephemeral dude, let him alone severely. 

The crank is meeting his just deserts, and the prince 
of the craft lately gained in Washington that elevated 
notoriety which he long had sought. 

Odium gained an unenviable reputation by throwing 
himself from the Brooklyn Bridge into the East River, 
and it is now requiring a squad of Metropolitan police to 
prevent his cranky followers from doing likewise. 

Never fail to show gratitude and appreciation for any 
favor that may be shown you. Remember that you 
make yourself a debtor to your benefactor, and you 
should be loyal and true to him under all circumstances 
and at all times. It is only those, with degenerate or 
sinister minds, who will ever find a pretext to injure 
friends who helped them in their hour of need. 

Be not economical with the truth. It is a valuable 



264 ADDENDA 

asset, but should be used liberally — aye, even lavishly. 
"An honest man is the noblest work of God." 

Always be able to say to a detractor, if you should 
have any, that you fear him not if he will confine him- 
self to the truth. 

Never trade on personal friendship; business is busi- 
ness and friendship is friendship; never let the latter in- 
terfere with the former. 

See to it, in your early manhood, that it will not re- 
quire one-half of your lifetime to half know how to 
properly live the other half. Remember this trite old 
adage : 

"For of all sad words of tongue or pen. 
The saddest are these: *It might have been!'" 

Gentlemen, in order to carry out the suggestions that 
I have here made, it is necessary that you possess "Mens 
sana in corpore sano" The body should be kept in good 
condition that the mind may not be handicapped in ful- 
filling its great mission. Health is promoted, happiness 
increased and life prolonged by the contemplation of the 
beautiful in nature, art and revelation. 

Natural philosophers live longer than any other class 
of men; clergymen than either of the other professions. 
Acquire no bad habits, for it is only with the greatest 
will-power they are to be conquered. 

It is a serious question for young men to consider 
whether, on starting out in life, they will addict them- 
selves to a habit which at once wastes time, sours the 
temper, is against nature, and consequently endangers 
health and shortens life. "Those wounds heal ill that 
men do make themselves." 




Softened thunders 

Of watery wonders 
Like sacred music magnified 

Of Cherubim 

And Seraphim 
Swell to us from Niagara's tide 



ADDENDA 265 

In the slightest bodily ailment attend to yourselves at 
once. Do not neglect for a moment to seek proper 
advice, and for that purpose select a physician of ac- 
knowledged merit, a man skillful and honest in his pro- 
fession. Do not employ some adventurer of doubtful 
reputation or an itinerant vender of nostrums. You 
would not send a valuable watch to a blacksmith to be 
repaired, how much less should you entrust your health 
and life to an ignorant quack. How many people will 
risk their lives in the hands of a pretender, whom they 
would not let out of sight with their pocketbook? 

If you find yourselves in a strange place and are taken 
ill, enquire for the best surgeon in town. You will be 
sure then to get a good physician. You often hear peo- 
ple say that Dr. So and So is a good surgeon but no 
physician. Such simplicity would arouse the risibility 
of a child. One might as well say that Bishop Blank is 
a good bishop but no priest, or that Judge Brief is a good 
judge but no lawyer. 

An accurate and practical knowledge of medicine is 
as essential to the successful surgeon as theology is to 
the Bishop, or law to the Judge. Make it a point to be 
explicit, but not tedious in describing your ailments to 
your medical advisor. Be not like the man who came 
to me a short time since. He complained of a very sore 
jaw. He said, "I and a few more of the b'ys were hav- 
ing a little divarsion on the hill beyant, and som.eone 
gave me a slap of an owld shoe." After a careful ex- 
amination I found that his jaw was fractured. In as- 
tonishment, I said 1o him: "Why man, your jaw is 
broken, how could that have been done by the slap of an 



266 ADDENDA 

old shoe ?" "Ah, but moind you, there was a big fut in 
it," said he. 

The slightest departure from robust health is a danger 
signal, and should be attended to at once. By so doing, 
a long sickness or fatal one may be averted. When a 
house first takes fire and is promptly attended to, the 
flames may be quenched with a cup of water but, if 
neglected, a disastrous conflagration may occur, which 
the most active fire department cannot control. 

Next to the importance of seeing to the affairs of our 
souls is the proper care of our bodily health. . No one 
with a sickly body can have a healthy mind. 

Gentlemen, in conclusion, I will repeat to you the ever- 
to-be-remembered advice of Polonius to his son, Laertes : 

"Look thou character. Give thy thoughts no tongue, 
Nor any unproportion'd thought his act. 
Be thou familiar, but by no means vulgar. 
The friends thou hast, and their adoption tried, 
Grapple them to thy soul with hoops of steel; 
But do not dull thy palm with entertainment 
Of each new-hatch'd, unfledg'd comrade. Beware 
Of entrance to a quarrel; but, being in 
Bear't that th' opposed may beware of thee. 
Give every man thine ear, but few thy voice; 
Take each man's censure, but reserve thy judgment, 
Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy, 
But not expressed in fancy; rich, not gaudy: 
For the apparel oft proclaims the man: 
Neither a borrower, nor a lender be; 
For loan oft losses both itself and friend; 
And borrowing dulls the edge of husbandry. 
This above all, — To thine ownself be true; 
And it must follow, as the night the day, 
Thou canst not then be false to any man." 



ADDENDA 267 

REMINDERS OF NIAGARA 

(From the Catholic Sun, Syracuse.) 

In the Souvenir Volume of the World's Columbian 
Exposition, published by Niagara University, we find 
the following interesting articles (prose and poetry) 
written by Dr. Gregory Doyle when a student at that 
famous University nearly fifty years ago. They will, 
no doubt, prove very interesting to the alumni of "Old 
Niagara :" 

A THRILLING REMINISCENCE 

On a beautiful spring morning in May, 1858, a ven- 
erable priest, direct from the ancient city of Jerusalem, 
paid the Seminary a visit. In honor of our guest, 
Father Lynch granted us a holiday. Our reverend vis- 
itor, whose name I now forget, was pleased beyond ex- 
pression with the sublime grandeur of the great Niagara 
and its surroundings. At his request, a party, includ- 
ing Father Lynch, Father Leyden, himself and about 
twenty students, clambered down to the water's edge. 
This was a task by no means easy, when it is known that 
the banks or rather walls of the river in front of the 
Seminary are composed of huge, irregular rocks that 
rise almost perpendicularly to the height of nearly three 
hundred feet from the water's edge. After a good deal 
of side-stepping, sliding and tumbling, we at last 
reached the water, somewhat worse for "wear and tear." 

While musing on the sublimity of the scene we were 
startled by a cry that rocks were falling. Instinc- 
tively and suddenly looking up we were paralyzed with 
horror on seeing several large boulders slowly loosen- 
ing themselves from the "Rock of Ages" directly over 



268 ADDENDA 

and hundreds of feet above us. Oh, what wild shrieks 
and fervent ejaculations ! Some begged for mercy, some 
sought the protection of friendly rocks, while others 
fled in the wildest confusion, they knew not where. In 
the meantime, and livelier than I can tell it, the rocks 
came tumbling, leaping, crashing down through our very 
midst, in a manner compared with which cannon balls 
and bursting bombs are but child's play. Rocks met 
rocks, then came flashing fire, flying fragments and 
bursting clouds of murky dust. Old crags, which but 
an hour before might have defied the storms of ages, 
were torn from their moorings and ground to powder; 
such was the power of the mighty concussions. Ancient 
and mammoth cedars, which had withstood the whirl- 
winds and northern blasts for many long years, were 
broken and crushed like brittle reeds. The path of 
destruction left behind the fallen mass defies all descrip- 
tion. 

You will exclaim: How many were killed, or rather, 
how many were saved of our number ! The flying rocks 
whistled between us and over our heads and plunged 
beneath the foaming waters with rapid "chugs" that are 
better heard than described. 

We felt that God had miraculously saved us. Not one 
of us was seriously injured. The terror through which 
we had passed quite unnerved us and we were, for nearly 
an hour, unable to retrace our steps. Having, at last, 
regained the Seminary, we went in a body to the chapel, 
and returned thanks for our miraculous escape. We, 
then and there, resolved never more to tempt the dangers 
of Niagara by seeking it's water edge in that locality. 

The above incident inspired the following lines : 



ADDENDA 269 

FALLING ROCKS OF NIAGARA 

Beside Niagara's foaming surge 

Rise mammoth walls of rock 
That by their towering strength and pride 

Seem thundering storms to mock, 
This wondrous work of long ago 

Is grand and deep and high. 
Its base is laved by foam-capped wave. 

Its crags approach the sky. 
And here and there on hoary rocks 

The cedars cling for life 
And seem to look with majesty 

Down on the water's strife, 
Until by age or sweeping winds 

Their forms are humbled quite, 
And creaking, crashing, tumbling down 

E'en dying show their might. 
In early Spring-time, when the sun 

Shines on those frost bound walls. 
He melts their cold, bleak surfaces 

As each warm ray upon them falls. 
From time to time a massive rock. 

Its lofty seat forsakes. 
And tumbling down the craggy side. 

The aged forest shakes. 
Now leaping forth with giant might. 

It thunders down the steep 
And bounding at the water's edge. 

It plunges in the deep. 
The seething billows leap on high 

And lonely caverns break 
The silence of their gloomy haunts. 

And at the sound awake. 
Wild echoes leap from cliff to cliff. 

In accents high in air. 
For ruin, waste and sad decay 

Seem warning to prepare. 
For Time has claimed from sentinels 



270 ADDENDA 

Themselves, that braved long ages, 
Obedience to his stern decrees, 

Unchanged by sapient sages. 
And thus Niagara's rock-bound shores 

To all mankind maintain — 
That they themselves, though strong and firm, 

Must yield to Time's domain. 

THE SONS OF OLD NIAGARA 
(Dedicated to the Alumni of Niagara University.) 

BY GREGORY DOYLE, M. D., LL. D. 

A joyous throng 

We'll raise our song 
Of praise on every festal time 

To Him above 

Our God of love 
And of the Universe sublime. 

Let's all rehearse 

In measured verse. 
The glories of our college home; 

By azure flood 

And crowning wood, 
None's fairer 'neath the Heavenly dome. 

Softened thunders 

Of watery wonders 
Like sacred music magnified. 

Of Cherubim 

And Seraphim, 
Swell to us from Niagara's tide. 

The rainbow's sheen, 

So often seen 
Above Niagara's raging flood, 

Ne'er fails to say, 

In peaceful way, 
I am the Promise great and good. 



ADDENDA 271 

Monteagle's brow 

Is brightened now, 
With the Cataract's silv'ry spray; 

Like incense sweet, 

It soars to meet 
The stars that deck the Milky Way. 

Our jubilee * 

Fond memory, 
Recalled the days now passed forever. 

And friendships found 

On Sacred Ground § 
That length of years can ne'er dissever. 

L'ENVOI 
Hurrah for all the good and great; 

Let's all hurrah. 
Whether they're high in church or state 

Their virtues we w^U emulate 
For we are the sons, the loyal sons 

Of Old Niagara. 

* The celebration of the Golden Jubilee of Niagara University was 
held September 26, 1906. This song was written in inemory of that oc- 
casion. 

S A portion of the Campus on the bank of Niagara River, dedicated 
to religious observances. 

ADDRESS AT GOLDEN JUBILEE OF 
"OLD NIAGARA" 

(From the Syracuse Herald. Oct. 28, 1906.) 

At the recent Golden Jubilee of Niagara University 
Dr. Gregory Doyle, who is one of its earliest graduates, 
delivered the following address. The assemblage was 
composed of many dignitaries of the church and alumni 
from all parts of the United States and Canada; about 
five hundred in all. 
Most Reverend Prelates, Reverend Gentlemen and 

Alumni of "Old Niagara :" 

Three years ago, through the influence and courtesy of 
Most Rev. Dominic Reuter, Superior General of the 



272 ADDENDA 

Franciscans, I had the honor and pleasure of being pres- 
ent at the coronation of His HoHness, Pope Pius X. 
There, assembled under the great dome of St. Peter's, 
were representatives from all nations; princes and pre- 
lates, potentates and rulers from every land in Christen- 
dom. It was the grandest and most inspiring sight I 
ever beheld or ever expect to see again. Second only 
to the magnificent concourse at St. Peter's, in my esti- 
mation, is this present assemblage, the ideal of a life- 
time. I see before me the realizations of the lofty am- 
bitions of a Catholic Columbus. In his visions and hopes 
for a new world, he saw the exaltation of man ; the pro- 
gress of the whole human race. 

In this great University, founded on the "Rock of 
Ages," within the thunders of great Niagara, exists a 
seat of learning that to-day celebrates its golden jubilee. 
Here, assembled from every part of the New World are 
princes and prelates of the church, reverend pastors of 
prosperous congregations, alumni representing the 
learned professions, captains of industry, and men promi- 
nent in every walk of life; all eager and proud to honor 
their Alma Mater. 

Nearly fifty years ago I came to Monteagle Heights 
as one of the pioneer students of this grand old institu- 
tion. At that time I little thought that half a century 
hence, I would be present at her golden jubilee, but here 
I am, in propria persona, an humble participator in her 
early struggles and a proud witness of her present tri- 
umphs. I now feel it the greatest honor of my life to be 
called upon to represent my profession on this auspicious 
occasion. 



ADDENDA 273 

Clergymen, lawyers and statesmen, by the nature of 
their calling, are more or less skilled in the art of oratory. 
It is not, however, given the disciples of Aesculapius 
to cultivate the Divine gift of Demosthenes. The elo- 
quent address we have just heard has so impressed me 
that I feel my best efforts may seem feeble by contrast. 
However, in a few brief words, I will try to answer for 
the noble profession of which I have the honor to be a 
member. 

The phenomenal progress of the science of medicine, 
in the last few decades, has far surpassed the fondest 
hopes of our forefathers in the healing art. Tireless 
toilers in scientific investigation have armed the profes- 
sion with sanitary weapons that now stay the ravages of 
disease, formerly considered irresistible. The standard 
of medical education is being constantly elevated. Time- 
tried and ineffectual medicines and modes have given 
place to more profound and satisfactory research. To- 
day we behold chemistry, sometimes called the philosophy 
of fire, culling from the bowels of the earth, the bosom of 
our fair land, the depths of the ocean and the very air it- 
self, their choicest contributions to the armamentarium 
of the physician. Electricity, a modern edition of light- 
ning, now takes its place in effective therapeutics and con- 
servative surgery. The microscope has unfolded to our 
vision the hidden germs of disease, and the misery-mak- 
ing microbe can no longer, with impunity, steal a march 
on human vitals, as he may meet the modern germicide, 
his lethal foe. Hygiene, the fair offspring of the collat- 
eral sciences, steps in and calls a halt on death-dealing 
maladies that nightly stalk the Stygian shores. Whole 
nations are saved by her warning hand, and to-day we 



274 ADDENDA 

can bless the brilliant brains that gave her nourishment. 

The medical profession is no juggernaut of therapeu- 
tic dogmas, it brooks no empiricism, but accepts all that 
is useful and discards the chimerical and worthless. 
Members of the regular profession repudiate the term 
"allopath," bestowed on them by the followers of infinite- 
simals. When well versed in anatomy, pathology, ma- 
teria medica, surgery, etc., they feel they can go forth 
and give battle to the ills that flesh is heir to, more suc- 
cessfully than if tied down by the medical dogmas of any 
one man or set of men. 

The physician's calling often severely taxes his physi- 
cal and mental endurance; his toil is never ended, being 
constantly on duty as the servant of an exacting public. 
He, however, can console himself with the thought that 
it is given him to relieve suffering and often to rescue 
from an untimely grave the victim of disease or accident. 
We are all human, and many often forget the hand that 
helped them in the hour of their direst need. Sometimes 
I am induced to believe there is more truth than poetry 
in the following quaint old stanza: 

"God and the doctor we alike implore 
When danger threatens — never more. 
The danger past, both are alike requited, 
God is forgotten and the doctor slighted." 

Yes, Benevolence and Gratitude seldom walk hand in 
hand, and they scarcely speak as they pass by. How- 
ever, none but the ignorant and vicious will be un- 
grateful. Thank God their kith and kin are not so num- 
erous in this enlightened age. Ignorance is first cousin 
to Cheek ; and that reminds me of the Arizona philosopher 
who, disgusted with the impositions played upon him, 



ADDENDA 275 

laconically declared "this life is but a mammoth proces- 
sion, and Cheek is the drum major." 

I would like to recall the memory of many eminent men 
of the church, and relate their valuable aid in the advance- 
ment of the science of medicine, would time permit. I 
will, however, refer to an instance where one of the most 
valuable remedies was discovered by humble Jesuit mis- 
sionaries. A few centuries ago, when these noble and 
self-sacrificing men were spreading the teachings of the 
gospel among the Indians of South America, they found 
a lake, to which the savages attributed miraculous heal- 
ing powers. The priests, at first, looked upon their oft 
repeated stories of wonderful cures, as among the 
many superstitions so prevalent with the untutored 
savages of that benighted region. One of the missionar- 
ies among them was taken sick with the prevailing fever. 
His companions resolved to test the healing powers of 
the wonderful lake. They did so, and to their utmost 
surprise and gratification, health and strength were 
speedily restored to the invalid. With their character- 
istic energy they, then and there, set about finding the 
true inwardness of the supposed miracle. A systematic 
investigation of these strange waters was at once made. 
They noticed that many trees had from time to time, fal- 
len into the lake. Thinking their bark might have satur- 
ated the waters with medicinal qualities, they procured 
some and made an infusion, which being used, produced 
the same gratifying results. The mystery was solved, 
and the bark was none other than the now far famed 
Peruvian bark, long known as Jesuit's bark. 

This is but one of many remarkable instances where 
the Church has contributed to the bodily, as well as the 



276 ADDENDA 

spiritual betterment of mankind, and will continue to do 
so for all time, as she constantly teaches, by word and ex- 
ample, that ''Mens sana in corpore sano" is the most 
desirable condition for a good, vigorous Christian. 

The following article, discussing the merits of the 
Papel Jubilee of Pius IX., was written over thirty years 
ago by the author. The name of the newspaper is 
slightly changed for obvious reasons. 

"THE MISTAKE OF THE CATHOLICS" 

According to the Weekly Bigot, the Catholics of this 
city made a great mistake in celebrating the Papal Jubi- 
lee. In an article headed as above, it relieves itself in 
this style: 

"Here in Protestant America a religion antagonistic to 
the predominating sentiment of the people, owing allegi- 
ance to a foreign power, and for the most part repre- 
sented by those not born on our shores, is permitted, nay, 
invited, to set up its tabernacles, to make its fasts and its 
feasts, and to parade the evidence of its power and the 
essence of its thought, in our streets." 

Well, did you ever! It is too bad the Bigot did not 
tell us this in time, and then we might have been more 
careful not to get up so successful a demonstration in 
honor of the greatest sovereign on earth, Pius IX. We 
Catholics are "permitted," if you please. Thank you Mr. 
Bigot, for the permission. How benign! How conde- 
scending ! that we are allowed to hold a religious festival 
in "Protestant America," discovered by Catholic Colum- 
bus, and first blessed and evangelized by Catholic priests. 
O, tempora ! O, mores ! 



ADDENDA 277 

Will Protestants ever understand that we Catholics 
owe a spiritual allegiance to Pius IX. No one owes him 
a temporal allegiance except those who live in the country 
rightfully belonging to and constituting the patrimony of 
St. Peter, viz: The Papal States of Italy. If we lived 
there we should look upon him as our temporal Sovereign 
also, but as we live in America, we owe and pay allegiance 
to its government in temporal matters, and to Pius IX. in 
Spiritual matters — only, the Bigot says: "We think 
our Roman Catholic citizens make a mistake in some of 
their utterances, and would point out this mistake for 
their own welfare. Our home resolutions, our mottoes, 
and our speeches seemed to express an unqualified alle- 
giance to the Pope as a temporal sovereign." 

They "seemed to express," etc. Now, it was all a mis- 
take, because it "seemed" to the editor of the Bigot what 
it really was not. Mr. Editor, it would become you to 
take a more unbiased view of things, and when the 
community is right and harmonious on a subject, don't 
try to set them wrong by drawing so strongly on your 
precocious imagination. 

The mottoes and emblems of the jubilee were of the 
most Christian character, savoring not in the least of 
anything pertaining to a temporal kingdom, for Christ 
himself says, "My kingdom is not of this world." 

The jubilee was a grand illustration of the free insti- 
tutions of our country, and the true Catholicity of our 
Church. America, Germany, Ireland, England, Scot- 
land and Italy were fully represented by their sons and 
daughters harmoniously blending in the throng, forget- 
ting all national and temporal strife, intent only on 
thanksgivings and reciprocal congratulations that Pius 



278 ADDENDA 

IX., who guides 200,000,000 Catholics, had seen com- 
pleted the twenty-fifth year of his glorious pontificate. 
The vast assemblage was addressed in three different 
languages, beautifully reminding us of the Apostles 
speaking to the multitude "in divers tongues of the won- 
derful works of God." 

Here is some more Bigot wisdom. He says : "The 
genius of our institutions forbids the union of church and 
State and implies the use of all legitimate means to aid in 
their divorce, everywhere and under all circumstances." 

Be a little consistent if you please; I think the 
strong effort that is now being made, and with success, 
too, of forcing down the throats of Catholic children in 
the public schools a Protestant version of the Bible, looks 
very much like an initial step in adopting a government 
creed, thereby uniting State and church. If the editor of 
the Bigot, who so kindly allowed us to have a procession 
and jubilee, will procure for our children the privilege of 
reading their own Bible in the public schools, all cause 
of complaint on our part will be removed. Do, mister, 
please, and then, like Othello, your occupation will be 
gone, especially as regards Bible reading in the schools. 

This is a free country, and we needn't thank the Bigot 
nor Protestantism for it either, for Lord Baltimore, a 
Catholic, was the first great champion of religious liberty 
in America. 

Theodore Tilton, a leading Protestant, says: "Pro- 
testantism has written no creed, fashioned no cult, framed 
no church, developed no power which could begin to take 
the place which the Catholic church holds in the world 
to-day. Destroy this church, which dates back to the 
days of the Apostles> to which the Fathers belonged, and 



ADDENDA 279 

around which are gathered the most tender and sacred 
associations of Christian history, and Protestanism would 
be involved in the general wreck." 

You are right, Theodore. Take away Catholicity from 
this country and the activity, progress and healthful 
growth of our institutions would dwindle away and be- 
come as sickly as the cold hearted tyrannical government 
of so-called Protestant Sweden. Protestantism is divided 
and sub-divided in everything, save its hostility to the 
Church of God, and in that, every Protestant is united to 
a man. But when they remember that Christ said of his 
Church, "The gates of hell shall not prevail against it," 
they will reflect how idly they spend their days in trying 
to overturn the church of eighteen centuries. 

Since writing the above I have noticed in an article in 
the Bigot of the 24th instant, headed "A Last Word," 
this innocent question: 

"If the issue were raised between your duty as an 
American citizen and your allegiance to the Pope as a 
temporal sovereign, to which would your superior allegi- 
ance be due, America or the Pope ?" 

I cannot do better than to answer him in the words of 
Father Lambert, the Catholic pastor of Waterloo, New 
York: 

"Were the Pope, in spirit of conquest, to send armies 
to our shores. Catholics, shoulder to shoulder with their 
non-Catholic fellow-citizens, would meet them on the 
strand and oppose their landing ; and if driven back, they 
would dispute with powder and sword every inch of 
ground, and the last entrenchments of liberty would be 
their common grave. Catholics have suffered too much 



280 ADDENDA 

not to love liberty and defend it from whatsoever quarter 
it is menaced." 

The Bigot's headlight knows better than ask any such 
question, but at the same time he knows he would not 
be earning his salary were he to let such an occasion pass 
without doing his little towards misrepresenting the 
Catholic church. 

SOME POPULAR ERRORS REGARDING 
INJURIES 
A few days ago I met a woman rushing out of the 
Central Railroad Station in a state of great excite- 
ment. She hurriedly informed a friend whom she 
met that Johnny's leg was not broken but only frac- 
tured. It seems the young man had fallen from one 
of the benches in the waiting room and was severely in- 
jured. A surgeon, who happened to be near, examined 
him and pronounced his leg badly fractured. This cir- 
cumstance vividly illustrates the absolute innocence of 
most people concerning injuries to the bones. Of course, 
the most puerile reader knows that fractured means 
broken. This is only one instance of the popular errors 
the surgeon has to contend with. Many could be cited 
that would provoke the risibility, if not the pity, of a 
careful observer. I have known people to assume the 
responsibility of pronouncing an injured limb unbroken, 
from the fact that the patient could move his fingers and 
toes. When it is known that the bones are the only 
framework of the body, it will be seen how ridiculous 
such statements are. The bones have no more power to 
move the extremities than the caudal extremity has to 
agitate the canine body. This mistake is not only 



P3 



W 



> 
H 

O 
"^ 
H 

hJ 
M 
W 

> 

ft 



t^ 



> 

I— I 
:^ 

^O 

P f^ 
> o 

u _ 

M 

M 
O 

K 
!^ 
N 
O 

r 
r 

M 




ADDENDA 281 

silly, but is often productive of much suffering and even 
lifelong misery. The unfortunate takes it for granted 
that the self-constituted wiseacre knows it all, and abides 
by his decision. No surgeon is called, no sensible advice 
is given, and the poor, deluded one wiggles his fingers 
and toes until he really imagines he has no broken bones. 
Such nonsense would dovetail nicely into the Christian 
Science fad; in fact, it would be an ornament to that 
latest modern delusion. The victim finally comes to the 
stern realization that his limb is really broken, deformed 
and past all help. He then goes to a surgeon who finds 
that it is too late to remedy the neglected fracture, as the 
bones have united in a deformed position, rendering him 
a lifelong cripple. So much for heeding the advice of the 
smart set, who are always so ready to tell all they do not 
know about the case. 

People should know and remember that the exti-^raities 
do not depend on the bones for their power of motion. 
Whole sections of bone may be absent in an arm without 
destroying the power of the hand or its usefulness. I 
have seen cases where large portions of the bony struc- 
ture of the arm, even including the elbow joint, were ab- 
sent without seriously curtailing the usefulness of the 
hand. Many similar cases are reported in the surgical 
history of the War of the Rebellion. Prof. Billroth once 
showed to the Medical Society of Vienna a coachman, 
aged 34 years, who in spite of the entire absence of the 
bone, from the shoulder to the elbow, daily performed the 
difficult duties of his calling. 

An excellent knowledge of anatomy is absolutely es- 
sential for the treatment of fractures, as the origin and 
attachment of muscles must be taken into consideration as 



282 ADDENDA 

well as the proximity and relations of nerves and blood 
vessels to the injured parts. When examining a fracture, 
tentative manipulation should be carefully and diligently 
made until the exact character of the injury is ascer- 
tained ; for if any part of the diagnosis be left to chance 
or guesswork there will certainly be cause for regret. 
All unnecessary suffering should be spared the patient. 
It is not necessary to turn and twist the limb or grind 
the broken bones together, as the abnormal outlines of 
the injured member, will, in most cases, determine the 
seat and nature of the injury. The greatest gentleness 
should be used, as the patient is, at that particular time, 
supersensitive to pain, and rough handling may produce 
irritation of the muscles and nerves and even rupture 
adjacent blood vessels. I remember seeing, in a neigh- 
boring city, a number of physicians trying to differentiate 
between a dislocation of the hip and a possible fracture 
of the thigh bone, which to the surgeon is a very easy 
matter. The patient was lying on a couch, surrounded 
by a throng of solemn-faced, wise-looking "pillslingers ;" 
each in his turn taking a tug and a twist out of the poor 
fellow's leg, in his efforts to find out the trouble. This 
unnecessary and severe handling could have been avoided 
had they recognized in the shortened limb and the everted 
foot a plain case of fracture of the neck of the thigh 
bone. 

Fractures near the joints are, even at the present day, 
often mistaken for sprains or wrenches; especially near 
the wrist or ankle. Before the days of Dr. Colles of 
Dublin, what are now known as Colles fractures, were 
treated as mere sprains, and the deformities resulting 
were very great and as numerous as the cases thus 



ADDENDA 283 

treated. After the investigation of Colles, this form of 
fracture was successfully treated by those who carefully 
studied and followed his methods. 

It is better that a broken bone be reduced or set as soon 
as practicable after the injury, as it is easier to adjust 
the fragments before much swelling occurs. If, however, 
a surgeon cannot be immediately had, the friends should 
place the limb in an easy position and apply warm water 
dressings until the arrival of some one duly qualified to 
take charge of the case. 

An accident generally produces much excitement 
among the neighbors, and perhaps five or six will rush to 
different telephones and hastily summon as many doctors. 
The first one that arrives, whether surgically qualified or 
not, "stakes out the claim," as the miners would say, and 
holds the ground against all comers ; even the family phy- 
sician. 

As the proper treatment of a fracture is to the patient 
a matter of a life-time, he or his friends should calmly, and 
without fear of offending any one, select some person of 
well-known surgical ability, even if a few hours were 
necessary in which to find him, as the patient will not suf- 
fer as seriously by a short or even somewhat tedious de- 
lay as he would at the hands of an unskillful or inex- 
perienced operator. 

To attain the maximum of success the surgeon must 
be fortified with a thorough knowledge of his duties 
and a natural taste or genius for his art. He must be en- 
dowed with the gifts of invention and construction, 
otherwise he will prove a dismal failure, and the results 
of his work will prove a plague to him and a source of 
misery to his patient. Persons who are not gifted with 



284 ADDENDA 

a taste for music or art could not attempt to sing a song 
or paint a picture without incurring the ridicule of their 
neighbors, but possibly might not inflict serious injury 
upon any one. Not so with the clumsy hands and un- 
tutored brain of one who "rushes in where angels fear to 
tread" in his attempt to do the work of the skillful sur- 
geon. Ugly deformities, lifelong misery and expensive 
lawsuits are often the results of such overwhelming con- 
fidence. 

TOO MUCH CUTTING AND SLASHING 

The noble art of surgery has been the means of saving 
many a mangled limb, of correcting unsightly deformities 
and rescuing sufferers from untimely graves. It has ac- 
complished wonders, bordering on the miraculous. In 
honest and skillful hands it is still filling its great mis- 
sion. Within the last decade great progress has been 
made in the healing art. Antiseptics and anaesthetics 
(chloroform, etc.) have made it possible to safely oper- 
ate on organs that heretofore were beyond the reach of 
human aid. The abdominal cavity was almost a regio 
incognita, surgically speaking. The facility with which 
abdominal operations can be made at the present time has 
induced a host of practitioners to "go into" it to such an 
extent that the "wading into" one's vitals is made no 
more of now than the extracting of a troublesome tooth 
formerly was. The appendicitis fad has become so com- 
mon that whenever a person is tackled with an old fash- 
ioned colic, or a slight uneasiness in the lower abdomen, 
he is in imminent danger of being dissected by the amiable 
"specialist" who is hurriedly sent in, by some obliging 
neighbor, for the purpose. It is well, therefore, if he has 



ADDENDA 285 

any of the said uneasiness, not to announce it, if he wishes 
to preserve his anatomy intact, or is in no particular hurry 
to climb the golden stairs. It is a well proven fact that 
more than one-half of the persons who have been oper- 
ated upon for appendicitis would have made much better 
and more rapid recoveries without surgical interference, 
if left to the care of a conservative and skillful medical 
man. It is a deplorable fact that many lives are being 
daily sacrificed on the altar of surgical ambition and the 
god of mammon. The writer knows of several persons, 
now well and hearty, whom the "specialists" solemnly de- 
clared could not exist without an operation. The fe- 
male abdominal cavity and pelvic organs afford a profit- 
able field for the unscrupulous and mercenary "special- 
ist." By unnecessary, and often unskillful surgical inter- 
ference, she is frequently deprived, not only of possible 
motherhood, but has her very life placed in jeopardy; all 
to satisfy the ambition and pockets of the foolhardy "spec- 
ialist." 

When operations for appendicitis prove fatal, which is 
but too often the case, the specialist has ready any num- 
ber of stereotyped excuses and explanations to offer, all 
of which are eloquently misunderstood by the confiding 
relatives and neighbors. They solemnly leave the pres- 
ence of the lifeless victim, with the impression that "all 
was done for him that could be." Yes, he was done for, 
and many will yet suffer the same fate, if the present fad 
for reckless and indiscriminate operations is allowed to 
go unchecked. It is astounding with what sang froid 
the average female will place herself in the hands of any 
tyro that may announce his ability to perform the most 
difficult and dangerous operations known to surgery. 



286 ADDENDA 

As I said above, I am aware that great good has been 
accomplished by skillful surgery and that many lives have 
been saved by the removal of diseased appendices when 
properly done. It is the unnecessary surgical interfer- 
ence that is condemned by every physician and skillful 
surgeon. Some of the "specialists" want to operate on 
everybody who offers the slightest pretext for the ex- 
ercise of their assumed skill. There is more money for 
them in an operation than in medical treatment, and the 
former is frequently and persistently urged. 

In all cases where abdominal or other dangerous opera- 
tions are really necessary, great deliberations should be 
used, and if time would permit, other remedies should 
be faithfully tried before the knife is resorted to. A 
council of experienced physicians and surgeons should 
deliberate on the case, and every reasonable means should 
be tried before the dernier resort is adopted. Human life 
is too precious to be trifled with, or experimented upon. 
A stringent law should be passed, allowing none but men 
of undoubted skill to undertake operations fraught with 
so much danger. If the present mad rush for abdominal 
dissection does not become modified, there is no knowing 
where it will end. We may become a nation of appen- 
dixless men and sterile women. The "specialists" in the 
meantime are raking in the shekels and beautifully feath- 
ering their nests at the expense of an all too confiding 
public. 

A WHISTLING CORPSE 

In the little village of B there lived, many years 

ago, an old gentleman by the name of Plover. He 
was wealthy and spent his declining years in assist- 



ADDENDA 287 

ing and comforting his less fortunate neighbors. In 
person he was somewhat under the medium height, ro- 
tund, ruddy and the very picture of robust heaUh. His 
good nature was in keeping with his general appearance. 
I often remember the luscious harvest apples he so gener 
ously distributed to us as we passed his home on the way 
to school. He would stand at his gate with a basketful 
of the tempting fruit and as he handed out a generous 
supply to each one, his delight seemed to even surpass 
the pleasure of the recipient. 

He lived to a ripe old age and his death was sincerely 
mourned by the many to whom he had been a benefactor 
— in fact, by the whole community. 

Among his particular favorites I had the good fortune 
of being one, and my schoolma^te Nick was another. We 
were often recipients of his generous hospitality and 
would sit with him for hours on his spacious veranda lis- 
tening to interesting stories which he took great pleasure 
in reciting. It was in the summer evenings that we gen- 
erally enjoyed those pleasant pastimes. As I often no- 
ticed the sun setting in the west, young as I was, I 
thought of the declining years of the man before us and 
compared the fading light to the closing days of human 
life. 

A short time after he was claimed by the reaper Death, 
who robbed us of our generous friend. His relatives, 
knowing how acceptable we were to him during life, 
asked us to keep watch over his remains during the last 
night of their sojourn in his former home. We willingly 
accepted the responsibility and began our solemn task 
late in the evening of the third day, which was in early 
June. As we entered the grand old mansion we were 



288 ADDENDA 

awed by the funeral surroundings which met our as- 
tonished gaze on every side. In a large and gloomy par- 
lor the corpse rested in a coffin which was perched on a 
high, old-fashioned table in the middle of the room. In 
those days, some fifty years ago, there was no such thing 
as embalming, and in lieu of that, ice was used to delay 
decomposition of the body. This weird arrangement 
added to the desolation of the surroundings, and as the 
lights were turned down very low to modify the tempera- 
ture, the gloom was almost as complete as the historic 
shades of Avernus. Without much stretch of the im- 
agination, one can readily realize the fearful forebodings 
that took possession of our young hearts as we assumed 
our lonely task of guarding the body of our old friend. 
At least a score of large tubs was placed on the floor 
around the corpse and on the table which held it. In 
those were placed large chunks of ice. The meltings 
from the cubes, dropping into the water with rhythmic, 
tinkling sounds, echoed through the gloom like the weird 
music of a funeral dirge. From time to time a mass of 
ice would loosen from the pyramid by the melting process 
and tumble into the water below with a crash that fairly 
shook the surroundings. Those frequent avalanches 
greatly frightened us and caused us to start in alarm and 
suddenly look around for possible, uncanny apparitions. 
As the night wore on and the want of sleep was get- 
ting the better of us we agreed that one should rest while 
the other kept watch. My friend Nick, being somewhat 
more diplomatic than his partner, succeeded in obtain- 
ing the greater part of the soporific composure. While 
he was enjoying that balmy refreshment I held my lonely 
watch, and to keep awake paced the floor up and down, 



ADDENDA 289 

to and fro ; frequently casting furtive glances at the pale 
and bloated form, perched high in the middle of the 
rooni. The frequent tumblings of ice put my nerves on 
edge and in alarm I frequently aroused my sleeping part- 
ner and asked him to take his turn at the lonely vigil. 
He as often drowsily and modestly declined. 

In sheer desperation and trembling fear I kept up the 
double duty and was consoling myself that much longed- 
for daylight would come in a few short hours, when one 
of the huge tubs fell from the top of the pile with a loud 
crash that shook the very building, and in the midst of 
the confusion the corpse gave forth a loud, shrill whistle 
that fairly paralyzed me with fear and even aroused the 
sleeping Nick. In consternation I shouted that the old 
man was getting up and after us, without waiting for 
further movements of the corpse, we frantically rushed 
from the house. Nick made a running jump through the 
nearest window, taking sash and all with him. A good 
second, I followed him headlong, Down through the 
garden, over flower beds and fences we rushed until we 
felt the distance between us and the lively corpse was 
sufficient to save us from all harm. As we reached the 
parting of the ways, Nick, with a lump in his throat, 
could not say good night and I kept up my constantly in- 
creasing gait until I was safe at home. 

The phenomenon of this unusual occurrence, which 
actually took place in the village indicated above, in June, 
1857, is thus easily explained. In those days the clumsy 
and unscientific precautions for the prevention of decom- 
position and the resulting formation of gases in the 
body were inadequate, and when the bloated corpse was 
violently shaken by the falling tubs of ice, a forcible dis- 



290 ADDENDA 

charge of gas through the puckered and senile mouth 
produced a veritable whistle — loud and long. 

It is not to be wondered at that we boys, then only fif- 
teen years of age, should be frightened out of our wits at 
this unheard-of occurrence. Persons of mature age 
would find it difficult to control themselves under the cir- 
cumstances. 

DR. JAMES J. MORIARTY 
In memory of Rev. James J. Moriarty, D. D., 
former pastor of St. John the Evangelist's Church, 
Syracuse, N. Y., who died in Utica, Dec. 4, 1887. 

Comrades and Friends of the Legion: 

Through the courtesy of Guerdet Council it becomes 
my privilege, this evening, to contribute a few words in 
memory of our honored dead. 

Children of a kind and indulgent father look up to him 
for precept and guidance. They are happy in his pres- 
ence and trust in him as their protection and support, and 
if such children are dutiful they will gladden the heart of 
that parent by filial affection and attachment, that no ex- 
traneous interest can dissever. Comrades, we had such 
a father, he was to us an unerring guide, and pointed out 
the true and only course to temporal and spiritual happi- 
ness. Anxious for our welfare and the good of those 
depending on us, he introduced into our City the "Catho- 
lic Benevolent Legion." He was the spiritual adviser of 
Guerdet Council. I need not tell you that the late Rev. 
Dr. Moriarty is the father referred to. We feel happy 
in the remembrance that, during this good man's sojourn 
in our midst, we had the honor of his friendship, and the 
benefit of his teachings. Our Council to-day, by its pros- 



ADDENDA 291 

parity and magnitude, is but a fulfillment of his prophecy 
and well wishes. Guerdet Council is under a debt of 
gratitude to its founder and will never cease to remember 
and honor his name. 

An honest man is the noblest work of God. Father 
Moriarty was an honest man, therefore he was one of the 
noblest works of God. His soul was wrapped up in the 
duties of his sacred calling. Well and faithfully did he 
perform them. No truerhearted man ever favored the 
City of Syracuse with his presence. Kind to the poor 
and sick alike, he was not swerved from the j>ath of duty 
by any man or combination of men. The sentiment, "Be 
just and fear not," found favor with him. 

Our citizens of all creeds held him in the highest es- 
teem and when it was known that he was to be removed 
from his devoted parishioners, a feeling of gloom and 
sorrow found expression on every side. When asked by 
many citizens to allow a monster petition in behalf of his 
retention here, he would not consent and with his char- 
acteristic modesty said, "I am a Roman Catholic and a 
priest. I have preached obedience and I believe in prac- 
ticing it. I enlisted in the army. I am going to obey my 
superior officers." 

Dr. Moriarty was eminently unselfish. In his zeal for 
Christianity, all worldly desires were overlooked. He 
cared not to accumulate earthly goods for himself or rela- 
tives. His greatest happiness was found in alleviating 
the sufferings of the poor and the care of souls. 

Who, that ever heard him address his congregation, 
will forget the kindness and earnestness with which his 
every word was spoken. Who will forget the eagerness 
with which the nightly increasing throngs poured into 



292 



ADDENDA 



the sacred edifice to profit by his learned discourse? 
Protestants and CathoUcs and men of every creed vied to 
obtain entrance into the over-filled church to hear his 
eloquent and convincing sermons. 

But the time came when in the zenith of his usefulness 
and success he was taken from us, sent to a distant city 
among strangers to begin his work over again, — to be- 
come known and thereby successful in his new field of 
labor. Then and only then it was that many began to 
fully awaken to the loss they had sustained. His absence 
left the feeling as if a great leader on whom depended 
victory had suddenly left us to our own resources. We 
sadly miss his guiding voice and noble presence 
among us. 

Like all great and successful men, Doctor Moriarty had 
enemies as well as friends. He never spoke harshly of 
his traducers, but pitied and prayed for them, and if they 
had any good qualities was sure to let it be known. 
Those who did not admire him were prompted by jeal- 
ously only, as his intellect and scholarly accomplishments 
shone out in comparison, as incandescent electricity to 
the faint glimmerings of those who vilified him. 

His nature was most sensitive and quickly recognized 
a kindness or felt the sting of deceit. 

When Guerdet Council visited him in Utica, his very 
soul was filled with joy, and a new life seemed to be given 
him. From the altar he thanked his old parishioners for 
coming so far and in such numbers to see him, and would 
always remember this signal expression of kindness and 
esteem. 

It seems sad that a nian of such intellectual gifts and 
grand attainments could not longer have remained with 



ADDENDA 293 

us to shed the light of Christianity and true manhood, 
for he was emphatically one of Nature's noblemen. 

His declining days, that should have been comforted 
with the warmth of gratitude, were darkened by unex- 
pected sorrows, for he received rebuffs where he expected 
kindness and to-night, could I bring forth his mantel, I 
might say with Marc Antony, "See what a rent the envi- 
ous Casca made, through this the well beloved Brutus 
stabbed," and truly might he himself have repeated "In- 
gratitude, more strong than traitor's arms, hath quite 
o'ercome me." 

His faith in heavenly happiness, beyond the grave, was 
most sincere. His daily life was consistent with his 
teachings. 

No more shall we hear from his lips the precepts of the 
Redeemer. No more shall his presence encourage us on 
through the struggles of life. All that is mortal of Rev. 
James J. Moriarty rests, in peaceful repose, beneath the 
weeping elms of Calvary. A beautiful monument 
erected by a devoted mother and sorrowing sisters mark 
the hallowed ground. 

We mourn his as dead, only to this world, for in the 
Heavenly hereafter we hope again to meet one who by his 
Christian example has made us feel, that : 

"There is no death, the stars go down 
To rise upon some fairer shore, 

And bright in Heaven's jewelled crown 
They shine for evermore." 



W 61 



^ 79 ^ 



.0 










A 



^ 




v 































<^ r " « >» <i> 









;^ 







V' ^^. 








v" si,::r4.'* <^ A. 




■^ 







4 o^ 





JAN 79 











